I recently changed my camshaft, liners and tappets due to excessive wear thanks to previous owners running the wrong oil.

Before I changed these, there was a ticking sound coming from the tappets when the engine was idling. I was hoping to cure this when the camshaft & tappets were changed but it still does this, not as often but still the odd ticking noise. It doesn't effect performance or fuel economy it's just annoying and something isn't right.

I set up the timing using VCDS so now it's 0.5 degrees and I don't think it's the fuel injectors as it's not a rhythmic ticking, my theory is the oil pressure is not high enough to adjust the hydraulic tappets. Is there an easy way to check the oil pressure, maybe using VCDS?

Any help is appreciated.

I believe it to be a trait of the engine. Relax

Is it worse cold than hot? If so, then you might try an oil with a lower W number, eg 0W40 rather than 10W40.

Is there a 0w-40 oil available in the UK which meets 505.01?

I believe it to be a trait of the engine. Relax

I know it will do no harm, just would like to know what is causing it is all :evil:

Is it worse cold than hot? If so, then you might try an oil with a lower W number, eg 0W40 rather than 10W40.

It's the same whether it's from cold or hot. Might try an engine flush and see if that makes a difference?

Is there a 0w-40 oil available in the UK which meets 505.01?

Dunno; I picked the numbers out of the air to illustrate my point.

In the absence of a 0W-40 oil suitable for the PD engine, would it help if the OP used a spec 507.00 oil since these are 5W-30 viscosity?

... Is there an easy way to check the oil pressure, maybe using VCDS?

I doubt it. The only monitoring of oil pressure is a simple pressure switch, on/off, above/below a threshold value.

Any half-decent garage ought to have the means to do it for you and not charge a fortune though. They'll just unscrew said pressure switch, screw in a gauge and see what the pressure is at various temperatures and rpms. You could buy such a gauge yourself if you really didn't want to go to a garage.

Try flushing it, it may be that an oilway feeding one of the followers is partially blocked rather than a fault with one of the new followers, although followers can get an airlock if they're not completely compressed when first fitted, you'd have to take the followers out again, compress them in a soft-jaw vice then refit them.

Edit: There'll be nothing wrong with your oil pressure, followers don't rely on oil pressure to work as long as there's enough to pump them up initially, they rely on the incompressability of the oil itself.

Edited 4 June, 201313 yr by sepulchrave

There may be nothing wrong with your oil pressure, but I reckon it would be reassuring to you to rule it out by measurement.

You've already invested a fair bit in fixing up this engine, I wouldn't risk it all being for nowt.

The same lack of attention to oil that caused your top end problems may have also caused some bearing wear at the bottom end, which would tend to increase oil flow down there, leaving less available for the top end and less pressure everywhere. You also may be suffering from a partially blocked pick-up strainer in the sump, if oil changes have been badly neglected, and solids have accumulated in there.

If a pressure test isn't completely reassuring, unless it's a real ball-ache on your engine (I dunno), I'd be tempted to drop the sump and check the pick-up visually.

Try flushing it, it may be that an oilway feeding one of the followers is partially blocked rather than a fault with one of the new followers, although followers can get an airlock if they're not completely compressed when first fitted, you'd have to take the followers out again, compress them in a soft-jaw vice then refit them.

Edit: There'll be nothing wrong with your oil pressure, followers don't rely on oil pressure to work as long as there's enough to pump them up initially, they rely on the incompressability of the oil itself.

An engine flush won't do any harm I guess, It's had 3 oil changes in the last 3,000 miles so it's not the oil. An air lock would still be under pressure though wouldn't it, surely not enough to make them bounce around. Thanks for your help.

There may be nothing wrong with your oil pressure, but I reckon it would be reassuring to you to rule it out by measurement.

You've already invested a fair bit in fixing up this engine, I wouldn't risk it all being for nowt.

The same lack of attention to oil that caused your top end problems may have also caused some bearing wear at the bottom end, which would tend to increase oil flow down there, leaving less available for the top end and less pressure everywhere. You also may be suffering from a partially blocked pick-up strainer in the sump, if oil changes have been badly neglected, and solids have accumulated in there.

If a pressure test isn't completely reassuring, unless it's a real ball-ache on your engine (I dunno), I'd be tempted to drop the sump and check the pick-up visually.

I agree, it would be another possible problem off the checklist. The strainer isn't something I'd thought of really, it's no where near of a nightmare job compared to the camshaft change so it's worth half an hour to take it off. Before that though, I'm going to flush it and add a magnetic sump plug to see if that picks up anything. Thanks for your help

In the absence of a 0W-40 oil suitable for the PD engine, would it help if the OP used a spec 507.00 oil since these are 5W-30 viscosity?

Almost certainly; the issue I was addressing is similar to hydraulic tappet pump, and that's best addressed by using lower viscosity oil as a first fix, and high flow tappets if the oil doesn't work.

Have you got a video? Have you compared it to other pd engines? Diesel engine do a lot of 'pinking' which is normal (Google for more info). Are you sure its not just this?

If you're still dubious get the oilways checked out. Was the cam worn on a certain lobe or on all of them?

P.s. I wouldn't change the oil. VAG specify 10w40 for a reason. It's best to find out the underlying cause.

Almost certainly; the issue I was addressing is similar to hydraulic tappet pump, and that's best addressed by using lower viscosity oil as a first fix, and high flow tappets if the oil doesn't work.

I'll give this a look-see and that might narrow it down.

Have you got a video? Have you compared it to other pd engines? Diesel engine do a lot of 'pinking' which is normal (Google for more info). Are you sure its not just this?

If you're still dubious get the oilways checked out. Was the cam worn on a certain lobe or on all of them?

I've got a friend on the forum who has the same engine as mine and there is no ticking from his. I don't want to rule out the injectors completely yet though as some say there can be a ticking from a dirty injector, there's no harm in giving it a direct diesel purge. I'm 100% sure it's not a normal diesel noise, it's a light ticking that can be heard with the bonnet closed and the engine cover on. It's been like it since it was purchased, 1 & 4 on the cam were worn.

I know it seems a bit anal to be going this depth into it but it bugs me not knowing what it is and I don't want it to develop into further problems. Thanks again!

I am watching this post with great interest because I have been seeking info on the same problem on my 1.4 TDI 80 BHP engine, of something 'ticking' for the first 5 minutes until it's warmed up, even more so when it's cold weather.

It's been regularly serviced with the correct grade of Quantum oil purchased from a VW dealer.

DB

Small update:

I've purchased some Liqui Moly Diesel Purge which i'm going to apply after the fuel filter in a closed circuit. If it changes anything I'll let you know.

I am watching this post with great interest because I have been seeking info on the same problem on my 1.4 TDI 80 BHP engine, of something 'ticking' for the first 5 minutes until it's warmed up, even more so when it's cold weather.

Have you given yours an engine flush? Yours sounds oil flow related due to it only happening when the engine is cold.

I was warned off at using an engine flush on a TDI engine, so the answer is no.

DB

I was warned off at using an engine flush on a TDI engine, so the answer is no.

DB

I can't see why, as long as you flush as per instructions. If you're still unhappy about flushing, change the oil and filter, using a cheap oil. Drive 500 miles driving normally. Change oil and filter again, this time using a premium oil.

PROBLEM SOLVED !! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Number 3 injector was playing up and showing an irregular value in VCDS (can't remember what value) so I followed the diesel purge video on Youtube for PD engines, NOT putting it in the fuel tank to dilute but directly into the fuel system. No more ticking! Thanks for all your comments and I'm glad I didn't completely rule out the injectors.

I was warned off at using an engine flush on a TDI engine, so the answer is no.

DB

No harm in giving it an engine flush, it won't do any damage at all.

Having also just watched the video, I am going to give it a go and I have ordered 500ml, thanks for the info.

DB