Shock, Horror!

[MarieK]

Ok, cheers guys.

 

What about the protective foil thingies? Are they on a different part of the car?

[Llanigraham]

The foils are on that bottom corner of the rear doors.

 

Jerry, the strange thing is, it is only on the near-side. The off-side looks pristine (For 67k miles!)

[Auric Goldfinger]

Trains running again Graham?

[BossFox]

One wonders if it's worth getting the edges of the wheel arches wrapped in a clear anti stone chip material, similar to that used for the rear door foils.

[Yety]

The foils are on that bottom corner of the rear doors.

 

Jerry, the strange thing is, it is only on the near-side. The off-side looks pristine (For 67k miles!)

 

I've found over the years that the near side always suffers the most - probably because of the camber road dirt is more dense, the surface is probably rougher etc. Certainly suspension joints wear most on the near side along with tyre wear.

[Llanigraham]

Trains running again Graham?

 

Certainly are, Andy, and I've got freights booked all night!! No Section Z tonight!!

 

One wonders if it's worth getting the edges of the wheel arches wrapped in a clear anti stone chip material, similar to that used for the rear door foils.

 

Exactly what I intend to do. I think 2 metres of 4" helicopter tape should be enough.

 

I've found over the years that the near side always suffers the most - probably because of the camber road dirt is more dense, the surface is probably rougher etc. Certainly suspension joints wear most on the near side along with tyre wear.

 

Agreed. Still bloody annoying though!!

[manxskoda]

Helicopter tape? I had to Google this never heard of it. Turns out it is the same product that I suggested to put on the Yeti doors ( lower portion to stop Stone-chips).Basically, it,s 3M protection film.Good call Graham, but I would get it to a good paint shop first rather than do it myself.

Tony

[MikeWales]

i had a good look at mine, but no sign of wing or door damage, yet!

 

Of course if you hadn't used some of that good Welsh water to wash it, you wouldn't have noticed it. 

[jeep]

I made my own 'foils' really paint protection film, the 3M stuff is expensive but very good, really no cheaper than the Skoda foils, but for the same money you can get a larger sheet of the stuff, I made sill protectors for all four door as well that have kept them pristine for three years now. Of course new cars now come with rear arch film/foils fitted.

I was a little unsure wether I should remove a portion of the 'foils' when fixing the wheel arch trim this weekend, and decided that It would be best to remove the section covered by the trim, so the adhesive was directly onto the car bodywork.

 

Personally I like the look of the trim, makes the car look a little more rugged and matches me with the new beard :-)

[manxskoda]

Graham if you are not keen on the Wheel-arch extensions, why not when paint job has been done.Waxoyl the inner sections of the wheel-arch to add a bit of protection?

Tony

[Llanigraham]

Possibly, but I think that a length of helicopter tape cut to the shape of the wheel arch along the fold and tucked in underneath will be fine.

[Llanigraham]

Reopening.

 

As much as I don't like them, I've just ordered a set of the wheel arch "extensions" to fit to my car. Remembered that a friend is the Parts Manager for another branch of a large group that has a Skoda dealer in their portfolio, so got a nice "trade" discount.

[Yety]

Reopening.

 

As much as I don't like them, I've just ordered a set of the wheel arch "extensions" to fit to my car. Remembered that a friend is the Parts Manager for another branch of a large group that has a Skoda dealer in their portfolio, so got a nice "trade" discount.

 

Good man, you know it makes sense

 

As an aside, I've added some grey closed cell foam to the rear door wheel arch  to meet the existing rubber seal on the wheel arch. It seems to prevent a lot on "stuff" getting past the seal and rubbing on the door paintwork.

I've also noticed that the paint is rubbing off on the lower corners of the front doors where the door paint rubs against a rubber seal - dirt/grit is the problem. A thin whisp of aerosol paint in this weather should restore it back to normal.

My problem might be as a result of travelling forest stages - an occupational hazard

[33q]

Good man, you know it makes sense

 

As an aside, I've added some grey closed cell foam to the rear door wheel arch  to meet the existing rubber seal on the wheel arch. It seems to prevent a lot on "stuff" getting past the seal and rubbing on the door paintwork.

I've also noticed that the paint is rubbing off on the lower corners of the front doors where the door paint rubs against a rubber seal - dirt/grit is the problem. A thin whisp of aerosol paint in this weather should restore it back to normal.

My problem might be as a result of travelling forest stages - an occupational hazard

 

Some pictures would be helpful

 

Nigel

[Brijo]

+1

[manxskoda]

Graham are you fitting them yourself?

Tony

[Llanigraham]

Graham are you fitting them yourself?

Tony

Yes.

Dry run first to check fitting and remove some bits of the foils already fitted, then the plastic will be "cleaned" with a product called Acrysol, which I used to sell, as will the relavant areas of the car, then a narrow strip of double sided tape and a triangular bead * of Tigerseal will be applied to the plastic before sticking it to the car.

 

* You cut the nozzle of the sealer flat then "notch" one side, so that the sealer comes out in a triangle. It is the same way they use to apply the windscreen adhesive.

[jeep]

Yes.

Dry run first to check fitting and remove some bits of the foils already fitted, then the plastic will be "cleaned" with a product called Acrysol, which I used to sell, as will the relavant areas of the car, then a narrow strip of double sided tape and a triangular bead * of Tigerseal will be applied to the plastic before sticking it to the car.

 

* You cut the nozzle of the sealer flat then "notch" one side, so that the sealer comes out in a triangle. It is the same way they use to apply the windscreen adhesive.

 

Yes a dry run on one section is a very good idea, one certainly does not want to do this job more than once, it is a real slow pain removing polyurethane adhesive without doing damage to the paintwork.

 

The top edge of the trim has a lip of about 2mm to retain adhesive so be careful if using double sided tape close to this, as you might not get enough contact pressure on the edge of the tape.

When I've finished the clean up job I will do a test to make sure the adhesive can get a good grip on the plastic trim before I apply it this time. I will use Tigerseal this time and also try it with a polyolefin plastic adhesion promoter primer on the trim as well. I also got myself some high quality panel wipe and degreaser from a body shop for the first stage of the preparation process.

[manxskoda]

Just out interest, as I am thinking of adding the Wheel-arch trims, I have done a bit of research on Bonding Adhesives.Most owners on the Forum strongly recommend Tigerseal and I was going to use said product for fitting the Wheel-arch trims. Tigerseal is a PU adhesive glue, but one that is supposed to be more fit for purpose is a product called Masterseal MS Polymer, which has a 75% better rate of adhesion of plastic to metal, it is supposed to cure a lot quicker as well.It will be interesting to hear how the results of both Grahams and Jeeps exploits go on, keep us posted, the very best of luck to you both.

Tony

[Llanigraham]

Having sold PU adhesive sealers once for a while, I would say they are all much of a muchness. Many seem to advertise better adhesion to different surfaces, but Tigerseal has been tried by several on here, and by many others doing something similar and there have been very few complaints IF the initial cleaning has been done properly.

My other option was going to be Marineflex and this a product that gets good right-ups in the "Tuppaware" boating world.

[Yety]

Two pics of what I was on about.

 

 

Paint now touched up, and the grey tape has black felt tip pen ink on the exposed edge, just in case you happen to look inside the wheel arch with the door shut

[jeep]

The Skoda wheel trim kit is made of polypropylene, a difficult material to bond. PU adhesives like Tigerseal will not make a good bond with it, no mater how well degreased or keyed unless a polyolefin primer is used also. In my test I did with one section of trim I tried 4 alternatives with Tigerseal. The two with the primer worked best, one smooth and the other roughened with coarse emery cloth. But having failed once at this task I'm still not 100% sure that I'm satisfied with the adhesion with a PU adhesive. The primer I used was Masterplas from Wayside Adhesives. I was at first going to try Masterseal PU from the same supplier, but talking to them they recommended Speedbond.
 

 

Masterseal Speedbond is the latest product that Wayside have developed specifically for fixing Bodykits, Spoilers, Roof Scoops, Side Skirts and Bonnet Vents etc. This MS Polymer based adhesive cures rapidly to enable a short work time. In most applications Masterseal will be fully cured within a couple of hours. No primers are required even when bonding directly to glass. All other products available are POLYURETHANE'S. This product when cured has a 75% stronger bond than PU. It dries quicker & sticks stronger. Also its user friendly as it contains no solvents / isosyanates.

 

If you are fitting any type of body kit, this is the strongest product available to you. Remember this is what the professional custom car shops use.

 

So I will see by testing it first, having put so much labour into this project already.

[manxskoda]

Well sourced Jeep, this is the company I rang regarding Masterseal and they recommended Speedbond, as you say Tigerseal is good but it is a PU adhesive and the other two are Polymer adhesive, which seems to make the difference.Are you going to try the Speedbond?Please keep us up to date with your progress.

Tony

[Llanigraham]

Not a complaint against Jeep, but I have a slightly cynical attitude to these sort of adverts, having once sold similar products. It is not helped by comments such as:

 

This product when cured has a 75% stronger bond than PU. It dries quicker & sticks stronger. Also its user friendly as it contains no solvents / isosyanates.

 

75% is three quarters, but three quarters more what? How was it measured? What was being stuck?

Sticks stronger is terrible English!!

Any MS Polymer must contain solvents, otherwise it wouldn't be flexible or be able to be extruded from a tube.

 

A friend has a supply of MarineFlex, and that appears to be strong enough to be used by the RNLI, so I may go down that route.

[jeep]

Well sourced Jeep, this is the company I rang regarding Masterseal and they recommended Speedbond, as you say Tigerseal is good but it is a PU adhesive and the other two are Polymer adhesive, which seems to make the difference.Are you going to try the Speedbond?Please keep us up to date with your progress.

Tony

 

Yes I've ordered some Speedbond. I will test it first, as I'm pretty wary now. I thought I did a good job the first time round, all was fine until my Skoda dealer put it through their car wash when they serviced it, which loosened two bits on the nearside. When I removed the rest it seemed to be held more by suction than adhesion.