Without going in to too much detail at present can I ask how many owners have had issues with the factory fit extended wheel arch kit? i.e. falling off, required refitting and/or replacement?

Many thanks..

I fitted them myself, and without going into too much detail - no problem at all. Just follow the instructions, use the proper stuff and choose the right weather conditions and leave sufficient time as instructed for the adhesive to cure properly

 

They aren't wheel arch extensions, merely covers which protect the exposed paint folded edges. They also provide good protection to supermarket dings.

 

I posted some time ago the individual part numbers for the various parts.

I've only just fitted them so too early to tell. But again was very careful in preparation and fixing in ideal temperature conditions and left the car to cure for 48 hours in garage after fixing outside, as not enough room to work inside without a struggle.

 

Bickerton Skoda offers a discount on these parts: YETI OFF ROAD WHEEL ARCH KIT 2010-2013 Item Number 5L0071069 £184.0. Adhesive HHA381014 (Quantity 3) £37.80. Primer HHA381016 £9.00. Total 230.85 if you are close enough to collect or add another £15.00 for shipping. This saved me about £40.00. I will get round to posting a shot soon.

I could only find this one related thread after a quick search.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/199296-oh-no-plastic-wheel-arch-fallen-off/

Don't have the arch extensions but I do have the roof strip kit fitted originally by the supplying dealer. Since then the supplying dealer has replaced one strip 6 months into ownership as it came away (local dealers claimed it wasn't covered by warranty) and I've just recently had the whole kit replace after the original three strips also started coming away.

 

Interestingly this time I brought the problem to the attention of the dealer in Lincoln, having given up with the local dealers. They where more than happy it was a warranty job, stating dealer fit parts fitted 'before' registration have the same 3 year warranty as the rest of the car from new but fitted 'after' registration then it's two years.

 

 

TP

I could only find this one related thread after a quick search.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/199296-oh-no-plastic-wheel-arch-fallen-off/

If this is the very small front section that fits on the plastic valance panel, then that area is very flexible compared to the metal panels, so it could be a weak spot for adhesion.

Thanks for the replies,

My enquiry was due to having been plagued with problems since mine were fitted.

They were fitted initially at the dealership but on collection of my new (used) vehicle I noticed one of the trim pieces was coming unstuck. a delay of a week saw this refitted only for me to discover another was coming off when I went to collect my vehicle for the second time. This delayed the collection of the vehicle by yet another week. Reasons given.. (1st) Too cold and (2nd) fitter forgot to flatten paintwork and degrease plastics. -- not a good start!

When I finally collected the vehicle the refit was done so badly I had gaps resembling Cheddar Gorge between the arches and the wings. When I brought this to the attention of the Sales manager he simply said that 'they never go on flush!' This didn't sit quite right with me and so I complained to Skoda UK who directed me to a recognised Skoda body shop for them to evaluate. They agreed it was a c**p job and Skoda UK paid for a completely new set to be fitted. Within a week one of these had fallen off. Yet another trip to the body shop and the offending trim piece was refitted. This time it lasted nearly a whole fortnight before coming unstuck again.

Now I only ever wash my car by hand so there's nothing I'm doing that's causing this and it's not just the same trim piece that's becoming unfixed.

All in all this has been going on now since November, two separate garages, (one a dealership, one an official approved body shop) and yet neither appear to successfully get a set to adhere properly or for any length of time. The end result is that I now want them removed neccesitating panels being re painted! (Bl**dy ironic as I had them fitted in the first place to negate car park dinks and trips to the body shop)

It currently sits with Skoda UK awaiting a final decision but even they're completely baffled and can offer no explanation as to why I've had so many issues. In fairness Skoda UK customer services have been brilliant but these 'issues' have marred the ownership of such a great vehicle! :(

I'll keep you posted on developments!

That is really bad. I wonder if people buying the 'Urban' model with factory fitted arch trims have had problems? I don't see why if preparation done with care and temperature within spec. When you think of the stuck on side protectors these stay put, and if anything like the ones I fitted to my wife's Panda they stay put with just automotive double sided tape. As an insurance policy when I recently fitted my trims, as well as the adhesive I used sections of doube sided automotive panel tape at regular intervals. Still time will tell.

KotflI thought this might be of interest. Fitting instructions for a very expensive 3rd party kit. Here double sided tape is used around the outside edges with just blobs of adhesive.

Well to continue this saga I can confirm that the Skoda supplied adhesive sticks brilliantly to the car bodywork but not very well to the plastic arch trims. When I took my Yeti in for service and MOT at a new dealer, I did not realise it would go through a carwash, previous dealer did it by hand. Anyway two parts of the trim had become loose. It should have been car wash safe after 10 days anyway. I made sure I degreased the plastic trim, but I think it needs more than that, a course abrasive to key the inside surface should help. So I have a nice impression of the trim now with inner marking. Anyone got any tips for removing P1 adhesive?

Perhaps you should try some polyolefin primer on the plastic parts? Something like the Loctite 770.

To get the sealer/asdhesive off you are firstly going to need to cut as much as you can off. If you can then get some Wurth Glue Remover liquid this might help removing it. You will need to repolish these

To be quite honest Jeep I would have though you would have peeled the Protective Plastic trim off the wheel-arch before you glued the Plastic wheel arch trim to the Yeti.Plastic to metal seems to work OK but Plastic to Plastic seems a No No.

Tony

To be quite honest Jeep I would have though you would have peeled the Protective Plastic trim off the wheel-arch before you glued the Plastic wheel arch trim to the Yeti.Plastic to metal seems to work OK but Plastic to Plastic seems a No No.

Tony

That is not what I am saying. I did remove part of the 'foils', the adhesive did stick brilliantly to the car and also the remaining edge of the foil. It did not stick very well to the new wheel arch trims in two areas The section mentioned and the front one on the plastic valance, both nearside. I degreased and primed these. The remaining parts of trim still seem to be sound at the moment, but I'm not sure how much I trust that fact, so will keep an eye on them and refix as needed.

To get the sealer/asdhesive off you are firstly going to need to cut as much as you can off. If you can then get some Wurth Glue Remover liquid this might help removing it. You will need to repolish these

Thank you. Yes I suspected it would be a lot more work than applying it in the first place, if only it could have gained the same grip on the plastic trim after degreasing and priming.

What did you use to degrease the plastic?

What did you use to degrease the plastic?

Methylated spirit, denatured alcohol.

Sorry for "reading it wrong", my apologises.You used Tigerseal to adhere the plastic trim pieces to the metal bodywork, I think that although it is well recommended, on the Yeti forum, it makes you wonder if it is any good for that job. ( If i,ve misread your piece on how you did the job and it was not Tigerseal, I apologise)

Tony

Sorry Jeep just read post 10 it was the Skoda adhesive you used, not Tigerseal

Edited 11 July, 201312 yr by manxskoda

sikaflex 221 will stick them no problem. its a marine grade sealant and ive used it to keep a canal boat afloat in a time of need.

Sorry for "reading it wrong", my apologises.You used Tigerseal to adhere the plastic trim pieces to the metal bodywork, I think that although it is well recommended, on the Yeti forum, it makes you wonder if it is any good for that job. ( If i,ve misread your piece on how you did the job and it was not Tigerseal, I apologise)

Tony

Sorry Jeep just read post 10 it was the Skoda adhesive you used, not Tigerseal

No I used the Skoda parts, the P1 adhesive and primer. Might give Tigerseal a go though when I refit as it is a lot less expensive, just trying to track down the polyolefin primer that their technical people mentioned when I asked if I needed a plastic primer for it, although there product pdf does not mention needing it, but I'd sooner be on the safe side. I'm also tempted to try some 3M double sided panel tape instead, the really good stuff does not seem to be very available in the UK, only the US. I don't want to do this more than twice, one too many times so I might just do a test with different products first on just one section to see how difficult or easy it is to remove.

Jeep this is what mine looks like after the third attempt of affixing using the Skoda adhesive and, may I hasten to add Skoda approved fitters.

As previously mentioned the glue adheres to the metal work but not the plastic.

I've given up and mine goes in next week to have them all removed and the panels re finished! Pity as I liked the look of the arches but I'm just fed up with the constant headache!

From experience, from an ex-employment of mine, it looks like the plastic was not "keyed" and still had some of the releasing agent on it. Meths actually isn't a good cleaner in these circumstance, and it really needs a specific cleaner, such as the Wurth product I mentioned earlier, or even their Acrylic solvent.

(The one I sold was called Kent Industries Acrysol, and I've still got some!! Shame they've left the UK market!!)

 

It will be interesting to know how they intend to remove the glue, as it will probably need a mechanical method first, then a solvent.

 

I could do with the two rearmost sections, as in picture 1, to cover the rust spots on my rear wheel arch!! I think it is going to be the only easy way to cure them.

 

Personally I would have put them on with a narrow strip of double-sided tape along the top edge, and then the sealant along the bottom and a wavy line between. That way the top forms an neat edge and holds it on whilst the sealer cures.

From experience, from an ex-employment of mine, it looks like the plastic was not "keyed" and still had some of the releasing agent on it. Meths actually isn't a good cleaner in these circumstance, and it really needs a specific cleaner, such as the Wurth product I mentioned earlier, or even their Acrylic solvent.

(The one I sold was called Kent Industries Acrysol, and I've still got some!! Shame they've left the UK market!!)

 

It will be interesting to know how they intend to remove the glue, as it will probably need a mechanical method first, then a solvent.

 

I could do with the two rearmost sections, as in picture 1, to cover the rust spots on my rear wheel arch!! I think it is going to be the only easy way to cure them.

 

Personally I would have put them on with a narrow strip of double-sided tape along the top edge, and then the sealant along the bottom and a wavy line between. That way the top forms an neat edge and holds it on whilst the sealer cures.

From the research I've done it seems most people cut it off with a sharp blade pressed flat on the paintwork. I'll first try heating it with a hair dryer and using a sharp plastic edge. Glue removal attachments for drills seem to work quite well without damage to paintwork for the remaining film of adhesive.

 

I'm not sure how fussy I need to be with the remaining adhesive though, as I plan to recover the arches, I'll not be beaten on this. I'm very tempted with the double sided route also, seems 3M does the best stuff, but there seems to be counterfeit products around, and I can't find a source for the premium version in the UK, plenty from the States though.

Jeep this is what mine looks like after the third attempt of affixing using the Skoda adhesive and, may I hasten to add Skoda approved fitters.

As previously mentioned the glue adheres to the metal work but not the plastic.

I've given up and mine goes in next week to have them all removed and the panels re finished! Pity as I liked the look of the arches but I'm just fed up with the constant headache!

 

Compared to me they were quite sparing with their application of adhesive! At least from a distance on my car the adhesive matches the shape of the remaining trim, not much consolation when having to remove it though.

From the research I've done it seems most people cut it off with a sharp blade pressed flat on the paintwork. I'll first try heating it with a hair dryer and using a sharp plastic edge. Glue removal attachments for drills seem to work quite well without damage to paintwork for the remaining film of adhesive.

 

I'm not sure how fussy I need to be with the remaining adhesive though, as I plan to recover the arches, I'll not be beaten on this. I'm very tempted with the double sided route also, seems 3M does the best stuff, but there seems to be counterfeit products around, and I can't find a source for the premium version in the UK, plenty from the States though.

Jeep,

I have used badge and trim double sided fixer from halfords for all sorts of stuff like this. It's black, about 10mm wide and about 1mm thick and slightly spongy.

Stick like the proverbial to a blanket.

I've not got the packaging but think this... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_750231_langId_-1_categoryId_255230 ....is it.