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Mk1 VRS 1.9 tdi / Mk2 VRS 1.4 tsi

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Hi all, this is my first post, so be gentle!

After 9 years and 108k miles I have just parted with my silver mk1 vrs that I owned from ex-demo with 6k miles, sad to see it gone as has done me very well for fast, affordable, reliable and comfortable motoring. Now its in with the new in a weeks time a brand new in grey with black roof and wheels mk2 vrs. So I've joined the forum to find out how others are getting on with there mk2 vrs and read up on the odd niggles that come out over time and brush up on cheeky mods that people are doing on them. Now really not sure if I have done the right thing in reading up, as now horrified by the many scary stories of mk2's consuming more oil than my old (oil burner) tdi vrs. Honestly it's put me in two minds as to whether to tell them (local dealer) to shove the deposit and walk away before it's too late or just keep fingers crossed and rest assured that I have the full 3 year warranty to fall back on but there is still the hassle and residual values that seem to be suffering to take into account.

Is there anyone else out there that have owned both mk1 and mk2 vrs as not seemingly any posts on the comparisons (none that I have found anyway) though from two test drives of mk2 I was very impressed! Also anyone have any info/positives to say that the later of mk2 vrs have the problems ironed out or not?!

Welcome to the forum.

The car you have bought will have the CTHE engine which was fitted late 2012.  

What you will read will have been about the CAVE engines, only a very few CTHE engines have had problems.

 

I would suggest that your car will be fine, & the Warranty is there for your protection.

The extra 2 years warranty is good value and worth buying at the time of ordering.

 

You just drive the car, check the oil when you collect it to see where it should be on the dipstick and like any car it can use a little during the first few thousand miles.

Nearly all use none, and have no issues. 

 

Residual values should be fine in 4 years if you have bought a 5 year warranty, the car is cheap in the first place,

so if you are paying £15,000 & it is worth £9,000 in 3 years, or at least £7,000 in 4 years thats better than most cars that have nearly 48% depreciation in 3 years.

If you keep it for 5 years it will have been pretty cheap motoring, and will still be worth money.

If you have kept the last car for 9 years and you keep this one for only half as long, residuals hardly enter into the equation.

 

The car will be discontinued next year and there are less than 2,500 on UK roads now,

there will always be a market for them used.

 

george

Welcome to the forum.

 

Suggest that as it sounds like you are buying a new one it would be very sensible to get the extended 5 year warranty.

 

Obviously it's going to cost more to run, but that shouldn't come as a surprise.

Best to enjoy it.

 

Don't listen to people about residual values because nobody knows where they will be in 3, 4, 5 etc.. years.

It will lose more than the mk1 VRS did, even if you got a good deal on it.  But all cars do now.

As George mentioned, if you keep it as long as the Mk1, then residuals aren't really an issue.  Not much else new for the same bang-per-buck (sorry for the Americanism).

 

If its going to be a problem, it will be within the warranty period.  It would be wise to get the 5 year warranty although if its already built, then you can only get a Skoda UK warranty extension, I believe.  Would be worth it for a private long term buy even so for covering the engine and box if nothing else.

 

Enjoy it!

It would be wise to get the 5 year warranty although if its already built, then you can only get a Skoda UK warranty extension, I believe.  Would be worth it for a private long term buy even so for covering the engine and box if nothing else.

 

The 5 year warranty can be added to the order as long as the car has not been registered, giving 5 years of good cover like you usually get for 3 years.

Ah - my mistake then, BossFox.  I thought it was added as part of the build code (although I've no idea why).  Maybe I'm getting confused with the service interval code!

Ah - my mistake then, BossFox.  I thought it was added as part of the build code (although I've no idea why).  Maybe I'm getting confused with the service interval code!

 

That's what a lot of dealers say, but some members on here have got it added before collecting and registering the car. :)

If the OP has ordered and paid a deposit he should be fine.

Not so sure on the Twincharger costing more to run over the firsat 3 years than the Diesel MK1 cost in its first 3 years

(or even a Fabia mk2 diesel now costs.)

If wanting to be driving a petrol engined car, the 1.4 TSI needs to cost no more in fuel than the 1.2 TSI, only the VED might cost more.

 

Age dependent with the driver, the Insurance can be cheaper on the vRS than other less powerful Fabias. 

VED is not expensive.

Variable Oil change Services can mean 18,000 mile oil changes if thats whats important. but 9,400 Mile Oil changes are not expensive.

They can do an average 45 mpg, even more if being driven for economy,

& if economy is a requirement there is the 1.6 TDI 105ps Manual Fabias or better a Seat with more poke from standard.

 

george

Hi Wrightcnc,

 

Welcome to the forum,  as a new 1.4tsi vRS owner it's pretty understandable if you go through all of the negative reading on here that you'd worry a bit.  If you have a search there are quite a few posts from new members that are really similar to yours.

 

Rest assured there are lots of us on here with cars running issue free and really enjoying them.  As has been said above, there are fewer reported issues on the revised CTHE engine and some on here feel that as a whole the CTHE is a better feeling engine than the CAVE.

 

My car has just had it's 40k service, is running great and will be a keeper for some time to come, it's always suprising me how practical it is and really knows how to make progress.

 

Regarding mods I expect that this will be a little restricted for you providing you want to retain warranty however I do think that the best money to spend is on the handling so if you haven't got the dealer fit Eibach springs ordered I would recommend you ask about them.  I would also take a look at the tyres the car is delivered with, quite a few people have had negative experiences of the factory fitted Dunlops.  Although I never tried these I noticed at my last tyre change what a big difference getting the right tyre on can make. 

 

For future reference there are a good few project threads showing some option for modifying the cars, here's a couple of active ones.  (First ones mine :) )

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/290444-sparklys-mean-green-mk2-vrs/

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/290466-phantom-fabia-ii-vrs-estate/page-2

Yes, I agree - whilst it is wise to bear in mind that the 1.4 twincharger seems to have the potential for some significant oil consumption issues, if you took as gospel all the internet criticism on anything you'd never buy another appliance / gadget / vehicle ever again.

 

They are not ALL affected. I've done over 16k in mine since last November now and can count on one hand the amount of times I've felt the need to put a few 100ml of oil in  between services after checking the dipstick.

Not so sure on the Twincharger costing more to run over the firsat 3 years than the Diesel MK1 cost in its first 3 years

 

Don't agree, but that's probably no surprise George as you are a big mk2 fan.

Mk1 was cheaper to buy, held it's value better and is more economical for the average driver.

A fan of the MK2, but i am a fan of other cars like you are, & i have cars i bought new & still own 10 years later.

 

New Mk1 vRS 10 years ago were £12,000 were they not.

10 years later, £14,000 buys a new Mk2 with a 5 year Warranty, not sure how that works with inflation.

Obviously anyone that bought the £12,000 car and can still get a good price on it, or keeps it has done well.

 

That was then with Mk1's, & this is now talking about Mk2s, there were no Automatic Mk1's or i would have had one..

There were other nippy diesel Autos & i had them instead.

The Skoda Fabia MK1 is a car of its time with a value now.

& as you have done, they can be bought nice now or made nice and are still great value.

 

Running costs are the thing being mentioned now in 2013.

Purchase costs can be included , but then the poster knows that.

 

Plenty of cars 10 years ago that cost £9,000 - £10,000 can still sell today for £2500- 3,000 or more.

Like wise cars that cost £20,000 +10 years ago might also only achieve £3000 today if lucky.

 

That is not running costs though, that is total outlay and cost over a 10 year period.

Costs over 5 years or 10 years even, are VED, Servicing/Oil and filter changes, MOT's, Warranty cost after the original expires if bought, Parts, Fuel, Insurance, Consumables, Tyres etc,

All drivers are liable to those costs, average or not. Unless buying cheap Taxed and Tested vehicles, running and selling or scrapping.

But then i think we all know that already.

 

george

Hello matey, i was like you myself having had my mk1 for 7.5 years with ZERO issues and i made the change to the mk2 vrs which ive now had for 2 years. i will say that ive had as many problems as anyone on here with the mk2 but, and heres the but, it still LOVE this car

Every time i get in it, yes im wondering if the oil light will come on but, its all forgotten when i plant my right foot as its just soooooooo good, i love the DSG too.

I'm actually looking to change it but its got big shoes to fill, most just dont cut it performance wise without spending big bucks so its not an easy task and when you consider what this car costs the oil cost is nothing really and to be honest its only a small amount of us that have this issue, sharkrider on here has had two and never used oil in either so unless your unlucky like me youll have a sharkrider car.

if you read the forums on any car im sure they all have their issues, we generally only report the faults dont we :) so just take it all with a pinch of salt and enjoy the car. its probably the best value small car out there considering what it can do

  • Author

Hi guys, thanks for the warm welcome and reassurance on my new purchase, yes it is a new one (my first ever brand new car) didn't expect so many to come forward, so thanks.

I really hope the oil consumption problems are sorted on the latter CTHE engines and owners that have had the problems have had satisfactory conclusion to all issues. It's right though that bad news bubbles top the top and makes the good reviews hard to find in equal measure. I will mention that my first experience of the mk2 vrs was early this year when I test drove a july 2012 registered car and I was not disappointed, also first experience of the dsg box and loved it!!! When I went back to the dealer three weeks ago to look at the options on new with the zero % offer, I took out a 13 plate and at the time thought, is it my imagination or what but the engine felt much stronger in that than memory of the first car I drove back in March.

My mk1 '04 vrs had a Jabbasport remap, rr'd @ 189bhp, later I fitted the seat 160 intake pipe, Eibach pro spings and dampers all round, polly bushed front bottom arms and always ran Goodyear eagle F1's, brake wise I ended up with standard disc's that I drilled myself at work and brembo oem replacement pads, better than standard without braking the bank but to be honest it was always the worst thing about the car.

The new one has a lot to live up to so hopefully it meets the mark and I can report back raving how good it is to help balance the negative reviews.

Thanks again to all who replied!!!

I have had 2 :) my first one (CAVE engine) used 1 litre in the first 10k, and then nothing at all until 50k, I had a TMC box on it most of that time (200bhp) , and its only issue was a track rod end replaced, that I doubt it reallyu needed...

 

I am now on my second :) (CTHE) check out the build thread here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/290466-phantom-fabia-ii-vrs-estate/

 

It about to have its 10k service, and has used 1 litre in the first 10k (just like my old car) so hopefully it will be oil use free from now on ;)

 

you will find it faster than a mapped mark I out of the box, but a few good mods (like the mark I!) are RARB, I would reccomend H&R the stiffest, and lowering springs, If you get them added on delivery (dealer fit option) they will be covered by your full warrenty ;) (the eibachs, not the rarb! lol)

 

I would reccomend you drive it "normally" from day one, DONT baby it... the stats suggest the cars run in like this use less oil, (mine was red-lined first time at 30 miles, and on the track at 1,000 miles!) but there has been about 20 revisions with the engine code change including breather systems pistons, rings, oil systems ect ect , so it will probably be fine ;) remember most people come to forums to sort a problem..... we did a poll a while back (before the CTHE revision, so JUST CAVE engines) and of the peolple on here 80% had no issues.... 20% may seem alot, but remember a high percentage come to the forum to fix a problem, I'm sure in the real work the % of good cars is even better than that ;)

 

don't worry and enjoy your new car, its AWSOME :) mine may be a keeper now with no mark III vRS, so they are a dying breed ;)

 

Shark.

  • Author

Thanks Shark, that's alot more reassuring than lots of stuff I've read on here. Your estate looks the nuts by the way! Eibach pro springs is the obvious choice but have been reading up to see what else is available these days, other options I found that looks interesting was Eibach sportline springs but not read as far as to whether they cover the mk2 vrs or any cost compared to the pro springs. Will fit myself though as easy enough job to do, so warranty wise will take the risk, so's long as oily bit under the bonnet is still covered. Will try scrub off factory fitted rubber asap and fit Goodyear eagle F1 asymmetric 2 unless someone has good recommendation otherwise or size not available. The other mod I always wanted to do to my mk1 but never got round to doing was braided brake lines, it was the first thing on my list to do in '04 when I got it but at the time no one did a kit, the feel in the brake pedal was always lacking good feedback. Then drive it as was intended, also interested in a track day at some point, never done one before!!

Wrighty

you've come to the right place, we do loads of track days :) the spring action day at castle combe is being listed in the SW meets section, we may do a ring trip next year, and all the rest! lol.... I like the feel of my brakes (your theory is right, as braided hoses should harden it up a bit) but you can actually change the brake feel (assistance) through VCDS) I just find they overheat , which is why I'm having high temp pads on at the service :)

 

my car gets used for work, so not going any lower than it is, but choose your springs as you like :) the standard dampers work well.... I am looking at coilovers next year though ;) (although I would probably run them on the highest settings, the extra damping should be good) I have to try to make mine usable everyday, and good on the track, not easy!

 

as for tyres, mine came with the dunlops, and they RUINED the car... if you get the conti's they will be fine until you need to change, if you get the dunlops, i would suggest new tyres (eagle F1's have good reviews) and sell the dunlops on fleabay ;)

 

keep us updated :)

Get the official skoda springs given the choice (they can fit them at PDI) - not the lowest or stiffest but if fitted before collection are covered by the official warranty.

  • Author

Shark, this is probably a really dumb question but what is VCDS?

The other question I have is about the scrap metal bolted to the rear crash bar, I've read the post of how to remove with the pic's on the blue car step by step and some people getting really etchy about the whole thing, any other good information about on this topic? I seems most odd how a polo gti with same engine and box weighing best part of 30kg heavier can get to 60mph 0.4sec faster than our beloved vrs, well on paper at least.

I think your all right about the Eibach pro springs, I just wanted to exhaust other options before I went down the same road as my old car, the rarb sounds well worth a look! Gonna ring dealer today for update as to when she'll be ready, not heard anything since they took deposit...

VCDS is VAG Com Diagnostic System - most people will be referring to connecting up a laptop to the car OBD port using a VAG Com cable and with software from Rosstech, this gives you access to a lot of the car's settings not accessible through std in car driver interface like the Multifunction Display.

 

On my car for instance I have:

 

Changed the central locking to open all doors on one click (factory setting is single click for drivers side, double click for all)

Added a "peep" noise when I lock unlock

Anti hijack locking - after 5mph car locks automatically

Unlock automatically when the key leaves the ignition

Comfort indicators - small tap gives three flashes

Increased the brake assist - firmer pedal (not sure keeping this)

Decreased steering assist - set to GTI setting - feels weighty, nice

Increased the XDS electronic diff setting to medium from low.

Switched the settings around so the MFD can be set to show a large digital readout of MPH.

 

and a few others I cant remember, a lot of people will pay their dealer to do this but in reality anyone with a cable, laptop and a basic understanding can do all these alterations in 10 minutes.

  • Author

Hi Sparkly, that's great info, thanks! I was reading through your thread last night http://www.briskoda....-green-mk2-vrs/ It was good interesting reading!! completely forgot how I got to reading it all though by the time I chipped in with the thought of braided brake lines, lol.

Yep I've seen that, just been dipping on and off today but will post up a reply.

 

Braided lines might give a bit better feel, but as others will probably say the car does reasonably ok stopping itself, but repeated heavy use of the brakes and you can easily induce fade.

 

I think for now a 312/256mm set up with uprated pads is probably the most likely, although I am eyeing up some larger kits too.

  • Author

Sounds good, will be interesting to see how it improves over standard setup.

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