I've read a lot of bad things about these but this seems a good deal was after some opinion if anybody's is running this. cars stock apart from a remap surely they can't get this wrong

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/370969705665?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

A standard clutch should be able to handle a stage 1 map, try cg motorsports, I have one and it's been perfect so far

Just buy a genuine standard clutch?

Just buy a genuine standard clutch?

Exactly.

 

A standard Sachs DMF, clutch and release bearing can be had from Carparts4less for around £300.

Stay well away from techniclutch, lots of known issues with reconned clutches not holding power that they state eg stage 1/2 struggling with standard power.

Don't buy a techni clutch, I bought a car with one fitted and I managed to break it after 8 miles! The lad who owned the car before me had only ever driven it very carefully to see how the economy was on it. I jumped in and booted it just a few times then bam! Ripped the face off the clutch

Point taken standard clutch it is. I'll check carparts4lesa out

I bought a techniclutch. Its still in the car now :(

Fitted + it wouldnt get in gear at all! Rang them + they said bleed the clutch... its an external slave cylinder so i didnt have to open the clutch fluid to the air at all!

Bled the clutch + still same.

took it back out + the release bearing wasnt touching the right bit of the pressure plate asif the teeth werent sticking out enough in the centre. Rang them again + explained that the pressure plate must have been reconned with slightly too big gap between the plates causing the pressure plate teeth to be too flat (the less meat there is on the clutch pressure plate the higher the teeth go + vice verse). Spoke to an idiot who said they were brand new + not reconned.

could have put my old clutch back in but wanted to get the techniclutch working. So i put it back in.

Ended up taking it for a roadtest + forcing it in gears.. manages to get it in gear but it judders like mad on idle + when setting off. Also crunches into 1st + reverse when warm.

crap clutch from a crap company with crap customer service. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!

So Techniclutch are charging £100 MORE for the same standard setup but they're providing a reconditioned friction plate relined with 'exotic' materials that sound impressive, must be very profitable since a reconditioned friction plate costs less than half a new one.

 

Harder friction materials need a stronger pressure plate so at best the recon. friction plate will slip at the same point as a new standard one. The trouble is old friction plates tend to be slightly warped by heat and will never be quite as good as a new one, not important in a N/A petrol but critical in high-torque turbo applications.

I bought a techniclutch. Its still in the car now :(

Fitted + it wouldnt get in gear at all! Rang them + they said bleed the clutch... its an external slave cylinder so i didnt have to open the clutch fluid to the air at all!

Bled the clutch + still same.

took it back out + the release bearing wasnt touching the right bit of the pressure plate asif the teeth werent sticking out enough in the centre. Rang them again + explained that the pressure plate must have been reconned with slightly too big gap between the plates causing the pressure plate teeth to be too flat (the less meat there is on the clutch pressure plate the higher the teeth go + vice verse). Spoke to an idiot who said they were brand new + not reconned.

could have put my old clutch back in but wanted to get the techniclutch working. So i put it back in.

Ended up taking it for a roadtest + forcing it in gears.. manages to get it in gear but it judders like mad on idle + when setting off. Also crunches into 1st + reverse when warm.

crap clutch from a crap company with crap customer service. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!

 

That's very unfortunate, your problems are more likely to be caused by drag from the warped relined friction plate, if you buy and fit a new friction plate you can probably solve the problem.

 

Edit: They're not teeth they're spring fingers, when the release bearing pushes on them it releases the clamping force pushing the plate against the flywheel, if the friction plate is at all warped the clutch will not release properly giving the symptoms you describe, old friction plates change shape when hot often making the drag worse which is why a new standard Sachs plate might solve your problem.

Edited 27 December, 201312 yr by sepulchrave

Type techni clutch in Google and you'll have the answer

I've always stood by you get what you pay for.

That's very unfortunate, your problems are more likely to be caused by drag from the warped relined friction plate, if you buy and fit a new friction plate you can probably solve the problem.

Edit: They're not teeth they're spring fingers, when the release bearing pushes on them it releases the clamping force pushing the plate against the flywheel, if the friction plate is at all warped the clutch will not release properly giving the symptoms you describe, old friction plates change shape when hot often making the drag worse which is why a new standard Sachs plate might solve your problem.

that is what i was trying to describe

But as said they claim the friction plate is brand new not re-conned. But when i took it back out + compared it to my original clutch friction plate the gap between the 2 friction plates on the Techni clutch was slightly bigger asif it had been re-conned.

the pressure plate is def re-conned + has thicker/ stronger teeth (or spring fingers )

The Techniclutch kit (pressure plate/ friction plate + release bearing) all cost me £120 new so i thought id try it for that price.. but it is utter garbage + i would have been better off leaving my original Sachs clutch in.

i only changed it in preporation for my Hybrid turbo custom map but now i cant map it untill iv sorted the clutch (again!!)

I will be taking my orignal clutch to be re-lined by a decent company + using the Techniclutch pressure plate + hopefully all will be ok after that

Edited 27 December, 201312 yr by mattvrestate

Mines a 5 speed so i use the g60 flywheel vr6 clutch setup. Its smaller than the 6 speed setup but other than that there isnt much difference.

this is the difference in the standard + Techniclutch pressure plate

This is after i fit it the 1st time when it wouldnt get in gear at all. You can see the area where the release bearing has been touching the pressure plate and the small dark patches on the friction plate where it has touched the pressure plate.

Ah, so:

 

-BRAND NEW SACHS DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL (4 YEARS/ 40,000 MILE WARRANTY)

-BRAND NEW SACHS CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE (4 YEARS/ 40,000 MILE WARRANTY)

-BRAND NEW SACHS CLUTCH DRIVEN PLATE RELINED WITH CARBON KEVLAR FRICTION MATERIAL (4 YEARS/ 40,000 MILE WARRANTY)

 

So what you're saying is that the pressure plate has been refaced and has had a replacement diaphragm riveted in and a nice coat of red paint to hide the witness marks on the steel.

What they're saying is they take a brand new Sachs friction plate and remove the nice new Sachs organic friction material to reline it with whatever Chinese rubbish says it has carbon/kevlar in it.

Is the DMF even genuine I wonder or also re-manufactured.

Im using a g60 SMF but that is only because mine is a 5 speed. The flywheel is an original Sachs SMF not lightened etc. I was using it before with my sachs clutch + it was fine. I only removed the clutch because i am aware once mine is remapped with the Hybrid turbo is should be running approx 200-210bhp + 370-390 torque. The Sachs clutch i removed is fine + has plenty of meat left on it. But unfortunatly replacing it with a Sachs clutch wont handle the torque it will produce after the remap.

i dont want a paddle clutch because i use the car daily + its not a race car lol. So im left with buying a re-lined clutch or getting my original clutch re-lined.

i think the fault with the Techni clutch is the friction plate tbh. The release bearing was a standard new Sachs bearing and other than making the pedal stiffer i think the pressure plate is ok.

When i spoke to them they said the friction plate was brand new but didnt mention the pressure plate (which is obviously re-conned) i dont have a problem with re-manufactured as long as its done right. At VW all clutches are return items so when you buy a "new" clutch from VW they are re-manufactured by Sachs but are obviously tested properly unlike Techniclutch :(

Get a sachs oem one mate as said.

Spot on and works spot on.

Ahh I have never personally dabbled with techniclutch, but there are a couple of different solid flywheels for the tdi and they do vary in the install depth of the pressure plate, it could be that your pressure plate and flywheel are incompatible ?

I recently dealt with CG on my paddle clutch for my rally car and that is what they told me when I asked about just buying the pressure plate and friction plate, they did offer to machine my flywheel to suit the clutch so I sent it to them and it came back all nicely machined 1.5 mm deeper where the friction plate sits .

the marks on your pressure plate fingers almost look like the fingers are being depressed past the center and the clutch fork is catching them as it pushes the thrust bearing in more which it would if the flywheel was not deep enough

when it it bolted to the flywheel do the fingers pull themselves flat of start to point inwards?

Bumping this are these the same dodgy ones so best avoided.

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/370969705665?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

Says 480nm!?

How much will an organic one take?

Only looking at 320 odd.

Its sold by techniclutch and has been relined by them

That means its an abomination and should be avoided like the plague

Edited 14 January, 201412 yr by BigJase88

Thanks mate, what a pack of ****ers.

This is after i fit it the 1st time when it wouldnt get in gear at all. You can see the area where the release bearing has been touching the pressure plate and the small dark patches on the friction plate where it has touched the pressure plate.

update on my Techniclutch

had to get towed home last week after i lost drive completely while driving down the road :(

Had a quick look round n the driveshafts are both ok

i suspect the clutch face has torn off.

Im pretty impressed as the clutch has been in for 2 months and less than 1000miles... lol

Im driving my other car atm + not in any rush to sort it.. but when i get chance to rip the box out again i will be sending whatever is left of the clutch back to Techniclutch!!!!

Jesus sorry to hear that they seem a load of **** thanks for the update.

Mine tore off too! Make sure you do some damage to it before, could imagine them receiving your clutch back and then re-facing it haha!

****ers