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My first vrs

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Cold test should be getting near the top Orange Marker when there is 3.6 litres of oil in.

 

Cold dip should be off & above the Area A.

(All the oil is back in the sump, and none is in the Oil Filter Housing or around the Head.)

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  • already smiling and only done 25 miles , getting a few looks because of the "subtle" rallye green

  • Well car is now back home after a slight detour through the Leicestershire countryside , initial impression I'm very impressed by the car , needs better front tyres but I'm guessing the previous owner

  • Have you got full details about its history and if any warranty work has been done?   I don't want to alarm anyone it's just that I've been caught out on the Fabia vRS I've just bought with regard t

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:) already smiling and only done 25 miles , getting a few looks because of the "subtle" rallye green
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Well car is now back home after a slight detour through the Leicestershire countryside , initial impression I'm very impressed by the car , needs better front tyres but I'm guessing the previous owner put the falken tyres on as he was planning on selling , rainsworth skoda in Mansfield are some of the nicest car trade people you are likely to meet and would definetely use them again :)

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Just checked when hot and the oil is spot on where it should be :)

Looks like you got a good one

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Found it really jumpy on some back roads due to torque steer pulling me every which way :)

Mansfield to Birmingham, I would recommend a slight detour over the Cat & Fiddle

 

Used to be a really top road, ruined now by speed cameras and over policing, still a nice way to go from Buxton to Macclesfield or Macclesfield to Buxton on a dry summers day on 2 or 4 wheels :sun:  

Torque steer might be less with different tyres.

 

Did you change or check the tyre pressures they put it out with?

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No that's tomorrow's job to be honest , just wanted to get it back to my house safely today but the steering wasn't helped by it being really greasy , will set them tomorrow , haven't looked in the manual yet but what's the recommended pressure ?

No that's tomorrow's job to be honest , just wanted to get it back to my house safely today but the steering wasn't helped by it being really greasy , will set them tomorrow , haven't looked in the manual yet but what's the recommended pressure ?

36psi front, 35 rear.

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36psi front, 35 rear.

That's seems really high,do people run less than that?

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I can believe 36psi it just seems a lot,I haven't even opened the filler cap yet as the dealer put the first tank of fuel in free of charge :)

I hope you are going to run it on 99 ron,  Tesco Momentum or Shell V Power Nitro.    Did they say they put in Super Unleaded?

 

Hardly matters if the previous owner run with 95 ron, but incase they did, check the Spark Plugs.

All of them,  

second from the left, drivers side.

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Yeah I run my other car on shell v power only unless I can't find any so this will be the same :)

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They just put run of the mill fuel in as the local station to them is esso so don't think they have super unleaded there,I didn't see any if they're was

They run on 95 RON OK, all EU type approved cars have to.

(i would not run a Twincharger on 95 ron, if buying it to enjoy having a Twincharger)

 

But It is an issue that caused the problem with Demonstrators i believe.

 

Private buyers buy a new vRS, run them on Regular or Super, and know how they treat the car.

 

But,

Salespeople get a New vRS Demonstrator and start putting 3,000-4,000 miles on them.  

Put in 95 ron, regular petrol,  never check the oil level, and some drive them like they stole them.

 

Then they go on sale as an Ex Demonstrator, get the Oil Topped up or an Oil Change, Maybe an OIl & Filter done.

 

Some cars are fine, but many of the First few Hundred Demonstrators were not, and the Spark Plug life is much shorter.

 

Just my thoughts on Demonstrators, Salespersons, and not using Super Unleaded,

or Salespeople not reading Owners Manuals closely enough or knowing the product they sell

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Well mine was never used as a demo it was ordered new by the previous I believe,I bought it to be driven as it should so wil be using v power when I top the tank up.

P.s checked the oil this morning and it hasn't budged since yesterday :)

I run 2.5 bar front and back..... an extra 0.2 bar on the winters :)

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Was reading your thread yesterday on the estate vrs , looks really nice , how do the springs compare to standard ones?

basically simple physics... air pressure drops in the cold.. (and the last recomendation..) I dont have extra wear in the centre, so I reccon its fine ;)

 

Winter Air Pressure

Your car is supported by the air pressure inside your tyres, and having the correct air pressure affects vehicle handling and braking. You can’t just set your air pressure and leave it though, it should be regularly checked.

Air contracts in colder weather, so you should check your tyres’ pressures at least every four weeks. For every 10 degrees Fahrenheit the temperature drops, your tyre’s air pressure will drop by about 1 psi.

If you park in an indoor garage, your tyres will also ‘lose’ pressure when you drive out into the cold – remember, you should be checking air pressure when your car tyres are cold/match the outside temperature.

Make sure your valve caps are all in place – if they’re missing, air moisture can freeze in the valve which allows air to escape.

Higher Tyre Pressure on Winter Tyres

Some vehicle manufacturers recommend that you increase your tyre pressure when driving with winter tyres.

One reason for this may be that winter tyres can provide a slightly less responsive drive due to their tread design, deeper tread patterns, and softer rubber compounds. These factors all help keep the tyres more pliable in colder conditions, thus giving them better grip on snow and ice. A slightly higher pressure (3-5 psi) can help increase the stability of the tyre and offset the reduced responsiveness.

Edited by sharkrider

I know all that, i link it plenty.

and if you adjust your pressure according to the ambient pressure on the particular day, and by the weather.

& not say, its November, Winter tyres on & an extra 3 psi in. until March.

But  the weather from Nov-March can be as warm as many days have been this winter.

 

Both high and low pressures can result in tyres overheating, in even cold roads and weathers.

eg.

I could leave here at -1 *oC and 100 miles later it can be 11*oC ambient.

(it is 7*0C here now and sunny, and 20 miles away it was snowing, but not very cold.)

 

39 psi is not really here or there though, but some people take it to far.

I know... the heat generated on the track is rediculous, the tyres (my old maxxis) actually become quite sticky to the touch.... some people will be adjusting the pressures down after a few hot laps... I dont..... I leave them at the 2.5 bar I set at ambient temps...

 

I set the pressures of the winters in the summer when I painted the wheels (20C outside) at 2.7 bar.... so with temps around freezing, I am happy to run like that :)

Edited by sharkrider

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Was looking at track tyres and found the choice of 215s is much better than in 205 , will fit

On standard wheels perfectly fine right?

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