With MKP caps on my old MkII I had a more relaxed, natural sound, clarity, no compression, no sibilance, yet pretty well extension. A totally different sound, honestly.

 

I'm trying to suggest you that even a better loudspeaker filtered with an electrolytic cap won't sound at its best.

Edited 3 September, 20187 yr by Genoa1893

So I finally did the audio change.. Did the following with sound dampening 

 

Helix E62C.2 front components & Helix E 6X.2 speakers rear coaxial with Pioneer DEQ-S1000A DSP which fits to the stock head unit with a coupler that can be sourced locally. The DSP was tuned using a MIC and software and then adjusted via a cable connected iPhone to match the frequencies and create a nice neutral curve. RTA was also done and this has made the car like a mini theatre. 

 

The outcome was brilliant sound and a total change of the overall acoustics of this car. There is a slight lack of bass which can be added later via a mono block and a subwoofer but for now it sounds miles and miles ahead of what the stock sound used to be. The Pioneer DSP is made for Factory Head Units and works brilliantly. The set up is just a day old and will be observing the tone quality after breaking them in for a few weeks on end.. 

 

Some images of the install. Took almost 14 hours to get it installed at a Professional Installer in Mumbai, India.  No amplifiers used for this set up and the sound is brilliant for the set up. 

RS Audio4.HEIC

RS Audio5.HEIC

RS Audio6.HEIC

RS Audio8.HEIC

RS Audio9.HEIC

RS Audio11.HEIC

RS Audio12.HEIC

RS Audio21.HEIC

RS Audio24.HEIC

RS Audio25.HEIC

RS Audio26.HEIC

RS Audio31.HEIC

RS Audio32.HEIC

can you upload the images in a friendly format im very intereseted to see what youve done. 

does anyone have a schematic for the headunit outputs? I have this setup which im not using in my beetle and will be fit it in the car over the winter.
 

i glassed up this sub box for my beetle and will do the same for the octavia it take some planning for the wiring though.

Two Alpine Type-R 12s
four Alpine Type-R 5 1/2 components (up front and rear)
Four Alpine SPX tweeters (separate)
Alpine PDX 1.1000 mono amp (rated to 1240W)
Alpine PDX 4.150 amp (4 channel 600W) 
InPhase 2.4 farad Capacitor

i post a log but it will be a slow one as im busy as heck atm.

Hi. Can you tell me how to embed these photos so they load? Sorry not very active on posts with images on forums. 

you need to change the format to something more web friendly like jpg or png

the links you posted behave like a file and get downloaded.

Understood.. Please find below the images of my install. I hope they show this time as I have converted them to JPEG. 

 

 

Proper Job

damn! that looks quality! and expensive! well done! im guessing the difference is night and day?

 

Just now, JohnnyType2 said:

damn! that looks quality! and expensive! well done! im guessing the difference is night and day?

 

The difference is way beyond night and day hahah. The DSP has made all the difference. Controlling each individual frequency and getting a neutral tone has been the challenge which was only possible due to the mic and the tuning software to configure the frequencies as close to the specific values. The installation took a good 14 hours out of which 8 - 10 hours went only in dampening. All the wiring looms and door motors were removed and put back in such a way that each component has been fitted with the outline cut out so that it does not create a gap and grind the motor or cause any issues in the stock fitment. Even the connectors were not stripped, only soldered onto with quality spade connectors. The speaker cables used also were quality.. This set up for what its worth is much much cheaper than what a full blown set up would be and the sound stage is phenomenal when you are driving the car. Focussed on me and it feels like the artist is sitting in front of me.. Only thing lacking is slight bass which I might end up putting a small mono block and a 10 inch woofer and send all the frequencies to the sub. Whats good about this DSP is that you can save presets and load them if you ever screw up the master file and if another car has the same set up, you can share the files on whatsapp and them can load it on to their DSP and experience a totally different sound stage. The possibilities are endless and can be tuned to whatever your mood is.. all this in barely a few mins of sitting with it with your phone and tuning it in real time. 

 

Breaking in the speakers and will update on the sound quality after a few 100 hours of listening. 

Guys can I ask a simple question, I’m not looking to do a full upgrade even thou the upgrades folks have done look good  & I know you really need an amp or DSP etc for the full benefit but to the point, my drivers side speaker seems to viberate a lot like it’s blown but not fully blown or maybe a tear like air escaping! You notice this when you turn up the volume on the head unit & ive even moved stuff from the drivers side door pocket in case it was that but it ain’t so I’m looking to change the front speakers & maybe tweeters to a simple plug n play sound upgrade, I understand it won’t give me anymore power unless other things are changed or amps are added but don’t want to get to involved in a high cost as the standard sound is ok most of the time for me so basically I’m looking at this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372079632939

 

The eBay seller has quite a few kits for sale for the Octavia 3 model.

 

Just want to know if it is as simple as replace speakers, no cutting of existing wires & using the speaker adaptor plugs that come with this to use the current speaker plug that is on the oem speaker.

 

Or is there a kit like that folks are using that they recommend, Thanks 

Edited 4 October, 20187 yr by BATVANVRS

41 minutes ago, BATVANVRS said:

Guys can I ask a simple question, I’m not looking to do a full upgrade even thou the upgrades folks have done look good  & I know you really need an amp or DSP etc for the full benefit but to the point, my drivers side speaker seems to viberate a lot like it’s blown but not fully blown or maybe a tear like air escaping! You notice this when you turn up the volume on the head unit & ive even moved stuff from the drivers side door pocket in case it was that but it ain’t so I’m looking to change the front speakers & maybe tweeters to a simple plug n play sound upgrade, I understand it won’t give me anymore power unless other things are changed or amps are added but don’t want to get to involved in a high cost as the standard sound is ok most of the time for me so basically I’m looking at this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372079632939

 

The eBay seller has quite a few kits for sale for the Octavia 3 model.

 

Just want to know if it is as simple as replace speakers, no cutting of existing wires & using the speaker adaptor plugs that come with this to use the current speaker plug that is on the oem speaker.

 

Or is there a kit like that folks are using that they recommend, Thanks 

 

When I was going to upgrade, I was only going to change the speakers but before I added the DSP, the sound was not more than 10 - 15% improvement over stock as the HU was still controlling the EQ slope and as and when the levels were raised, the bass would go down to save the speaker. Adding the DSP changed the full sound stage and powered it to 50x4 which is the MOFSET of Pioneer. 

 

However if you want to only replace the speaker, this seems to be good. The Stock speaker is only about 5.8 inch roughly fitted with the frame and then put onto the door that holds 6.5 inch speakers. The seller is selling you dampening mats which is good to put behind the speaker and around the install to give a cleaner sound and not resonate as much. However, a full door dampening is highly recommended as this will definitely help in delivering better sound. You can try this as the clamps seem to fit into the stock sockets on the door and will work. The Sensitivity is also high which is an added bonus since the head units power output is low. The tweeter also looks like it could fit into the stock location giving it a very neat and factory look overall. 

 

Hope this helps. 

“Quality Spade Connectors” no such thing I am afraid.

2 minutes ago, KevC_Derby said:

“Quality Spade Connectors” no such thing I am afraid.

No option but to solder them and use it to save splicing factor wires.. 

Can you share details of who has done the job, how much does it cost and probably some links on how to mimic this solution?

Just now, DjTr1o said:

Can you share details of who has done the job, how much does it cost and probably some links on how to mimic this solution?

Buddy I’m from Mumbai, India. It would only be worthwhile if you were from India to have this install done from the same person. 

4 hours ago, z klasse said:

 

 

The difference is way beyond night and day hahah. The DSP has made all the difference. Controlling each individual frequency and getting a neutral tone has been the challenge which was only possible due to the mic and the tuning software to configure the frequencies as close to the specific values. The installation took a good 14 hours out of which 8 - 10 hours went only in dampening. All the wiring looms and door motors were removed and put back in such a way that each component has been fitted with the outline cut out so that it does not create a gap and grind the motor or cause any issues in the stock fitment. Even the connectors were not stripped, only soldered onto with quality spade connectors. The speaker cables used also were quality.. This set up for what its worth is much much cheaper than what a full blown set up would be and the sound stage is phenomenal when you are driving the car. Focussed on me and it feels like the artist is sitting in front of me.. Only thing lacking is slight bass which I might end up putting a small mono block and a 10 inch woofer and send all the frequencies to the sub. Whats good about this DSP is that you can save presets and load them if you ever screw up the master file and if another car has the same set up, you can share the files on whatsapp and them can load it on to their DSP and experience a totally different sound stage. The possibilities are endless and can be tuned to whatever your mood is.. all this in barely a few mins of sitting with it with your phone and tuning it in real time. 

 

Breaking in the speakers and will update on the sound quality after a few 100 hours of listening. 

Guys. Just made a small video for a demo. Can say that recording this on the iPhone, it’s not as good as how it is in person. But you will get a good idea of the sound. 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, z klasse said:

Guys. Just made a small video for a demo. Can say that recording this on the iPhone, it’s not as good as how it is in person. But you will get a good idea of the sound.

 

It definitely sounds very clear, you can hear quite a lot I presume that what you did before? 

 

I've been looking at the Helix upgrade now  definitely expensive option but suppose you can always do it in stages but can I ask something! Can you still play music via Bluetooth via your'e phone or iPhone? (If your headunit allowed you before) basically you won't lose out on that feature? also any chance you can play something different, something like prodigy firestarter, Breathe or Smack my B***h up  just to get a better general idea, I know the iPhone will probably not pickup on sounds & probably be down-sampled but I would like to hear something with some beat.

 

Obviously no doubt it sounds good & if you want bass then a sub is needed but until you get to that point! do you have no bass going through the 6.5" front door speakers? even a little, did you set that up way with the DSP? The reason why I ask is purely down to the fact that I would like to know if it handles the bass compared to the standard setup! As if you had set it up like the standard speakers would of been like before you changed to the Helix? or did you allow no bass at-all to pass through the Helix 6.5" front door speakers when setting it up with the DSP?

Cheers

 

2 minutes ago, BATVANVRS said:

 

It definitely sounds very clear, you can hear quite a lot I presume that what you did before? 

 

I've been looking at the Helix upgrade now  definitely expensive option but suppose you can always do it in stages but can I ask something! Can you still play music via Bluetooth via your'e phone or iPhone? (If your headunit allowed you before) basically you won't lose out on that feature? also any chance you can play something different, something like prodigy firestarter, Breathe or Smack my B***h up  just to get a better general idea, I know the iPhone will probably not pickup on sounds & probably be down-sampled but I would like to hear something with some beat.

 

Obviously no doubt it sounds good & if you want bass then a sub is needed but until you get to that point! do you have no bass going through the 6.5" front door speakers? even a little, did you set that up way with the DSP? The reason why I ask is purely down to the fact that I would like to know if it handles the bass compared to the standard setup! As if you had set it up like the standard speakers would of been like before you changed to the Helix? or did you allow no bass at-all to pass through the Helix 6.5" front door speakers when setting it up with the DSP?

Cheers

So the bass is not toned down a whole lot but kept down a tad bit less due to the fact that there is no subwoofer. You can’t expect the components to handle all of that. The coaxials may handle that section a bit better. Yes you can play via Bluetooth or method that used to play before. The dsp is just wired inline so your basic HU functions remain the same.  

 

Progressive House and techno can’t be pushed too Loud at this stage due to the break in period. After sometime you can play them Loud but may have to drop the bass setting a little bit to avoid jarring. 40-60% volume right now and this set up is a beauty. Maybe in the future I will go in for a subwoofer and time align that as well and send all frequencies below 80hz to the sub wired with a Mono block like helix or Stetsom to complete the bass aspect of it. 

Yeah my bad  I forgot you was still doing the break in period, no worries mate, appreciate the info  I was checking a lot of the Helix stuff out yesterday , the Director remote, amps & the 12" subs they do, https://www.bassjunkies.com/subwoofers/12.html?brands=84 & the DSP mk2 pro https://www.bassjunkies.com/amplifiers/dsp-processors.html?brands=84

 

The pioneer DSP model you have don't seem to be sold here in the u.k?

 

I think in due course (hopefully) sometime soon, I will just upgrade the front & rear speakers first & then after that I'll think about adding the DSP, amp(s) & sub(s) seeing that it can be a costly upgrade but no doubt worth it in every way especially if you love a bit of sounds 

Edited 6 October, 20187 yr by BATVANVRS

Just now, BATVANVRS said:

Yeah my bad  I forgot you was still doing the break in period, no worries mate, appreciate the info  I was checking a lot of the Helix stuff out yesterday , the Director remote, amps & the 12" subs they do, https://www.bassjunkies.com/subwoofers/12.html?brands=84 & the DSP mk2 pro https://www.bassjunkies.com/amplifiers/dsp-processors.html?brands=84

 

The pioneer DSP model you have don't seem to be sold here in the u.k? 

 

The Pioneer DSP is just a new launch and specifically made for factory head units. You get a direct plug and play adapter which you need to match with the car specific one. This particular DSP is Made in Tokyo and I think this is their initial test one to see the response. It’s available freely in India and is doing really well. You can read more about it on the Pioneer India website https://pioneer-india.in/buy/car-entertainment-car-amplifiers-sound-processor/deq-s1000a/

something similar exists from mini dsp - there's the C-DSP6x8 with line level input for head units. You can also RTA that one with the help of REW. Multiple inputs are possible with different configs using different inputs.

 

 - Bret

6 hours ago, brettikivi said:

something similar exists from mini dsp - there's the C-DSP6x8 with line level input for head units. You can also RTA that one with the help of REW. Multiple inputs are possible with different configs using different inputs.

 

 - Bret

 

Could be but I wasn’t putting an amplifier and from what I believe many of these dsp require powered amplifiers to run well. The advantage of this dsp is the MOFSET 50x4 inbuilt power amp. 

I've been watching '5staraudio' on YouTube since you posted this to get some ideas, they use a similar DSP with auto EQ and then fine tune in a similar way. They usually fit a sub as well. they go through everything and how the various components work.

Im planning to go down this route but with a 10" sub as there's a guy in Poland? or somewhere does nice 10" boxes that fit nicely in the rear stow area on the Octavia. The only issue is that i can cant see any high/low outputs on the MIB2 to take the sub feed from on the head unit which is a shame. It would be interesting to see how they do it for the canton sub? im guessing they combine both front and rear outputs as you wouldn't hear the sub if you used the fader? 

I have tons of questions but its tricky to find the answers.

 

I have two 12" type-Rs to shift first.

2 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

I've been watching '5staraudio' on YouTube since you posted this to get some ideas, they use a similar DSP with auto EQ and then fine tune in a similar way. They usually fit a sub as well. they go through everything and how the various components work.

Im planning to go down this route but with a 10" sub as there's a guy in Poland? or somewhere does nice 10" boxes that fit nicely in the rear stow area on the Octavia. The only issue is that i can cant see any high/low outputs on the MIB2 to take the sub feed from on the head unit which is a shame. It would be interesting to see how they do it for the canton sub? im guessing they combine both front and rear outputs as you wouldn't hear the sub if you used the fader? 

I have tons of questions but its tricky to find the answers.

 

I have two 12" type-Rs to shift first.

 

I will be adding a sub after a while if I feel the lack of bass. I don’t want to sacrifice boot space but let’s see what I can do. For now the sound is fantastic. I hope you have seen the demo that I made. Captured on an iPhone so the capture may not be the best but in real the sound is bloody brilliant for a setup without an amplifier.