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Upgrading car speakers after collecting new car...

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4 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

I've been watching '5staraudio' on YouTube since you posted this to get some ideas, they use a similar DSP with auto EQ and then fine tune in a similar way. They usually fit a sub as well. they go through everything and how the various components work.

Im planning to go down this route but with a 10" sub as there's a guy in Poland? or somewhere does nice 10" boxes that fit nicely in the rear stow area on the Octavia. The only issue is that i can cant see any high/low outputs on the MIB2 to take the sub feed from on the head unit which is a shame. It would be interesting to see how they do it for the canton sub? im guessing they combine both front and rear outputs as you wouldn't hear the sub if you used the fader? 

I have tons of questions but its tricky to find the answers.

 

I have two 12" type-Rs to shift first.

 

 

I think if you add the DSP and then take the sub output front there, you will get to control the sub frequencies and RTA for the sub as well and will be super in comparison from just taking it from the head unit. 

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Just now, z klasse said:

 

I will be adding a sub after a while if I feel the lack of bass. I don’t want to sacrifice boot space but let’s see what I can do. For now the sound is fantastic. I hope you have seen the demo that I made. Captured on an iPhone so the capture may not be the best but in real the sound is bloody brilliant for a setup without an amplifier. 

 

yes seen it and it sounds really balanced, the mid range sounds great due to the speaker upgrade,

 

you dont need to lose too much space....

SKODA-OCTAVIA-3-SEDAN-2012-gt-SUBWOOFER-BOX-ENCLOSURE-SUBWOOFERS-SELECT-NEW-MDF

1 minute ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

yes seen it and it sounds really balanced, the mid range sounds great due to the speaker upgrade,

 

you dont need to lose too much space....

SKODA-OCTAVIA-3-SEDAN-2012-gt-SUBWOOFER-BOX-ENCLOSURE-SUBWOOFERS-SELECT-NEW-MDF

 

 

This is what my installer said he can make and fit the monoblock as well. 

is there a speaker in the centre console? center of the dash? always wondered what it was?

2 minutes ago, z klasse said:

 

 

This is what my installer said he can make and fit the monoblock as well. 


where would he put the amp? ive got a spare so cant put it there..

can you record something with heavy bass just as a comparison?

Edited by JohnnyType2

Just now, JohnnyType2 said:

is there a speaker in the centre console? center of the dash? always wondered what it was?

 

So once the RTA is done, the sound does feel like it’s coming from the Center grill but I am not sure what is there. In Indian cars there is no speaker out there 

Just now, JohnnyType2 said:


where would he put the amp? ive got a spare so cant put it there..

So the amp he suggested is really small. Though it packs a punch. Maybe along side the sub or inside. 

 

See this is the amp. It literally fits in the palm of your hand. 

http://www.stetsom.com.br/en/produto/ir-280-1/

 

 

46801CFB-428B-49F9-A1C1-67A6E44EF574.png

i have a type X 10" and an alpine PDX 1.1000 for such a powerful sub its really compact. i need 900w for the sub alone

Alpine PDX-1.1000 Front

and 

Alpine X-W10D4 Front and rear view of this Type-X sub

Edited by JohnnyType2

4 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

is there a speaker in the centre console? center of the dash? always wondered what it was?

 

Yes there is a speaker I believe in the centre console dashboard area but I was under the impression that was for the sound generator? 

12 minutes ago, BATVANVRS said:

 

Yes there is a speaker I believe in the centre console dashboard area but I was under the impression that was for the sound generator? 

 

could be that sound traktor 

14 minutes ago, z klasse said:

 

could be that sound traktor 

 I believe so :giggle: But not 100% sure, I think I have seen post's previously saying that is the case (something in the back of my head) telling me this also :wondering:

50w x 4 is going to be hard without additional transformation for higher voltages, and then you're looking at additional wiring (do the maths: 90% efficiency class D would imply 200W out and 222W in, which is around 20A at 12V). The unit has a 10A fuse... it's also around €170 here, which is a bit of a bargain. Time alignment and custom EQ / XO is a good starting point, but biquads is why you buy a MiniDSP. 

 

There are quite a few ISO amps out there, from Gladen / Mosconi, I-sotec, and Ground Zero amongst others; then there's teh small stuff from Gladen, Kenwood, Arc Audio, and others. There's quite a few good options for doing this. 

 

Personally, if I do this in the Octy, it's because I want deeper bass, and then it will be a correctly-sized (sealed) box for a 10" or 12". Shouldn't need more than 300W to keep up with 20W up front. SQL woofers aren't necessarily the easiest to keep stealth... IIRC the Canton system uses a 6" sub driver with around 200W. Kodiaq Canton system contains a center speaker, so I suspect the Octy one will, too.

 

 - Bret

1 minute ago, brettikivi said:

50w x 4 is going to be hard without additional transformation for higher voltages, and then you're looking at additional wiring (do the maths: 90% efficiency class D would imply 200W out and 222W in, which is around 20A at 12V).

That's assuming it's specified as 50W RMS continuous on all 4 channels simultaneously.

 

Car audio systems (and other) often specify Music Power which is the PEAK power with only ONE channel driven, in that case the current consumed will be significantly under 10A with a Class D amplifier.

Whatever the DSP puts out, I am more than happy with the sound and the tone. 

 

My car is more of a performance oriented one. A list of mods as below: 

 

BBS 17 inch 7.5J ET 45 Himalaya Grey Rims 112x5 with Michelin 225/45/17 Pilot Sport 4

APR Intake Carbon Fiber

APR Stage 2 Intake Pipe Carbon Fiber

APR Remap Stage 2

APR DSG Stage 2 Software Upgrade

APR Turbo Inlet Pipe

APR Downpipe

APR Silicone Boost Hose Kit

APR Intercooler

APR Muffler Delete

APR Oil Catch Can

APR Rear Sway Bar 25.4mm

034 Rear Sway Bar Spherical End Links

Supersprint Non Resonated Cat Back Exhaust

Ferodo Pads Front (race)

Defi Boost Gauge

Forge Boost Tap

Forge Dog Bone Insert

Maxton Rear Diffuser

Rear Spoiler Ribbed Add On

ECS Tuning Front Steel Braided Brake Lines

Extended Paddle Shifters Aluminium

Helix E62C.2 & Helix E 6X.2 speakers with Pioneer DEQ-S1000A DSP

3 hours ago, BATVANVRS said:

 

Yes there is a speaker I believe in the centre console dashboard area but I was under the impression that was for the sound generator? 

 

No. The centre dashboard speaker is a proper speaker, but only if you have Canton, otherwise the grille is there but no speaker underneath.

 

The sound generator is not mounted inside the cabin, it's underneath the plastic cover below the wipers and the windscreen.

2 minutes ago, ahenners said:

 

No. The centre dashboard speaker is a proper speaker, but only if you have Canton, otherwise the grille is there but no speaker underneath.

 

The sound generator is not mounted inside the cabin, it's underneath the plastic cover below the wipers and the windscreen.

 

Any idea how much space out there? Always wondered if a small woofer could fit there. 

37 minutes ago, z klasse said:

 

Any idea how much space out there? Always wondered if a small woofer could fit there. 

 

This is the speaker that is fitted with Canton, not sure on exact measurement as unfortunately it doesn't seem to be documented anywhere. It is very small though.

 

https://rar-carparts.com/en/parts/electrical/radio-navigation-telephone/speaker/2626/lautsprecher-armatur-skoda-octavia-iii-typ-5e

1 hour ago, z klasse said:

Whatever the DSP puts out, I am more than happy with the sound and the tone. 

 

My car is more of a performance oriented one. A list of mods as below: 

 

BBS 17 inch 7.5J ET 45 Himalaya Grey Rims 112x5 with Michelin 225/45/17 Pilot Sport 4

APR Intake Carbon Fiber

APR Stage 2 Intake Pipe Carbon Fiber

APR Remap Stage 2

APR DSG Stage 2 Software Upgrade

APR Turbo Inlet Pipe

APR Downpipe

APR Silicone Boost Hose Kit

APR Intercooler

APR Muffler Delete

APR Oil Catch Can

APR Rear Sway Bar 25.4mm

034 Rear Sway Bar Spherical End Links

Supersprint Non Resonated Cat Back Exhaust

Ferodo Pads Front (race)

Defi Boost Gauge

Forge Boost Tap

Forge Dog Bone Insert

Maxton Rear Diffuser

Rear Spoiler Ribbed Add On

ECS Tuning Front Steel Braided Brake Lines

Extended Paddle Shifters Aluminium

Helix E62C.2 & Helix E 6X.2 speakers with Pioneer DEQ-S1000A DSP

 

What Horns have you upgraded to? I know the Mumbai to Pune Expressway very well!

None lol. The stock horn is good enough for any of the highways. 

3" can still give great bass with the correct enclosure... 

 

as far as the 50W is concerned, yes, it's a marketing number. It's a good start, though I figure it's likely to be 15W RMS per channel continuous at 13.8V into 4 Ohm with <1% THD. That's a very nice start and as a decent one-box solution, at this price, it's hard to beat. If the OP is happy with the tone and sound, good. WIth the combo of that - reasonable discrete amplification, a decent install with some sound damping and some real tuning, I'm not surprised that it sounds an awful lot better than what was there before.

 

 - Bret

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 hours ago, brettikivi said:

50w x 4 is going to be hard without additional transformation for higher voltages, and then you're looking at additional wiring (do the maths: 90% efficiency class D would imply 200W out and 222W in, which is around 20A at 12V). The unit has a 10A fuse... it's also around €170 here, which is a bit of a bargain. Time alignment and custom EQ / XO is a good starting point, but biquads is why you buy a MiniDSP. 

 

There are quite a few ISO amps out there, from Gladen / Mosconi, I-sotec, and Ground Zero amongst others; then there's teh small stuff from Gladen, Kenwood, Arc Audio, and others. There's quite a few good options for doing this. 

 

Personally, if I do this in the Octy, it's because I want deeper bass, and then it will be a correctly-sized (sealed) box for a 10" or 12". Shouldn't need more than 300W to keep up with 20W up front. SQL woofers aren't necessarily the easiest to keep stealth... IIRC the Canton system uses a 6" sub driver with around 200W. Kodiaq Canton system contains a center speaker, so I suspect the Octy one will, too.

 

 - Bret

 

in the UK this is what we call ****ing on someone chips 

For the kind of sound that this small DSP gives, and the features and the price range, its hard to beat. Hardly 100GBP for this DSP. Most high end ones will cost 5 times over.

15 minutes ago, z klasse said:

For the kind of sound that this small DSP gives, and the features and the price range, its hard to beat. Hardly 100GBP for this DSP. Most high end ones will cost 5 times over.


ive just purchased a LC2i to split the signal from the rear speakers and send to the sub. i've also got an octavia parrot blue tooth harness which should allow the plumbing of the speakers without cutting into the original harness.

 

I will definitely look into the DSP you have but i have a 4 way digital amp for the speakers and a mono block for the sub so it might not suit my needs as i don't need the built in amplification to power the speakers. Im trying to figure out how to power an extra set of tweeters in the rear. so it would be 4 x 6" type-R mids, 4 x type-X tweeters and a 10" type X sub. possibly a DSP or some active crossovers and then use LC2i for the sub. 

 

I love the idea of being able to EQ auto tune with the DSP, seems like a no brainer.

 

Has anyone figured out what the digital output is on the MIB2 head unit? i believe canton and dynaudio on some of the aftermarket high end systems in audi and VW use it? dynaudio do an optical DSP which hopefully would hook into the MIB at the back.

I'm waiting on a new screen then getting it unlocked. and sent to pawel ill be a few week away from doing anything and i have to shift a set of 12" type Rs to fund the purchase of the 10". 

5 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:


 

Has anyone figured out what the digital output is on the MIB2 head unit? i believe canton and dynaudio on some of the aftermarket high end systems in audi and VW use it? dynaudio do an optical DSP which hopefully would hook into the MIB at the back.
 

 

 

MQB platform Dynaudio in the MK7 Golf is optical MOST bus from the head unit to the amp under the passenger seat..& HU to screen..I know I have....!!

 

One reason I ticked it ..saves having to mess around with the car......like I had on my previous cars...& most I used Pioneer HU & speakers...

 

The other good thing about the Dynaudio is that we get the subwoofer which sits in the spare wheel inside the spare wheel well...so best place really...

On 07/10/2018 at 19:05, brettikivi said:

50w x 4 is going to be hard without additional transformation for higher voltages, and then you're looking at additional wiring (do the maths: 90% efficiency class D would imply 200W out and 222W in, which is around 20A at 12V). The unit has a 10A fuse... it's also around €170 here, which is a bit of a bargain. Time alignment and custom EQ / XO is a good starting point, but biquads is why you buy a MiniDSP. 

 

There are quite a few ISO amps out there, from Gladen / Mosconi, I-sotec, and Ground Zero amongst others; then there's teh small stuff from Gladen, Kenwood, Arc Audio, and others. There's quite a few good options for doing this. 

 

Personally, if I do this in the Octy, it's because I want deeper bass, and then it will be a correctly-sized (sealed) box for a 10" or 12". Shouldn't need more than 300W to keep up with 20W up front. SQL woofers aren't necessarily the easiest to keep stealth... IIRC the Canton system uses a 6" sub driver with around 200W. Kodiaq Canton system contains a center speaker, so I suspect the Octy one will, too.

 

 - Bret

 

Didn't know you are a audio buff also ;)

...you have to hear my Seat stock sound when we meet - it sounds pretty decent for a factory system.

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