6 hours ago, fabdavrav said:

 

 

MQB platform Dynaudio in the MK7 Golf is optical MOST bus from the head unit to the amp under the passenger seat..& HU to screen..I know I have....!!

 

One reason I ticked it ..saves having to mess around with the car......like I had on my previous cars...& most I used Pioneer HU & speakers...

 

The other good thing about the Dynaudio is that we get the subwoofer which sits in the spare wheel inside the spare wheel well...so best place really...

 

great thanks for the info... i wonder would the optical out be compatible with any other aftermarket DSP it would save a stack of time just routing one cable for the outputs.

I'd be wanting to put the DSP behind the glovebox anyway. Signal to amps from there. If you're only running passive (so one amp channel per door plus sub(s)), then that's a single quad RCA back to the amps. If you can fit those under the seat, then it's a nice short run, also of power cable.

 

   - Bret

Just now, brettikivi said:

I'd be wanting to put the DSP behind the glovebox anyway. Signal to amps from there. If you're only running passive (so one amp channel per door plus sub(s)), then that's a single quad RCA back to the amps. If you can fit those under the seat, then it's a nice short run, also of power cable.

 

   - Bret

I feel if I go with the Small Stetsom Monoblock, it could fit somewhere snug even behind the glove box.. The DSP is not that large. The DSP fits perfectly and if this fits there as well, then the power cable etc will be quite short and only the speaker wire going to the boot for the sub. But to be honest I dont think Im going to go for the sub as the sound as it is now is really really good. 

10 hours ago, Jaco2k said:

Didn't know you are a audio buff also

...you have to hear my Seat stock sound when we meet - it sounds pretty decent for a factory system.

I have a pair of these in my office: link. Not as pretty, with curly birch veneer fronts, they're from 15mm ply and weigh 40kg each. The bottom lower third of each floorstanding cab is stones, sand, and glue... the tweets resolve and image *really* nicely. Don't really need a sub, either, but because the positioning is too close to the back wall, bass is mildly lumpy. For a €400 set of speakers (and a hell of a lot of hours), they're really rather good. I find the standard Octavia setup OK, it's surprisingly good, and it's another reason I wouldn't want to switch the head unit out. It can get screechy at higher volumes and deep bass is limited by 6" drivers. That's all physics, but it does resolve nicely - the Nokia 8 via BT is really quite good, even if SD is better - and the imaging is good. I'd still like better.. time and effort come into it. There's also an AG06 on my desk at work and another one at home.. at home with a PR35 and a VL3

 

I'm of the opinion that @z klasse has done it the right way around here; damping and decent comps with discrete amplification and DSP is really the way to go.

re: sub or not: at speed, tyre roar is around 125Hz, if I remember correctly. Correcting for this is already integrated into the head unit, but if you're listening at reasonable volumes you might begin to push the drivers too hard. If you have the space and budget, even for a 200W / 10" capable *in a good box*, then I'd seriously consider it. The effortlessness a sub brings to bass is glorious.

It also depends a lot on what you're listening to and what you're used to - I use headphones a lot and got into quality music a while back - some things are really nicely recorded but others are harsh. Some tunes have beautifully deep bass, others limit it to sound good on boomboxes... if you don't feel you're missing out, you're good. 

 

 - Bret

1 minute ago, brettikivi said:

I have a pair of these in my office: link. Not as pretty, with curly birch veneer fronts, they're from 15mm ply and weigh 40kg each. The bottom lower third of each floorstanding cab is stones, sand, and glue... the tweets resolve and image *really* nicely. Don't really need a sub, either, but because the positioning is too close to the back wall, bass is mildly lumpy. For a €400 set of speakers (and a hell of a lot of hours), they're really rather good. I find the standard Octavia setup OK, it's surprisingly good, and it's another reason I wouldn't want to switch the head unit out. It can get screechy at higher volumes and deep bass is limited by 6" drivers. That's all physics, but it does resolve nicely - the Nokia 8 via BT is really quite good, even if SD is better - and the imaging is good. I'd still like better.. time and effort come into it. There's also an AG06 on my desk at work and another one at home.. at home with a PR35 and a VL3

 

I'm of the opinion that @z klasse has done it the right way around here; damping and decent comps with discrete amplification and DSP is really the way to go.

re: sub or not: at speed, tyre roar is around 125Hz, if I remember correctly. Correcting for this is already integrated into the head unit, but if you're listening at reasonable volumes you might begin to push the drivers too hard. If you have the space and budget, even for a 200W / 10" capable *in a good box*, then I'd seriously consider it. The effortlessness a sub brings to bass is glorious.

It also depends a lot on what you're listening to and what you're used to - I use headphones a lot and got into quality music a while back - some things are really nicely recorded but others are harsh. Some tunes have beautifully deep bass, others limit it to sound good on boomboxes... if you don't feel you're missing out, you're good. 

 

 - Bret

So im quite an audio freak.. I have a full Quad set up at home with 25L towers powered by a Quad QSP amp and Elite Quad Pre Amp with sound absorbing material on the opposite walls and ceilings which is put onto a grid that has rock wool inside. even my windows are double glass with a thick curtain in the front and my room door is 3.5 inches which has rock wool and synth (i think thats what its called) and the should is brilliant.. For my personal use I have Shure 535 with a FIIO E12 amplifier etc. So I am quite finicky when it comes to audio.

 

This set up of mine is really clean and the sound is really warm, but yes there is a lack of bass. For the woofer I might go with one of these amps with this woofer in the boot on the left hand side cavity enclosure.

 

Helix D - One MonoBlock: https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/d-one

Stetsom Iron Line 280.1 Mono Block : http://www.stetsom.com.br/en/produto/ir-280-1/

The woofer suggested to me is Morel Primo 12 : https://www.morelhifi.com/product/primo-subwoofer/

 

 

Whoa... Some nice setups you guys have.

I don't know what Seat has done to tweak the sound but it is one of the best I have heard in a car - I read/watched that they employed someone specialized in DSP that measured all the car sound and did some clever processing to fine tune it.

It has a minuscule subwoofer inside the spare wheel that sounds amazingly good for the size.

Also, I think that cars with the Seat Sound system have some extra audio insulation - it surely is more silent than my Skoda and I spotted, among other things, that the front fenders have some foam inside.

For the imaging, you can switch on the headunit the focus to the driver or all and it sounds brilliant.

I am seriously fussy about sound quality (I am a musician...) and am totally happy with the way this car sounds.

I think their secret is the DSP processing they have going on there.

Strange thing is that it is also a MIB2 system, so should not be so different from the Skoda.

I think one of the main differences is they use different speakers and speaker sizes (the door speakers are bigger...)

 

---edit--

Adding a link:

 

https://www.theguardian.com/inside-seat/2016/oct/17/hitting-the-right-note-on-the-road

Edited 9 October, 20187 yr by Jaco2k

you would definitely need to use road kill or noise killer or something else if you spend on ICE. its one of the worst cars for road noise other than my 61 beetle 

 

3 hours ago, z klasse said:

So im quite an audio freak.. I have a full Quad set up at home with 25L towers powered by a Quad QSP amp and Elite Quad Pre Amp with sound absorbing material on the opposite walls and ceilings which is put onto a grid that has rock wool inside. even my windows are double glass with a thick curtain in the front and my room door is 3.5 inches which has rock wool and synth (i think thats what its called) and the should is brilliant.. For my personal use I have Shure 535 with a FIIO E12 amplifier etc. So I am quite finicky when it comes to audio.

 

This set up of mine is really clean and the sound is really warm, but yes there is a lack of bass. For the woofer I might go with one of these amps with this woofer in the boot on the left hand side cavity enclosure.

 

Helix D - One MonoBlock: https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/d-one

Stetsom Iron Line 280.1 Mono Block : http://www.stetsom.com.br/en/produto/ir-280-1/

The woofer suggested to me is Morel Primo 12 : https://www.morelhifi.com/product/primo-subwoofer/

 

 

 

I was looking at that same amp from Helix but I will be going for this sub 10" Kicker Solobaric L3

http://caraudiosecurity.com/solobaric-10-l3-dual-2-subwoofer

Years ago I use to run 2 x 15" kicker solobaric's L5 OR L7 (think L5) & that had mega deep bass with my old kenwood eq graphic & Hifonic's amps. Miss those days  setting off car alarms 

 

 

 

Edited 9 October, 20187 yr by BATVANVRS

8 hours ago, BATVANVRS said:

 

Years ago I use to run 2 x 15" kicker solobaric's L5 OR L7 (think L5) & that had mega deep bass with my old kenwood eq graphic & Hifonic's amps. Miss those days  setting off car alarms 

The days of frosted jeans and mullets...

I've just received this... connect2 ISO piggyback harness that splits the outputs without cutting into the original loom. Should be really easy to wire my two amps and there's a ignition source wire as well, All the wires are labelled with the input/output on them which is really handy. 

anyone with a canton confirm where the optical from the headunit is connected to?

The sound on my SE / Bolero is a huge improvement on the Linear spec 4 speaker system on my old Saab 9-3.

 

The Audiotech Fischer Match, does it just plug into the ISO connector of the head unit in the glovebox?

My Pioneer DSP was a direct plug and play with a car specific harness which had to be bought separately. No splicing of wires in met set up. 

1 hour ago, z klasse said:

My Pioneer DSP was a direct plug and play with a car specific harness which had to be bought separately. No splicing of wires in met set up. 

 

thats what you can see in the image ive posted its the direct pnp harness for any standard audio input device like a DSP or amp. For a sub to work you need to take both the front and rear outputs as the fader will kill the sub if you use it on a stock radio. This is why id like to see if anyone has the optical in use with a canton or has figured out how to use it with an aftermarket DSP. there are quite a few that use optical and have a bypass channel to bridge to another amp or for mids/high separate amps.

1 minute ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

thats what you can see in the image ive posted its the direct pnp harness for any standard audio input device like a DSP or amp. For a sub to work you need to take both the front and rear outputs as the fader will kill the sub if you use it on a stock radio. This is why id like to see if anyone has the optical in use with a canton or has figured out how to use it with an aftermarket DSP. there are quite a few that use optical and have a bypass channel to bridge to another amp or for mids/high separate amps.

 

 

The pioneer dsp has 3 outputs and one of which is for the sub 

 

 

2 hours ago, WallMeerkat said:

The sound on my SE / Bolero is a huge improvement on the Linear spec 4 speaker system on my old Saab 9-3.

 

The Audiotech Fischer Match, does it just plug into the ISO connector of the head unit in the glovebox?

 

that looks like a great it of kit any idea on prices? I think some of those match versions have the optical connector that is a direct plugin for the amundsen and up, im not sure if its on the bolero.

10 minutes ago, z klasse said:

 

 

The pioneer dsp has 3 outputs and one of which is for the sub 

 

 

I have a type X sub that needs at least 600W. I went for the LC2i as it can output to both my sub and mids amp with remote gain control on the sub side and unfiltered preamp out.

Edited 10 October, 20187 yr by JohnnyType2

So incase I add a subwoofer the output from the dsp will go to mono block and all frequencies from 80 and below would go to the sub and RTA would be done for the subwoofer and I think it would sound great. 

just bought a new sundown 10" sub and wired it up on the bench and it pounds like mad! i've ordered the subbox for the octavia estate and im getting the wiring together along with some sound deadening. if the weather holds nice ill get it done in a week or two. i have to take my time as the nights are closing in faster.

here's what arrived today, the diagrams show how the wiring works and i have the dash remote already for this unit which allows you to control the sub without affecting the rear speaker fade. its compact and could even be fitted behind the screen in the dash. Quite a clever bit of kit if you cant find a cheap canton. I prefer my own setup anyway.

 

 

Edited 15 October, 20187 yr by JohnnyType2

10" sundown SD3 D4, 600W RMS and 1300W peak




 

4 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

10" sundown SD3 D4, 600W RMS and 1300W peak




 

The woofer housing looks neat.. Ready made? or got it made?

 

1 hour ago, z klasse said:

The woofer housing looks neat.. Ready made? or got it made?

 

 

They are on ebay at £80, I couldn't make it that cheap myself. 

2 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

They are on ebay at £80, I couldn't make it that cheap myself. 

Got a link?

1 hour ago, z klasse said:

Got a link?

estate or sedan?

1 minute ago, JohnnyType2 said:

estate or sedan?

Sedan