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Upgrading car speakers after collecting new car...

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here's a door removal video. its a bit quick but you can see how the panels come off.
 

 

Edited by JohnnyType2

Im trying to sketch out a map and it seems the MIB MOST has only 4 channel outputs front left/right and rear left/right, none for subwoofer or a bypass?

 

if upgrading to an aftermarket sub the ideal scenario would be to keep fader and balance control on the on all four speakers via the headunit..... but you have to tap into the rear channel for the subwoofer! so If you fade forward you lose the signal to the subwoofer amp....

 

Anyone any ideas on how to get around this? how is the canton sub wired? where does it get the signal input from?

 

I'm guessing the canton equipped MIB2 head unit has a 5th bass output signal?

There are lots of PnP MOST harnesses that tap into the speaker outputs (that bit is easy)... its how to preserve bass volume while fading the mids is the issue! anyone cracked it? this is on a non canton MIB2 headunit.

Edited by JohnnyType2

1 minute ago, JohnnyType2 said:

Im trying to sketch out a map and it seems the MIB MOST has only 4 channel outputs front left/right and rear left/right, none for subwoofer or a bypass?

 

if upgrding to an aftermarket sub the ideal scenario would be to keep fader and balance control on the on all four speakers via the headunit..... but you have to tap into the rear channel for the subwoofer! so If you fade forward you lose the signal to the subwoofer amp....

 

Anyone any ideas on how to get around this? how is the canton sub wired? where does it get the signal input from? IM guessing the headunit is specifically made for canton bass output signals? There are lots of PnP MOST harnesses that tap into the speaker outputs (that bit is easy)... its how to preserve bass volume while fading the mids is the issue! anyone cracked it? this is on a non canton MIB2 headunit.

 

 

Best way would be to get a DSP and then control everything from there. You do get plug and play harness as well so no splicing needed. 

1 minute ago, z klasse said:

 

 

Best way would be to get a DSP and then control everything from there. You do get plug and play harness as well so no splicing needed. 

 

you still lose fade control from the OEM head unit... that's my point. if you have to splice into the rear speaker signals.

 

 

Edited by JohnnyType2

I have fade control from the dsp. It’s accessible on the app. 

if you can control the app in android auto/smartlink that would work, but it has to be done from the HU.

Edited by JohnnyType2

Right now I can control all the sound via the iOS app. Don’t need to touch the HU for this 

yes thats good but i dont want to pull my phone out and if i leave it in the house and the settings remain from the last power on then im stuck. It has to be as OEM as possible. does anyone with a canton have a pic of the MOST connector going into the back of the unit?

 

Edited by JohnnyType2

The settings stay how you want them. You don’t need to keep tinkering with the phone for that. Get it saved and keep the preset saved at Dropbox or on your phone. If you delete something or alter you will always have a backup. You won’t be touching the dsp settings once set properly. Everything else is operated from the HU. 

4 minutes ago, z klasse said:

The settings stay how you want them. You don’t need to keep tinkering with the phone for that. Get it saved and keep the preset saved at Dropbox or on your phone. If you delete something or alter you will always have a backup. You won’t be touching the dsp settings once set properly. Everything else is operated from the HU. 

 

my kids get in with their own tech and i have to fade front, it still has to be controlled via the Headunit for me or it doesnt work, period. 

this would be ideal. but i don't think there is any factory bass? 
LC7i_typicalinstall.jpg

@z klassewhat size are the front factory speakers?

Just now, JohnnyType2 said:

@z klassewhat size are the front factory speakers?

I think just shy of 6 inches. 

 

 

4AAFFF60-8EB4-440A-8551-313774BCD514.jpeg

0D036B3A-4CA9-459B-8809-EDB1EF83957B.jpeg

60DAA0FD-3355-419B-ADCA-320C65F8B6BE.jpeg

7C483886-1923-4F4C-BEA5-70515A82FB40.jpeg

im going to say 5.25 then? did you mount adapters for your door speakers?

2 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

im going to say 5.25 then? did you mount adapters for your door speakers?

Yes. 

 

They can be seen here below the dampening. 

 

The stock speakers are sonovox. 

5DEDC709-F5E5-467C-A97A-EDDF6A298BD5.jpeg

DF6E793B-CAF2-45DC-9F8D-BCC23F48159D.jpeg

Edited by z klasse

have you got a link to the new ones so i check the size? if they are 6s or 5.25s

front and rear are the same size? looks like they are 5.25? from the spec. I have some really nice Type-R 5.25 components and type-x tweeters but ill shift them on for a full sundown component setup.

 

31 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

front and rear are the same size? looks like they are 5.25? from the spec. I have some really nice Type-R 5.25 components and type-x tweeters but ill shift them on for a full sundown component setup.

 

I was under the impression that the front & rear speakers are 6.5”

40 minutes ago, BATVANVRS said:

I was under the impression that the front & rear speakers are 6.5”

 

no idea would be great if someone could confirm?

I think this is correct its the same for the seat MIB so there are two speaker outputs 9/13 and 10/14 are for a centre speaker (after some research i found this over on the seat cupra forum.... success just have to test it now.

subout.jpg.7b138b02a9b88cf81f288a6b5ca4b4e0.jpg

Edited by JohnnyType2

3 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

no idea would be great if someone could confirm?

 

Hi.. I will measure this from the stock speakers that I have and let you know with a pic. 

7 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

I think this is correct its the same for the seat MIB so there are two speaker outputs 9/13 and 10/14 are for a centre speaker (after some research i found this over on the seat cupra forum.... success just have to test it now.

subout.jpg.7b138b02a9b88cf81f288a6b5ca4b4e0.jpg

Looks like this is seat only, hopes dashed, so if you want an after market sub you will need a 7C2i to feed the sub and split the front and rear signals if you want to retain fade control on the head unit 

so confirming with Pawel the canton sub is fed via the optical out on the back of the headunit. these pins are dead on the skoda (which dumb if you ask me)  going to search for a DSP with optical in.

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