I've touched it in with stonechip paint and paint anyway.  No doubt when it gets jacked next this will fall out!  I'll just keep an eye on it.  I still think it's a pretty rubbish way of jacking the car - there should be sacrificial jacking points that aren't part of the car's main structure if you ask me.

 

Has anyone else noticed their jacking points losing paint?

I've touched it in with stonechip paint and paint anyway. No doubt when it gets jacked next this will fall out! I'll just keep an eye on it. I still think it's a pretty rubbish way of jacking the car - there should be sacrificial jacking points that aren't part of the car's main structure if you ask me.

Has anyone else noticed their jacking points losing paint?

But they are only for emergencies when you have a flat so in the lifetime of the car they'll see next to no use.

Just reviving an old thread.

 

I changed my wheels around a few weeks back, using my trolley jack and some wood as a spacer. Still got damage on one corner as described above. Has anyone any newer suggestions or comments re hockey puck rubber or similar?

Just changed to winter tyres on my 2015 Octavia that I bought this summer. I was aware of this thread, so I used a 100 mm wide jack pad with a little groove in it on a trolley jack. The dealer even told me to do it like this and avoid the emergency jack supplied with the car.

The front jack points has a thick layer of under seal, and on the front left jack point the rubbery stuff split completely.

What now? Seems to be a very common problem - what's the recommended solution to avoid collection of water and dirt and eventually rust?

I always use the subframe mounting point, just a bit further behind the jack point at the front, I position the trolley jack cup over the big bolt head and use a bit of rubber mat to protect the car.

At the rear similar process on the strong beam where the trailing arm is bolted on.

I find this a very poor design and was the same on the MK2 Octavia.

If the underseal and paint has come off then the best thing would be to clean any dirt, make sure it's dry, apply some rust inhibitor then repaint/cover with underseal to prevent future problems.

My Saab has very good jacking points that the original jack slots into:

Shame Skoda couldn't have spent a few more ££s and done a better job.

I find this a very poor design and was the same on the MK2 Octavia.

If the underseal and paint has come off then the best thing would be to clean any dirt, make sure it's dry, apply some rust inhibitor then repaint/cover with underseal to prevent future problems.

My Saab has very good jacking points that the original jack slots into:

Shame Skoda couldn't have spent a few more ££s and done a better job.

BMWs have similar points.

From what I see I think if you use the jacking points you are better using a flat pad of wood etc. that uses the whole length of the reinforced jacking point.

 

The jacks/pads with a slot in just rough up the sides and you are still jacking on the bottom of the groove anyway unless the slot is exactly the depth of the jacking point (grooves do stop the jack slipping but it shouldn't be problem if it is chocked properly on level ground.

 

Is all I have used is a good pad of wood, no groove (before use!) on the trolley jack and the jacking point is still fairly intact. On the ramp I prefer to use the suspension points.

I used a big pad so that the weight is distributed along the entire reinforced jack point. The groove is just to prevent it from slipping. This is also how the dealer lifts the car, although on all four points simultaneously. The under seal could have been slightly damaged from lifting at the dealer for all I know.

On my car the rubbery stuff is really thick at the front jacking points, but the rest of the pinch weld and the rear jack points seem to just have a thin layer under the paint. Don't know why they cover the front lifting points in such a thick layer.

My old Mondeo had the same design, most other cars have lifting points on the pinch welds too. Not just Skoda. The points on Mk3 are reinforced and stronger than on the Octavia Mk2. The problem isn't the pinch weld but the really thick layer of underseal on the front jack points.

Edited 29 October, 20169 yr by Thnor

I used a big pad so that the weight is distributed along the entire reinforced jack point. The groove is just to prevent it from slipping. This is also how the dealer lifts the car, although on all four points simultaneously. The under seal could have been slightly damaged from lifting at the dealer for all I know.

On my car the rubbery stuff is really thick at the front jacking points, but the rest of the pinch weld and the rear jack points seem to just have a thin layer under the paint. Don't know why they cover the front lifting points in such a thick layer.

My old Mondeo had the same design, most other cars have lifting points on the pinch welds too. Not just Skoda. The points on Mk3 are reinforced and stronger than on the Octavia Mk2. The problem isn't the pinch weld but the really thick layer of underseal on the front jack points.

They probably underseal the front of the sill more as it gets more stone damage from the front wheels.

I find this a very poor design and was the same on the MK2 Octavia.

If the underseal and paint has come off then the best thing would be to clean any dirt, make sure it's dry, apply some rust inhibitor then repaint/cover with underseal to prevent future problems.

My Saab has very good jacking points that the original jack slots into:

Shame Skoda couldn't have spent a few more ££s and done a better job.

BMW Mini have a similar arrangement and it's great to jack up IMHO.

The biggest problem is if you catch them they come off, but then they're not expensive to replace the rubber boot.

hi,

I phoned the garage (2 sites therefore 2 calls) to try to get them to explain over the phone how to use the jack as supplied with the vehicle. I followed their instructions and I may have bent the sill. Tomorrow I'm going to the garage to get a technician to show me the right way. All I wanted to do was cycle the tyres round the vehicle. The Fabia jack would work fine, except I normally keep it in the Fabia. I'd quite like a jack for the Octavia. NOT very clever Skoda. Up till now it's been brilliant.

Just went to put spare on after a puncture. The SKODA scissor jack starts clicking + refusing to go any higher a good few cms before the car is raised enough to put the spare wheel on! Awesome 

Anyone know of a scissor jack that works better, and still fits ok into that 'parts hub' thing under under the boot mat?!

On 26/03/2015 at 12:16, Orville said:

I use a trolley jack and groved hardwood disc. The paint & underseal still splits because the underseal is flexible and a thin strip of it has to hold approximately 500kg of car. The underseal compresses and the paint flakes off. Eventually the underseal will peel from the seal ridge, but any exposed steel will undoubtedly be galvanised so will not rust. It's nothing to worry about.

 

I have a can of clear underseal and re-apply to the jacking points when I'm done.

On 29/10/2016 at 15:32, glosrich said:

I always use the subframe mounting point, just a bit further behind the jack point at the front, I position the trolley jack cup over the big bolt head and use a bit of rubber mat to protect the car.

At the rear similar process on the strong beam where the trailing arm is bolted on.

 

More or less the same as what I do.    But having OCD i use two trolley jacks, one either side of the car, so that in effect each jack is only lifting roughly a quarter of the weight of the car   (although I appreciate the front is probably heavier than the back).........