Alex's red Mk1 Fabia vRS BMN/BLT 16v hybrid - GTBvklr

[Lofty]

Alex, I'd not risk the inlet tbh. Better to source an "uncontaminated" one, clean it and get it painted.

 

Hate for you to put all this hard work in and for it to suddenly ingest a gob of powdercoat down the inlet valves.

 

Just my 2p worth buddy

[hutchysrs50]

not sure if this has been said or not, but it looks like you have two copper washers at the bottom of the injectors, might just be me though! 

 

edit: ignore that, should have looked again before posting! i now see the red washer beside the copper one

 

good project thread anyway

[coskev]

How far the internal pludger travels when it's at TDC

Incorrectly set you can lead to poorer spray pattern, and lower tip pressure, which can cause burned piston bowls

Lots of other factors like durations and timing can affect this also

You can always check the injector timings in group 13 the closer together the figures is ideal, setting the pludgers affects these figures

Ok cheers.is the revised setting one VAG have advised?

Or tuners/owners have found it better?

United Diesels told me to set at 225,so they can't be aware of the revised setting.

[hutchysrs50]

I recently set some on a 2006 1.9 Vw Golf, i checked the angle first and they were set at 225, i changed them to 180 and it now starts much better, cant say ive noticed any other improvments but before it would turn over twice before firing, starts as it should now and has done for a few weeks so the extra angle does make a difference.

[silky16v]

Ok cheers.is the revised setting one VAG have advised?

Or tuners/owners have found it better?

United Diesels told me to set at 225,so they can't be aware of the revised setting.

Yes as per the Bentley guide I believe, done all mine to 180 you seem to be able to get them balanced better, and better starting

I'll try find the thread

[silky16v]

First paragraph http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=306911

No need for a dial gauge either

[alex_e3]

Alex, I'd not risk the inlet tbh. Better to source an "uncontaminated" one, clean it and get it painted.

 

Hate for you to put all this hard work in and for it to suddenly ingest a gob of powdercoat down the inlet valves.

 

Just my 2p worth buddy

 

To be honest pal there's just a little bit left in there. I need to get some foam over cleaner in there this time. It should be fine then. I definitely will not be putting it on unless I'm totally happy with it!

 

 

 

Cheers for the info Matt. I never had any problems with starting in the past, but I might as well try out the new spec as it's such an easy job.

[alex_e3]

Managed a couple of hours down the unit after work this evening.

 

 

First off I took Matt's advice on the new injector lash setting and reset them all to a 180 degree back-off instead.

 

Next up I finished off cleaning up the cam cover and popped it on. Left 3 at the front loose for the metal fuel/coolant lines...

 

 

 

I fitted my freshly painted gear change weight and bracket...

 

 

I then fitted my new Draft 42 bushes to help tighten up the gear change a bit...

 

 

Unfortunately the next hour I spent fiddling with the gear change setup. As even though I hadn't changed the position of the plastic cable ends, the box is different. I couldn't get 1st, 3rd or 5th at all. So I spent a while fiddling then decided to lock the arm and gearstick in place and carry out the reset procedure. I did this and the top gears still feel a bit stiff which is odd - although I have all gears fine now. I'm guessing it's either because the box has been apart and is pretty dry, or because I've left a cable tie on under the car. As the gear change was absolutely spot on and crisp before the cables went on. I'll have a look when I get under the car tomorrow.

 

I also spent a bit of time trying to refresh my memory on the routing of the wiring! I have some soldering to do, as a few connectors have broken off unfortunately. So I will get them soldered and neatly insulated soon.

 

Work will continue tomorrow. Time is limited though, as I have someone's stop screw to alter!

 

 

On another note, I've ordered a re-profiled and re-trimmed steering wheel from Royal Steering Wheels! The stitching will be matching my Audi A1 seats. I've had thumb grips and a flat bottom added in, plus the thickness of the wheel increased. The grips at the side are being finished in alcantara too! I'll be sending them my gear knob, gaiter and handbrake soon to get them done as well

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[alex_e3]

Mixed day today. First off I had to adjust the stop screw on a mate's GT1752 hybrid. Turns out that the thing was going to be a nightmare! I spent 3 hours on it trying to find a setting to get good basic settings. Had to give up in the end - must be a problem with the actuator...  So that was 3 hours down already :(   Came back after some food and spent a few hours down there working on mine.

 

I wanted to get the driveshafts sorted. When I first took them off I inspected all the boots and found this on one...

 

 

Whilst there were no actual tears, it's obviously only a matter of time before one appears. So stripped the joint down with the aid of a big rubber mallet!...

 

 

I took all the ball bearings out and cleaned everything up. Grease everywhere! Then re-packed it with fresh grease and struggled to get the top clip on for ages! End result...

 

 

Next I cleaned up both shafts ready for fitting. Greased the splines and end threads too...

 

 

Also cleaned up the bolts and plates too. Look much better (cleaned up ones at the top)...

 

 

Shafts now fitted...

 

 

 

I nipped the bolts up, but will have to wait for someone to press the brake pedal so that I can tighten them up as well as the new hub nuts.

 

 

That's it for today! Party to go to tonight so will see what sort of state I'm in for work on it tomorrow

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[alex_e3]

So didn't get any work done yesterday. Managed to crack on for a couple of hours after work this evening though.

 

First off, I got the downpipe bolted up to the turbo and underneath. Slight problem though... one of the shifter cables was touching the exhaust...

 

 

I was going to leave the large heat shield off the car, but as a compromise I've cut the end off it to protect the shifter cables...

 

 

Heat shield section bolted on. Much better now and cables protected. The remainder of the cables will be fine, as the exhaust is nowhere near them (fake cat welded over the exhaust pipe in the picture)...

 

 

 

 

Next up I trial fitted the pipe from the oil cooler to see what I was dealing with...

 

 

I'm confident I'll get it to work from here, so I went ahead and put some PTFE tape on the threads of the thermostatic plate male-male adaptors...

 

 

Fitted...

 

 

 

Next up I spent quite a while trying to get all the stupid standard clips off the pipework. Most difficult ones were the small fuel line clips. Bloody nightmare! I then cleaned up the tandem pump. Much cleaner and ready to be fitted with new gasket...

 

 

I also cleaned up the coolant housing. Then fitted them both. I then put all the pipes back on the car loosely to figure out what went where again!...

 

 

 

 

Not sure if I'll get chance to work on the car tomorrow or not, due to working late. Definitely on Wednesday though. I want to polish the fuel rail at the front of the head, then cut all new coolant and fuel lines to size and fit them. I have just ordered some of the remaining clips that I needed.

 

There's really not much left to do now thankfully. I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel! ...and as such, I've booked the car in for its MOT for next Monday!

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[alex_e3]

Figured I needed to get down to the unit tonight if I could. So popped down after I'd come home from work and managed to get a couple of hours on it.

 

First I set about polishing up the fuel rail. Not perfect, but looks much tidier now and shines nicely ...

 

 

 

I then spent ages trial fitting and trimming new pipework to go on. It's not possible to replace all the pipes due to the complexity of them, but most have been replaced. The only ones that haven't are the 2 main thick coolant pipes, and the bottom pipe from the heater matrix to the metal pipe along the block. I'm pleased with how it's coming out...

 

 

 

 

I've got extra hose clips on the way, so will pop them on once they've arrived. Plus there's just 1 fuel link pipe to do as well.

 

 

Good progress being made! Hopefully get onto the wiring tomorrow evening. This will take a while, as I need to do some soldering to a few connectors on the loom that the wiring broke on.

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[DanHarper]

What type of pipe are you using for the oil/fuel lines?

[Dark_Hero]

Paint your dip stick tube

[hutchysrs50]

Alternator looks decent in black as well

[alex_e3]

What type of pipe are you using for the oil/fuel lines?

 

Some specific oil hose that I found on eBay that said it was suitable for such use. I emailed the guy to check it was definitely suitable for diesel, which it is.

 

 

 

Paint your dip stick tube

 

Quite like it as standard to be honest!

[alex_e3]

Couple of hours spent down there tonight.

 

First up, picked up some more oven cleaner, but some that foams up this time. Left my TIP and inlet manifold to soak again...

 

 

 

I had a bit more of a think about the oil cooler hoses. I figured there is enough room to turn the thermostatic plate round slightly so that the hoses point slightly away from the block. However, as Kev found out, the tab on the housing gets in the way...

 

 

So used the angle grinder and trimmed that off flat. Forgot to take a picture, but the thermostatic plate now points more outwards.

 

 

Next up, I wanted to get the wiring sorted for my 3 extra gauges. So first off I threadlocked accordingly and tightened the EGT probe in place...

 

 

I then covered the metal wiring in convoluted tubing to keep things neat and as OE looking as possible. Then tidied the routing up...

 

 

 

The oil temp sender was next. Covered in tubing again, then routed down to the connectors at the sump. Took me a bit to find a suitable route, but ended up using a P-clip on the bolt for the little cover on the gearbox bellhousing. This keeps the wiring away from the driveshaft. I also used the holes in the bottom of the block to cable tie the wiring to...

 

 

 

 

Finally I routed the cabling for the oil pressure switch, then took it back out to tidy it up with tubing also...

 

 

 

Cabling now all nice and tidy and cabled tied...

 

 

 

That's it for tonight! More wiring tomorrow!

Edited 4 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[pip_vrs]

Looking good mate, where did you get the temp and pressure from?

What you using in the car to read these?

[hutchysrs50]

im very jealous of this build, alot of effort your putting into it!

[alex_e3]

Looking good mate, where did you get the temp and pressure from?

What you using in the car to read these?

 

Cheers! The senders and wiring came with the gauge. I've got 3 of these...

 

http://rspec.co.uk/b-gauges-b/stepper-motor-peak-green-white-prosport-gauge?zenid=mp0pevu5n1bg90p3usakujbhl3

 

 

 

im very jealous of this build, alot of effort your putting into it!

 

Thanks for the kind comments  I'm hoping it starts and I have no problems or leaks when I turn the key! I won't want to drive it at first ha ha!

[alex_e3]

About 4 hours spent down there this evening.

 

First off I decided that I was not happy with the hose clamps that ASH supplied me. I think they look and feel cheap. Hence I popped to a local supplier with a huge list of hose clips to buy. This is what £75 of Jubilee clips look like!!...

 

 

I nearly cried!

 

I filled the inlet manifold with yet more oven cleaner to try make damn sure the crap is gone, then started replacing all the clips. Look far better and are much much better quality with better clamping...

 

 

I really do NOT recommend ASH hoses to be honest. I've had nothing but problems with orders from them. I'm still waiting on my 15 degree alloy pipe from 3 bloody months ago. Phoned up about it again the other day. So I'll have to get the new filter on once that's arrived.

 

 

Next up I had to make a cable up to earth out the oil sender relocation kit. I used the bolt attaching the metal coolant pipe to the block...

 

 

Other end fitted nicely...

 

 

 

I then decided to finally start to tackle the wiring. It's been that long since I took it apart that I forgot some of the routing. So I spent a while doing a mock up of where everything goes. Finally got it sussed!...

 

 

 

Due to the fact that the standard oil pressure switch has been relocated, I then went about extending the wiring for it. Soldering done...

 

 

Decided to fit some convoluted tubing to it to make it look like part of the original loom...

 

 

 

I then final fitted the new oil pressure sender wiring that I did yesterday, along with fitting this half of the loom (after it was cleaned up of course!). Lots of cable ties used to get it looking really neat. Very happy with the result...

 

 

 

 

 

That's it for tonight. Tomorrow I want to get the other loom done. A bit of soldering required for that one too, as there's a few broken connectors. Hopefully I'll also be satisfied enough with my inlet manifold to finally get the intake and boost hoses back in place. Also want to start to paint the last part of the exhaust black so that it's more discreet.

Edited 4 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[J306TD]

Looking good Alex. Few more hours and it will be there. Still on track for its MOT on Monday?

Sent from my Galaxy S5

[alex_e3]

Not sure at the minute to be honest. As I have my mate's 30th birthday night out on Saturday :/  We're off cross-country too, so won't be back on Sunday until early afternoon.

 

Fingers crossed. See how much I get done tomorrow after work.

[alex_e3]

Getting really tight for time now. All jobs seem to be taking forever! Spent another 4 hours working on it this evening.

 

First up, I spent a fair while prepping my exhaust for high temperature paint in black...

 

 

Managed to twist it over and do both sides this evening. All done and ready to go on...

 

 

 

Inlet manifold was finally fully clean at long last!! That last (and 4th I might add!) dose of oven cleaner really cleaned the rest out. Although I now annoyingly have some chips in the coating which I'll have to touch up with some satin black paint. Still looks well fitted though...

 

 

Got my modified and powdercoated TIP on too. New bracket that was welded on fits perfectly with the standard rubber grommet...

 

 

Whilst I was at that I had to pop on my catch can hose due to tightness with the inlet manifold. Also soaked the other pipe in hot water and wrangled it onto the cam cover...

 

 

Cleaned up the ASV valve and popped that on along with my powdercoated EGR delete valve.

 

 

I then popped the bottom radiator hose onto the block and then final adjusted the position of the thermostatic sandwich plate to allow for good hose routing before tightening it up. I then popped some PTFE tape on the threads and wound on my 2 straight adaptors...

 

 

Then popped my oil cooler hose on ready to route to the front of the car...

 

 

 

I then cut my green vacuum hoses to size and put them roughly into position. I wanted to pop the vacuum box back on, but when cleaning the bracket up I wasn't happy with it...

 

 

So I quickly prepped it and out came the black satin paint!...

 

 

 

Getting there...

 

 

 

Did some other small little jobs as well. I'm off down there for 9.30am tomorrow morning to get some more done before I go away for the day for my mate's 30th celebrations! Then I'll have a very long day on it on Sunday with the inevitable hangover!!

Edited 4 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[coskev]

Those coloured hoses will get you some points down Maccy D's car park baldy!!!!!

You might find you need to alter the angle of your oil thermostatic plate though,as the rad fan frame work sits pretty close to the air con pump,but you might be ok as your gay green pipe is not reinforced like the pipe supplied by Darkside with the kits,so might allow you enough clearance.

On mine and joes it gave better clearance using one straight connector and one 90degree one.

[alex_e3]

We're not all old and boring like you gramps

I can do any necessary adjustments when I pop the front end back on. Hopefully it'll be ok, as I'm planning on mounting it in front of the intercooler for now, so pipes should be clear of aux belt [emoji106]

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