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I've just bought Skoda Fabia 1.2 classic 2005...

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I've got it off a mate at extremely discounted price. It has a few issues that needs fixing. I'm hoping one of you guys/gals could help me with this.

 

Issue #1: The battery cover is damaged/loose, it has some tape holding it. I'm worried about potential electrical problems with rainwater.

 

Issue #2. I can see ground below the car if I look in the area slightly left to engine's cam-belt. Is this normal?

 

Issue #3. The car slightly smells of petrol when starting the car. While I have only started the car twice, once inside the dealership (My mate owns a dealership) where there's all sorts of petrol lying around. The smell was pretty strong. Second time was outside the dealership, I did smell petrol but it's very faint. Is this something I should worry?

 

Issue #4: The clear/cloud white plastic tube similar to windscreen fluid reservoir at bottom left sitting in top-right corner of engine compartment has broken blue caps, it won't close. Does it need urgent attention?

 

Finally, the manual wasn't really clear (English isn't my first language) about light switch. To clarify this: If I want to use dipped headlights at night, I should turn the switch clockwise up to one notch. Up to second notch is for full beam headlights. For fog lights, I should turn it up to two notches and pull the switch?

Edited by JoeBloggs

Congrats on the fabia! Id love a smaller engined petrol to put something interesting in it!

Ill do my best to answer your questions:

1. Get a new one...but the bonnet should stop any major water damage to the battery! If its still running and not suffering any problema with the broken taped one then it should be fine till you get another...probs a couple of quid on ebay!

2. might need someone with a 1.2 to clarify but im not sure if a 1.2 has an undertray! I dont run one and i can just see the floor from the top down. I can imagine with a smaller engine without one you'd see quite a bit of the floor! Nothing to worry about! Doubt the engine sump is very low on those engines either!

3. Keep an eye on that! Like you said it could just be the workshop! Give the car a thorough clean in and out and of you can still smell it then take it back to the garage.

4. not sure on that? Got a pic?

5. Spot on! Well done haha

Enjoy fabia ownership! Im.on my second and even though they can frustrate the hell out of you they are fun little cars!

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1. The battery is quite high up, so not much splashed water should reach there, but I suggest you replace the cover if you are worried. Should be very cheap secondhand, and probably not too expensive new from Skoda.

 

2. Yes, there is some space there where you can see the ground.  I guess you mean the auxiliary belt, as these engines have a timing chain under an alloy cover.

 

3. Yes, you must take this seriously, unless you're smelling it only at/from the tailpipe, it's an exhaust gas leak or a petrol leak, it needs to be fixed for your safety.

 

4. Can't understand what you're describing here, a picture would help.

 

 

Headlight switch, first click clockwise = parking lights only

second position clockwise = dipped beam

full beam is controlled by the indicator switch being pulled/pushed

foglights - pull light switch toward you one click = rear front fogs only

second click towards you  = fog lights front and rear.

 

Dunno how this changes if front fogs aren't present.

  • Author

Thanks and apologies for confusion regarding to issue #4. I don't have the car with me, so I was describing from my memory. I don't think there was ever a blue cap at bottom left in the engine bay at all. The blue cap I was describing is to right of the battery, not top right. I think this is windscreen washer fluid.

 

2766461sb.jpg

My power steering fluid cap was green and bottom roght

Finally, the manual wasn't really clear (English isn't my first language) about light switch. To clarify this: If I want to use dipped headlights at night, I should turn the switch clockwise up to one notch. Up to second notch is for full beam headlights. For fog lights, I should turn it up to two notches and pull the switch?

 

First position is sidelights, second is dipped beam, switch to main beam by pushing the indicator stalk forwards, front fogs pull out one click, front and rear fogs pull out two clicks unless you don't have front fogs in which case just one click for rear.

 

The washer bottle cap isn't urgent but it's cheap so get one ordered anyway.

  • Author

Thanks everyone.

 

I've received the car yesterday. I've put 50 miles into this car already. There's no petrol smell on this car. however, I do have a few more questions:

 

1. I was given one key. It's plain key, no remote control or anything like that. How much does it cost me to get a key with remote control built in?

 

2. I have issues with door lock system. If a door is opened, it won't lock when shut until I push the locking pin (What's the name for it?) down. This can be annoying when I have to go around the car pushing the pins down.

Edited by JoeBloggs

Thanks everyone.

 

I've received the car yesterday. I've put 50 miles into this car already. There's no petrol smell on this car. however, I do have a few more questions:

 

1. I was given one key. It's plain key, no remote control or anything like that. How much does it cost me to get a key with remote control built in?

 

2. I have issues with door lock system. If a door is opened, it won't lock when shut until I push the locking pin (What's the name for it?) down. This can be annoying when I have to go around the car pushing the pins down.

 

1.  You obviously don't have remote central locking fitted so you don't need a remote key.

 

2.  Do you actually have central locking fitted at all?

1. You obviously don't have remote central locking fitted so you don't need a remote key.

2. Do you actually have central locking fitted at all?

All 05 ones should have it as it was standard, sounds like an aftermarket cut key

All 05 ones should have it as it was standard, sounds like an aftermarket cut key

 

Didn't think the Classic had remote, it was a cost option.

Didn't think the Classic had remote, it was a cost option.

Really? My 53 plate classic had one and according to the order sheet had no optional extras
  • Author

This car is 55 plate. The car key look like this. If central locking is fitted on this car, how do I use it?

When you turn key in drivers door do all doors unlock?

  • Author

When you turn key in drivers door do all doors unlock?

 

No.

  • Author

One more question, the display located between tachometer and speed dial, isn't showing anything. Is the screen damaged? If so, how much to replace it?

One more question, the display located between tachometer and speed dial, isn't showing anything. Is the screen damaged? If so, how much to replace it?

Nope it's just an option that wasn't fitted. Mine is the same. Just the warning lights in the middle
  • Author

After a week of driving, EPC and engine light has appeared. It only seems to appear when I turn the car key half-way on, it won't disappear after few seconds like normally it does. The lights completely disappears when I actually start the car. Is this an issue?

After a week of driving, EPC and engine light has appeared. It only seems to appear when I turn the car key half-way on, it won't disappear after few seconds like normally it does. The lights completely disappears when I actually start the car. Is this an issue?

Nope, mine always did that

Yes it's normal.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Thanks guys,

 

I'll be using this thread for any "issues" I encounter.

 

Here's two issues:

 

Fuel mileage isn't very good. I put £20 in every week and I drive 30 miles per day for 4 days a week. Fuel price around here is 117.8p. So that calculates to about 32 mpg. That's not very good, I was expecting around upper end of 40 as it was dual carriageway @ 40-60 mph most of the way and I was driving economically.

 

The car vibrates a lot, I almost can feel the vibration on steering wheels. It occurs when the car is at a stop and engine is warm. I think it's a cylinder misfire? If so, then engine light hasn't shown up, so it's probably disconnected or damaged. Is there a way to test if engine light works?

 

Now, I've bought this car from a mate. I didn't mention was that he's bought it off a dodgy bloke. So, no servicing history, except MOTs here and there.

 

I've decided that it's good idea to replace a part that would cost me a lot more to replace if it was to fail right now. I've decided on two parts to replace: Timing chain or head-gasket. Which would you recommend replacing right now? I don't have money to replace both right now so I'll replace second part next year.

 

Lastly, which type of oil should I use? Should I replace the oil or re-fill it?

Thanks guys,

 

I'll be using this thread for any "issues" I encounter.

 

Here's two issues:

 

Fuel mileage isn't very good. I put £20 in every week and I drive 30 miles per day for 4 days a week. Fuel price around here is 117.8p. So that calculates to about 32 mpg. That's not very good, I was expecting around upper end of 40 as it was dual carriageway @ 40-60 mph most of the way and I was driving economically.

 

The car vibrates a lot, I almost can feel the vibration on steering wheels. It occurs when the car is at a stop and engine is warm. I think it's a cylinder misfire? If so, then engine light hasn't shown up, so it's probably disconnected or damaged. Is there a way to test if engine light works?

 

Now, I've bought this car from a mate. I didn't mention was that he's bought it off a dodgy bloke. So, no servicing history, except MOTs here and there.

 

I've decided that it's good idea to replace a part that would cost me a lot more to replace if it was to fail right now. I've decided on two parts to replace: Timing chain or head-gasket. Which would you recommend replacing right now? I don't have money to replace both right now so I'll replace second part next year.

 

Lastly, which type of oil should I use? Should I replace the oil or re-fill it?

 

Your fuel mileage is a little low but not dramatically so, the 12V engine is more economical than the 6V, a 15 mile commute isn't really enough for the engine to spend much time at peak temperature for economy, your first few miles will be very thirsty.

 

I wouldn't recommend replacing either the timing chain or the head gasket if they are working well, burnt exhaust valves are common on these engines, the time to do this work is when you have the head revalved, save your money.

 

Change the oil and filter if it's due, otherwise just top up, any multigrade engine oil is ok for just topping up.

  • Author

This car failed MOT last year due to exhaust issues. I assume what you've described about issues with exhaust is what happened in this case. It's replaced though.

 

The reason why I'm thinking about replacing timing chain or head gasket because there's absolutely no information about its history. I don't know when it was replaced or if it was even replaced at all.

 

I've checked the dipstick, the oil level is little low, so it needs replacing. The only issue is that I don't know what type of oil the previous owner used for this car and I don't know if it's safe to re-fill with different type of oil.

Change the oil mate I would. After that unless the chain is noisy I would leave that. Also leave the head gasket unless your losing coolant/oil at an alarming rate or if it's mixing. Also check your exhaust if there is a lot of white smoke then that's coolant burning.

Otherwise oil change air filter usual stuff maybe flush coolant and refill get all the old fluids out

Hope this helps

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