WARM UP TIME?

[DILLIGAFF]

Now winter is here once again the need for a heater/demister arises.

 

My little Citigo needs about 3 miles of driving before the heater gets past luke warm. Is this about normal?

 

I thought modern cars had thermostatically controlled valves that allowed virtually instant heat??

[Owens]

Its not until the engine reaches near temp that the thermostat kicks in and the hot water circulates into the heater. If you have the PID or multi function dais display set it/them to show the temp and you will see how quick it goes up. Have you got the AC on as it will take a little longer to get warm air out of the heater?

[dave hendy]

That does sound quite long, more like my diesel. My wife's Citigo gets warm very quickly I would say about 1 mile.

[Stormchaser]

Mines at 90 within a mile [emoji106]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mannyo]

As long as the temp is above 4c then you can use the AC to demist the screen, won't help with the heat but you'll be able to see where you are going.

[DILLIGAFF]

Thanks guys. No PID but have thought of maybe getting a water temp. gauge fitted.

 

Anyone done this???

 

Also, Mannyo, yes I use the A/C to demist.

 

Never understand how people in modern cars drive about with all the windows fogged up?

[mannyo]

My Audi takes about 1/2 mile before heat starts coming out of the heater, but another mile or so before it hits 90 on the temp gauge (at town speeds).

[Emil]

Thermostat starts to open at certain temperature, and allows coolant fluid circulate thru radiator, so called large circuit. Before that coolant circulates in small circuit, engine and heater element.

So yes, you get some heat after minute or so, but if you use higher blower settings it takes longer to reach operating temperature. That's because heater element works like radiator, it cools down the coolant fluid.

Luckily Citigo has exhaust manifold which is built inside sylinder head. So engine reaches operating temperature relatively fast, which of course give nice temperature inside the car.

[sharkrider]

ours takes about a mile to get hot air out....

[GaSelle]

Thanks guys. No PID but have thought of maybe getting a water temp. gauge fitted.

 

Anyone done this???

 

Also, Mannyo, yes I use the A/C to demist.

 

Never understand how people in modern cars drive about with all the windows fogged up?

You should retrofit MFA instead (onboard computer). That gives you temperature (water and outside), consumption etc.

[Citigopher]

You should retrofit MFA instead (onboard computer). That gives you temperature (water and outside), consumption etc.

How much does THAT cost?!

[DILLIGAFF]

UPDATE....................

 

I booked into the very nice peeps at LOOKERS SKODA in Guildford to have this checked under warranty.

 

They tell me there is a software u/g which stops the cooling fan turning on at every restart, which may be the cause of my slow warm up?

Needs a new ECU which is now on order.

 

Will let you know if it makes a difference.

[oxonboxn]

UPDATE....................

 

I booked into the very nice peeps at LOOKERS SKODA in Guildford to have this checked under warranty.

 

They tell me there is a software u/g which stops the cooling fan turning on at every restart, which may be the cause of my slow warm up?

Needs a new ECU which is now on order.

 

Will let you know if it makes a difference.

Strange that you haven't had this done yet...many on here had this done months ago!

[Chris GB]

I reckon it depends on the temperature and the nature of the driving. If I am out of the house and into slow moving traffic, with the heater turned up, it can take 3 miles before heat is decent. If I come out and go up onto the nearby dual carriage way, leave the heat off until temp shows 90 deg, I can have hot air coming in at around 1 mile. The engine produces very little waste heat at low speed and load and the heater fan is easily capable of dropping the engine temperature in traffic if you set it to pump lots of heat in.

[GaSelle]

How much does THAT cost?!

In DK, including cruise control (OEM), around £250 fitted.

[DILLIGAFF]

OXO............

 

First time she's seen a Skoda dealer.

I had the first service done at a local independent garage as it is basically just an oil change and a wipe over with a greasy rag.

[DILLIGAFF]

OK. Took her down to Lookers this morning, and had a quick nosey round the expansive Harley dealership nearby while waiting for the new ECU to be fitted.

Had a nice free coffee in Lookers reception and it was all ready in about an hour. They gave her a quick once over, checked the tyre pressures AND wash and hoover.

All no charge.

Seemed a lot quieter on the run home but will need to try a proper cold start to notice the difference.

Oh, and ordered a touch-up pen to try and paint in the little scratch on the rear wing. £11 delivered. 

[Hughp]

The quickest way is to start the engine, turn heater on windscreen and pour WARM water on to the windscreen, it will not crack if warm (mine never has anyway). AC is an expensive way to heat a car, will use more energy and as such cost more to run.

[Owens]

AC will only remove/reduce the condensate on the inside of the car. It also reduce the heater output temperature by the nature of its operation.

[rosesteve]

The quickest way is to start the engine, turn heater on windscreen and pour WARM water on to the windscreen, it will not crack if warm (mine never has anyway). AC is an expensive way to heat a car, will use more energy and as such cost more to run.

I have been using this warm water method for years just make sure it is near cold otherwise you'll need to call Autoglass! , using de-icer reduces the temperature of the screen through its evaporation and only makes internal condensation worse. I only ever use air on in the winter if it's a particularly damp day with a full car causing the windows to mist up.