As I mentioned, you need to restart Amundsen.

Press and hold the power button approx. 30 secs.

The same thing happened to me after coding.

After restarting the infotainment it will be fine.

(I hope my little reversing camera arrives soon )

Farokinha

Do you have front/rear parking sensors on your car..?

Farokinha

Do you have front/rear parking sensors on your car..?

 

Yes, it´s a VRS MK3.

 

I will try to restart it tomorrow and see!

 

Which camera did you get? 

 

Thanks for the help!

My first thought was:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Reverse-Camera-for-VW-Skoda-Octavia-3-passat-lavida-13-Gran-lavida-park/32248058089.html

But the camera would be in the wrong place and partially block the light from the license plate light. :|

Finally (after hours of searching) I chose this one:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CCD-HD-night-vision-car-rear-view-camera-front-view-side-view-rear-monitor-for-360/451832973.html

(The "rear wireless DVD" version.)

I think I will place it between the lid switch and one of the license plate lights...I will have to drill a hole...

I am a lucky type so I think I can fit the whole thing through the opening of the license plate light.

After coding the license plate lights as revesing lights (+ function) I can feed the camera from the license plate light 

(Only issue would be the daytime activating license plate lights when reversing...no problem for me.)

My first thought was:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Reverse-Camera-for-VW-Skoda-Octavia-3-passat-lavida-13-Gran-lavida-park/32248058089.html

But the camera would be in the wrong place and partially block the light from the license plate light. :|

Finally (after hours of searching) I chose this one:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CCD-HD-night-vision-car-rear-view-camera-front-view-side-view-rear-monitor-for-360/451832973.html

(The "rear wireless DVD" version.)

I think I will place it between the lid switch and one of the license plate lights...I will have to drill a hole...

I am a lucky type so I think I can fit the whole thing through the opening of the license plate light.

After coding the license plate lights as revesing lights (+ function) I can feed the camera from the license plate light 

(Only issue would be the daytime activating license plate lights when reversing...no problem for me.)

 

After reboot it´s OK!

 

Thanks so much!

 

I will wait for your feedback about this camera..i´m a noob with electrical things, so i don´t know how to connect the camera do the car unit  :p

 

Maybe something like this? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/ipod-usb-aux/aux-input-car-adaptors/ct29au03-av-upgrade-adapter-for-audi-a3-a4-a6-a8

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by farokinha

Nice projects guys  :clap:

 

I have finished today the Side Assist Plus in the Octavia, it works very nice =)

 

I must only integrated the LEDs in the mirrors.

Someting i found in the spanish forum for the Leon that can help us a little more - Rear view camera 

 

http://www.clubseatleon.net/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106679

Simply clever was when I had to scrape the ice of the windows in the morning and ice scraper was in the fuel cap which was obviously frozen.

Hello again,

 

How do you remove the plastic part from the trunk? You just need to unscrew this in red and pull the plastic?

 

 

And where can i get 12V for the camera? I´m thinking in the reverse lights.

 

Thanks 

OK, camera arrived from China, retrofit project started

First issue: I ordered a wireless set but seller sent me a wired set...

Not a big problem (I will get some refund). And I don't have to worry about the always running wireless receiver.

Picture quality is OK even in full darkness. (I have a little bit brighter LED reverse lights + double brightness LED license plate lights.)

First test video (camera not adjusted 100% correctly):

http://youtu.be/i9_hOvgJukc

The viewing angle is not so great (I think it's maximum 80-90 degree). It's okay for the price. It is adjustable in all directions wich is good.

Camera is powered from the left reverse light. I had to code it to "43 allgemeine LED / dimmwert 127" with VCDS (image was disturbed with running engine).

More details will follow

Edited 21 February, 201511 yr by aki78

Nice!

How do you remove the inside plastic from the trunk?

In what exact spot did you get the 12V for the camera?

Some pics for help.

First unscrew and the rubber handle's screw.

Then all you have to do is unclick the plastic cover from clip to clip.

It's not so easy... I think a good starting point is next to the lock or one of the bottom edges.

Don't start at the upper (window) side otherwise the top cover will damage the bottom cover you are working on. Keep an eye on the connection point while you are working.

When you are done with the first two or three clips it will be easier.

Use a torch to see what are you doing.

You will need to apply high force to unclick the clips.

Take care of the body! The metal is unbelievable thin. Don't use it to support your tool. I have made some small dents :(

Don't do it below 15 C degree.

Good luck!

(I will upload some pics about my wiring (I am finished :clap: )

Edited 21 February, 201511 yr by aki78

12V:

1) remove the rear lamp, you don't have to remove the connector

2) turn off your lights

3) ignition on

4) reverse gear

5) now the only light is the reverse light

6) use a multimeter to check wich wires get 12V

7) on mine the outer bottom (thicker brown wire) was (-) and inner bottom was (+)

And 12V from the reverse light will be okay only if coded to LED with VCDS!!

Otherwise the picture of the camera won't be okay. Mine was completely off with jumping vertical lines..

I believe it's not a problem if you code the regular incadescent bulbs to LEDs.

But that VCDS coding isnt only for license plate lights, and you are getting 12v from reverse lights?

The system controls the brightness of the bulbs with 12 V impulses (with fast switching On/Off or something like that).

So the bulbs never get pure 12 V but they get impulses. The camera will go crazy because of the impulses.

If you recode the reverse lights to LED they will get pure 12 V (or maybe a little bit higher). It's okay for powering the camera.

Edited 21 February, 201511 yr by aki78

Pulse Width Modulation is the phrase you are looking for - basically turn 12v on and off to give an average lower voltage.

 

A filament bulb won't mind this, it is after all similar to how a dimmer switch works in your house (although that is AC).

 

Anything expecting a continuous, ripple free, power supply won't like it though.

Thanks for clarifying and now I know that PWM starts working in a few seconds after the engine is started

(I had no problems with ignition on but when I started the engine the camery gone crazy in a few secs.)

Yep, when the alternator kicks in the PWM will regulate the 14 odd volts back to down to about 12 and a half.

 

Anything Audio Visual related needs some serious noise cancellation to get rid of the interference generated by switched mode power supplies.

We want more pictures aki78  :clap:

duplicate, ignore

Well that didn't go well :(

The camera arrived today and when I looked the power connector on it was different to the one on the loom. The loom was a square type connector with 4 pins and 3 wires connected (red/yellow/black). The camera was a simple 2 pin connector.

Never mind, me thinks, and snips off the connector and connected red on the camera to the 12v supply on the rear wiper and the black to earth. The video feed cables are connected to pins 6 and 12 on the blue quadlock connector.

All connected up, VCDS coded in and the Columbus rebooted (30s on power). Now all that happens is I get a black screen when in reverse. I can't find any breaks in the cables so am at a loss as to what is wrong.

Also, I now appear to have no DAB reception! I've checked and all the cables are in the back of the unit, but I'm unsure which is the DAB aerial connector.

Back to the drawing board!

Try connecting some other video source to the head unit / or connect your reverse camera to your TV to check what's wrong...

That's next on the plan, I just need to find another source as nothing I have has composite output and the TV doesn't have composite in.

I've had to put the car back together to go to work.

Result - very long lead at work proves camera is ok. Now just to figure why Columbus isn't playing and DAB has stopped working.

I'm thinking dab is the black Fakra connector but could do with confirmation.