Hi folks,

 

I'm having issues with hesitation between 1500 and 2500 rpm, feels down on power too. A new MAF, PCV Valve, Air Filter and Plugs have all been fitted since the issue started.

 

Had it a local garage, who detected the following error codes:

 

P1602-002 - Terminal 30 Low Voltage ( the battery had been disconnected recently, so this may of caused this)

P0100-004 - MAF low voltage supply - intermittent

 

The codes were reset yesterday, and the car run fine for 40 minutes or so and then the hesitation returned.

 

 

PS During a previous service at a main dealers they said that it had displayed an intermittent fault with the ignition switch, which wasn't replaced, could this be related. Apparently driving round with a huge bunch of key in the ignition (I'm guilty if this) can damage the switch.

 

This is driving me nuts at the moment - PPS I confess, I'm no great mechanic.

 

Cheers!

PPPS - should of said, it's a petrol engine.

Is the new maf sensor a genuine one or a cheap aftermarket alternative, the only way forward is to scan it again for codes and a full diagnostic inspection.

 the only way forward is to scan it again for codes and a full diagnostic inspection.

Agree!  

Never change components before you are not sure for 100% that is faulty. 

Simple fault reading is not the way how to test components, live data-component readings than environment of components.

For example vacuum leak can cause EML and faults about MAF and Lambda sensors but they are in order.

So, first of all Diagnostic Inspection as freelanderman mentioned.

The new MAF is genuine VAG part, also, the Engine Management Light has never come on.

The new MAF is genuine VAG part, also, the Engine Management Light has never come on.

What was a reason to change MAF then?

The error code!

Did you saw readings before and after change MAF?
It was permanent fault or just what you mentioned 'P0100-004 - MAF low voltage supply - intermittent' ?
Is any other fault code after all components changed? 

The fault codes are after the MAF was fitted.

 

I actually fitted the new MAF at home, so any codes were not cleared at this time.

 

I took the car back to the garage yesterday, as the problem was still present, they ran diag. checks again yesterday, and this showed the codes above.

 

They cleared the codes, I collected the car, which ran fine for 40 minutes or so, then the problem reappeared.

 

This is the other code they found and cleared yesterday - P1602-002 - Terminal 30 Low Voltage.

And that's it?  Looks like its time to change the battery or check alternator and ALL power connections

If the car is starting alright every day in this cold weather I would forget about changing the battery and concentrate on cheking àll power connection's especially the earth points around the chassis.

 I would forget about changing the battery

Not so fast 

What about procedure sequence like Alternator output test and battery test?

Car's starting totally fine, battery is pretty new anyway, mechanic actually checked and cleaned up all the chassis earth connections yesterday. I actually disconnected the battery in the midst of my investigation and googling around this may well of caused P1602-002 - Terminal 30 Low Voltage. What do you think?

Delete the fault code, then you are starting with a clean sheet, I apreciate that this may be difficult if you don't have a fault code reader or vcds.

If you have a multimeter check the alternator output voltage with it loaded, headlights and heated screen switched on, should read around 14 volts.

Cheers Freelander,

 

I have actually just had a code reader delivered this morning and a multimeter is winging it's way from Amazon!

Code reader tried last night and found No Codes Store in Module, helpful. Just thinking though, could the codes from Wednesday be red herrings, as the battery had been disconnected and the car had been driven without the MAF connected? Would this have caused the codes to be created. Also, when the problem re occurred I was driving up hill and shortly after the fuel light came on! This takes me right back to my original thought on the issue which led me to replace the fuel filter.

Could it be a split vacuum / breather hose? If so, what's the best way to go about checking for a leak? Also, what about a worn HPFP cam follower?

Testing for vacuum leaks best done with a vacuum gauge, plenty on e bay and a wealth of information on Google as to how to use one.

Look at my previous posts and find the one on the hesitation of my 2.0 TFSI VRS... Almost exactly the same issues as you are seeing, again was showing no fault codes. After lots of searching it was due to excess carbon build up in the intake valves.. There is pics and a full how to in that thread!

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Here is a link to the thread... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/273037-vRS-2%2E0T-FSI---Stuttering-at-idle-and-on-acceleration-up-to-2000-rpm%2E%2E%2E

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^{Hi folks,}

 

^{has anyone used the Ecotek Power Boost foam, any an Octavia VRS, to try and clean up the intake? If so, what are your opinions on it? Also, where did you apply it? Just downstream of the MAF or elsewhere?}

 

^Cheers!

http://www.ecotek.eu/power-boost/

I'm with R8MXX

 

You haven't said what your mileage is but if you've done more than 50,000miles then I'd be getting a borescope into the inlet (via the air temp sensor) and having a look at the valves & airflow splitters.

 

You can buy a 6mm borescope with LEDs for about GBP13 at AliExpress / eBay, etc.

 

You'll need to tie the tumble flaps open (I just use a rubber strap).

Don't rule out a boost leak fella. Those fault codes could easily be throwing you off. I had hesitation in the same rev range with a split hose with no errors.

I'm pretty sure that the fault codes were red herrings.

 

Car has done 60k, anyone got a photo of which hoses to check for leaks? Do you just check them visually? I have also seen many comments relating to faulty diverter values, diaphragm split etc, would this cause the issue?