Not tackled this particular job before so looking for advice and guidance, please.

 

Any shortcuts, gotchas? 

 

Is a spring compressor needed?

 

How long for a competent mechanic?

 

This will be replacing standard suspension (with a broken spring) with standard.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Regards, Mike

 

Hand tool or air gun/battery gun ?

You will need a hub splitter tool but you can use an Alan key

If you are replacing all the suspension it should take you two hours tops but make sure you have more time just incase something happens

If you can if replacing the rears drop the bolts out the shocks and the axel will drop and the springs will pop straight out

Oh and you need a swan neck spanner or a macpherson spanner for the top nut to take off

Hand tool or air gun/battery gun ?

You will need a hub splitter tool but you can use an Alan key

 

 

Ta for advice.  In answer to your questions, probably hand tools; and can you explain how to use an allen key as a ball-joint splitter?

 

Oh and you need a swan neck spanner or a macpherson spanner for the top nut to take off

 

Swan necks I should have; do you know what size?  Would a long socket do instead?

 

What is a Macpherson spanner? I've tried Googling[tm] but results are inconclusive.

 

Do I need a spring compressor?

 

Also, to fit coilovers (not for me) I gather there are a couple of bits needed from the standard shocks.  Do you know what these are, please?

 

Regards, Mike

You don't need to remove any ball joints just have to prise open the hub to release the strut away from the hub

The Mcpherson spanner is just another name for a swan neck spanner mate and its either a 21mm or a 22mm spanner but you will need an alen key to put in to the top of the strut to stop the shaft from turning while you turn the nut or you will never get it off

Oh and regarding the COILIES you need the top mount bearings the top mount that goes on top of the bearings that you tighten the nut on to and then the top plate for the fronts

Rear you need just the top mount and the cover the rear bolts are 18mm if I remember right and the top mount is a 14 mm but as you are using hand tools you will need a 14 mm spanner and some mole grips, mole grips to keep a hold of the shaft and the spanner is to tighten the nut

Shame you ain't up north east area (just a guess as I'm on my phone) as I would have helped

Oh and regarding the COILIES you need the top mount bearings the top mount that goes on top of the bearings that you tighten the nut on to and then the top plate for the fronts

Rear you need just the top mount and the cover the rear bolts are 18mm if I remember right and the top mount is a 14 mm but as you are using hand tools you will need a 14 mm spanner and some mole grips, mole grips to keep a hold of the shaft and the spanner is to tighten the nut

Shame you ain't up north east area (just a guess as I'm on my phone) as I would have helped

 

Perhaps I should shed a little light here

 

I'm in the north west (near Preston) and have a cracked nearside front spring.  There's a nice Brisky in north London who has some low mileage shocks on his Octy and wants to fit Coilies, so the plan is I buy his shocks once he's fitted the Coilies and then fit them to my car.  It has been mooted that I travel down to him, we do a mutual shock upgrade and I come home again.  So if you fancy a trip darn Sarf you would be most welcome :)

 

Just a question about the top mount, bearing, plate & nut needed per side for the Coilies; is there are issue in using these bits from the shocks I'm getting and using the relevant bits from my old shocks on the replacements?

 

Thanks for the help so far & regards, Mike

The general advice is replace old with new while everything is off the car. So new top mounts and bearings as it might be quite a few years when the shocks are off again but if your car isn't knocking or making any noises it should be fine. As for a spring compressor as your just taking the whole strut out and fitting it to yours you would get away without BUT i found to take the drivers side out i did need the spring compressors to get the shock out of the hub because the hub won't go far enough down because of the driveshaft. The passenger side is no bother though. As for the hub splitter i found it a god send. 10 quid from vw or tps and worth every penny imho. Its like an oval shape bit that fits in the gap at the back of the hub. Tap in with a hammer then turn it and it holds the hub apart and makes it easier to get the strut out.

hiya

 

im the brisky in london - actually fitting lowering springs with suspension to suit, not coillies, but no bother.

 

I dont know about the hub splitter that has been mentioned - anyone got a pic or a part number?

You can use a pry bar to open the hub up enough to drop the strut out I used a cold chisel to get it open enough but like I said above you can use an Allen key

OK, the planning moves forward.

 

Which bits from the shock assembly (see piccy) will be needed for the aftermarket springs sebring is fitting?  Mr Haynes' almanac seems to suggest we need to dismantle the shock to remove the top bits (the ones I think are needed).

 

 

This page http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension talks/remove_and_install_suspension_strut_and_wheel_bearing_housing/ talks about using a special tool to remove the driveshaft (see below).  Is this needed?

 

 

And this below is where we need the ball joint splitter:

 

 

 

As ever many thanks and regards, Mike

Trust me you don't need a ball joint splitter and there is no need to remove the drive shaft I have never done this EVER

But the bits you will need are 7,8,9,10 and 11 for the fronts

Trust me you don't need a ball joint splitter and there is no need to remove the drive shaft I have never done this EVER

But the bits you will need are 7,8,9,10 and 11 for the fronts

 

Cheers on the ball joint issue; I'll go find my set of designer crowbars

 

I see your list of bits needed and raise you this; if I remove the nut etc. at the top what stops the spring from Zebedeeing away, never to be seen again by man nor beast?

 

Regards, Mike

Don't remove that nut without having spring compressors on the spring. I wouldn't want to be near that incident!!

You can take number 11 and 10 off then you need spring compressors before you take off number 9

Yeah the very top nut will be removed already as you need to take that off plus top plate to get the strut out. I was reading it like its already removed from the car. So then no9 to seperate spring.

Thanks guys, that clears things up a bit.

 

Due to unavoidable and non-negotiable circumstances (aka spouses) Kaz and I won't be able to exercise our male bonding rituals this Saturday with a mutually-satisfying shock swap; we'll both have to resort to doing things on our own so wish us luck!

 

I'll report back on my own (hopefully) non-Zebedee event sometime over the next couple of weeks.

 

Regards, Mike

Good luck lads if you need any more advice don't hesitate to ask