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Couple of questions on my 1.9SDI

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Hey guys,

Few questions relating to my 02 Fabia 1.9SDI Estate. I imagine some of these have been covered before so apologies if so, I did look.

 

First up, it's a bit sluggish, especially on hills. I'm told that sticking in a cone air filter instead of the standard box one will improve things margainally. Is this a) possible, b ) easy and c) worth doing, and if yes to all, do I need to be looking for any cone filters in particular? I've seen them on fleabay for £11.99 but they look cheap...

 

Secondly, my handbrake cable needs tightening a bit. I know people who do it themselves but I'm pretty much a noob; is it simple and worth me attempting or do I just get the garage to do it next time she's in for something else?

 

Also, the right hand side plastic undertray fell off last week (the metal disc things that keep it on were damaged), and the front one is only held on with two screws. Are these worth the effort to get sorted (I've still got the one that fell off) or do I just leave them off once they're off?

 

Finally, is there anything else I can do to improve the oomph for a relatively low cost without increasing my insurance? I know that a turbo-less diesel won't be great but I live in Yorkshire which is made of hills and with just two of us in today it was painful climbing a couple of the hills in North and rural West Yorks.

 

Cheers all.

Edited by alessio92

Hey guys,

Few questions relating to my 02 Fabia 1.9SDI Estate. I imagine some of these have been covered before so apologies if so, I did look.

 

First up, it's a bit sluggish, especially on hills. I'm told that sticking in a cone air filter instead of the standard box one will improve things margainally. Is this a) possible, b ) easy and c) worth doing, and if yes to all, do I need to be looking for any cone filters in particular? I've seen them on fleabay for £11.99 but they look cheap...

 

Secondly, my handbrake cable needs tightening a bit. I know people who do it themselves but I'm pretty much a noob; is it simple and worth me attempting or do I just get the garage to do it next time she's in for something else?

 

Also, the right hand side plastic undertray fell off last week (the metal disc things that keep it on were damaged), and the front one is only held on with two screws. Are these worth the effort to get sorted (I've still got the one that fell off) or do I just leave them off once they're off?

 

Finally, is there anything else I can do to improve the oomph for a relatively low cost without increasing my insurance? I know that a turbo-less diesel won't be great but I live in Yorkshire which is made of hills and with just two of us in today it was painful climbing a couple of the hills in North and rural West Yorks.

 

Cheers all.

First up, it's a bit sluggish, It's an SDi, that's why.

"I'm told that sticking in a cone air filter instead of the standard box one will improve things margainally. Is this a) possible, b ) easy and c) worth doing, and if yes to all, do I need to be looking for any cone filters in particular?" A) I doubt it B )Yes C) No

I've seen them on fleabay for £11.99 but they look cheap... That's because they're crap

Secondly, my handbrake cable needs tightening a bit. I know people who do it themselves but I'm pretty much a noob; is it simple and worth me attempting or do I just get the garage to do it next time she's in for something else? Remove the rear ashtray/ cupholder to access the 13mm (IIRC) nuts, get a Haynes manual and follow the guide in there.

Also, the right hand side plastic undertray fell off last week (the metal disc things that keep it on were damaged), and the front one is only held on with two screws. Are these worth the effort to get sorted (I've still got the one that fell off) or do I just leave them off once they're off? The engine undertray? IMO yes, it's worth sorting as it prevents water and other detrititus being thrown up into the engine bay. Simply use a few self tappers.

Finally, is there anything else I can do to improve the oomph Yes, buy a TDi

As a fellow sdi driver, prepare yourself for hills... Get your speed up at the bottom and get ready to drop down a few gears on the way up! (I live in wales - full of hills) just clean the existing filters - fuel, oil, air - you'd be surprised how much of a difference this makes!

The airbox is exactly the same as on a 130ps TDI, so that's not going to be the problem.

They just are what they are, dependable, economical plodding donkeys. I've done 80 miles in one today. It can move with traffic, and it just about did an overtake at one point.

To be fair, they're better than a lot of none-turbo diesels, I'd have one over a ford 1.8d any day. Would I swap my PD for one? Nope, no chance.

Edited by StevesTruck

The handbrake cable needing tightening could be a sign that one of the rear calipers is partially siezed.

 

The lever on the caliper does not return properly and gives the impression that the cable needs adjusting.

 

SN

  • Author

Cheers all, that's good to know.I appreciate the responses. I knew it wouldn't be quick when I bought it, just didn't realise to what extent! But it keeps my insurance cheap.

 

I've just remembered a few more questions, if I may; sorry for the list. I know it's frowned upon but I'd rather get it all out out in one thread than separate threads that clog the forum. And yes, this car has issues. But it was dirt cheap and most of them are basic things.

 

4. My reversing lights don't work and it's not the bulbs. Everything else in the rear clusters works so I'm wondering if it's a fuse. Is it easy to work out which fuse I need to change?

 

5. The rear window washer jet doesn't work. Or at least water doesn't come out of it. I'm not sure the pipe is disconnected because I'm not finding stray pools of water in my boot or under the car but I can hear the motor working. Any clues as to where the problem might be?

  • Author

The handbrake cable needing tightening could be a sign that one of the rear calipers is partially siezed.

 

The lever on the caliper does not return properly and gives the impression that the cable needs adjusting.

 

SN

How would I check this out?

Cheers all, that's good to know.I appreciate the responses. I knew it wouldn't be quick when I bought it, just didn't realise to what extent! But it keeps my insurance cheap.

 

I've just remembered a few more questions, if I may; sorry for the list. I know it's frowned upon but I'd rather get it all out out in one thread than separate threads that clog the forum. And yes, this car has issues. But it was dirt cheap and most of them are basic things.

 

4. My reversing lights don't work and it's not the bulbs. Everything else in the rear clusters works so I'm wondering if it's a fuse. Is it easy to work out which fuse I need to change?

 

5. The rear window washer jet doesn't work. Or at least water doesn't come out of it. I'm not sure the pipe is disconnected because I'm not finding stray pools of water in my boot or under the car but I can hear the motor working. Any clues as to where the problem might be?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294383-the-mki-fabia-fuse-layout-post-updated-with-bulb-types/

 

Pipe may have popped off somewhere. Try removing the boot trim and have a look if you can see water in the boot area.

If the rear caliper is partially siezed you need to get a look at it.

 

Check that the arm that is connected to the cable is fully off.  There should be a gap of about 1 to 2 mm between it and the stop..

 

The Haynes book of lies is quite good on this area.

 

SN

 

 

4. My reversing lights don't work and it's not the bulbs. Everything else in the rear clusters works so I'm wondering if it's a fuse. Is it easy to work out which fuse I need to change?

 

 

 Pull the reversing light plug off the gearbox switch, push a paper clip or similar to short the connections in the plug, turn ignition on and check if reversing light on. If you are compatent with a multi-meter, you can pull plug from switch, put into reverse and check for continuity across terminals in switch - this will prove if switch problem, this can be tested off car if you remove the switch as pressing the plunger should give continuity.

4. My reversing lights don't work and it's not the bulbs. Everything else in the rear clusters works so I'm wondering if it's a fuse. Is it easy to work out which fuse I need to change?

 

5. The rear window washer jet doesn't work. Or at least water doesn't come out of it. I'm not sure the pipe is disconnected because I'm not finding stray pools of water in my boot or under the car but I can hear the motor working. Any clues as to where the problem might be?

 

The reversing light not working is most likely the switch on the gearbox having failed...a common fault which I've had on my SDI.

 

The rear washer jets is most likely the hose becoming disconnect on the bulkhead in the engine bay...another common mk1 fault.

 

Search the two above items and see what you think?

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For question 5, fill up the screenwash with a strong smelling solution (neat genuine VAG stuff for example) and you'll get a smell cue to help you find any leaks, e.g. into the cabin near the rear nearside seatbelt.  Other possible is that the outlet nozzle is blocked solid. Had this on ours at purchase time, had to pull the nozzle off and unblock painstakingly in the kitchen sink. Lame bit of design from end to end, the rear screenwash system. Too much focus on 'cheap to assemble'.

  • Author

Cheers again all, very kind. I noticed the other day that there is usually a small patch of dripping liquid under the front left corner - ie under where the screenwash tank is, which I hadn't noticed before because of where the car had been parked. This suggests to me that theres a loose or disconnected pipe from the tank maybe? 

If you put the steering on full RH lock and undo the lower torx screws (about 5) of the LH wheel arch liner you can prise the arch liner away and insert a block of wood to hold the liner sufficiently enough to gain access to the lower part of the washer bottle, you will then see that a pipe has come off a connector, just push it back on.

 

This will be the pipe feeding the rear screen washer (I think from memory).

 

Pipes pop off because the right strength of washer fluid has not been used and when it freezes it pushes them off.

 

DB.

Edited by mogwye

I've actually had the plastic top of my washer pump break, causing only the front washer to stop working. Basically there's a plastic pipe splitter that separates the front and rear screen. If this has gone you'll need a new pump regardless of the pump working fine. I bought a cheap pattern pump and only used the plastic splitter...

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