Hi all, my 1.9 Felicia pickup needs a new battery, I was just wondering if anyone recommends a different battery to the standard one as a upgrade if that makes sense?

Problem I have is the pickup is parked most of the week at work and I guess the immobilizer drains the battery combined with the lack of use and it has killed the old battery.

I just fitted an 075 type battery to my 1.9d hatch, there maybe another heavy duty type battery that will go in there like an 069 possibly.

Hi all, my 1.9 Felicia pickup needs a new battery, I was just wondering if anyone recommends a different battery to the standard one as a upgrade if that makes sense?

Don't overdo it. A 5-10% more capacity (in Ah) is still OK, but otherwise you can kill the voltage regulator and it takes more time to charge the battery.

Problem I have is the pickup is parked most of the week at work and I guess the immobilizer drains the battery combined with the lack of use and it has killed the old battery.

Do you have any proof the immobilizer drains the battery? If not, do a thorough check otherwise your new battery will have a shorter life too. I've never heard of an immobilizer draining the battery, most of the time it is a third party device such as an anti-theft system or a radio.

 

Agreed, there shouldn't be any drain to speak of. My brothers truck had an aftermarket head unit that was wired in badly, once that was solved, there was well under a quarter of an Amp of drain with everything off.

once that was solved, there was well under a quarter of an Amp of drain with everything off.

 

A parasitic current of 0.25A is not good.

Everything over 25mA (0.025A) with ignition key off is bad.

 

Probably was that low in reality, I wasn't using the most high tech meter at the time.

Rule of thumb, if the terminal sparks when you connect it, there's too much drain.

Thanks for the replies, not sure if it is the immobiliser it was just a guess, only other things it could be are the radio or the Ryder super smart combi charging system I have for the camping pod, could this be the drain? I have fitted a battery switch so the battery doesn't drain when I'm not using it, but there's still times when I go to start and it's flat.

Tested the battery with a multimeter, it's at 12.6 volts with the engine off, 14.4 with the engine running and drops to 13.6 with the headlights on, is that correct?

Thanks for the replies, not sure if it is the immobiliser it was just a guess,

I thought so...

 

only other things it could be are the radio or the Ryder super smart combi charging system I have for the camping pod, could this be the drain?

This is not a guessing game. You need to measure yourself (or a car electrician) with a multimeter the current drawn from the battery when ignition key is off. If it is greater than 25mA, that's not good. Then you have to disconnect each suspect circuit (remove its fuse) till you find the culprit. Failing to do this test will result in constant annoyance and deterioration of the battery.

 

I have fitted a battery switch so the battery doesn't drain when I'm not using it, but there's still times when I go to start and it's flat.

Oh, well... what kind of switch is that?

Tested the battery with a multimeter, it's at 12.6 volts with the engine off, 14.4 with the engine running and drops to 13.6 with the headlights on, is that correct?

Measuring the voltage on battery immediately after the engine was shut down is not a reliable test. Disconnect the negative terminal and let it settle for an hour. Measure then the voltage. It it is 12.6V you're good. Everything under 12.4V means the battery is dying. With the engine running at 2000 rpm, the voltage on battery should not drop under 13.7V with all original (factory) consumers on, and should not raise over 14.5V with no load.

 

I have just come home and after not using it for a week my battery is also dead... (1.3 mpi pickup) . I do have an aftermarket stereo but that has been off all the time. I was going to blame the immobiliser but from what I've read here the general consensus is that is not the case?

Probably was that low in reality, I wasn't using the most high tech meter at the time.

Rule of thumb, if the terminal sparks when you connect it, there's too much drain.

I'd not take that as gospel. I'd ( as another poster said ) use a meter ( on a high amp range ) to look at connect surge and then (if not an auto range meter), reduce range to find the standing current, which I'd expect to be as low as,if not lower , than 25mA ( .025A).

Graphite- looks normal. but I'd want to look at voltage figures with all electrics ( Main beam/heater/ rear screen /radio etc etc) on at 2000RPM. BUT there's also the battery capacity to retain charge.

ninjacj - I'd be inclined to make sure battery is  fully charged, park up and remove the earth terminal ,before leaving for a length of time. if it's ok then ,you have lerak. If not- then you  have deceased battery.

Edited 19 July, 201510 yr by VWD

The battery should be fine ever if it is parked for a long time like 2 months. Maybe the battery is old or it is getting discharged by surface charge if there is any acid or grease left on the case of the battery, Try to clean the battery case, check that the inner lights maybe don't have a bad switch or somthing else is draining the battery like the radio or something similar. The diesel should also have a 60 Ah battery to start normally. Also you can take the battery for a load test and they will tell you in what kind of state is in.

Resurrecting this old

Need new battery too and i can't get clear characteristics : in user's manual, shop manual nothing; on website i found different types: from 53ah/ 520a , 200x170x160 mm to 60ah/600a 242x175x190 mm....

So as always i need suggestions 😁

Can you not just measure your existing one?  The capacity should be on a label, I would have thought..

10 hours ago, Burchy said:

Can you not just measure your existing one?  The capacity should be on a label, I would have thought..

Yes but i dont if it's the right ones (because isn't an "original" one)and as Ricardo said above dont want to overdo or underdo

 this is the actual battery, 74ah 640a, size around 175x272x190mm......

Edited 29 November, 20196 yr by Zimo

I recommend a Bosch battery (series S3, S4, or S5) of 70-77 Ah depending on your budget.

Their dimension is 278x175x175 up to 278x175x190.

Last two batteries lasted 5-6 years each given the electrical system was in top condition and I didn't abuse it.

2 hours ago, RicardoM said:

I recommend a Bosch battery (series S3, S4, or S5) of 70-77 Ah depending on your budget.

Their dimension is 278x175x175 up to 278x175x190.

Last two batteries lasted 5-6 years each given the electrical system was in top condition and I didn't abuse it.

And what about the starting current power? ( don't know if it's the right words in english). I mean the "axx" after the ah number.

 

This should be fine

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.it%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254139463158

Edited 29 November, 20196 yr by Zimo

The cold cranking current (CCA) required to start an engine in cold weather  varies from vehicle to vehicle and is dependent on the engine size, circuit resistance, temperature, engine oil viscosity and the accessory loads.

 

600 CCA is a a standard option for many cars, including yours.

On 29/11/2019 at 21:20, RicardoM said:

The cold cranking current (CCA) required to start an engine in cold weather  varies from vehicle to vehicle and is dependent on the engine size, circuit resistance, temperature, engine oil viscosity and the accessory loads.

 

600 CCA is a a standard option for many cars, including yours.

Wait !so i ahould buy a 74ah up to 660a ? Is it right

This maybe is too much?

If dimension wise fits your space, buy it.

33 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

If dimension wise fits your space, buy it.

I'm waiting to recive it!

Battery replaced and everything fits well. It is smaller than the old one but more powerfull! I would think this can help also the hot

start problems , we will see.

 

As a side question: does the alternator recharge more the battery when , for example, using the lights at night?

1 hour ago, Zimo said:

As a side question: does the alternator recharge more the battery when , for example, using the lights at night?

The alternator is charging the battery with a current depending on battery capacity, engine rpm, and charge percent. The more discharged the battery, the higher the current. As a simplistic rule of thumb, the charging current (in Amps) is 1/10 from the battery capacity. The battery charging current is NOT proportional with electrical loads. Look at it this way: the battery is also a load for the alternator. The battery acts as a reserve of current when the engine is not running, or when the engine runs at idle with a high electrical load. Idling at night when cold with the window heater/air con/lights/radio/ etc. on will discharge the battery. Opposite, long journeys with high rpm will charge massively the battery, including BUT NOT PROPORTIONAL with the electrical load.

I was asking this because with the old battery:

Start in the morning is good and going to work with no electric load apart from stereo.

When left work start is some kind of more difficult and i need to light up lights going back home.Then again in the morning start is good.