Misfiring cylinder one

[Avante]

http://imgur.com/Q3zR02g

http://imgur.com/qNTNp7y

http://imgur.com/P82MHf0

http://imgur.com/p0IgVFl

[Avante]

Sorry for posting links, the image host I usually use had IP banned me for some reason .. Is image 4 the fixing that secures the EGR pipe that leads to the intake? The one people say is difficult to remove? Seems rather easy to get to to me.

And is image two the engine coolant sensor I was recommend to replace?

[Breezy_Pete]

I think there is some variation in some EGR-related features between different engine codes on the 1.4 16v engines, and over time, leading to slightly different degrees of difficulty to access some bits.

 

Image two is a nice shot of the oil pressure switch (note, just one wire, not two) not the coolant temp sensor.  I'll pop out and try to get an image of mine. It's at the front edge of the black plastic housing that your fourth pic shows the back edge of.

Here you go, you can even see it with the engine cover still on, just:

 

 

Access isn't all that peachy, and you may find that the connector release mechanism is pointing in an unfavourable direction for reaching, but you may be able to rotate the whole sensor/connector to improve that, or pull out the plastic retaining clip and pull the whole thing, sensor plus connector, out, and release the connector when it's more accessible.  Coolant will leak all over the place, even if you diligently drain it via the tap on the bottom rad hose first, in my experience.

 

BTW, the injector pictured in your first link seems remarkably oily?/fluidy/grubby. Are the other three the same?

[Avante]

Thanks Wino, and where would I find the map sensor? May go halfords get some brake and carb cleaner and try clean that metal pipe, may also need to pick up a screw driver set to remove those 4 tb screws.

[Avante]

No they aren't, only the second is like that which is why I'm considering giving them a clean, but can't afford a injector puller at the moment, £40 for one.

[Breezy_Pete]

MAP sensor is on the driver's-side end of the inlet manifold. 4-way connector.

 

There are a couple of locating pegs on the TB which can catch out the unwary (in my experience!). Once all four screws are out, it may still seem to be firmly attached.  The locating pegs and their 'receiving holes' corrode together a little and may require a reasonably firm straight-up pull to free the TB, if it's never been off before. Beware of stressing the wiring if you are not unplugging it.

[Breezy_Pete]

Didn't know there was such a thing as an injector puller.  They can be tricky, but I've always managed with just 'pulling'.

[Avante]

Didn't know there was such a thing as an injector puller. They can be tricky, but I've always managed with just 'pulling'.

I could give it a go, but consider its a ball ache if I break one off inside of rather do it properly.I've never pulled one before so not so confident in myself with it. Could give it a blast though.

[Breezy_Pete]

No they aren't, only the second is like that which is why I'm considering giving them a clean, but can't afford a injector puller at the moment, £40 for one.

It almost has to be fuel, that wetness/grubbiness? Does it smell of petrol near there? Maybe a damaged o-ring where it seals into the fuel rail?

[Breezy_Pete]

Searching "injector puller" on ebay, seems to yield only results relating to diesel engines?? I've never had a diesel, so don't know how hard it its to pull them, but check that what you're looking at isn't for a diesel application.

[Avante]

I wouldn't be too sure, I've not long started with all this car business. I'm 23 and only just learned how an engine works (still clueless as to how diesel works ha). It could be a factor but the main issue is it only ever goes into limp mode while idled for a couple minutes, surely if anything to do with fuel it'll happen at any time?

[Avante]

I'll go out and check in a minute, I'll try get a better picture of the injector heads as well.

[Breezy_Pete]

I wouldn't be too sure, I've not long started with all this car business. I'm 23 and only just learned how an engine works (still clueless as to how diesel works ha). It could be a factor but the main issue is it only ever goes into limp mode while idled for a couple minutes, surely if anything to do with fuel it'll happen at any time?

Sorry, I've been unclear.

I'm not saying your symptoms are fuelling related, I'm just wondering why/how that injector looks wet on the outside; and if it is fuel, it shouldn't be leaking like that, and could do with being fixed for safety reasons (obviously). 

[Avante]

Sorry, I've been unclear.

I'm not saying your symptoms are fuelling related, I'm just wondering why/how that injector looks wet on the outside; and if it is fuel, it shouldn't be leaking like that, and could do with being fixed for safety reasons (obviously).

Oh it's one on my list of plenty to take a look at already lol - MOT is due this month though and in its current state its headed for a fail, so I've got to prioritise my repairs specifically to pass the MOT, after that I'm free to explore a little. Limp mode being my first priority, along the way I'll do a engine flush and replace oil and fuel filters etc, ran it on superunleaded since I bought it so hopefully that's cleared it out a bit as the previous owners were elderly and I can imagine it wasn't been ran on super or even looked after properly. Ran injector cleaner through it once, keeping a close eye on injector heads to look for anything resembling what's happened to my gunked up one. Brakes need fitting still, couldn't get the wheel off as don't have locking nut socket. Apart from that I can't really think of anything else it'll fail on, apart from the coolant leak which I'll sort, and the leak from the ball joint on one wheel, another cheap repair. Then I'll put it through to see what else fails, or hopefully it passes lol. Edited 6 July, 2015 by Avante

[Avante]

Right I have the torx screw bits now, I'll give it a clean out today. Does the throttle body need to be tightened to a certain degree?

[Breezy_Pete]

I think the screws are going into plastic so go gently. Spec is something hard to measure like 2Nm. When re-fitting, be careful to get them going back into the original threads that they've cut, or you might strip the plastic.

[Avante]

Alright sweet, I've got the tb off now, looks pretty gunked up down there, as does the pipe from the EGR, I've got a cloth, brake cleaner and carb cleaner. How do I go about this?

[Avante]

I don't spray carb cleaner directly into the pipe? Seems pretty awkward, not sure how I'll poke it through without making it worse unless I remove the whole thing in which case seems like a pain in the arse.

[Breezy_Pete]

Got a vacuum cleaner you could use to suck away lumps of debris as you free them? That would help with cleaning the EGR exit point.

 

Don't try to move the throttle plate on its spindle, just clean as much muck off the underside as possible. 

[Avante]

There wasn't so much as lumps, just the side walls of the pipe were coated, if there was a blockage, it wasn't at the top end of the pipe, would much rather take the whole pipe off but with all the angles it seems itd be quite difficult. Got a few pictures as I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, there wasn't much difference so I guess I should look into the EGR valve see if that's choked up. I found my engine coolant temp sensor and decided to leave it for now, don't want to drain coolant until ive got new coolant as I'm using Wynn's rad seal, got a "slight" leak (700ml every couple of days) lol. Where would I find the map sensor to clean it with brake cleaner indirectly?

[Breezy_Pete]

The pipe at the hot end, nor the EGR valve itself, tend to accumulate much soot on the petrol engines, cos it's all so hot at that end, it just burns off. Only where it meets oil mist from the breather system, just at that exit point, does it tend to 'settle'.

 

Do you know where the coolant is leaking?

[rum4mo]

Quote:- "Image two is a nice shot of the oil pressure switch (note, just one wire, not two) not the coolant temp sensor.  I'll pop out and try to get an image of mine. It's at the front edge of the black plastic housing that your fourth pic shows the back edge of."

 

I was going to suggest that image two is a nice shot of the very version of coils that were causing issues - ELDOR is a good/reliable brand of coils when manufactured in old style Europe, ELDOR being manufactured in Turkey seems not to have been a very good idea.  For the record, so far in 106K miles and 13 years of use, wife's 1.4BBY engine fitted with ELDOR coils not made in Turkey, has only had two coils fails and in each case I have replaced them with ELDOR coils not made in Turkey - I initially tried a BREMI coil as a replacement but it only lasted a few months even though it was NOS from EBAY. Just giving you some food for thought - that is all.

[rum4mo]

Have you had a look at the point where the pipe from the EGR valve connects to the TB or its I/F plate, from my experience it is here that the worst gunging up occurs and not actually inside the steel EGR valve pipe - I thing that I had to poke something in from the outside to open that pipe port area up. With the TB lifted up you can do that without dropping anything down into the manifold, by the way, you should find that there are brass/steel ferrules in the body of the manifold to give some strength for screwing the TB securing screws into and the gasket is a rubber O-ring so should be reusable.

 

You have been told already where to find the MAP sensor, so look at the LHS (driver's) side of the inlet manifold, you should see something fixed into it using again small maybe torx headed screws (2-off) with an electrical connector on it.

Edited 7 July, 2015 by rum4mo

[Avante]

The pipe at the hot end, nor the EGR valve itself, tend to accumulate much soot on the petrol engines, cos it's all so hot at that end, it just burns off. Only where it meets oil mist from the breather system, just at that exit point, does it tend to 'settle'.

Do you know where the coolant is leaking?

Bottom right corner of the radiator I believe, I know this is where the pipes are, I'm hoping it isn't pipes now I've bought Wynn's though. I'll have a better look when I have time to get my bumper off for a proper look.

[Avante]

Have you had a look at the point where the pipe from the EGR valve connects to the TB or its I/F plate, from my experience it is here that the worst gunging up occurs and not actually inside the steel EGR valve pipe - I thing that I had to poke something in from the outside to open that pipe port area up. With the TB lifted up you can do that without dropping anything down into the manifold, by the way, you should find that there are brass/steel ferrules in the body of the manifold to give some strength for screwing the TB securing screws into and the gasket is a rubber O-ring so should be reusable.

You have been told already where to find the MAP sensor, so look at the LHS (driver's) side of the inlet manifold, you should see something fixed into it using again small maybe torx headed screws (2-off) with an electrical connector on it.

What's I/F sorry? I removed the throttle body to clean the seals and I cleaned the metal pipe as well as I could, which pipe was you speaking of? Have I cleaned the wrong pipe entirely then?