Misfiring cylinder one

[rum4mo]

Maybe slightly ironic that that stuff pitches up in Europe as most engines are changing to direct injection.

[Avante]

I have carb clear aerosol I believe it is? In a compressed can. How would I go about doing this?

[Breezy_Pete]

I keep meaning to have a go at this myself, as it looks exciting. This sort of thing.

 

I would recommend an outdoor location if you decide to have a go at this.

 

You could do a much more limited clean by just hosing the carb cleaner into each end of the injector without energising it, but that probably wouldn't shift any really critical build-ups if there were any in the valve/valve seat area within the injector.

 

From personal painful experience, I would thoroughly recommend some sort of eye protection when hosing anything with carb cleaner.

[Avante]

Dude, I've already had the stuff in my eye too lol, not plesant. This looks fun and probably the most efficient way, fairly cheap to do, but I won't be doing it today lol. I've a feeling it's not fuel injector related my cylinder misfire problem.

[Avante]

As said before I'm considering an engine flush, but after a little research, hearing it can do more harm than good worried me. I'm now unsure whether to do a flush or not, I'm unsure if the car has been run on 98RON by previous owners, and I'm also unsure what oil has been used. Is it worth a shot or will I just uncover more problems doing so.

[Breezy_Pete]

Here's something worth checking, it seems. Unclear to me why only one cylinder would be affected, perhaps indicating which pot has lowest compression?

 

Wouldn't bother with a flush myself, regular oil/filter changes with good-quality oil are all you need.  Have a look down the hole that the filler neck screws into for a look at how mucky or otherwise the engine is internally.

Get a photo if you can.

[Avante]

I have 5liters of 10w-40 and a new oil filter ready for a oil change when I have the time to do it, need to pick up a socket piece to get the filter off.

My standard alloys (bad condition) strangely have aftermarket locking bolts on the wheels and haven't provided me with the socket for it (forgot to ask when buying the car), how do you recommend I get them off? I have a new set of locking nuts so they haven't got to come off in one piece. It's like 3 holes in a triangle shape on a circular bolt with a slip disk.

[rum4mo]

Why not stick with 5W-40 oil to correct VAG spec?  You can buy bits to remove the locking wheel bolts, maybe from Halfords or Screwfix - could be a Laser Tools set. Maybe get a picture of the locking bolt heads as they don't sound to much like genuine VAG ones, really just to make sure that they are not VAG ones as if they are, a friendly VAG garage would charge not too much to remove them with their master set of keys and fit your new ones.

 

Edit:- £17 at Halfords, maybe Google "locking wheel bolt removal"  same for "locking wheel nut removal"

Edited 12 July, 2015 by rum4mo

[Avante]

5? I'm sure Haynes says 10w-40 for the bbz?

Yeah I thought about that, but I'm going to concentrate on getting the engine sorted first, got a mate coming over tomorrow to look it over, he said sounds like its cam position sensor?

I'll get a picture in the morning.

[Avante]

I checked Haynes again. It says 5w-40/20w-50 .. Doesn't that mean I can use 10w-40 or am I to go buy 5w-40 lol

[Breezy_Pete]

Use the 10w40 now, change it for 5w40 as next winter approaches.  That way you haven't wasted money on oil you don't use, and it'll encourage you to do another change relatively soon, which is usually a good thing on an engine that's new to you and may be mucky. The difference is only in how viscous it will be at low temperature cold-starts, which won't really be happening for several months anyway.

[Avante]

Appreciate it wino, thanks mate.

[Avante]

As requested, a picture of my locking nuts .. Aftermarket I believe?

Edit; usually has a slip disk on it, broke it off to try wack a socket piece over it, no luck.

Edited 13 July, 2015 by Avante

[rum4mo]

I'm thinking about that type of security bolt - remember Ford used that type years ago, so maybe not one of the current popular types! Humm, maybe someone else will have a more useful answer to that !  To me, having experienced living with a few types of these, the previous commonly used splined head seemed the best type, though only mildly secure!  I think that VAG currently use MAGARD type of bolts, which do seem very secure but highly suspect in terms of "will they come off in a year's time" - which does not bother me as I change wheels summer/winter as well as cleaning brakes at that time.

 

Maybe time to check the removal tools from Laser Tools etc for size/range.

Edited 13 July, 2015 by rum4mo

[sepulchrave]

Just buy four new standard wheel bolts and pop down to any fastfit place and they'll remove them and fit the new standard bolts in their place, cheaper, quicker and easier than buying the special tools and playing guessing games.

[Avante]

Yeah I'll go see how much they want for removing the old ones, I should have done the same with my oil change lol, they wanted £15 for it, probably spent more than that on sockets lol

Oil change today, went well for my first change lol. Use pans and jugs haha

Edit: looked into my coolant leak problem, and at the bottom right of the radiator, where the pipe connects to it, there appears to be like a white plastic plate in between the pipe and the rad that clips in by the looks of it, the leak appears to be coming from there.

Edited 13 July, 2015 by Avante

[Avante]

How do I go about turning the oil indicator on the dash off?

[Breezy_Pete]

With ignition off, press and hold in the trip reset button. Switch on ignition and wait for display to change to - - -.

Done.

 

Can't quite picture what you mean about the radiator connection, but there is an o-ring inside a push-fit connection that may be in need of replacement.

 

Did you see this thread about a misfire on a BBZ, hopefully not relevant to yours...

[Avante]

I hope it isn't too, also where is this trip reset button?

[Breezy_Pete]

The black plastic peg sticking through the clocks just next to where you're seeing the word 'OIL'.

 

Unless you're talking about a warning light instead?

[Avante]

Oh right yeah lol.

[Avante]

This is where the leak is coming from - I can see where you mean the o-ring may need replacing, can you see the white panel I was talking of in one of my previous posts, its all wet there too but could be dripping down to it.

[Avante]

Possible causes?

Edited 16 July, 2015 by Avante

[Avante]

Getting bolts welded onto my locking nuts today for £20, finally getting my wheels off and replacing disc brakes and pads today - that leak looks major though, anyone got any information so I can do some searching?

[Avante]

Finally, they're off!

Brakes and pads tomorrow, just need a g-clamp apparently. Any idea if they the twist ones or the push ones? (I've no idea what he means by this, I presume the springs that hold the pads to the discs?)

Edit; sorry I keep updating as I go along, I should probably get this thread moved to projects lol.

Edited 16 July, 2015 by Avante