The front pistons need pushed in by some means, a G-clamp would work, if you have rear disc brakes, I'm afraid that you will need a proper piston retractor /rewind tool - Halfords etc. If you buy the proper tool, it can also be used to press back in the front pistons by using a bit of imagination!

 

Oh bother now you need to add "sorting wheels out" to your list of things to do!  Haynes manual would help you out a bit?

 

Clean that oil off first to see where it is coming from - clean oil = gearbox oil.

Edited 16 July, 201510 yr by rum4mo

It was on my list anyway, I have a friend who'd sell me his 16" vrs for £100, need refurbing at some point.

Thanks I'll head to halfrauds now see what they got.

I'll clean it up today, glad you said this cause I'd have the wheels off before I realised.

One of my front caliper bolts is just spinning, its not the bolt threads either as both bolts only go in tightly on the bottom one. Anything I can do without another costly expense?

Got a bolt in for the time being but it will need sorting out - what are my best options? I've looked about and been told to go to a garage to get them to tap and die it?

Possible rear caliper change too .. Seen any this bad before?

I think there is more brake on the floor than on that disc lol

Edited 17 July, 201510 yr by Avante

Rear discs brakes tend to be under used so they end up like that, aided by what looks like callipers looking like they are past their best.

 

Stripped front calliper mounting bolts, seems to happen to a few people, as you might have worked out, the threads in the hub assembly have been stripped. I think that there are kits out there to repair this sort of damage - the hole(s) need drilling out, threaded insert fitting and if the thread on the mounting bolts is okay they can be reused, though I'd always replace them with new mounting bolts. The cost of these kits is quite high for someone to use once only so I'd reckon that you need to find somewhere that holds and uses that kit and pay them to sort this out - are any of the hub threaded holes okay, might be smart to get them all drilled out and inserts fitted - VAG indie??

 

Edit:- you really seem to have bought a "project" car, could be you will end up feeding it more money than it is worth after sorting out, I'm sorry to say!

 

Edit Again:- maybe that was a bit strong, we are all entitled to our own dreams/aspirations - I've done worse!!

Edited 17 July, 201510 yr by rum4mo

You're confusing value with cost mo.

 

There is no better way to learn the difference between the two than through experience.

 

Keep it up Avante, a thread repair kit can be had for as little as a tenner these days. Those rear calipers may have to go though.

This is what I'd consider my first car - I was unwilling to spend any money on my last car (astra G 8v) so I understand I'll spend more on it than what's its worth, but I love the car and every part repaired or upgraded is a learning curve for me, skills I'll definitely use in my future.

At least people can refer to this thread for fabia problems if new to cars like myself, maybe change the thread name eventually?

Keep it up mate your doing well! nothing like diving in and having a crack at it, yes the first time you may make mistakes which cost, but in future it will be cheaper as you will have learnt from your mistakes.

 

On the topic of EGR's, i did write a guide on this if you are still having an EGR fault code

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/357611-14-16v-aub-egr-service/

 

it is for the 1.4 16V AUB, so an earlier version of your engine, but i hope it helps.

 

 

All the best mate

EGR isnt flashing up on Vagcom mate. Plus I've done this already now guide would've been good about a week or two ago lol. 18049 is my issue and I can't find out what's causing it. Thanks though

18049 is an aircon fault.

What's the status of the misfire? Any change?

I could lend you a compression tester if you want to rule that out.

16685 sorry, mixed the codes up. Seems fine if I keep the car idled at about 2k revs.

All that's left is to seal radiator leak and sort my misfire problem, seems like my gearbox is leaking too but nothing major - then gonna get it into a MOT, with a bit of luck it'll pass, will I need to reattach the thermal flap in the engine cover for emissions purposes?

Nope, shouldn't affect emissions.

I swapped fuel injectors over today and it sounds like the misfire has jumped cylinders. No fault codes given yet though. May consider making that DIY injector cleaner, before considering buying new injectors.

MOT test is tomorrow, I'll get pictures of the new brakes - got tyres sorted for new alloys.

Use Wynn's radiator seal and my leak appears to have gone! Although I accidentally filled my expansion tank too much. Two days off work to get everything sorted, I need a new pollen and fuel filter too, how easy is fuel filter to replace?

Unless you have hay fever (or regularly transport someone who does) the pollen filter may be best just removed?

 

Oh and that does sound like a dodgy injector.

I do suffer quite badly from hayfever but usually worse during the start of summer - good news is MOT has passed, just advisory on rear brakes (caliper piston seizing as I thought, little brake cleaner got it up to standard, was only pulling about 30 on rear right wheel lol, should be about 130 apparently.

Replacing the fuel filter could be easy, though wife's Polo 1.4 BBY is just over 106K miles and heading for 13 years old - and has still got its original fuel filter. I have got a filter and bought a new regulator, so that filter/regulator assembly is available for using along with a "connection repair kit" - just in case of trouble, but for any number of reasons that job is still to get done, though as her new car is now in UK, perhaps not done by me!  You might have gathered that VAG do not include replacing petrol filters in any of their cars service schedules - strange but true.

Edited 24 July, 201510 yr by rum4mo

Yay for the MOT pass! :sun:

 

I had a quick look last night at some syringes I've got, with regard to that injector cleaning set-up on youtube, but they're too big. I do have a spare fuel rail off a 3-pot, so could probably create something by plumbing a can of carb cleaner into that somehow. May have a go this weekend, and if it works, can send to you?  Could be handy for comparing spray patterns, but only of 3 injectors at a time! Might need to find some electrical connectors too. :think:

Did you shave a bit off a o-ring so it fits easier?

The syringes are too big, not the injector + o-ring combo.  Waggling around like a little thing in a big hole.

 

Just found a smaller syringe in my desk drawer actually, will take home and try tonight.  Theoretically it'll take a big shave of the o-ring to fit, but may be do-able.

That or a lot of effort getting it in without breaking the injector lol. Let me know how it goes, I heard its the 6ml syringe?

 

That's a start.

 

Bit of spit as lube on the o-ring plus a good push.  Pins of connector are much more accessible than I'd remembered too, looking quite amenable to a couple of loudspeaker type 0.11" crimp connectors, maybe?  Will see what I can dig up.

 

Injector pictured is AZQ 3-pot type, but o-ring is the same size as BBY/BBZ ones, so I guess they'd fit just the same.

 

That's a start.

 

Bit of spit as lube on the o-ring plus a good push.  Pins of connector are much more accessible than I'd remembered too, looking quite amenable to a couple of loudspeaker type 0.11" crimp connectors, maybe?  Will see what I can dig up.

 

Injector pictured is AZQ 3-pot type, but o-ring is the same size as BBY/BBZ ones, so I guess they'd fit just the same.

Ok, now I understand your idea, but most professional places use 100ml or larger burettes as fuel receivers. Maybe it just means they can measure over multiple injector cycles but I suspect it's to not finish up with fuel all over the workshop!

No, it's not quite what you're imagining. The syringe is just being used as an adaptor to connect the injector - either way round - to the can of carb cleaner, not for measuring. See here, as previously linked in #153. Skip the first 3 mins if time is tight.

No, it's not quite what you're imagining. The syringe is just being used as an adaptor to connect the injector - either way round - to the can of carb cleaner, not for measuring. See here, as previously linked in #153. Skip the first 3 mins if time is tight.

Ah ok, I thought you were testing the injectors, not just cleaning them.