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which fuel is best?


vzo25

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Personally my experience of running Millers Diesel Additive has taken me from reasonably skeptical to confident of the benefits.

I drive a pretty consistent commute of motorway, dual and A-road. Without the additive I struggle to sit at 30mph in 4th. I also see an extra 2-3 MPG across a tank (~65mpg generally, brimming tank), and the engine runs very clean, which was even noted by the MOT tester, not bad for 120,000, 2002 model.

I'll be looking to get some Diesel Rhino and see how that runs next.

Back to OP, buy supermarket diesel, and add an additive (like millers or Rhino) amd you'll save money on your tank and benefit for it.

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Personally my experience of running Millers Diesel Additive has taken me from reasonably skeptical to confident of the benefits.

I drive a pretty consistent commute of motorway, dual and A-road. Without the additive I struggle to sit at 30mph in 4th. I also see an extra 2-3 MPG across a tank (~65mpg generally, brimming tank), and the engine runs very clean, which was even noted by the MOT tester, not bad for 120,000, 2002 model.

I'll be looking to get some Diesel Rhino and see how that runs next.

Back to OP, buy supermarket diesel, and add an additive (like millers or Rhino) amd you'll save money on your tank and benefit for it.

Interesting reading that.

Ive used morrison fuel for years as its only a mile from home.

I get a consistant 67mpg 5 days a week

Then i try this bp ultimate and get 71mpg.

Morrisons i get slightly more to tank and its cheaper.

Yes i think its all in my head.

But to notice that much diff in mpg. And better running means there must be something in it surely...

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Used Sainsburys diesel for well over a year and the car runs fine on it with a good return on mpg. It's one of the cheapest and you get nectar points.

Tried BP ultimate and Vpower and not noticed a blind bit of difference... other than feeling slightly ripped off lol

If you do plenty of motorway and A-road driving, cruise control will be the best mpg improvement you can get, not different fuel.

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Have to agree 100% fuel economy is mainly down to the right foot, all this posh sounding name fuel and additives are mainly fantasy island placebo effect.

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Had to pull this up.

Cruise control is not an efficient way to drive. You should be gaining speed down hill and bleeding it up hill if you're properly hyper miling.

Can't see where anyone has said it is an "efficient" way to drive?

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Supermarket fuel is thought by a lot of people to cause EGR valve issues.

My experience is I ran mine on Morrisons for 20k and experienced EGR problems myself (going into limp mode at motorway speeds).

I binned the egr and 5k on it seems perfectly happy.

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Supermarket fuel is thought by a lot of people to cause EGR valve issues.

My experience is I ran mine on Morrisons for 20k and experienced EGR problems myself (going into limp mode at motorway speeds).

I binned the egr and 5k on it seems perfectly happy.

 

Bloody superstition, it's the EGR valve not supermarket fuel which causes EGR valve issues as you've correctly noted.

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Supermarket fuel is thought by a lot of people to cause EGR valve issues.

My experience is I ran mine on Morrisons for 20k and experienced EGR problems myself (going into limp mode at motorway speeds).

I binned the egr and 5k on it seems perfectly happy.

Egr was cleaned and then deleted out.about 10k ago its a simple job to do.

As already mentioned its the valve thats causes probs and not fuel.

Im still curious to find out if more expensive fuel gives better returns thats all.

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Can't see where anyone has said it is an "efficient" way to drive?

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Really

cruise control will be the best mpg improvement you can get

 

"Best MPG improvement" has nothing whatsoever to do with efficiency then? ****, could have fooled me.

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Really

"Best MPG improvement" has nothing whatsoever to do with efficiency then? ****, could have fooled me.

Cruise control is more consistent driving which alludes to exactly what you have said in my eyes.

I can see your obviously a regular poster and not just a troll looking for an argument... yawn.

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Personally my experience of running Millers Diesel Additive has taken me from reasonably skeptical to confident of the benefits.

I'll be looking to get some Diesel Rhino and see how that runs next.

Back to OP, buy supermarket diesel, and add an additive (like millers or Rhino) amd you'll save money on your tank and benefit for it.

General concensus is that Millers and Rhino are basically 2-EHN with cheap bulkers to fill the bottle, resulting in higher dosage rates at increased cost. 2-EHN can be bought online and I add 60ml per 40 litre tank.

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General concensus is that Millers and Rhino are basically 2-EHN with cheap bulkers to fill the bottle, resulting in higher dosage rates at increased cost. 2-EHN can be bought online and I add 60ml per 40 litre tank.

 

...and I maintain that it doesn't make any bloody difference at all to your low-revving, low-powered oil burners, there is plenty of time for full combustion to take place even at peak engine speeds. So there.

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...and I maintain that it doesn't make any bloody difference at all to your low-revving, low-powered oil burners, there is plenty of time for full combustion to take place even at peak engine speeds. So there.

Meow.

My tractor plods along just fine.

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Meow.

My tractor plods along just fine.

 

Not meow, massive irritation at the total lack of any technical or scientific basis for snake-oil superstition present in this thread (and many others).

 

You need a reasonable hypothesis which explains why you believe that something makes a positive difference, you don't just 'feel it in your water'.

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Not meow, massive irritation at the total lack of any technical or scientific basis for snake-oil superstition present in this thread (and many others).

 

You need a reasonable hypothesis which explains why you believe that something makes a positive difference, you don't just 'feel it in your water'.

I feel it in my fuel tank.

Im not about to make graphs up (havent got time).

As my opening thread. Was querying this.as a mechanic friend told me about a car he had been working on that had major work needed doing. Due to a poor batch of fuel.

So thats why i asked what other peoples choice of fuel was.

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Not meow, massive irritation at the total lack of any technical or scientific basis for snake-oil superstition present in this thread (and many others).

You need a reasonable hypothesis which explains why you believe that something makes a positive difference, you don't just 'feel it in your water'.

Technical and scientific basis? That's what they print on the bottle isn't it?

:-D

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General concensus is that Millers and Rhino are basically 2-EHN with cheap bulkers to fill the bottle, resulting in higher dosage rates at increased cost. 2-EHN can be bought online and I add 60ml per 40 litre tank.

Worth knowing, thanks for the tip.

 

Not meow, massive irritation at the total lack of any technical or scientific basis for snake-oil superstition present in this thread (and many others).

 

You need a reasonable hypothesis which explains why you believe that something makes a positive difference, you don't just 'feel it in your water'.

Then buy a bottle, get some dyno time, run it and report back.

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...and I maintain that it doesn't make any bloody difference at all to your low-revving, low-powered oil burners, there is plenty of time for full combustion to take place even at peak engine speeds. So there.

http://papers.sae.org/981364/

Bit of reading as the full paper with test results can be proof read on the page - Less engine wear, reduced engine deposits, possibly less wear on injectors (thats what I read by less flow). Even though it apparently upsets you that some people want to uses additive - I think that I will continue.

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http://papers.sae.org/981364/

Bit of reading as the full paper with test results can be proof read on the page - Less engine wear, reduced engine deposits, possibly less wear on injectors (thats what I read by less flow). Even though it apparently upsets you that some people want to uses additive - I think that I will continue.

 

I don't care what you do, I've said before that you're not harming your engine and that it's your time and money that you're wasting.

 

However I do care what people believe, and that link you just provided tells me just how far you are from understanding the difference between contemporary PD and CR diesels and the ancient tech 11.1 Litre yankee truck engines cited in that paper.

 

Two words: Fuel Atomisation.

 

Droplets of fuel injected at low pressures in big old diesel engines burn very slowly because they are large, Cetane number therefore becomes relevant because it will speed up the rate at which these droplets can burn.

 

Not relevant in small PD and CR diesels because of the very high injection pressures and the correspondingly fine atomisation.

 

If you're going to quote obsolete studies as contemporary fact you need to be sure they're applicable, you must compare apples with apples.

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That's not how science works, you do experiments to prove a positive assertion, not a negative.

Only if you're writing the title to a paper. Plenty of papers are written on the basis of negative assertion, there's a damn industry on it for god's sake.

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Only if you're writing the title to a paper. Plenty of papers are written on the basis of negative assertion, there's a damn industry on it for god's sake.

 

Only on telly, Mythbusters is one I can think of off the top of my head.

 

To do an experiment you produce a plausible hypothesis, i.e. 'The addition of 2-EHN to Derv detectably reduces engine wear and internal deposition in VW 1.9 litre PD engines', you then design an experiment you hope will prove your hypothesis, if it doesn't prove it then your hypothesis has failed and you publish the paper showing the negative outcome. The paper gathers dust for all eternity and is cited occasionally noting the failure. Your hypothesis has to be strong enough and have enough merit to attract funding for the experiment.

 

I don't need to prove that increasing the Cetane number beyond a certain minimum value will have no measurable effect upon the performance and longevity of a basic automotive diesel engine because it is 'a known' and can be easily proved using basic calculations or a simple computer model. This is how engineering is done, we don't build stuff hoping it'll work, we build something we know will work, then we test it and modify it as necessary.

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Is there any additives you can put into diesel to help with the smoke and sooting? I doubt there is a its unburnt fuel but just curious.

I'd SUGGEST you read page 168 ( in my handbook) headed FUEL Additives. In short Skoda say YOU SHOULD NOT IN ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ADD THESE.

As for fuel - years ago I had a Golf van, which ran better on supermarket stuff than garage prime. More recent, our firm ran Ford diesels- one bloke swore blind that Shell super gave him more revs through the range, but i've tried both in a range of vans and found no difference. Present motor prefers basic no nonsence derv to big name stuff. Some one once said about ads"if you believe all you hear,then you'll eat all you see". IMHO-that's derv.

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