Only had the VRS for just over a year, and gone from standard to coils, 312's, cupra bushes, Whiteline ARB, 17" wheels and remap already. But this month things have progressd massively - booked in for DS SMF/Sachs SRE clutch, picking up SeatSport FMIC and DS hardpipe kit, and this weekend i sent XMAN a bunch of ££££ and should have a large parcel waiting for me somewhere with a GTB2260 / 2.75" donwpipe / tubular manifold / 4bar map sensor / oil lines and fittings and gaskets. 

 

Now, I am pretty certain i am going to wait until the christmas break to fit this lot, as i want to get uprated injectors and fit the whole lot in one go and run a base map, then build from there (my goal is driveablility as do a LOT of mileage but would be nice to see 275bhp without much smoke).

 

My question is (as all this is a lot of mods in one go), what issues should i expect to arise during the conversion? I know there are a few 'core' members that have carried out such a task out so would be grateful to hear of their experiences. And before anyone asks, i have read MANY threads and seen plenty of useful info, but not many threads which focus on the installation side of things.

 

Many thanks in advance!

Edited 22 September, 201510 yr by Stuart27183

I'm not very experienced in it but from what I have been looking at recently head bolts would be something you need to add.

I'm not very experienced in it but from what I have been looking at recently head bolts would be something you need to add.

Ahh forgot to mention that ive got those aswel!

Coskev has just completed a 2260/tubular/bigger nozzles upgrade on his vRS Fabia, have a look at his project thread, that'll give you ideas

Ah yes i see just found his thread thanks i could'nt remember who it was had the xman tubular manifold.

From what I saw of Kev's build, he had problems seating the nuts onto the manifold, due to them having a built-in washer. There wasn't enough space to sit them completely flat, so he had to use something else instead with a smaller diameter. Other than that it was fairly straight forward IIRC.

 

You'll also probably have to 'clock' the turbo slightly to line the boost pipework up so that it doesn't hit the driveshaft when the car is lowered back to the ground.

 

Xman tries to setup the actuator on his turbos these days, but you'll still probably have to adjust the actuator slightly. You'll need it on the car and setup before doing this. Have a look on John's (Hidden Power/Faboka) website, as there's a guide on there. The stop screw you'll probably have to wind all the way - at least I did with mine and know that this has been the same with other GTB's.

 

Oil return is straight forward because you can retain the standard one.

 

Nozzles you'll want to re-set your injector lash. There's a guide on here somewhere. Easy enough to do - more accurate if you sit a DTI on the top of the head to check when the rocker is absolutely in the correct position.

 

Head bolts make sure you've got an accurate torque wrench for the first 2 torqued stages. I found out recently that my wrench (which I unwind every time after use since I bought it) was under-torquing by about 25% when compared with a new expensive Halfords one. Nothing's absolute unless it's frequently calibrated granted, but try to get the best that you can.

From what I saw of Kev's build, he had problems seating the nuts onto the manifold, due to them having a built-in washer. There wasn't enough space to sit them completely flat, so he had to use something else instead with a smaller diameter. Other than that it was fairly straight forward IIRC.

 

You'll also probably have to 'clock' the turbo slightly to line the boost pipework up so that it doesn't hit the driveshaft when the car is lowered back to the ground.

 

Xman tries to setup the actuator on his turbos these days, but you'll still probably have to adjust the actuator slightly. You'll need it on the car and setup before doing this. Have a look on John's (Hidden Power/Faboka) website, as there's a guide on there. The stop screw you'll probably have to wind all the way - at least I did with mine and know that this has been the same with other GTB's.

 

Oil return is straight forward because you can retain the standard one.

 

Nozzles you'll want to re-set your injector lash. There's a guide on here somewhere. Easy enough to do - more accurate if you sit a DTI on the top of the head to check when the rocker is absolutely in the correct position.

 

Head bolts make sure you've got an accurate torque wrench for the first 2 torqued stages. I found out recently that my wrench (which I used to unwind every time after use since I bought it) was under-torquing by about 25% when compared with a new expensive Halfords one. Nothing's absolute unless it's frequently calibrated granted, but try to get the best that you can.

 

Great reply, thanks for taking the time to write that - gives me some food for thought whilst i fit this lot. 

Day to day use you will learn to hate the SMF SRE kit

Make sure you have various silicone cuplings and large amount of jubilee clips

I'd also advise full service kit for the car and uprated dogbone mount

Controversial I know but genuine 275bhp smoke free isn't feasible, with or without nozzles!

Oh removing the engine makes the job so much easier

Xman has got the turbos set up better now,the last two GTB'S I've fitted the stop screw was set up ok with no adjustment needed.

Actuators both needed slight adjustments.

Ref the oil return a standard one wasn't long enough to fit with my tubular and 2260,so get yourself some oil resistant hose ready,you just pull the ends out of your standard oil return pipe then fit a correct length of pipe between them.

Xman has got the turbos set up better now,the last two GTB'S I've fitted the stop screw was set up ok with no adjustment needed.

Actuators both needed slight adjustments.

Ref the oil return a standard one wasn't long enough to fit with my tubular and 2260,so get yourself some oil resistant hose ready,you just pull the ends out of your standard oil return pipe then fit a correct length of pipe between them.

I bought mine off him a yr ago and it was set smack on so how long you talking about they weren't set up correctly?

I used the darkside oil return since it doesn't kink and block the flow and is very high quality.

Xman has got the turbos set up better now,the last two GTB'S I've fitted the stop screw was set up ok with no adjustment needed.

Actuators both needed slight adjustments.

Ref the oil return a standard one wasn't long enough to fit with my tubular and 2260,so get yourself some oil resistant hose ready,you just pull the ends out of your standard oil return pipe then fit a correct length of pipe between them.

 

Useful information thank you. I have now purchased the extended oil return from hutchysrs50. Coskev - is there a port for an EGT gauge on the tubular manifold?

Useful information thank you. I have now purchased the extended oil return from hutchysrs50. Coskev - is there a port for an EGT gauge on the tubular manifold?

 

 

 

Useful information thank you. I have now purchased the extended oil return from hutchysrs50. Coskev - is there a port for an EGT gauge on the tubular manifold?

 

there is but you can blank it off

there is but you can blank it off

 

OK thanks - is it the XMAN tubular you have? I am going to source a EGT gauge as it will be interesting to see the temps at different boost levels. 

Useful information thank you. I have now purchased the extended oil return from hutchysrs50. Coskev - is there a port for an EGT gauge on the tubular manifold?

 

Yeah there is,deffo worth having a EGT for mapping.

 

Ref fitting the tubular to the head you will need to use allen socket head bolts,so you need to remove your current exhaust studs from the head.(unless xman has revised the manifold flange)

Oh yeah and on the two outer most mounting points of the inlet manifold you will need to get some normal hex head bolts to replace the standard allen headed cap bolts,as once the tubular is fitted you can't get a allen key in the ends to tighten them up due to the tubular restricting access

I bought mine off him a yr ago and it was set smack on so how long you talking about they weren't set up correctly?

 

Doesn't matter how long ago it was,I've fitted three 1756's and helped Alex fit his 2260 and all of those needed stop screw and actuator adjustments.

baby turbos! but welldone for helping alex hes a top guy

baby turbos! but welldone for helping alex hes a top guy

Another helpful informative post from the 'tard,thanks and well done Steve I don't know how we would manage without your helpful knowledgeable replies on here.......

Someone sell me a good priced second hand gtb2260 lol

Another helpful informative post from the 'tard,thanks and well done Steve I don't know how we would manage without your helpful knowledgeable replies on here.......

 

fair play you make me laugh ai u said not so long ago a tubular manifold is a waste of money yet you bought 1

In terms of power it is probably a waste.

Oh yeah and on the two outer most mounting points of the inlet manifold you will need to get some normal hex head bolts to replace the standard allen headed cap bolts,as once the tubular is fitted you can't get a allen key in the ends to tighten them up due to the tubular restricting access

 

if you fitting with engine it situ i fitted inlet first then turbo, and some of the bolts are a right PITA to get to

if you fitting with engine it situ i fitted inlet first then turbo, and some of the bolts are a right PITA to get to

 

Cheers for this information - cant wait to start getting really mad at a bunch of bolts! An yes will be doing it with the engine in situ. This is the whole reason i am doing this over the christmas break, as it gives me two weeks to get it done, and i can use the Mini while the fab is in pieces in the garage! Thanks all for the advice, but i doubt this will be my last question regarding this!