Head gasket photo today.

Rockers clean and now oiled.

Looks like a couple of candidate places on the topside of the gasket for coolant to have been getting into pot 3, I think.

Since we have enough proof the engine maintenance has been a disaster (both on oil and cooling) I can only assume the only thing that worried the ex-owner was overheating. For obvious reasons, duh. Cooking oil and tap water are not listed as maintenance materials...

 

Anyway, if that engine will pass the oil pressure test and will not overheat on highway at full load... I will be definitely impressed by the resilience of Felicia 1.3 engines.

 

PS

I would assume the cooling system is in bad shape too. So a new thermostat, radiator and pump may have to be replaced too. Maybe the timing chain and the crankshaft seal too.

The timing chain needs inspecting.

I only had an hour today, I connected all the bits and Bob's and put the oil in. Compression test shows 160 lb/ft on each cylinder, which is around 20lbs less than the good pots had prior to rebuild. Why? Does the head need further tightening?

The tappets are well gapped, on the side of caution. So not that.

Amy advice before the water goes in?

Compression test shows 160 lb/ft on each cylinder, which is around 20lbs less than the good pots had prior to rebuild. Why? Does the head need further tightening?

You mean 160 lb/sq in (psi). Cold engine. Zero oil on liners. If in doubt and have the possibility, do a cylinder leak down test.

Ok. Will do. Thanks again.

The radiator, heater and water pump seem in good condition.

I will check/change thermostat.

Well.......

Many good bits, oil light off, running well, oil reaching rockers.

Bad bit,,, steam evident at exhaust outlet and some water droplets.

I will accept any positive suggestions with enthusiasm. But it might be a day or two...

Residual coolant in exhaust system from before repair? How far/long has it run since reassembled?

Ok that's worth investigating. I haven't run it much at all.

I don't consider bad bits having a bit more steam and water dripping out of exhaust on cold weather. As long as it's not coolant steam (you've filled with antifreeze solution, right?) is OK. Water is one of the byproducts of combustion. I know my engine runs perfect when water is dripping slowly from the exhaust pipe.

That's encouraging.

I did think the same. I must say when I started my other Felicia it 'steamed' less.

I have do some miles and test it, check the oil and water etc.

Give it some time. I'd say it's a long time since this engine ran so well, with fresh blood. Given the fact you don't know much about what deposits might lurk in the exhaust system too, the engine needs a good hard test to spew all the crap from the top of the pistons and exhaust. Don't be afraid to find out what acceleration and high speed you can get. If not on the highway, maybe on a dyno if it's not too expensive. But given all your hard work and optimism, you might have bought the most inexpensive real gem Felicia. You deserve it.

 

After you'll finish the tests, why not give the car a good wash and present it to us? Outside, inside, engine bay.

Ok.

I took the car out for a run. Plenty of revs and speed. Water red the colour of anti-freeze so no orange. Oil ok.

I had a look at the broken thermostat and housing , missing one of its molded clip retainers.

The spare one have is unfortunately in the same state.

I'm thinking of buying a different design thermostat. Can anyone show me a link or photo of the alternative type I've heard about?

See photo below. On eBay you have to ask specifically if the photo corresponds to real object. The good thermostat is held in with a circlip and comes with the rubber seal too.

 

 

I'm thinking of buying a different design thermostat. Can anyone show me a link or photo of the alternative type I've heard about?

 

I bought one on ebay which had the correct photo,and turned out to be a rubbish one. The seller was carparts4less, in case you find the same one.  The local motor factors managed to find me one of the better design, here is a photo of the box:

 

 

Hope that helps!

Edited 12 February, 201610 yr by areed

Yes it did help. I ordered one earlier, and I'm much relieved ,it's the correct part.

I will take some new, low resolution shots of the car, that the site can accept.

I will take some new, low resolution shots of the car, that the site can accept.

You can manage your attachments made so far from your control panel. Delete older ones to make space. Those interested by your attachments saved them on their HDD by now. I did.

Can anyone explain how the 1.3 engine copes with excess pressure in the water system? Does it vent through the filler cap,if over pressure or over full?

Ricardo, I will oblige with some photos when the/if the weather improves over here!

The cap vents it

Can anyone explain how the 1.3 engine copes with excess pressure in the water system? Does it vent through the filler cap,if over pressure or over full?

So what happened? Problems?

No worries. I had time to fit the new thermostat and housing, I just wanted to be sure that I wasn't missing an overflow pipe.

Also, I have a donor car for parts now. I want to change the fuel pump. I've looked at Haynes, it says I should access it from the luggage space, which appears to be wrong. Do I need to remove the back seats?

Nice to hear everything is alright.

 

I want to change the fuel pump. I've looked at Haynes, it says I should access it from the luggage space, which appears to be wrong. Do I need to remove the back seats?

Yes. There is a 8 inch hatch just under the back seats, right hand. Replace the fuel filter too. It is under the car, tucked on the side of the fuel tank.

Thanks,will do.

The petrol pump can be heard after stalls if I remember. So is it the pump that is likely to be dropping the fuel supply pressure, or should I check something else first?

I've only managed to stall it once since the head was fixed, and I heard the pump as it stopped.

The most common causes (and solutions) immediately after an engine stall are:

1. old, 'dying' fuel pump (listen for pump buzzing when key on, bang on the fuel tank to see if that helps restarting)
2. old, 'dying' crankshaft sensor (measure for alternative voltage at its terminals when cranking)
3. faulty ignition transformer (test according to service manual)
4. bad wiring from age, corrosion (wiggle / tug on wires, check all connectors, spray WD40 in them)
5. old or faulty battery (measure the voltage on each cell)

I changed the fuel pump and sender. Results seem good.

Just timing chain and sprockets left on the list now...