That should've read 'starting position' , it was predictive text.

Trying them with engine at operating temp, rather than cold should make it easier to undo them I think.

If I were you, I would prioritise the sump end of things over the head, and see whether or not that fixes the pressure problem. If it doesn't, the case for doing the HG may be poor.

Edited 7 February, 201610 yr by Wino

Wino is wise too He was faster than me and spot on. It is much easier with more helping.

Thanks Wino . I was of that opinion myself at one point but I kinda got fixated on the HG. I will report back.

I'm not happy with the third party photo site I was recommended. I read some reviews, and it appears they monitor your interests for the purposes of advertising and sell on the information.

So wether I will be able post photos remains to be seen.

I'm not happy with the third party photo site I was recommended. I read some reviews, and it appears they monitor your interests for the purposes of advertising and sell on the information.

So wether I will be able post photos remains to be seen.

Oh, come on... same thing happens each time you use your CC, surf the net, got a Google mail account, etc. You forget that all FREE hosting sites, FREE webmail providers, etc. need to have some sort of income. Otherwise how could they offer services for free? And more importantly, WHY? From the goodness of their heart? Don't be paranoid... nobody asks you to use your CC to sign for a free account. Furthermore, nobody asks you to use your real name or other personal data to share the photos of an engine... How about this? Send me the photos by email and I will post them for you like I did for Dave in this topic. That is, of course, if you trust my knowledge, experience, and goodwill... which for some strange reason I feel you don't. You know... I don't have over 1,000 posts just to socialize. Most people thank me because they trust my knowledge, regardless I live in Dominican Republic. There are smart people in here too..

Edited 7 February, 201610 yr by RicardoM

I'm sorry if you think I don't trust you. That's not my problem. I really appreciate your help and would be very happy to share photos etc by email with you. On the basis, you are a real person, I can trust you. These anonymous companies don't have the same objectives as you or I.

I like to keep my electronic footprint as small as possible.

Please be patient with me, I am new and its my first forum and thread. Antony.

I like to keep my electronic footprint as small as possible.

So do I, Antony. So do I. But only for sensitive info. So feel free to send me photos at [email protected]. I will post them for you from my account at imgur. I suggest using the comment you want me to post each photo with as the name of the photo. It is more concise. Try to take photos in good light and sharp focus.

Ok Ricardo, I went to the full site on my Android phone. It seems to have allowed me to upload pictures of oil strainer and a small shot of sump slurry.

I've cracked the head bolts and nuts, photos of top of engine to follow, tomorrow hopefully.

Any metallic particles in there? If not (too much) you might get away only with a proper flush of the lubrication system. If that restores the oil pressure, you're sorted.

 

Hint: if you have compressed air available, remove the oil pressure switch and blow through the hole. Same for oil filter.

It was like a tarmac surface blocking the strainer. I've emptied the old oil and flushed the engine. I will clean the sump again before filling with new oil and fitting a new filter. The state of HG will tell the rest of the story.

I've set my camera to a lower resolution, so further images won't have to be cropped. The photos I took today have files that are too big, so I had to crop sections to upload, reducing file size.

Also, I kindly let my friend clean the sump, he assures me, there was no metal fragments in it, only carbon.

Good progress. (And a good friend!)

Is the torque setting for the four head nuts really 19 ft/lb? The 10 bolts took over 100ft/lb to undo, they were so tight.. I used impact as well as a long bar to move them. The 4 nuts felt almost hand tight in comparison.

Haynes says 18 or 19 ft/lbs for the nuts. Is that enough?

That is correct. 25 Nm.

Can somebody please tell me urgently how to take the bracket off the front of the cylinder head please? It's held um by a part of the Casting in the centre of the photo.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/383080-felicia-13-mpi-oil-in-coolant-tank-white-gue-in-oil-cap/page-3#entry4506545

Can somebody please tell me urgently how to take the bracket off the front of the cylinder head please? It's held um by a part of the Casting in the centre of the photo.

Photos never loaded first time. Thanks I found the link you sent me. It helped. Head off, cleaned and checked, then refitted with new gasket. Photos to follow, I'm hurting all over, having done the job in the cold weather.

New oil and filter and many 're-attachments to do tomorrow.

Before photos. Showing rockers. Under rocker arm. Cylinder block. Wet valve seat test.

And the cleaned off block. The gasket had perished accross the water ways on the block.

I was short of daylight when I put the head on, so I'm not sure if I stopped to take a photo of the prepared head.

OMG... that has been a very unhappy engine.

I gather you didn't feel the need to resurface the head? :think: :wonder:

Yes you gather right. It wasn't warped, just pitted around coolant passages.

What oil should I use Ricardo? And does the price I pay for an oil filter make any difference?

The oil and filter you will use now are sacrificial anyway so you can use any 10W40 engine oil for petrol engines. I say sacrificial because you will run the engine with it for maximum 500 km then you will flush the lubrication system using a special solution (200 ml or so added to oil and run for 5 minutes). Then change the oil and oil filter. I use semi-synthetic 10W40 oil (last time I used VATOIL Syntech) and for oil filters I stick to Mann.

 

A few tips before and after buttoning up the engine:

• disassemble the rockers and clean the oil passages well because fresh oil didn't get to them in quite a while; oil every part and reassemble
• pour some oil on valve tappets
• rotate the engine by hand a couple of times before fitting the spark plugs, listen for any strange noise
• definitely hook an oil manometer to assess the status of oil system

If not enough pressure as the book says (but no warning light after warmup) do your driving tests for up to 500 km (city & highway at various rpm, you have to get rid of that nasty carbon buildup on pistons) then recheck pressure. Do the flush, change filter/oil and things may get even better. Fingers crossed.

One more thing. Can you take a photo of the old HG underside please?

Yes. Thanks. Will do all including photo.