Good-afternoon all!

 

It's great to see a community dedicated to Skoda owners with many people willing to share information, ideas, arrange meetups and so much more.

 

You'll have to excuse me on some certain aspects of mechanical talk as I have no idea as to exactly what to do, but with my dad being a mechanic I can try and lay out the problem to him (when he has the time to hopefully fix my car).

 

I own a 2004 Skoda Fabia vRS 1.9 TDi with a Stage 1 Remap, EGR Delete (I believe) as well as Decatted. It currently sits at 138k miles.

 

On Thursday evening last week finishing work as I began to drive I could notice something was not right, I wasn't getting any boost as I normally should, then noticing that the traction control (ASR) light was lit up on the dash. I tried repeatedly pressing the ASR button with no luck. After stopping in traffic I turned the car off and back on again, it went away... Until I began to drive again resulting in it coming back on. 

 

When I got back home I plugged my dads code reader in to discover two codes:

 

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

 

After a good few hours of searching the internet (finally finding answers on this forum) I found the location of the sensor and fortunately it was only disconnected, simply reconnecting cleared that fault code (phew!)

 

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

 

Now this is the problem I am currently trying to solve, I am unsure on what to do, what it could be, do I need anything replacing... After searching around I believe it may potentially be linked to the loss of power in the car, as well as possibly being that the traction is stuck on?

 

If I have missed anything, or would like to know more please let me know.

 

I hope someone is able to give me some advice, a solution or anything that will help. Thanks for reading my thread.

 

Regards,

 

Stephen

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by CyronDnB

Hi Stephen,

ASR light coming on after 10 minutes driving seems to be often related to a broken DFM wire from the alternator. There are quite a few threads about this on here.

Intake air temp sensor is located in the air mass meter. This would explain the traction control light.

I'd check it's plugged in properly, circuit high means unplugged, blown fuse or interruption in the wiring.

Ah, I had never heard of an ASR light on a Mk1 fabia that wasn't caused by the DFM wire being broken.  Thanks for the education Tech1e.

Oh it might well be that too, good shout.

Hi Stephen,

ASR light coming on after 10 minutes driving seems to be often related to a broken DFM wire from the alternator. There are quite a few threads about this on here.

Hello Wino,

 

I have noticed that it coming on after 10 minutes of driving seems to be a regular occurence for some people, mine comes on when I begin to drive, whether that may possibly be a different problem I am currently unsure of. May I ask what DFM means as well as where it is located, thanks!

 

Intake air temp sensor is located in the air mass meter. This would explain the traction control light.

I'd check it's plugged in properly, circuit high means unplugged, blown fuse or interruption in the wiring.

 

Hello Tech1e, thank you for your response!

 

By any chance is that the MAF Sensor on the air box? 

 

As located here in this guide http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/227296-guide-changing-the-maf-sensor-on-fabia-19tdi/

DFM is Digital Field Monitor or something like that, a signal from the alternator to the Engine ECU, letting it know what percentage of its available capacity it is generating.  There's a two-way connector on the front of the gearbox where the wiring for this, and another alternator wire are connected. The loom is quite tight either side of these connectors, and one or both of these wires often breaks near there.

 

In this case though, I think this is probably not relevant (though maybe worth checking anyway). MAF connection issue seems to explain the fault code and the ASR light, as Tech1e suggests. MAF is on/near airbox as per your link, yes.

DFM is Digital Field Monitor or something like that, a signal from the alternator to the Engine ECU, letting it know what percentage of its available capacity it is generating.  There's a two-way connector on the front of the gearbox where the wiring for this, and another alternator wire are connected. The loom is quite tight either side of these connectors, and one or both of these wires often breaks near there.

 

In this case though, I think this is probably not relevant (though maybe worth checking anyway). MAF connection issue seems to explain the fault code and the ASR light, as Tech1e suggests. MAF is on/near airbox as per your link, yes.

 

Wino,

 

Thank you for your help, I'm going to start by using some MAF cleaner to see if that could potentially resolve the problem (as when my dad checked my air filter he said it was absolutely filthy), if nothing changes i'll try going through as much wiring possible around the sensors area to see if there are any breaks. If all fails I will get a new "Air Mass Sensor" from Euro Car Parts and pray that will help. I appreciate the help from yourself and Tech1e, will update later on.

I would be checking the plug and connectors before replacing the MAF.

IAT is part of the MAP sensor.

Log group 7 on a WOT test from 2k up in 3rd and see what the IAT is reading. Would also do a group 11 log to check boost.

http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf

Page 39

UPDATE:

 

I've tried the Air Mass Sensor Cleaning Spray, unfortunately that has done nothing. 

 

 

I would be checking the plug and connectors before replacing the MAF.

 

Tech1e, the plug and connectors look fine to me. I will have a more detailed look at the wiring tomorrow.

 

 

IAT is part of the MAP sensor.

Log group 7 on a WOT test from 2k up in 3rd and see what the IAT is reading. Would also do a group 11 log to check boost.

 

Faboka, thank you for your response. Please excuse me as I do not understand much about cars. I know that earlier this evening I went into the Live Data section on my dads code reader and the IAT was at 27c ticking over. When I revved it at around 2-2.5k it was hitting 36-42c (bouncing up and down around that mark, if that's any help). 

 

Thank you also for the link to the PDF! That will also come very useful for the future too.

IAT is part of the MAP sensor.

Log group 7 on a WOT test from 2k up in 3rd and see what the IAT is reading. Would also do a group 11 log to check boost.

Yes of course, four pin MAP sensor, they are part of the MAF on some engine variants.

I'll duck out now rather than giving duff info.

By any chance does anyone know anyone / anywhere I can take this too? I'm in the Birmingham area (Dudley Borough). This morning I had my foot to the floor in every gear and it crawled all the way up to 30 in about 15 seconds. I have too much work commitment and it's getting me nowhere.

I'd just book it into the dealer. Any work they do comes with a 12 months warranty.

Sound like a broken cable on the map sensor to me.

I had this after i fitted a fmic and never extended the wiring, it broke the wire for iat causing it to pull boost and go into limp, as above check wiring at map sensor can get to it by pulling drivers side fog cover off but best to remove bumper

Edited 25 March, 201610 yr by 12345Jay

My car has currently got the exact same symptoms as this,ASR light lit as soon as you start the car and won't go out,and lack of throttle response/power.

I have no engine fault codes showing on VCDS though,but I have one fault showing in ABS which is;

18265 - Load Signal:Error message from ECU P1857 - 000 - -

After taking Fabokas recommendation I logged group7 with VCDS and as soon as I entered group7 the Air intake sensor is showing a temp of 135.9 degrees C!

Logged a WOT run and the temp hasn't changed at all throughout the run,so fingers crossed its just a new MAP sensor job.

But after speaking to Stephen (the OP of this thread) he says his car needed a new vacuum box,that sorted his.

So in case anyone comes across this thread again it looks like there at least two things that can cause the ASR light to remain lit and the car running reduced power.

Will update again once my new MAP sensor is fitted

Always good to update with things like this to help others in the future.

Can't do that on facebook

My car has currently got the exact same symptoms as this,ASR light lit as soon as you start the car and won't go out,and lack of throttle response/power.

I have no engine fault codes showing on VCDS though,but I have one fault showing in ABS which is;

18265 - Load Signal:Error message from ECU P1857 - 000 - -

After taking Fabokas recommendation I logged group7 with VCDS and as soon as I entered group7 the Air intake sensor is showing a temp of 135.9 degrees C!

Logged a WOT run and the temp hasn't changed at all throughout the run,so fingers crossed its just a new MAP sensor job.

But after speaking to Stephen (the OP of this thread) he says his car needed a new vacuum box,that sorted his.

So in case anyone comes across this thread again it looks like there at least two things that can cause the ASR light to remain lit and the car running reduced power.

Will update again once my new MAP sensor is fitted

 

Check the wiring hasn't rubbed through either

Check the wiring hasn't rubbed through either

Yeah am going to take a closer look once bumpers off,but it looks and feels ok tbh

Check the wiring hasn't rubbed through either

Thinking about it wouldn't a broken wire give me a engine fault?

And wouldn't the info on VCDS be showing zero temperature not maximum?

Thinking about it wouldn't a broken wire give me a engine fault?

And wouldn't the info on VCDS be showing zero temperature not maximum?

 

Depends if it's shorted out?

 

I had an issue with wiring rubbing through, it wouldn't measure boost but temperature was fine.

The temperature wire was broken off,right in the plug :(

Found a new plug on ebay,so will sort it out properly once that arrives

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291802137461