I had all 4 discs and pads replaced and around 400+ miles later the performance is shocking, like they have just been fitted .

What could cause this?

The braks/pads were oem spec brembo's

I changed my sons 1.2tsi front brakes with Jurid parts from GSF. They were up to full oomph in a few hundred metres.

I did spend a lot of time cleaning and fettling the calipers and carriers.

Did the brembo discs come with metallic coated surfaces or just oiled, if just oiled, you did thoroughly wash all the oil off with brake cleaner before fitting?

Did you bleed the brakes after fitting?

Ebay brembos could very well be chinese fakes.

Edited 14 September, 20169 yr by xman

These were ecp brembo's so id hope they are real.

I didnt fit them so i cant be sure. Bleeding did go through my mind though

I would try bleeding the brakes as bad fluid or air bubbles can cause a lot of issues.

Does the pedal feel soft or does the pedal feel fine but they're just not biting enough?

 

I changed my brakes once on my Felicia and they were shocking... felt like I was never going to stop. I had cleaned them up but still must have had some oil on them as I bought another can of brake cleaner (different brand this time) and sprayed them and then they were fine.

As above. Doesn't sound right. Maybe contaminated with oil or grease.  I've change a few pads and discs in my time, most recently on the front of the vRS 2 weeks ago and they were virtually normal from 2 or 3 applications maybe a slight improvement over the next tank of petrol but that's it.

 

I also did the change myself, made sure I was careful with installation of the rotors and cleaned with brake cleaner before fitting caliper and pad and also cleaned up the pad slides on the calipers.

 

If the pedal is soft and spongy bleeding / new fluid will help. If they just don't bite sounds like a problem with the pads / discs contamination.

Edited 15 September, 20169 yr by TheClient

Sounds like first point of call might be to bleed them as they feel soft.

It also depends on what sort of 400 miles you do. If they are motorway they wont really bed in. I would take the car down a quiet road and do a few 60mph to 0 stops and see if that helps any. Do not do emergency stops but enough to generate some heat into them. I would also check the brake fluid level as when the calipers were wound in they might have popped a caliper seal causing it to slighlty weap.

Edited 15 September, 20169 yr by Ecomatt

If the discs weren't properly degreased, the pads will now be greasy, and will never give the bite they should.

Yes, may get away with removing caliper and pads, cleaning both disc surfaces (inner and outer) with degreaser and brake cleaner and lightly sanding pads. So long as the contamination hasn't penetrated the whole pad. This is IF bleeding doesn't resolve your problem.  However, if you paid to have this done I suspect you may not be the one fixing this.

Edited 15 September, 20169 yr by TheClient

Its braking but the pedal moves more than expected and if you do hard braking they smell quite easilly.

I am going to give the place that fitted it a call and get it booked in

Contaminated pads and air in system.

I fitted some ecp Brembo Discs and pads to the front of my Octavia and they've bedded in really well. I took some time to clean up the calipers, as they were a bit gunked up and causing the brake to bind slightly.

Its braking but the pedal moves more than expected and if you do hard braking they smell quite easilly.

I am going to give the place that fitted it a call and get it booked in

 

 

Contaminated pads and air in system.

Agreed on both points, so you need new pads and the brakes bleeding using VCDS (preferred) or a vacuum bleeder.

Had the car looked at by the mechanic who fitted them.

He said there was a tiny amount of air in the system.

Its like driving a different car now.

Anyone got instructions on how to bleed the system?

Lots of good instructions out there.

 

2 Options as I see it.

 

1) Pumpy Pump method. one person pumps and then holds down brake pedal, other person opens and closes caliper bleed valves.  After bleed valve closed, person releases brake pedal. Then start again.  This to be done with plastic tube in place from bleed valve to clean fluid in a container to stop air being sucked back in.

 

2) Pressure bleeding - as made by sealey and laser tools and lots of others. Much easier and can be done with one person. Tube to clean fluid should still be in place for best practice.  Possibly doesn't risk damaging master cylinder seals from over extending travel.

 

Having done both - 2) is so much easier and worth investment especially if you ever want to change fluid and purge all 4 corners. If it is just for a one off issue then find someone to help.

 

.....................Waits for someone to recommend vacuum bleeding.......

As above, buy a Gunson eezibleed system and you will never look back, it's so easy and you don't need 2 people for the job.

 

.....................Waits for someone to recommend vacuum bleeding.......

Which happened 5 days before you posted this! 

For bedding in (once bleeding has been completed of course ) I've followed this procedure and would recommend it:

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Brake_pad_bedding_in_procedure

As above, buy a Gunson eezibleed system and you will never look back, it's so easy and you don't need 2 people for the job.

 

 

Would this suffice?

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/gunson-eezibleed

Yep that's the one

Lots of good instructions out there.

 

Pumpy Pump method. one person pumps and then holds down brake pedal, other person opens and closes caliper bleed valves.  After bleed valve closed, person releases brake pedal. Then start again.  This to be done with plastic tube in place from bleed valve to clean fluid in a container to stop air being sucked back in.

 

 

Gents

 

Whilst doing the above method -is it correct that you start with the Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right and finally the Front Left.

 

Paul

I was taught to do the furthest bleeder from the drivers position and then the next closer one and so on . 

I was taught to do the furthest bleeder from the drivers position and then the next closer one and so on .

 

My Dolly sprint manual say left front, right front and the left rear - so front to back, the Skoda work shop manual says back to front see attached:

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/brake_systems/brakes_hydraulics_regulator_servo/bleeding_brake_system/bleeding_the_brake_system_of_air_without_using_the_brake_filling_and_bleeding_device/

 

Paul