Hi,

 

I have an Octavia combi from 2015, European version with "Style" package and Bolero audio.

 

I would like to upgrade the audio system in my car with my own sound system. Let's not challenge my decision.   

I have read the relevant topics, considered the options...etc, the decision has been made. I will either put in my stuff or leave it as it is.

 

The target set up would be:

- keep built in head unit with full functionality

- install a 4 channel Audison amplifier (LRx 4.1k) in the trunk. About 1000W max power, depending on speaker set up and resistance.

- replace front door speakers and tweeters on A coloumn. I have an elder Alpine 16,5cm reference set. I think it is about 75watts RMS or similar range. 4 Ohm.

- install a subwoofer in the trunk.

- leave the back door speakers in, powered by the head unit.

 

I have the speakers, quality wires, power cables, RCAs, low level vs high level converter...etc. everything except a sound processor (that might be needed). 

 

I have been in two car hifi garage and consulted with one another on the phone but the answers I have got was not satisfactory.   They either did not undertake the job or gave a very high price offer due to complexity and even with the note that they cannot guarantee a perfect result. Issues can be from distortion to background noise...etc.

 

As they described, it is not possible simply to pick a high level input at the head unit or from the glove box unit and convert it to RCA. Also not possible to install different speakers as the system will feel the different resistance compared to the built in speakers (maybe 1,2 Ohm?) and block down those channels. :'(

 

Does anybody have experience with this topic? Have you taken this path already?

Please help me to figure out the solution on a reasonable investment level.

 

It should be fairly simple:

- Install a DSP with speaker input.(Or just a converter)

- Connect only front speaker output from Bolero to DSP.

- Connect any amplifiers with RCA to DSP.

- Install power cables from the car battery, remember fuses.

- Install front speakers and connect to the amplifier.

- Install subwoofer and connect to amplifier.

- Adjust the DSP, remember to set fader to front only during adjustment.

- Use rear speakers only when necessary

 

This is something I'm doing, more or less.

I recently had the following installed.by Source Sounds, Sheffield

 

Audison Bit One

Rainbow Germanium 6.5" Speakers

2 Genesis Series III Amps

12" Sub.

 

 

The Amps and Sub I already had.

 

Sub, Bit One and Amps are under the boot floor, with the Bit One DRC in the drivers cubby.

 

I do see fault codes raised for the Speaker channels being open, but that doesn't cause any problems.

 

Going to also get a digital out from my MP3 player straight to the bit one as well for times when I want to listen to a better sound source.

 

The system has been in for a few months now, and sounds so much better than before, and the car is quieter because of the amount of soundproofing that went in.

About using the factory headhunit - at least on my car, it doesn't send out a "clean" signal.

Even without touching any audio settings and for the same songs/content, some days the sound will be full, some days it will lack bass.

This happens randomly and means that the headhunit itself is one of the biggest problems.

I for one am waiting for an alternative headhunit to be available and that will be my starting point.

Please note that I have a MIB1 Bolero - the MIB2 Bolero is a totally different deal.

For a while, I had a courtesy rental Octavia MY16 with the smallest cheapo touch screen unit and even that sounded better than my Bolero.

I cannot wait enough for the alternatives to be in the market.

I would love one of these when I get mine but still no CD/DVD unless you get the extra DVE-5300 unit to go in the glove box, not cheap I expect but very nice! I know Paul at Source, he really knows his stuff and may pay him a visit to discuss options as I'm really gong to miss not having a CD player!

 

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/navigation-system-for-skoda-octavia-3/x901d-oc3

I've just began to do exactly what you're proposing. So far I've replaced the stock speakers (woofers and tweeters) with some JBL ones, and added sound deadening to both from doors. Just doing this has made a big difference in my opinion.

Next up is using a Line Out Converter and add a 4 channel amp to drive the front speakers. Depending on the sound after this step I may/may not be adding a small sub in the boot.

The only thing I would add is that I couldn't run new speaker cables into the door as Skoda terminate all the cables with sides of the door boot and I didn't want to drill holes in my doors.

I've just used the stock speaker wiring and will tap into it for the output from the amp.

I would love one of these when I get mine but still no CD/DVD unless you get the extra DVE-5300 unit to go in the glove box, not cheap I expect but very nice! I know Paul at Source, he really knows his stuff and may pay him a visit to discuss options as I'm really gong to miss not having a CD player!

 

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/navigation-system-for-skoda-octavia-3/x901d-oc3

 

I travel between Hull and Sheffield most days, so if you want to have a listen, I can pop round one evening. Give you an idea of what the stock Amundsen sounds like with the amps / bit one / rainbow combination.

 

The alpine does looks really nice, but I hate to think the price tag.

 

Really like the system that Paul and his team put in. Still a little fiddling to do with the bit one, but the difference is like night and day.

I travel between Hull and Sheffield most days, so if you want to have a listen, I can pop round one evening. Give you an idea of what the stock Amundsen sounds like with the amps / bit one / rainbow combination.

 

The alpine does looks really nice, but I hate to think the price tag.

 

Really like the system that Paul and his team put in. Still a little fiddling to do with the bit one, but the difference is like night and day.

 

yes I'm not sure I want to throw a couple of grand at a head-unit! I'll be putting a couple of amps in and components/sub/processor, I have specced the dual floor in the estate so I can put amps in there and maybe fan cool it through the sides, then a custom fibre glass enclosure in the spare wheel well, sounds complicated but the aim is to keep it simple and stealth.

Edited 14 October, 20169 yr by marko

 

Stealth is definitely the way to go, especially when the spare wheel well gives you so much space. I don't have the dual floor so everything went into the wheel well. The bit one is underneath the amps. Haven't needed fans even driving 600 miles in 30 degree heat.

 

The floor was raised by about 1cm to give the sub space.

I've just began to do exactly what you're proposing. So far I've replaced the stock speakers (woofers and tweeters) with some JBL ones, and added sound deadening to both from doors. Just doing this has made a big difference in my opinion.

Next up is using a Line Out Converter and add a 4 channel amp to drive the front speakers. Depending on the sound after this step I may/may not be adding a small sub in the boot.

The only thing I would add is that I couldn't run new speaker cables into the door as Skoda terminate all the cables with sides of the door boot and I didn't want to drill holes in my doors.

I've just used the stock speaker wiring and will tap into it for the output from the amp.

Actually, I have noticed a hole and rubber plug in it on the main body of the car at the front doors that could be used for this. There is no pair of this hole on the door itself but there is that plastic tube that can be punched for the wires. I hope it will work because I know the importance of the good wires on sound quality and invested a little money for good cables already.

I have 2x7m of these:

It should be fairly simple:

- Install a DSP with speaker input.(Or just a converter)

- Connect only front speaker output from Bolero to DSP.

- Connect any amplifiers with RCA to DSP.

- Install power cables from the car battery, remember fuses.

- Install front speakers and connect to the amplifier.

- Install subwoofer and connect to amplifier.

- Adjust the DSP, remember to set fader to front only during adjustment.

- Use rear speakers only when necessary

 

This is something I'm doing, more or less.

Why is it important to use only the front speaker signal and also that you propose not using the rears for listening?

 

I know it will not work with the DSP installed but in my previous system, the front signal was the input for the front speaker set while the rear signal was used for the sub. So when I wanted to have more bass on a track I could set the fader to a little bit more on the rear. As the rear door speakers was driven by the head unit, theoretically these sounded louder but honestly I did not really heared them anyway.

I have already found a used Audison Bit ten for purchase, so this will be solved but I am curious, how to avoid noise or beeps...etc.

How do you wire it?

No need to use the rears for listening, as you want the sound stage in front of you. If you use the rears then they pull the sound stage backwards.

 

As for the Bit Ten, you might want to pick up the remote control (DRC) for it as well, if you can. That way you can control the sub level through the DRC. I have mine in the drivers cubby.

 

The DSP itself will be working to avoid the beeps and noise. That is part of the purpose of it. You will be taking the wires from the front speakers and instead of driving speakers will wire it to the bit ten.

 

It will then output a line level signal to your amps which then drive the speakers.

 

As part of the DSP, you can configure the equalisation on the input signal and the output. So equalise to a flat signal on the input, so you can then apply sensible output equalisation.

 

This is my understanding, but could be completely wrong.

Actually, I have noticed a hole and rubber plug in it on the main body of the car at the front doors that could be used for this. There is no pair of this hole on the door itself but there is that plastic tube that can be punched for the wires. I hope it will work because I know the importance of the good wires on sound quality and invested a little money for good cables already.

I have 2x7m of these:

 

 

I will take photos of my doors to show how the new wires got in there.

I think for now I will use the standard Amundsen and try and rig a CD player into with the line in terminal. the other thing is the stock head-unit has no RCA cable so looking at speaker level converters like the Rockford 360 line level converter. I know some processors have this feature already but the ones I have do not! (Rockord EPX2 or Arc Audio DXE)

Thank you guys (girls?),

 

so I will not give up! It seems that most of you did not experience noise or distortion after blanking the speaker cables (front or rear...) at the glove box unit, which is a good sign. 

It also suggests that it may depend on installation and wiring quality.

 

I had booked a date for a consultation at another car hifi service for next Wednesday. They seemed professional and had some experience with Skoda so I am optimistic.

 

Hope the best.

Remember you won't be blanking the speaker wires. You will be directing them to the DSP.

 

But the drop in resistance is enough to raise fault codes, but as I said doesn't cause problems.

Why is it important to use only the front speaker signal and also that you propose not using the rears for listening?

 

 

As said above, you want the sound stage in front of you.

Besides, if you adjust your front speakers properly why mess it up with unadjusted rear speakers?

Unless you have people on the backseats and they need to hear the news from the radio. 

 

The DSP will separate the subwoofer signal from the front signal so you should adjust that, not fader.

Edited 14 October, 20169 yr by Petunet

As said above, you want the sound stage in front of you.

Besides, if you adjust your front speakers properly why mess it up with unadjusted rear speakers?

Unless you have people on the backseats and they need to hear the news from the radio. 

 

The DSP will separate the subwoofer signal from the front signal so you should adjust that, not fader.

 

If they can't here the radio from the fronts after putting the amps in, they are deaf.

Well, yes.

But if someone is speaking on the phone in the front and people at the backseat want to hear important rally results at the same time, rear speakers will come handy.

 

Has happened more than once...

Just don't mention good quality cable again or I'll flounce.

Remember you won't be blanking the speaker wires. You will be directing them to the DSP.

 

But the drop in resistance is enough to raise fault codes, but as I said doesn't cause problems.

hmmm. Let's see if I understand it.

So as they are not long enough, I need to cut them somewhere, then solder a longer one to the Bit ten, right?

As it is a lease car, and I need to give it back about 2 years later, I need to leave the cables in place. So it can be converted back to original state.

Also if I am not wrong there are connectors at the front doors, so it is anyway not possible just to pull out the original cables from the doors.

Is my understanding correct?

If they can't here the radio from the fronts after putting the amps in, they are deaf.

I have two children, they sometimes listen to the music or even ferry tales with a tablet connected... So I do not need and normally don't even hear anything from the back when commuting e.g. but it should be available in case of need.

Actually, I have noticed a hole and rubber plug in it on the main body of the car at the front doors that could be used for this. There is no pair of this hole on the door itself but there is that plastic tube that can be punched for the wires. I hope it will work because I know the importance of the good wires on sound quality and invested a little money for good cables already.

I have 2x7m of these:

 

For what can be of interest, stranded cables are not (my and others') primary choice for audio.

hmmm. Let's see if I understand it.

So as they are not long enough, I need to cut them somewhere, then solder a longer one to the Bit ten, right?

As it is a lease car, and I need to give it back about 2 years later, I need to leave the cables in place. So it can be converted back to original state.

Also if I am not wrong there are connectors at the front doors, so it is anyway not possible just to pull out the original cables from the doors.

Is my understanding correct?

 

You don't have to cut anything, you can buy an cable adapter to the main unit to extend speaker output to wherever needed.

And back to original cables from the amplifier.

Edited 15 October, 20169 yr by Petunet

Hi All,

 

thank you for your comments, suggestions and advice. Mission completed, the system is almost ready. Luckily it turned out that my fears of bad signals, distortions, beeps and system failures were unfounded totally. 

The guys in the Hi-fi service were professionals. They set up the DSP and all things properly.

There are two things missing. First, I bought a subwoofer, but it was a speaker only, so I had to have prepared an enclosure for it. I have to wait another week to get it done.

The other issue is with my Audison. I  have purchased a remote sub level controller on eBay for the LRx, they guys in the garage wired it in as it was on the drawing but it doesn't work. We tried it with a subwoofer that they used for the DSP setup.

 

I do not know what to do now, just trying to look after some info on the web...