Hi folks

I'm at the end of my tether. I've a 2003 Octavia estate L&K tdi PD 130. The drivers door lock has recently started playing up when unlocking with the remote on the key. It would usually work by clicking it a second time but then the remote stopped working. I could unlock the drivers door with the key and manually unlock

The rest from inside. Did that for about a week but now the doors are all deadlocked apart from the drivers door. I can't even open the others from the inside. I've no power to the mirrors for adjusting and they don't heat any more. Strangely the boot lock works via the remote and the drivers switch on the armrest. The fuel filler cap won't release either (although I can reach inside the rear panel and force the lock lever open). I've had the drivers door panel off and fixed a couple of broken wires so now I get the door switches illuminated when the headlights are on but they've not worked for years. The multi plug terminals on the drivers door control unit are all clean and dry. I've tried the appropriate fuses. It they're all fine. The Haynes manual says fuse 6 is for the CL but on my car there's no terminal on one side of it, the CL wiring diagram doesn't mention fuse 6 but does mention fuse 37 which is 30A but mine is 5A and is for ignition only accessories. Can't find this fuse anywhere. So I checked every fuse in the fuse board and all ok. Pulled off facia to look behind fuse box for missing terminals (fuse 6) but all fine. Have no idea which relay might be involved but central control unit clicks when key fob or door locking switch used. I'm at a dead end here. Does anyone have any ideas?

I'd go for the control unit on the drivers window regulator. When I was replacing the front pax one on my car I had the wrong suffix of unit (a B instead of a D) and it did weird things to all the windows and central locking and switch lighting.

As above, probably the control unit in the drivers door or the wiring harness where it passes from the door into the car. The wires are half an inch too short and slowly wear through over the years causing short circuiting and other weirdnesses. 

 

The best bet on getting a new control unit for the door is to get one from an identical model car, so a 2003 octavia l&k. I think there are many many suffixes and variations, some made by different companies. I had one from a bora which did not work, I opened it up and opened up my existing dead one and found the manufacturer of the circuit board (and the layout) to be quite different. 

To test i it is the door module could he disconnect it for now and see if the problem goes away? If it was that shorting out etc, surely the remove locking and door lock will still operate. 

I've tried opening the other doors when the battery is disconnected and they won't let me pull up the buttons to unlock the doors individually. It's as if I've done something to upset the system. Does anyone know where the wires go once inside the A pillar as I can't see where they go from the inside of the footwell. Do I have to access them from the wheel arch?

To test i it is the door module could he disconnect it for now and see if the problem goes away? If it was that shorting out etc, surely the remove locking and door lock will still operate.

Pretty sure the driver module controls signal to all doors, so if you disconnect it, then nothing will work.

Well I replaced the door lock. No change. Replaced the door control module after making sure it had the same serial number- no change. Fixed the wiring harness and checked continuity and it's ok. The voltage supply to fuse 10 and 14 are only 10 volts however????

And having the fault codes read resulted in 'implausible signal' from all door lock and faulty heating in both mirrors. Does anyone have any idea? I am live without central locking by the way, so if anyone knows how to release the deadlocks by applying voltage to a couple of wires that would be helpful too. For the last month I've had to borrow another car to drive my family about in

On the