Hi!
​I am a new proud owner of a Skoda Fabia 1.2 Ambiente Combi DSG (2012) (as I understood is the correct name). My knowledge about cars is very, very limited. Now I am experiencing an issue with my car. I tried to search the forum on this issue. However, English isn't my mother's tongue, and I don't know if I am using the correct words. So perhaps there are others with the same issue, I just haven't found them. I apologize if that's the fact.

 

My issue is: the cigarette lighter is powered all the time, even with the key removed from the key hole. I use the cigarette lighter to power my GPS, so if I don't remove the plug every night, the battery might be empty the morning after.
 

In my previous car, there was only power on the cigarette lighter when the engine was running (as I recall), at least not when the key was removed from the key hole. How can I achieve the same behaviour in my new Skoda?

 

Hoping on some newbie-proof answers

 

Albert van Harten
Denmark

 

 

Hi!

​I am a new proud owner of a Skoda Fabia 1.2 Ambiente Combi DSG (2012) (as I understood is the correct name). My knowledge about cars is very, very limited. Now I am experiencing an issue with my car. I tried to search the forum on this issue. However, English isn't my mother's tongue, and I don't know if I am using the correct words. So perhaps there are others with the same issue, I just haven't found them. I apologize if that's the fact.

My issue is: the cigarette lighter is powered all the time, even with the key removed from the key hole. I use the cigarette lighter to power my GPS, so if I don't remove the plug every night, the battery might be empty the morning after.

In my previous car, there was only power on the cigarette lighter when the engine was running (as I recall), at least not when the key was removed from the key hole. How can I achieve the same behaviour in my new Skoda?

Hoping on some newbie-proof answers

Albert van Harten

Denmark

Welcome to the forum. Your English is better than my Danish so don't worry.

It's standard on most Skoda s nowadays for the power outlet to have power all the time even with the ignition turned off. I don't known why they do it that way as its very annoying.

If you want to plug things like cameras in you'll either have to remember to remove it each time or if you're feeling ambitious you could wire it into the battery/fuse box directly so it will only come on with the ignition. There are a few guides on here which will show you how.

Thank you, Freedom, for your quick reply. Although I've "liked" your comment, I don't like the fact that I have to be ambitious - when it's coming down to cars, I am not ambitious at all :)

But perhaps I will ask my mechanic if that's easy (as in: cheap) to achieve :)

 

Thank you again!

Hmm, I might check out how this forum works, I thought "Freedom" was your nick name. Obviously your nick name is Gumby - Freedom is your level :)

Depending on the power supply controller fitted to that car, I'd hazard a guess that that could be altered by making changes using a tool like VCDS - though it could be that Skoda hard wire that power outlet so that that change can not be made.

 

For what it is worth, my SEAT Ibiza LATE 2009, VW Polo 2015 and Audi S4 2011 all have that power outlet switching off when the key is "off" or removed - and I have noticed while casually sniffing around their controllers, that there is an option that sounds a lot like it would change the behaviour of that power outlet.

Hmm, I might check out how this forum works, I thought "Freedom" was your nick name. Obviously your nick name is Gumby - Freedom is your level :)

 

Excellent, that sounds like you might just start to become ambitious as far as car stuff is concerned?

This might be of use - I understand that, in those Skodas where the 12v socket is toward the rear of the central console, the power to it is disabled if you also disable the rear window switches. It's a child safety measure, apparently, as rearward 12v sockets could potentially be interfered with by small hands and if they can't be trusted with window switches, they can't be trusted with power sockets.

Just a thought, in case it applies to yours...

 

I'd personally just put an illuminated switch in-line to disable the socket myself. I like having manual control over such things!

Test

Depending on the power supply controller fitted to that car, I'd hazard a guess that that could be altered by making changes using a tool like VCDS - though it could be that Skoda hard wire that power outlet so that that change can not be made.

Within a few hours, I'll visit the company that sold me the car, to fix another thing - I will ask about the VCDS tool. I have no idea what it means, but well, if you told me, my car could fly when I open the front doors, I'd believe you.

 

For what it is worth, my SEAT Ibiza LATE 2009, VW Polo 2015 and Audi S4 2011 all have that power outlet switching off when the key is "off" or removed - and I have noticed while casually sniffing around their controllers, that there is an option that sounds a lot like it would change the behaviour of that power outlet.

I hope it's the same in my car. we'll see. I'll post if I know something more.

 

Excellent, that sounds like you might just start to become ambitious as far as car stuff is concerned?

Guess it's not going to happen - I got my driver license 20 years ago, and I still see a car as a necessary evil thing - I need it to visit my customers. No offense to any car enthousiast, I am very glad for any help I get.

 

This might be of use - I understand that, in those Skodas where the 12v socket is toward the rear of the central console, the power to it is disabled if you also disable the rear window switches. It's a child safety measure, apparently, as rearward 12v sockets could potentially be interfered with by small hands and if they can't be trusted with window switches, they can't be trusted with power sockets.

Just a thought, in case it applies to yours...

 

I'd personally just put an illuminated switch in-line to disable the socket myself. I like having manual control over such things!

 

The rear windows in my car are manual, so that would not be applicable on my car. I don't know if small hands could interfere with 12v sockets, but hey, don't underestimate my daughter. Though she's only 4 months, with a father who can damage everything by only looking at it, my daughter is potentially a champion in the same sport.

 

Everyone: thanks for reading, writing and suggesting.

​I'll get back if I know something more.

Test

Within a few hours, I'll visit the company that sold me the car, to fix another thing - I will ask about the VCDS tool. I have no idea what it means, but well, if you told me, my car could fly when I open the front doors, I'd believe you.

 

VCDS - VAGCom Diagnostics System. It's a shareware computer program that allows you to read and reset fault codes, inspect values generated by various sensors in the car (for example, you can see the engine water temperature directly rather than relying on the gauge or warning light(s)), change the behaviour of programmable functions (for example, if your car has an electronic throttle, then you can fit it with a cruise control system for the price of parts, about 30 minutes to fit them, and the same in time changing parameters in car's computers)...

 

It's most unlikely that the company you bought the car from will have it.

 

On the subject of your cigarette lighter socket, it's unlikely that it can be made switched live easily, because its live wire effectively attaches to the battery, rather than to the ignition switch (key lock).

On the subject of your cigarette lighter socket, it's unlikely that it can be made switched live easily, because its live wire effectively attaches to the battery, rather than to the ignition switch (key lock).

Should be fairly easy... as in something even I would do on someone else's car with relative confidence - Take the centre console trim off, disconnect the permanent live and rewire it to an existing switched live. Hardest part I'd think would be finding an appropriate switched live on the wiring diagram, although there's probably a lot more on a car than the bikes I'm used to.

 

Or just put in a simple on/off rocker switch on the permanent live wire. I suggested an LED switch, so it would light up when powered and you'd immediately know if you'd left it on when locking your car up.

Should be fairly easy... as in something even I would do on someone else's car with relative confidence - Take the centre console trim off, disconnect the permanent live and rewire it to an existing switched live. Hardest part I'd think would be finding an appropriate switched live on the wiring diagram, although there's probably a lot more on a car than the bikes I'm used to.

 

Or just put in a simple on/off rocker switch on the permanent live wire. I suggested an LED switch, so it would light up when powered and you'd immediately know if you'd left it on when locking your car up.

Easy on an "old car" like ours are, but Fabia II has CANBUS.

Easy on an "old car" like ours are, but Fabia II has CANBUS.

 

I vaguely know what CANBUS is/does... I guess that's a problem with the switched live.

But would it even matter on a permanent live direct to the battery? There's no controlling or anything involved...

I vaguely know what CANBUS is/does... I guess that's a problem with the switched live.

But would it even matter on a permanent live direct to the battery? There's no controlling or anything involved...

All I know is that CANBUS seems to get very upset when it thinks you've added something to, or taken it away from, the electrical system.

That's why I'm thinking direct wiring of a non-critical or even unmonitored component wouldn't upset it. It probably has a fuse somewhere, but that's it... probably. Would need to check... and would likely add an inline fuse, for safety's sake anyway.

You could put an appropriately rated relay with normally open contacts in line with the existing socket and use a 12V switched live from the ignition to energise it.

Did an easy fix for this on my Mk2 Fabia. I went into the fuse box and found that the fuse for the heated seats was switched by the ignition (or at least the slot was, my Fabia isn’t fitted with such luxuries). According to the owners manual this usually takes a 20A fuse, so I figure that should be plenty safe to run the 12V socket which runs on a 15A fuse as standard.

 

I then went and picked up a fuse tap, a breakout fuse, and a some bullet connectors. I broke off the inside of the breakout fuse with a screwdriver, connected the fuse tap to the breakout fuse with a bullet connector, and installed the original 15A fuse for the 12V socket into the breakout circuit on the fuse tap.

 

I then plugged the fuse tap into the heated seat fuse slot, and the breakout fuse into the 12V socket fuse slot, ensuring that the negative of the 12V socket slot was connected to the positive of the heated seat slot.

 

Works a treat, everything is still fused as it should be, and it's easily reversible. And I definitely went back and shortened those wires instead of just cramming them behind the fuse board cover...

On 15/09/2024 at 17:54, breeze_eng said:

Did an easy fix for this on my Mk2 Fabia. I went into the fuse box and found that the fuse for the heated seats was switched by the ignition (or at least the slot was, my Fabia isn’t fitted with such luxuries). According to the owners manual this usually takes a 20A fuse, so I figure that should be plenty safe to run the 12V socket which runs on a 15A fuse as standard.

 

I then went and picked up a fuse tap, a breakout fuse, and a some bullet connectors. I broke off the inside of the breakout fuse with a screwdriver, connected the fuse tap to the breakout fuse with a bullet connector, and installed the original 15A fuse for the 12V socket into the breakout circuit on the fuse tap.

 

I then plugged the fuse tap into the heated seat fuse slot, and the breakout fuse into the 12V socket fuse slot, ensuring that the negative of the 12V socket slot was connected to the positive of the heated seat slot.

 

Works a treat, everything is still fused as it should be, and it's easily reversible. And I definitely went back and shortened those wires instead of just cramming them behind the fuse board cover...

Why does the negative of the 12v socket need to be attached to the positive of the heated seat socket?

1 hour ago, Skodaty said:

Why does the negative of the 12v socket need to be attached to the positive of the heated seat socket?

Because it’s a circuit with wiring nearby the 12v socket which is on a switched live. By wiring it as he did it’s put the switches fuse wiring into series on the 12v permanent live, which because it’s in series, now makes the 12v socket also a switched live.

Because his car doesn’t have heated seats it meant the circuit wasn’t being used so it also made it suitable for use.

On 15/09/2024 at 17:54, breeze_eng said:

Did an easy fix for this on my Mk2 Fabia. I went into the fuse box and found that the fuse for the heated seats was switched by the ignition (or at least the slot was, my Fabia isn’t fitted with such luxuries). According to the owners manual this usually takes a 20A fuse, so I figure that should be plenty safe to run the 12V socket which runs on a 15A fuse as standard.

 

I then went and picked up a fuse tap, a breakout fuse, and a some bullet connectors. I broke off the inside of the breakout fuse with a screwdriver, connected the fuse tap to the breakout fuse with a bullet connector, and installed the original 15A fuse for the 12V socket into the breakout circuit on the fuse tap.

 

I then plugged the fuse tap into the heated seat fuse slot, and the breakout fuse into the 12V socket fuse slot, ensuring that the negative of the 12V socket slot was connected to the positive of the heated seat slot.

 

Works a treat, everything is still fused as it should be, and it's easily reversible. And I definitely went back and shortened those wires instead of just cramming them behind the fuse board cover...

I want to do this but I can’t find a 25A breakout fuse. Anyone know where I can find one to ship to Germany? Or is it possible to connect 2 fuse taps together to achieve the same result?

37 minutes ago, Skodaty said:

I want to do this but I can’t find a 25A breakout fuse. Anyone know where I can find one to ship to Germany? Or is it possible to connect 2 fuse taps together to achieve the same result?

Yes, it would work with two fuse taps, or just a suitable spade connector for the cigarette lighter fuse end. That’s what I did.

I understand whats being done here but the reference to negative is confusing to me as the fuses are only about positive live. I thought that we are taking the switched live of the heated seat ( effectively the ignition live ) and sending it via an inline 15amp fuse into the positive line of the lighter socket. The lighter socket would use the negative it already had. What am I missing ?

On 31/03/2026 at 19:44, daveo138 said:

Yes, it would work with two fuse taps, or just a suitable spade connector for the cigarette lighter fuse end. That’s what I did.

Thanks for all this info, understand how it works after some clarification.