2 hours ago, gxgro said:

You cannot bridge the amp because is already bridged but on my mib1 i ran without problems a 4 ohm sub. Just select a pair of wires to connect the sub, isolate the other and, the MOST IMPORTANT thing, switch polarity of the selected pair of wires to shift the bass to front seats.

I havent picked out the sub yet. 

I think i’ll go for the 10” with big sensitivity. 
Also, there is option to buy dual coil woofer. Im not really a caraudio guy so im learning as i go. 
My headunit has the biggest screen option, i think, if it helps anything. 
Im really thankful for all the help!

So the last question, should i buy single coil 4ohm subwoofer or dual 2x4ohm, wire it on 8ohm and use it like that?
As i understand the original is 2x8ohm sub. 

If you can find 2x4ohm go for it, if not go 4ohm, but take in consideration buying a separate amplifier for the sub with a high-low converter so you can transfer the system when you change cars.

Installation is fairly easy, i've done it myself.

Hello!

 

I know this is old topic but lets wake it up. I also want to change my Canton system speakers. I have 2016 Skoda Octavia. So after long searching through internet i desided to ask from local car audio company, have they ever added aftermarket amplifier for subwoofer in Canton system. They had, and they said its done by using active high-low converter from Canton amplifiers front woofer channels. Thats because only front woofers provides full range of frequency for subwoofer. Rear woofers wont. Subwoofer channel will go to protect mode if there is no speakers installed to those wires. 
 

So, i ended up to buy active high-low converter, new speakers to front doors, amplifier for subwoofer, 10” subwoofer and Basser subwoofer box to replace Canton subwoofer. I think new 500w rms subwoofer would play a lot better than small Canton. 
 

A year ago i put sound deadening to front and rear doors, also trunk and under rear seat. It helped that little Canton subwoofer to play a lot louder, but frequency was too high. Not low at all. And also all bass comes from trunk. Not midbass at all from front doors. 
 

Im going to install new speakers next week, also high-low converter and wires and amplifier to trunk. New Basser sub box is also coming after next week. They are already shipping it from Basser. 
 

So i will tell you after i have installed all things and hope for the best. 

Hello can someone explain me how to conect 4 omh subwofer instead canton original im using audison 4 omh .I tried outside wires + and - but it stops working .now conected just to one channel it that ok?or I have to conect to chanels in paralel?please hellp me 

On 15/12/2021 at 10:30, gxgro said:

You cannot bridge the amp because is already bridged but on my mib1 i ran without problems a 4 ohm sub. Just select a pair of wires to connect the sub, isolate the other and, the MOST IMPORTANT thing, switch polarity of the selected pair of wires to shift the bass to front seats.

that is explained before. 

On 15/12/2021 at 10:30, gxgro said:

You cannot bridge the amp because is already bridged but on my mib1 i ran without problems a 4 ohm sub. Just select a pair of wires to connect the sub, isolate the other and, the MOST IMPORTANT thing, switch polarity of the selected pair of wires to shift the bass to front seats.

that is explained before. 

On 15/01/2023 at 11:23, HeiKai said:

Hello!

 

I know this is old topic but lets wake it up. I also want to change my Canton system speakers. I have 2016 Skoda Octavia. So after long searching through internet i desided to ask from local car audio company, have they ever added aftermarket amplifier for subwoofer in Canton system. They had, and they said its done by using active high-low converter from Canton amplifiers front woofer channels. Thats because only front woofers provides full range of frequency for subwoofer. Rear woofers wont. Subwoofer channel will go to protect mode if there is no speakers installed to those wires. 
 

So, i ended up to buy active high-low converter, new speakers to front doors, amplifier for subwoofer, 10” subwoofer and Basser subwoofer box to replace Canton subwoofer. I think new 500w rms subwoofer would play a lot better than small Canton. 
 

A year ago i put sound deadening to front and rear doors, also trunk and under rear seat. It helped that little Canton subwoofer to play a lot louder, but frequency was too high. Not low at all. And also all bass comes from trunk. Not midbass at all from front doors. 
 

Im going to install new speakers next week, also high-low converter and wires and amplifier to trunk. New Basser sub box is also coming after next week. They are already shipping it from Basser. 
 

So i will tell you after i have installed all things and hope for the best. 

I changed my mind and installed DSP to replace Canton amplifier. So now i have this gear:

 

Alpine R-S65C.2 speakers in front doors

Match DSP UP8 under drivers seat

10” subwoofer in trunk and 500W RMS amplifier to drive subwoofer. Basser box. 

 

I also coded head unit with OBDEleven to send signal to speaker inputs. That replaced MOST going to Canton. 
 

sounds great now

For all you guys that are really tired of this crappy bass and want to fix it permanently without adding anything else like DSP and Amps+Helix AAC+(or other alternatives) get the Audi 80A035382A and retrofit it into the spare wheel cutting the foam if you have storage space or adding it if you have a spare wheel.

 

What you need to do it OE Style is:

 

1. Audi 80A035382A* take care for the code because 80A035382(Without the A) is on 40W and 2Ohm single channel

2. Skoda 5E5867427P for replacing the empty space after the removal of the Canton Sub Box

3. 191972714 Female plug (You plug the male connector that goes now into your Canton Sub)

4. 7n0972704 Male connector plug (That goes into the B&O Subwoofer).

 

Take care of the pinout to keep the phase correct and enjoy the bass that should have been there from the start.

 

I also suggest to add some sound insulation in and on/around the subwoofer box. This will remove the rattling and plastic resonance sound and make the deeper frequencies clearer.

 

Enjoy!

 

On 18/02/2023 at 11:54, HeiKai said:

I changed my mind and installed DSP to replace Canton amplifier. So now i have this gear:

 

Alpine R-S65C.2 speakers in front doors

Match DSP UP8 under drivers seat

10” subwoofer in trunk and 500W RMS amplifier to drive subwoofer. Basser box. 

 

I also coded head unit with OBDEleven to send signal to speaker inputs. That replaced MOST going to Canton. 
 

sounds great now

Hi. I want to upgrade also. So you installed a new dsp amp, new front speaker and sub with amp. How did you do the coding in obd?

 

did you use the standard cables? And put a high low convertor?

 

thanks

koen 

On 18/02/2023 at 11:54, HeiKai said:

I changed my mind and installed DSP to replace Canton amplifier. So now i have this gear:

 

Alpine R-S65C.2 speakers in front doors

Match DSP UP8 under drivers seat

10” subwoofer in trunk and 500W RMS amplifier to drive subwoofer. Basser box. 

 

I also coded head unit with OBDEleven to send signal to speaker inputs. That replaced MOST going to Canton. 
 

sounds great now

Hi. Any info how to decode with obd?

On 23/12/2021 at 08:33, gxgro said:

If you can find 2x4ohm go for it, if not go 4ohm, but take in consideration buying a separate amplifier for the sub with a high-low converter so you can transfer the system when you change cars.

Installation is fairly easy, i've done it myself.

Hello everyone, 

I have a a problem. 

I was preparing myself for a new Superb 3 liftback and already started to collecting Audi gear to change factory sub. The plan was to replace just a sub and power it from Canton AMP. The only sub 2x8Ohm was JL Audio https://www.jlaudio.com/products/10tw3-d8-car-audio-tw3-subwoofers-92193

But since the Fit-Box is only 15L and this sub is not haveint the best responce I bought HERTZ MP 250 D4.3 PRO https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-subwoofers-mille-pro-mp250_d4_3/

This one is 2x4Ohm. 

It should work just fine, but those info was about 81A035223 which I should get in my Superb. Insted, I got 3G0035466 

So, what IC this one have? I it going to work on my HERTZ?

 

 

New topic about this amp: 

 

Hi 

I currently own superb (2020) with canton dsp amp paired with columbus 9.2.

 

I have intention to replace canton dsp amp to after market dsp. The plan is to use navtv zen 5 to decode MOST 150 to toslink signal for aftermarket dsp. 

Any one of you done that? 

If so.. Can if advise on the following for navtv settings

 

1. What s the car type to set? Vw or audi? 

2. Will the reverse beepers and blue tooth phone audio be preserved? 

3. Will the audio attenuation when car reverses be preserved as well? 

 

There's one member who has successes with navtv zen 5,however the forum thread is dead for 8 months.  Can't get any advises there. Hopefully can get some answers and guidance here. 

On 10/11/2020 at 15:50, gxgro said:

SInce april i run without any problems the following setup.

 

Trunk: Subwoofer JBL Club 1024 250W/4Ohm with the custom Basser box and JBL Club 5501 Amp pushing the sub at around 275W because of the sealed enclosure. I had to use a high-low input level converter because using the high level input present on the amp would throw him in protect mode... don't know why. (input voltage < 12v)

Front: I replaced them with the Hertz Cento C165 woofers because the spider on the left one broke and .. prrr prr prr. Although the nominal impedance is only 3.1 ohms, i didn't have any problems of overheating or shutting down or any thing.

Hi. Are you still running the hertz speakers with satisfaction?

On 10/11/2020 at 15:50, gxgro said:

Trunk: Subwoofer JBL Club 1024 250W/4Ohm with the custom Basser box and JBL Club 5501 Amp pushing the sub at around 275W because of the sealed enclosure. I had to use a high-low input level converter because using the high level input present on the amp would throw him in protect mode... don't know why. (input voltage < 12v)

Front: I replaced them with the Hertz Cento C165 woofers because the spider on the left one broke and .. prrr prr prr. Although the nominal impedance is only 3.1 ohms, i didn't have any problems of overheating or shutting down or any thing.

Hi! Is it okay to use 4 ohm speakers in the front? I'm also planning to replace the factory Caton speakers in my Octavia, but there aren't many options for 8 ohm speakers.

Edited 13 May, 20251 yr by hauserjoci

On 14/05/2025 at 01:48, hauserjoci said:

Hi! Is it okay to use 4 ohm speakers in the front? I'm also planning to replace the factory Caton speakers in my Octavia, but there aren't many options for 8 ohm speakers.

Why you want to remove the stock speakers?

If you have read all above, I have tried several speakers setups and for sure the stock ones are at 90% better than any choice you will make with stock amp! Be sure that almost every speaker above 50w will start clipping at high volume.

If you want more bass, make insulation of door. If you want louder sound there are other ways, that will make you suffer from pain from loudness ;)

If you want best in my opinion, i have literally listened to one of users also wrote above,

Just change the sub in trunk. And also some louder settings and you are done :)

On 9/23/2023 at 8:30 AM, Internetdivisor said:

For all you guys that are really tired of this crappy bass and want to fix it permanently without adding anything else like DSP and Amps+Helix AAC+(or other alternatives) get the Audi 80A035382A and retrofit it into the spare wheel cutting the foam if you have storage space or adding it if you have a spare wheel.

 

What you need to do it OE Style is:

 

1. Audi 80A035382A* take care for the code because 80A035382(Without the A) is on 40W and 2Ohm single channel

2. Skoda 5E5867427P for replacing the empty space after the removal of the Canton Sub Box

3. 191972714 Female plug (You plug the male connector that goes now into your Canton Sub)

4. 7n0972704 Male connector plug (That goes into the B&O Subwoofer).

 

Take care of the pinout to keep the phase correct and enjoy the bass that should have been there from the start.

 

I also suggest to add some sound insulation in and on/around the subwoofer box. This will remove the rattling and plastic resonance sound and make the deeper frequencies clearer.

 

Enjoy!

 

I’ve been thinking about this too, Audi’s B&O subs get a lot of praise in car audio circles, and I’m sure they have some 2x8 ohm setups. Unfortunately, the stock Canton sub is pretty weak. I was considering adding a separate amp and enclosure, but I’ll probably try this option first! Is it plug-and-play for the Octavia? Do you just need to extend the stock Canton cable, and that’s it? My trunk has a fixed cargo floor, not the adjustable “floor-lift” type.

The Bang Subwoofer will be enough for you. I'm pretty sure you will love it. Just try not to mess the + and - of your 2 channels, because if you do so all the bass in car will dissappear.
I even have 1 sub for sale :), because I bought 3 or 4 in a rush

3 minutes ago, hitmn said:

The Bang Subwoofer will be enough for you. I'm pretty sure you will love it. Just try not to mess the + and - of your 2 channels, because if you do so all the bass in car will dissappear.
I even have 1 sub for sale :), because I bought 3 or 4 in a rush

Is there any information on whether 8V0035382C from B&O is also suitable? It also has the same parameters, but it was installed in other Audi models.

Yes. It must be, but you have to try. I know that there is difference in depth. One is few cm higher. In newer Canton models there is also such 2 x 100 2 x 8 ohm, but with no good sound.

I have tried A6 C8 and Q5 2nd gen and they are good enough. New Canton/Dynaudio(for golf) are not so good. I've read in other forums that are being replaced.

Regards,

PS. What I mean good is. They all will go to 50Hz, but A6 and Q5 go down to 35-40, making your T-shirts and hair vibrate.

Edited 29 September, 202529 Sep by hitmn

On 29/09/2025 at 12:17, hitmn said:

Yes. It must be, but you have to try. I know that there is difference in depth. One is few cm higher. In newer Canton models there is also such 2 x 100 2 x 8 ohm, but with no good sound.

I have tried A6 C8 and Q5 2nd gen and they are good enough. New Canton/Dynaudio(for golf) are not so good. I've read in other forums that are being replaced.

Regards,

PS. What I mean good is. They all will go to 50Hz, but A6 and Q5 go down to 35-40, making your T-shirts and hair vibrate.

Hi. I got the one for the Q5, I don't want to risk trying the other one in case it's worse. I'm waiting for the connectors from Aliexpress and then I'll install it.

Do you know the wiring sequence? Or should I just follow the Canton wiring and simply extend the cable in the same order?
Thanks!

Best you can do is to make it as it is +- +-, but I'm not sure what are the cable colors.

Look at this :

You can't mess nothing just make it in sequence. 1st make channel 1 and try. If you don't hear bass in car so you have depolarised + and -. If you do go with 2nd channel.

Then tell me what you think

or what you hear

or feel

2 hours ago, hitmn said:

Nem ronthatsz el semmit, csak sorban csináld. Először is, állítsd be az 1-es csatornát és próbáld ki. Ha nem hallod a basszust az autóban, akkor depolarizált vagy. Ha igen, akkor válaszd a 2-es csatornát.

Aztán mondd el a véleményed.

vagy amit hallasz

vagy érzel

Hi! The B&O subwoofer has arrived, as well as the sound deadening mats for the insulation. I’m still waiting for the connectors from AliExpress, and then I’ll start installing everything! :)
Thanks for the help, I hope it turns out great!