On 29/11/2017 at 16:18, AwaoffSki said:

Is there any reason you agreed to pay £350 for that service.   ( 20% of it is VAT.)

DID THEY CHARGE FOR A A/C SERVICE AS WELL AS THE MAJOR SERVICE?

 

They can not just charge for parts not used and charge VAT on parts not used. 

So what are the Parts Prices?

 

Are there these parts provided.?   Ie Service Schedule  items for a Twincharger @ 40,000 miles / Major Service.

Oil Filter, Oil , Sump Plug, Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Washer Fluid' Diagnostics check, Road Test and report.

If not your were robbed.

Are the Discs corroded and in need of replacement, most are, for year after year.

 

No 'Recall ' was done on the DSG just a 'Service Campaign' & that is done Free. '34H5'. 

eg,

DID YOU RECEIVE A PHONE CALL OR LETTER EVER 'RECALLING THE CAR'?

It is a Software Update on some 2013-2015 DQ200 DSG because they can over heat / have too much pressure, leak etc etc.

 

PS

Was the brake fluid changed in 2016 at a Minor Service / MOT year, it is due to be changed again next year by the Service Schedule / Guidelines.

 

I paid £350 because that is what they invoiced me.  In 2016 I paid £320 and in 2015 I paid £220 - these (rounded) figures include VAT at 20%, the ones below don't.

Labour was £208, Oil filter £9.48, Air filter £18.95, Pollen filter £16.10, Cleaner (Screen wash?) £4.54, Screw (Sump plug?) £2.65, Engine oil (Quantum) £32, Environmental charge £5.

I didn't need the brake fluid or spark plugs changed or an air conditioning  service.

 

I am reasonably confident that I can get a much more detailed and better annual service carried out by a good Independent garage for less than £350.  The only things that concern me are that an Independent may have "issues" with any required ECU updates and perhaps with replacing the plugs - I don't know about the latter, I haven't done it myself for years but get the feeling that some specialist tool is required.

 

As to the corrosion of the rear disks, I can't honestly say that I feel competent to comment on whether or not they need to be replaced - I will get someone else to have a look at them; for safety and insurance reasons I need to sort this.  The wheels were not removed to facilitate close inspection of the disks / pads - I would expect a decent garage to do this as a matter of course.  I can't quite see why the rears would be corroded and the fronts not - weird!

How much should replacement of the disks and pads (front and rear as separate items) cost?

Corrosion on rear discs is often due to a build up of dust and corrosion on the sliding surfaces between pads and carrier. This causes one of the pads, usually inner to stick, so that only the outer pad is actually braking, the disc on the inner side then builds up rust ovwr time due to lack of pad contact.

 

Its because your servicing dealer was lazy and did not strip and clean the brakes at the major service as recommended by official skoda service schedule. Many dealers deliberately flout the guidelines to save time and then upsell you pads and discs later on.

 

Its actually easy to fix, strip the brakes, clean up the carriers, lubricate with the correct grease, file off excess corrosion on the disc, (if the discs are still above min thickness) refit with new pads and the discs should clean up after a braking session. 

^^^ Corrosion is due to them being rubbish discs. 

Brand new Demonstrators with under 3,000 miles can be red with surface / cosmetic corrosion.

I changed mine about every 18 months because they got bad and that was with 10,000 miles a year but a salty winter, and sitting around, 

and going rusty just parking after a run and it raining or washing the car.

4 new discs & pads are under £140, and easy to change and service the calipers / pins.

 

I MOT'd my 14 year old Suzuki yesterday, 54,000 miles parked outside, same conditions as a Fabia gets parked, and still the original discs fitted, pads replaced once though.

 

Bottom Discs are on a Golf. but same thing 'build up of corrosion' maybe other night, maybe still pull on the hand brake and clear the rust in the first few hundred yards, but still the pads last longer than discs...

Edited 2 December, 20178 yr by AwaoffSki

11 hours ago, xman said:

Its because your servicing dealer was lazy and did not strip and clean the brakes at the major service . . .

 

I have finally come to accept that this is the case.  I have used three different dealerships in the past to service my vRS - I haven't been impressed with any of them.

On the other hand, for many years I used an Independent to service and MOT my cars - sadly the owner has now retired and the dealership is no longer.

The Independent was cheaper and seemed to be incredibly thorough.

I know of a local tyre place that I trust; they also do brakes so I will take my car in there.

I still don't understand why the rears would be worse than the fronts, is it just a matter of "chance"?

Rear do not get the work out that fronts do. The wear is more from the cosmetic rust being taken off and then ending up scoring the rears.

 

Have you given the rear discs a look. run your finger across the discs when cold, felt for a lip, 

or even had the wheel off and look at the back of the disc?