I did it !! Didnt need to take the wheels off - 18 inch. They do make a difference to both looks and splatter. Took me about 3 hours.

Front

back

Good work. I saw someone else say it took them an hour. Took me longer than your 3 hours 

The Instructions were pretty average. Took me about 15 minutes to figure out that I had to push in the centre of the plugs to lock them in place ! Frustrating.

4 minutes ago, NZPETE said:

The Instructions were pretty average. Took me about 15 minutes to figure out that I had to push in the centre of the plugs to lock them in place ! Frustrating.

 

The plastic "rivets" were a new experience for me too 

That’s interesting , I thought all ‘editions’ had the black plastic wheel arch addition because of the wider wheels?

not on 4x4 (225 rather than 235 wheel size)

I see!  Thanks for clearing that one up!

Fitted today by myself. I have not used the plastic rivets, 4 nuts and bolts made it stronger 

 

 

I've fitted these too, they look good and do work.

 

As per someone above I just used some automotive tape on the front, as drilling holes in a new car was a no-no for me. Tbh it is probably fine with 1 bolt and the clamp thing. But the tape just adds a little bit extra.

Edited 5 July, 20187 yr by ethereum

May I just add my own observations to the great advice already offered by fellow Briscodians.

1.The job is straight forward but do not rush.

2. The drill size is critical .Too big and the rivet will not hold the flap to the wheel arch liner.I did a test drill through an empty plastic butter tub and offered the rivet through this before serious drilling commenced.

3.I already had a small Makita drill and on full steering lock was able to drill out without the need to remove the wheel.

4.Michael G has mentioned the Irish parts dealer and I would endorse this supplier on the grounds of both price and top service.

5.Just returning to the rivet, I used a 40cm length of 2x1 timber to help push the rivet home and secure. Other methods such as a hammer may only help to buckle the rivet spline and then you are up the creek!

6.Phew !Good luck.

 

 

Just paid £38 inc post from superskoda

I have put mudflaps on my Karoq, front & rear. The rear ones were easy to fit. However the front ones can be fitted with the wheels on, I didn't drill the holes for mine as there are 2 fixing points and 1 other if you drill the holes. Tbh there's no danger of them falling off as they seem secure enough with 2 fixing points. 

Just fitted genuine  rear mud flaps from my local skoda retailer very easy to fit no drilling to do did not remove rear wheels so room a bit tight but no problems just need correct socket

Hi, Just done mine on an Octavia but not much difference. If it helps anyone here are a couple of observations...

 

1. The rear wheels did need to come off, just no clearance to fit the inside fixing unless you jacked it up. Probably more clearance on a Karoq or similar. I wanted to spray the rear suspension arms, bushes etc as some creaking so a good opportunity to do it.  

2. I have an offset drill but didn't bother with it. Risk of catching the alloys with the chuck was in my mind. You are making a hole in a plastic liner so I used a small spike tool then a long handled PZ2 screwdriver to enlarge the hole, done in a few seconds with the wheels still on but on full lock. A tight fit for the plastic fixing but it will hold well.

3. All wheel arch liner screws and mudflap fixing screws got a smear of copper slip grease to prevent corrosion. 

4. They provided a couple of torx black screws for vehicles that don't have arch liners - rather than not use then I drilled a couple of extra holes in the flaps and added them halfway between the top and bottom screws just to make the fix a bit stronger. Remember you are fixing into plastic parts so no worry about bodywork corrosion, but don't overtighten. 

 

I am semi retired (far too young for that I hear you all say!!) so I have some time on my hands - reading this and seeing a dealer ask for £150 to fit a set I am appalled - If anyone lives close enough and wants a hand with a job like this give me a shout. I've a big drive, a garage that is too full to get inside so decent weather would be a bonus. I actually did mine on a rainy day I used a pop up gazebo to work under. I took about 2 hours because while the wheels were off (rears) I cleaned and polished them inside and out. I had actually done the fronts a couple of days previously, if they need doing you may as well take all the wheels off and combine the jobs.

 

Interesting thread, thanks for posting. Black mudflaps on a white car are quite subtle and don't stand out like a sore thumb. Lets hope they help keep it a bit cleaner.

https://www.skodapartsireland.ie/category/touch-up-paint

 

Cheapest place I found for flap...

On 27/05/2018 at 08:25, NZPETE said:

I did it !! Didnt need to take the wheels off - 18 inch. They do make a difference to both looks and splatter. Took me about 3 hours.

Which part nr did you use? The one with or without A at the end?

Hope this helps anyone who is this thinking of fitting mudflaps,much of the info is already here and is extremely helpful.I have just fitted front and rear,without removing the wheels,turning the front wheels leaves plenty of room.Regarding drilling the holes for the locking rivet it is easily done by hand,if needed grip the drill bit with a pair of pliers or similar,the wheel liner is soft plastic and a sharp drill will try and go straight through,so do it in stages ie turn the bit clockwise to drill then anti clockwise to release plastic.Before fittting the rivets,spray with wd 40 or similar ,this will make pushing the locking pin in easier.I found no need to drill bigger than 6mm.The rear rivet locking pin  is trickier than the front one ,I used a piece of wood and a small hammer to knock it in.The rear flaps require no drilling but the instructions are misleading,there are only two screws fitted to the liner and one vacant hole,this accepts the rivet.Its quite tricky to fit the rivet,unless you remove the wheel,purely because of the distance in the arch.However I used a piece of wood to 'lever'the locking pin in using the wheel as the pivot.The bottom locking fixing literally just pushes into a pre drilled hole underneath the car.I will post pics once the weather clears up and get a chance to clean my car,they do look smart and discreet.

On 26/10/2019 at 12:49, Steve_G said:

Hope this helps anyone who is this thinking of fitting mudflaps,much of the info is already here and is extremely helpful.I have just fitted front and rear,without removing the wheels,turning the front wheels leaves plenty of room.Regarding drilling the holes for the locking rivet it is easily done by hand,if needed grip the drill bit with a pair of pliers or similar,the wheel liner is soft plastic and a sharp drill will try and go straight through,so do it in stages ie turn the bit clockwise to drill then anti clockwise to release plastic.Before fittting the rivets,spray with wd 40 or similar ,this will make pushing the locking pin in easier.I found no need to drill bigger than 6mm.The rear rivet locking pin  is trickier than the front one ,I used a piece of wood and a small hammer to knock it in.The rear flaps require no drilling but the instructions are misleading,there are only two screws fitted to the liner and one vacant hole,this accepts the rivet.Its quite tricky to fit the rivet,unless you remove the wheel,purely because of the distance in the arch.However I used a piece of wood to 'lever'the locking pin in using the wheel as the pivot.The bottom locking fixing literally just pushes into a pre drilled hole underneath the car.I will post pics once the weather clears up and get a chance to clean my car,they do look smart and discreet.

As promised,pics of my Moon White Karoq with shiny new mudflaps.