1 minute ago, JaamesVRS said:

The map is fairly spiked as my dyno graph showed then the torque dropped off seriously quick which could be due to the tired turbo like you say. So Cartridge seems the way forward? 

 

Dude, it's your money, if you're short right now then go the cheapest route just to get it on the road and get you earning again, then go 'head down, arse up' until the spring and see if you can afford the upgrades then.

24 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Dude, it's your money, if you're short right now then go the cheapest route just to get it on the road and get you earning again, then go 'head down, arse up' until the spring and see if you can afford the upgrades then.

I have two jobs, due to my main job not paying enough money (don’t they all in this day and age) my primary job I have a company van my secondary job I need to use the Fabia and obviously without the fabia no secondary work, which limits my income which makes this whole thing even harder it’s a vicious circle!! 

 

Ive torn the car down today, inlet manifold is off, exhaust downpipe is off, boost pipe onto turbo disconnected, as far as I know know it’s a case of disconnecting the bayonet click type fitting off the turbo, remove oil feed pipe, remove support bracket then take off the turbo and replace. The core does seem like a good idea, in terms of life would the core be better opposed to a second hand Garrett as it’s basically a new turbo? I don’t want to be doing this again a couple of months down the line but haven’t got the money to buy a complete recon turbo, I’ve been out of work weeks before xmas and only received my first weeks pay week just gone so times are very tough! 

Managed to get the turbo off this evening, I’ve checked all the cast housing and manifold and found no cracks or anything so I think it’s okay to rebuild with CHRA. I’ve found Melett CHRA for around 140, would that be the recommended brand to go for? Or would you guys use another brand? 

It's fine to rebuild. The impeller is like tinfoil origami compared to the rest of the turbo, who cares about brand, just get one with a decent guarantee and a spec. sheet showing dynamic balancing stats.

There’s a few on eBay UK seller 2 year guarantee for 100 quid, opposed to the 140-170 Melett kit. I want to rebuild it but worried it won’t work or smash into a million pieces once it’s done?! So Sepul if it was you, could you drop a link for me please on what you would personally buy? Is it worth paying the extra for Melett? I want it to last!

That’s the two I’m looking at, 70 quid between them there abouts. Obviously 170 is the Melett option. I’m worried about the VNT system, setting up the actuator same as it used to be, would a recon turbo be bolt and go? Or would it need setting up too? It’s a nightmare this I’m confident I can do it, but not confident at the same time! I’ve never owned a turbo or touched a turbo before hence my concern. I’ve watched videos and it’s looks so simple, is it really that simple? Is it a case of change CHRA bolt back together and go again? Or does the turbo need taking somewhere specialist to be set up etc? 

No it's simple, as long as you have the tools and the talent, there's nothing clever, nothing tricky, mark the actuator linkage with paint so you can put it back together the same way it came off, take good pictures just in case.

 

There is no reason why the turbo should detonate after you've rebuilt it unless the CHRA is no good, remember you need all the gaskets and oil pipes as well and replace any dodgy nuts, bolts etc.

Rebuilding the turbo needs to be done under CLEAN conditions, that means a clean bench, clean tools, all parts clean, good lighting and careful assembly. Then you can throw it back on the car and start it, don't rev it at all for a minute to allow the oil to pressurise fully in the turbo bushes, then take it for a spank to make sure it's running well.

Okay mate thanks - so the turbo doesn’t need running in as such? Just leave it to run so it gets good lubrication? Didn’t know if you needed a few hundred miles for everything to bed in gently like engine rebuild or whatever? In terms of the VNT side of the turbo does all of that need a good clean? Or just change the cartridge? 

10 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

Okay mate thanks - so the turbo doesn’t need running in as such? Just leave it to run so it gets good lubrication? Didn’t know if you needed a few hundred miles for everything to bed in gently like engine rebuild or whatever? In terms of the VNT side of the turbo does all of that need a good clean? Or just change the cartridge? 

It can be a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump fuse or unplug injector loom so you can turn over engine to get some oil pumped into new turbo without firing engine. I suppose you could just make sure you put a bit of oil into the feed hole once turbo is fitted to give it something to run on before starting.

Running in is not necessary for a turbo, once its up to temperature its ready to go as normal. But maybe take it steady for first few miles then stop and check for leaks in case you are loosing oil from somewhere.

Edited 24 January, 20188 yr by JWvrs25

Started removing intercooler etc ready for front mount when...... ffs!! 

 

Guessing this map sensor! Wtf do I do now?! 

Guessing I’ll need one of these?

Yup, that's a 'whoops' moment right there.

Was a proper whoops moment! My

own fault, I got a bit carried away and rip map sensor wiring 

Finally got the car back together. New Intercooler fitted, everything modified to fit (had to do away with fog light and modify crash bar etc) crank the car over and it ****es out oil! Oil filter cover plastic useless thing cracked! £40 from TPS ouch, for a bit of plastic!! Never rains it pours!!!

 

someone said on here that you can disconnect injectors or remove fuel pump fuse so the car doesn’t fire when cranking over to pump oil into the turbo before starting. Can anyone tell me where/how to do this as can’t find any info on google! 

13 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

Finally got the car back together. New Intercooler fitted, everything modified to fit (had to do away with fog light and modify crash bar etc) crank the car over and it ****es out oil! Oil filter cover plastic useless thing cracked! £40 from TPS ouch, for a bit of plastic!! Never rains it pours!!!

 

someone said on here that you can disconnect injectors or remove fuel pump fuse so the car doesn’t fire when cranking over to pump oil into the turbo before starting. Can anyone tell me where/how to do this as can’t find any info on google! 

 

Yes i found an easier way, open fusebox and bottom right hand fuse is a 30A and is for diesel injection or something. Pull it out and it will crank without firing. As soon as you reconnect it will fire and no faults stored.

2 hours ago, JWvrs25 said:

 

Yes i found an easier way, open fusebox and bottom right hand fuse is a 30A and is for diesel injection or something. Pull it out and it will crank without firing. As soon as you reconnect it will fire and no faults stored.

Your a gent! Thanks mate will be sure to do that 

2 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

Your a gent! Thanks mate will be sure to do that 

No worries, just make sure your battery is good otherwise you'll flatten it from turning over, especially if it ain't been driven for a few days/weeks

 

Edited 30 January, 20188 yr by JWvrs25

Just now, JWvrs25 said:

No worries, just make sure your battery is good otherwise you'll flatten it from turning over

 

Battery is fine! How much shall I turn it over, how many seconds per interval and how many intervals? 

Just now, JaamesVRS said:

Battery is fine! How much shall I turn it over, how many seconds per interval and how many intervals? 

Don't know, but would imagine 10 seconds would get enough oil up the feed to reach the turbo, then once its running it shouldn't take long to build pressure properly

It's not even necessary, the turbo bush will contain engine builders lube to protect it on startup, it won't be dry for crying out loud! Engineering 101 - the internets 0

I also believe it isn’t necessary however I wouldn’t want to be tearing it apart again that’s for sure, good to be overly cautious rather than it will be okay 

Better to be safe, some places specify the turbo needs to be filled by syringe of oil before starting for first time.

9 minutes ago, JWvrs25 said:

Better to be safe, some places specify the turbo needs to be filled by syringe of oil before starting for first time.

 

It'll just flow straight back down the oil drain hose, what a faff for nothing, the only thing that will float the shaft in the bush is oil pressure, guess what you get as soon as you start the engine, instant oil pressure.

If there's no lube in there at all then how did they balance the turbo, magnets and witchcraft?

That is a very good point and understand exactly where you are coming from, like for example what happens if the car is sitting for a long time, the oil would eventually drain back into the sump but the amount of effort and money I’ve thrown into it which I’ve struggled to afford I can’t afford for “why didn’t I do that” scenarios 

Yes that makes sense, but for the sake of a fuse and a few extra seconds. who’s to say the turbo hasn’t been sat on a shelf for 6 months and all the oil drained out? I know it will never be dry but surely every little helps especially with these kkks which aren’t known to be the best