oil dipstick - level and a crack

[snowathlete]

Oil was changed today. The dipstick doesn't match either of the examples shown in the manual. But I found this image online which does match, and the markers were as I had worked out.

Having changed the oil putting the same amount in that I got out, it appears a little high, in the D zone. But as per the Note in the image, this can be normal, apparently, and it will self-correct. So my question is, what causes the oil level to be too high like this?

 

Second thing: exactly where the 2 is on the image, the maximum indent, my dipstick has a crack. I guess I'll have to replace it, but how big an issue is this?

[Ootohere]

A big issue if it breaks. 

best plug the dipstick tube until you get a un-cracked dipstick.

 

How much oil did you take out?

How much is that you put in now?   What is the engines oil capacity?

 

Are you checking the oil level at 'operating temperature' after being sure enough oil was in to run it to operating temperature.

Not warm, up above 50*oC indicated temp, but better above 80*oC parked on the flat and checked after a few minutes.

 

***

It is not diesel in the engine oil now if you filled new oil,

the oil that came out might have had diesel in it though.***

Edited 25 January, 2018 by AwaoffSki

[snowathlete]

1 minute ago, AwaoffSki said:

A big issue if it breaks. 

best plug the dipstick tube until you get a un-cracked dipstick.

 

How much oil did you take out?

How much is that you put in now?   What is the engines oil capacity?

 

Are you checking the oil level at 'operating temperature' after being sure enough oil was in to run it to operating temperature.

Not warm, up above 50*oC indicated temp, but better above 80*oC parked on the flat and checked after a few minutes.

 

OK, thanks, I'll go ahead and get a new one. I wouldn't be surprised if other people have cracked dip sticks as it's quite weak at that point, and could easily go unnoticed. You really have to look very close after cleaning that inside part of the dipstick. Might be worth people checking their own.

 

I got a little under 4L out (with an oil extractor) and put the same amount back in. If anything I put a tiny bit less in than I got out because I was doing it gradually and checking the level. The capacity is 4.3L. First time I checked the engine was still quite warm but I then drove it up to 86oC and checked again. The ground is almost level, there is a very slight slight slope because my drive was laid that way so water will slowly drain away but it's virtually level, not enough to explain the level being a bit high.

 

[Ootohere]

When you use an oil extractor, or when doing it as a professional does, you then remove the sump plug, and drain the last, and replace a new sump plug.  (or you are supposed to...)

 

Slight slope gives slight mis-readings, so check someplace else.

Drain off or suction off engine oil (1).doc

Edited 25 January, 2018 by AwaoffSki

[TLV]

Here's a picture of the dipstick on my 1.6. If yours doesn't match the ones on the images already posted, it's probably like mine.

 

 

Since my car is so low that I can't really do anything with it on the ground, I've either jacked up the front of the car (when slippery) or used ramps. Suppose it has the added benefit of raising the car in a way that allows more oil to flow out the back of the oil pan. Every oil change I've bought a 5L jug. After doing an oil change I've checked the oil level next morning and end up pouring in nearly all of the oil, leaving about 150-200ml in the jug if I remember correctly.

 

E:Most dealerships never touch the sump plug. If using a vacuum extractor, it's more difficult to get as much oil out. Instead of pouring in a set amount, you could pour in most of said amount and check with the dipstick a couple of times, refilling if needed.

Edited 25 January, 2018 by TLV

[Ootohere]

Most Dealerships might not touch the sump plug, but then they should, (not that that is actually true.)

and then if not touching it / changing a Sump Plug, they should not put a Sump Plug and VAT on an invoice,

because even if it is £3 total it is Fraud.

Drain off or suction off engine oil (1).doc

Edited 25 January, 2018 by AwaoffSki

[snowathlete]

16 minutes ago, TLV said:

Here's a picture of the dipstick on my 1.6. If yours doesn't match the ones on the images already posted, it's probably like mine.

 

 

Since my car is so low that I can't really do anything with it on the ground, I've either jacked up the front of the car (when slippery) or used ramps. Suppose it has the added benefit of raising the car in a way that allows more oil to flow out the back of the oil pan. Every oil change I've bought a 5L jug. After doing an oil change I've checked the oil level next morning and end up pouring in nearly all of the oil, leaving about 150-200ml in the jug if I remember correctly.

 

E:Most dealerships never touch the sump plug. If using a vacuum extractor, it's more difficult to get as much oil out. Instead of pouring in a set amount, you could pour in most of said amount and check with the dipstick a couple of times, refilling if needed.

 

Yes I have the same type as that, thanks for the photo. I'll get a snap of mine when it's light here to show the crack. I'll also check the level tomorrow once it's settled. If it's still high I'll extract a tiny bit and then keep an eye on it for a few days.

 

Thanks for the tip about jacking up the car, I'll do that next time and hopefully it'll help me get the last bit of oil out I couldn't manage this time. I wasn't too bothered this time because it was only changed 5k miles ago and was probably fine, but as it was under the previous owner at their local garage I couldn't be sure what spec oil they used, so I decided to change it to be on the safe side.

 

I also changed the air filter, even though not due according to the schedule. Think it's the original. Looks past its best in my opinion.

 

[snowathlete]

12 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Most Dealerships might not touch the sump plug, but then they should, (not that that is actually true.)

and then if not touching it / changing a Sump Plug, they should not put a Sump Plug and VAT on an invoice,

because even if it is £3 total it is Fraud.

Drain off or suction off engine oil (1).doc

 

On a previous car a dealership billed me for screen wash. I pointed out I had topped it up that morning myself, and they then claimed they had to drain it to do some other work they did. I'm not sure that was true at all, but regardless I pointed out they should have just drained it into a bucket and then poured the same liquid back in once they were done with the work. They did agree to remove it from the bill but I still considered it fraud. I can't stand stunts like that. Same would be true if it was a sump plug that was never changed. Stuff like that should never happen. I figure it's probably worth getting the oil drained via the sump every once in a while rather than with an extractor, but I'm not doing it this time because it's a pain to get to.

[superbdreams]

16 hours ago, AwaoffSki said:

Most Dealerships might not touch the sump plug, but then they should, (not that that is actually true.)

and then if not touching it / changing a Sump Plug, they should not put a Sump Plug and VAT on an invoice,

because even if it is £3 total it is Fraud.

Drain off or suction off engine oil (1).doc

Blade group charged me £15 for a sump plug, but there was some evidence that led me to believe the oil had not been changed, then when I had the oil tested and it showed -

silicon at 90% of maximum permissible

Iron at 40%

Aluminium at 85%

copper 34%

Etc. They  admitted they had only sucked the oil out and clearly (if they did ) then not much and sent the car out dangerously overfilled.

And tats only part of the saga, skoda uk stood by them too.

[snowathlete]

9 minutes ago, superbdreams said:

Blade group charged me £15 for a sump plug, but there was some evidence that led me to believe the oil had not been changed, then when I had the oil tested and it showed -

silicon at 90% of maximum permissible

Iron at 40%

Aluminium at 85%

copper 34%

Etc. They  admitted they had only sucked the oil out and clearly (if they did ) then not much and sent the car out dangerously overfilled.

And tats only part of the saga, skoda uk stood by them too.

 

That's well bad. You get all your money back I take it? 

[Ootohere]

superbdreams,

A favour, 

if you have the invoice, put up the part number for the Sump Plug they say they supplied.

 

They charge customers VAT to pay the HMRC, so not only taking money by false pretences, defrauding the HMRC / Treasury / Tax Payers.

[xman]

Grossly overcharged for a sump plug even by rogue dealer standards.

Overfilling is unacceptable.

Sucking oil out by a dealer is unacceptable when they charged for a sump plug and smells of a scam.

I always mark up the oil filter, so did they really change it? You probably don't know for sure.

 

This is why I try to diy. I know that's not an option during warranty, but I always ask for parts to be returned for examination, even the sump plug.

Yes I know they could be bold and pull parts out of the bin, bit at least it alerts them that you are on the ball.

 

I have heard from someone who worked at a national franchise (not a skoda dealer) who told me it was common for cars from some customers not to move from the spot they were parked up before servicing not to move until they were picked up.

 

When I diy oil changes, I always drain via the sump plug. I will put in the user manual specified amount less about 0.75 litres. If the oil shows at least halfway up the dipstick, I run the car for a minute or two to fill the filter and oilways. After the car has stood a while, I'll recheck the level and top up to the 3/4 level a bit at a time , around 100-150ml. Then take the car for a short run to get warm, not hot. Let car stand on perfectly level ground for 3 or 4 minutes, and finally top off, to no more than top of hatched area, or a little bot less. And check for filter/plug leaks. Repeat after a couple of hundred miles.

 

[xman]

17 hours ago, AwaoffSki said:

When you use an oil extractor, or when doing it as a professional does, you then remove the sump plug, and drain the last, and replace a new sump plug.  (or you are supposed to...)

 

 

If you remove the sump plug to drain the last bit, why bother sucking the oil out? Twice the work.

[Ootohere]

H&S if a technician is doing 10 or more oil & filter changes a day. a workshop maybe doing dozens / hundreds.

@ Operating Temperature Oil removed, then last oil out the sump, new plug in.

Commercial Business, Profits, efficiency,  rather different from DIY.

Drain off or suction off engine oil (1).doc

[snowathlete]

here's a pic of the cracked dipstick. New one on order from dealer for £11.36 including VAT. They're both at weak points but even so I can't see how this damage would have occurred. Only thing I can imagine is someone put it in part way and then applied a lot of side ways pressure rather than downward pressure pushing it in. Wasn't me, obviously.

 

Edited 26 January, 2018 by snowathlete

[chimaera]

If you changed the oil filter, did you fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before fitting it? If not then you will lose a small amount on the dipstick from filling it. There are probably other nooks and crannies inside the oil galleries that might have emptied when you drained the oil and it can take a few minutes running for them to refill. Likewise oil stored in the valve followers.

 

Over time you will burn a small amount of oil so that would also account for a drop in level over time. An increase in oil level over time as someone said earlier implies diesel getting into the oil, usually as a result of interrupted regeneration of the DPF.

[snowathlete]

2 hours ago, chimaera said:

If you changed the oil filter, did you fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before fitting it? If not then you will lose a small amount on the dipstick from filling it. There are probably other nooks and crannies inside the oil galleries that might have emptied when you drained the oil and it can take a few minutes running for them to refill. Likewise oil stored in the valve followers.

 

Over time you will burn a small amount of oil so that would also account for a drop in level over time. An increase in oil level over time as someone said earlier implies diesel getting into the oil, usually as a result of interrupted regeneration of the DPF.

 

It was a little lower this morning. I extracted a little though to make it perfect at the top of the hatching on the dipstick. It's interesting about the interrupted regens, as I interrupted one (unknowingly, saw it happened on the scanner) a few days back. Maybe that explains why it was higher in level than before. Whatever the case, it's now correct.

[simannjo]

1 hour ago, snowathlete said:

 

It was a little lower this morning. I extracted a little though to make it perfect at the top of the hatching on the dipstick. It's interesting about the interrupted regens, as I interrupted one (unknowingly, saw it happened on the scanner) a few days back. Maybe that explains why it was higher in level than before. Whatever the case, it's now correct.

 

Know your car like you know your partner... and all the drama is the same if you get it wrong.

 

A regen is not gonna make a difference to the oil level. The 'theorists' are correct in theory,  but its just not gonna happen.

Over fueling can make the oil level higher, but in your case, (modern fuel controlled diesel)... no.

 

We ARE going back to the iron age by measuring oil level by nothing more than a stick. But...

Its important, but not by any means as much as some make us think.

Blast down lots of  motorways on the minimum oil level (by the dipstick) and you'll be fine...

 

However...

Some of us care a bit more than a guess.

And the dipstick is a way of us getting past the guess.

If its more than minimum - and on 'good' oil... - Crack on!

 

[chimaera]

14 minutes ago, simannjo said:

A regen is not gonna make a difference to the oil level. The 'theorists' are correct in theory,  but its just not gonna happen.

 

 

Repeated interrupted regens causing oil level to increase are enough of a problem that Skoda have issued a technical bulletin to dealers on the matter. So it's not just a 'theory', it's happening in the real world to real cars.

[simannjo]

6 minutes ago, chimaera said:

"technical bulletin"

?... Evidence?

Not saying your're wrong... I love being educated.

If its happening, its happening.

Its better that every driver that's interested knows about it before they go into a stealership...

Edited 26 January, 2018 by simannjo

[simannjo]

Pressed enter before i should have!

[chimaera]

Quote

Technical product information Transaction No.: 2038428/1
Service information: DPF regeneration impossible / increased engine oil level

Release date: 03-Oct-2014

 

[simannjo]

30 minutes ago, chimaera said:

 

Thanks for the 'clickable' link...

If Google doesn't know, I... (the average driver) doesn't know...

 

[chimaera]

VAG make all of their technical documentation available through erWin. Here's your clickable link: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

 

Here's another clickable link: https://www.google.ie/search?q=oil+dilution+diesel+dpf&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gws_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=n6hrWqCAManUgAbW36fgCQ

 

 

[DEL80Y]

2 hours ago, simannjo said:

A regen is not gonna make a difference to the oil level. The 'theorists' are correct in theory,  but its just not gonna happen.

Completely wrong I have a Vauxhall Meriva 1.2 CDTi which is terrible for this problem so much so that they can fill up with diesel/oil and feed the engine until it goes into  a "run away" situation..
I had to stop my wife using it as the distance to her work was just enough to get to the correct temp to start an Active Regen and would always be switched off way before it completed meaning the next time she drove it would try again and again and again constantly filling up the sump with diesel to the point where I would have to suction some out to stop terminal damage.