6 minutes ago, Dooge said:

My 2 pence, its not worth buying a 2nd hand part as itll go the same way. The boards burn out because the rear light also goes through the front light when the door is opened. When I replaced my Golf light (very similar unit) approx 4 years ago it was £65 for a brand new part. Id estimate £85-£90 now if Skoda can supply them and you'll get the right one for the car.

You may want to sit down for this...

 

21 minutes ago, CapitalRibs said:

I have a 2013 2.0 tdi with the broken/burnt out switch issue. 

 

Spoke to a breakers. £60 Inc vat and p&p on the whole part.... Sounds good but the breaker car has stuff that mine doesn't (sunroof etc.) 

 

Not sure how to approach this!

Get a picture of your exiting, or better still take it out and look for the part number on it.

 

In the above example for my car, found it on fleabay for £42.50

1 minute ago, varooom said:

You may want to sit down for this...

 

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F*ck a duck! Thats escalated a little bit!! Maybe a second hand one is a cheaper option but I still believe it will go eventually. 

 

LED bulbs also help as they draw far less power than regular bulbs.

1 minute ago, Dooge said:

F*ck a duck! Thats escalated a little bit!! Maybe a second hand one is a cheaper option but I still believe it will go eventually. 

 

LED bulbs also help as they draw far less power than regular bulbs.

Mine have LED front and rear already for that reason, so recommend anyone swapping out the dingy yellow bulbs if possible.

The amount of heat the normal bulbs produce is insane.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but on a related note, considering swapping out the interior light bulbs for LED ones. Is there any special considerations I need to take into account i.e. coding, Cambus compatibility, other modifications to make sure they work as intended etc.? 

3 minutes ago, hhcd80 said:

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but on a related note, considering swapping out the interior light bulbs for LED ones. Is there any special considerations I need to take into account i.e. coding, Cambus compatibility, other modifications to make sure they work as intended etc.? 

I dont think interior bulbs suffer the same error faults as alot of outer lights. I used some Halfords bog standard cap LED bulbs, you dont really need the huge multi chip bulbs as itll just become blinding inside. The Halfords ones are cheap, seem reliable and fit well.

On 16/12/2022 at 09:57, varooom said:

Get a picture of your exiting, or better still take it out and look for the part number on it.

 

In the above example for my car, found it on fleabay for £42.50

 

Any guide or tips on how to remove the entire unit? I've got mine "opened up" where I can see the circuit board for the switch etc but would like to remove the entire unit and try to repair

35 minutes ago, smokinmonkey said:

Any guide or tips on how to remove the entire unit? I've got mine "opened up" where I can see the circuit board for the switch etc but would like to remove the entire unit and try to repair

I've not had to remove mine yet from the car.  Busy today, hard to reply with snippet from workshop manual.

48 minutes ago, smokinmonkey said:

 

Any guide or tips on how to remove the entire unit? I've got mine "opened up" where I can see the circuit board for the switch etc but would like to remove the entire unit and try to repair

From memory from my Golf light, there is a panel that is removed/clips down and theres 2 Torx bolts. The other end of the light has 2 hooks which slide into the headliner.

 

Theres definitely Youtube videos for removal.

15 minutes ago, Dooge said:

From memory from my Golf light, there is a panel that is removed/clips down and theres 2 Torx bolts. The other end of the light has 2 hooks which slide into the headliner.

 

Theres definitely Youtube videos for removal.

Yeah this is right, there's a real detailed link here, also read somewhere that the led lights do still get hot and can be a bit bigger so position needs to be considered, not sure how much freedom there is...

 

Please do report back here with progress, my ultimate goal is to repair the fault, then replace bulbs with diodes. I'm following closely! 

 

Any advice on bulbs or fitting/coding (no code better for me!) would be appreciated. Also worth considering, as the front and rear interior lights run through the same rig, both sets should be replaced to reduce that current running through the crappy board in the main unit (just my hunch challenge welcome). 

 

 

Hi I have had this same issue for a few months. Thanks for the help. I managed to fix this by following the guide into the dodgy contacts.

 

I too found that just cleaning the contacts wasnt enough. Then I realised that the contacts had degraded/diminished and now instead of the pin resting on the contacts, it was resting on a bit of the circuit board. I got a Stanley knife out and chopped off a corner of superfluous circuitboard next to the contacts and now the pin touches the contacts and the circuit now works. I made sure to only cut circuitboard that didnt have metal underneath it.

 

Hope this helps someone. As the advice helped me fix it I thought I'd  Make an account to spread my titbit about chopping off the circuitboard.

The red square below is the bit I chopped off. That helped the pin to touch the contacts

20 hours ago, jonnykoda said:

 I managed to fix this by following the guide into the dodgy contacts.

Thanks so much, will take a look at mine at some point. 

Interestingly my mum has a vw golf with exactly the same interior light unit and exactly the same problem (both failed at about 100k miles). I managed to fix her car using the same method although i cant confirm if it was cleaning the contacts or chopping off the circuitboard that was the solution on my mums car as I didnt test inbetween steps.

Hello i have an issue with the interior lights of a octavia from 2015 that when i open the door the interior light doesn't work but if i press the individual bottom the light works and in the dash board show then open door,someone told me that it was related with the fact that the fuel actuator doesn't  close the small  fuel door and since they are all connected   with the other door it interrupts the circuit, so i bought another actuator and installed and now the door all close but the interior lights continues to not working. What  should i do for the lights to work, thanks in advance.

 

Hi mate. I had this same issue 

 

You can confirm the actuator is ok by checking on your dash if it registers doors open or closed. Also if its 1 door only it's likely to be an actuator but if it's all doors the it might be the interior light unit (on the roof)

 

I took apart the interior light unit in the roof following the steps above. There was corrosion on the circuitboard which you can test with a multimeter. I cleaned the contacts and cut off a small square of board that was inhibiting the mechanism. Or for a more expensive option you could replace light unit.

And does anyone knows what is the fuse  for the interior lights ?

2 hours ago, rmsf said:

And does anyone knows what is the fuse  for the interior lights ?

https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk3-5e-2013-2016-fuse-box-diagram

Hi to all who responded to the interior light's' switching faults.

I have the same on my 14 reg Octavia 1.4 TSI SE.  I am tempted to dive into the switch and clean-up/resolder connections, as accessible, but the car is under warranty as a Skoda "Approved Vehicle", so I will return the car to Skoda agent for repair and report back on any details that I can glean from he Skoda electrician. I hope that the unit will be replaced.

Regards Lojong

OOPs!!!  Re post on interior lights. Apologies, I forgot to mention that my MK2 Elegance was replaced a few months ago when the dual-mass flywheel became faulty that's another story.

Lojong

Found a solution to this. It's just a switch so just solder a link from the centre solder point (on the above picture from other member) to either solder point on side where looks rusted. The interior lights will work as normal but will not be able to work in off(0) position. i.e. can't turn off. So light will always come on when door is opened. Hope this helps.

Same problem again ,light not coming on when doors,open only done 54k.

mine does get used more than most as it’s used as a private hire car

I have ordered a second hand one of eBay for £40 but there’s no say in how long it’ll last 

whats the best site to use for buying new Skoda parts ?

On 16/12/2022 at 09:53, varooom said:

You may want to sit down for this...

 

Which website did you get this from , thanks ? 

I just thought I'd add my experience with this problem. As others have described, the interior lights started to become intermittent, and eventually failing altogether in the 'door open' position. They always worked in the 'on' position. I noticed that pressing the switch lightly would make them come on with the door open. Which is no use in the dark when you can't see the switch! And sure enough, the switch was corroded and/or burnt, and was never going to make a good circuit.

 

So, inspired by L9ppy's post:

 

On 16/11/2023 at 20:49, L9ppy said:

Found a solution to this. It's just a switch so just solder a link from the centre solder point (on the above picture from other member) to either solder point on side where looks rusted. The interior lights will work as normal but will not be able to work in off(0) position. i.e. can't turn off. So light will always come on when door is opened. Hope this helps.

 

I found myself a short length of wire, and soldered to the pins as described, and as these photos. Works perfectly now! And it still works in the off and on positions too, contrary to what L9ppy says. Maybe I've used a different pin?

1 hour ago, JeremyS said:

I just thought I'd add my experience with this problem. As others have described, the interior lights started to become intermittent, and eventually failing altogether in the 'door open' position. They always worked in the 'on' position. I noticed that pressing the switch lightly would make them come on with the door open. Which is no use in the dark when you can't see the switch! And sure enough, the switch was corroded and/or burnt, and was never going to make a good circuit.

 

So, inspired by L9ppy's post:

 

 

I found myself a short length of wire, and soldered to the pins as described, and as these photos. Works perfectly now! And it still works in the off and on positions too, contrary to what L9ppy says. Maybe I've used a different pin?

Well done mate. I ended up selling my MK3 vrs. Miss it every day. Got a Supberb 272 now it's a fun boat.