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Haldex Oil Change


Lincol

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I have a 2014 Yeti 2.0 140bhp 4x4 "Tour D France" and am getting complete confused regards the Haldex oil change in the back axle.

The car has now covered 30,000 miles and I believe the Haldex oil should be changed ?

Two questions, can I do it myself as I am quite hands on and secondly, which is giving me headaches, is there also a Haldex filter to change or not ?, there are so many conflicting reports and I would like a definitive answer.

Thank you in advance.

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It depends if it is a 4th generation or 5th.

Apparently 4th has a filter but VW/Skoda don’t accept this and do not change or clean it during the service, and I have seen people claiming the Haldex failed due to blocked filter after a service.

Latest has a gauze filter which can easily be cleaned whilst pump is out to drain oil. Hopefully garage would do that, but it looks an easy diy job to put in fresh oil.

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You can change the oil yourself OK, I did mine, bit fiddly and you'll need some kind of syringe & length of pipe to refill, but not too bad if you can get the back of the car high enough up to work underneath.

Just make sure you use the right drain/fill points (ie don't drain the rear diff by mistake and fill with Haldex fluid....the diff and Haldex coupling are in the same lump of metal but the fluids are separated internally.

 

Yes the filter is replaceable, have a look on haldexrepairs.co.uk, think they sell the filter and they also have a very handy guide on how to remove it.

The procedure involves loosening the bolts holding the filter in, then using VCDS to run the pump which pops the filter out.

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The 5th generation one is apparently drained by removing the entire pump mechanism, not undoing a drain screw. This means cleaning the gauze is also obvious as comes out with the motor. Looks a very simple operation, apart from having to drive the car a couple of miles, then rechecking level.

 

Presumably the car needs to be level to check the oil level, so really needs to be on a lift, rather than up on ramps at rear; that is my only difficulty.

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My car has Haldex 5. It's quite easy to see that, whereas the Haldex 4 vehicles have a filter - you can see where it fits - the same is not true of mine, which definitely doesn't have a separate filter. Just a gauze filter at the pump inlet. So just have a look, it will be obvious whether you have a filter or not. If in doubt go onto ERWIN (cost ~8 euros for an hour) and having put your VIN in, you will be able to see how to change the Haldex fluid in detail, there are good diagrams and a description of eg the drain and fill plugs in the maintenance manual. As mentioned, the drain and fill for the rear diff is in the same lump of metal and you don't want to choose the wrong ones!

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58 minutes ago, kenfowler3966 said:

The 5th generation one is apparently drained by removing the entire pump mechanism, not undoing a drain screw. This means cleaning the gauze is also obvious as comes out with the motor. Looks a very simple operation, apart from having to drive the car a couple of miles, then rechecking level.

 

Presumably the car needs to be level to check the oil level, so really needs to be on a lift, rather than up on ramps at rear; that is my only difficulty.

Interestingly the maintenance manual shows the oil being drained from the drain plug, and refilled from the filling plug. It doesn't mention removing the pump to clean the gauze/filter, but that is obviously a good idea. I doubt a dealer would do that though, they would just to what it says in the manual!

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If it's a Gen 4, then there are two filters as stated above: one a gauze filter attached to the pump, and one on the top of the unit.

It's easy to get the filter element on the top out just by loosening the two screws so the top alloy cap can lift, and then turn the ignition on briefly - the filter will pop up under hydraulic pressure, but is contained by the alloy cap and the two set screws. Just keep everything very clean when disturbing things.

Gen 4 units create pressure when "ignition" first live, generate sufficient pressure in the accumulator to run the unit straight away without delay, and act as a buffer when the unit is busy/active. The pump will shut down at the required pressure and start/stop during use to keep the pressure in the accumulator within it's operating limits.

 

Gen 5 is basically the same, but when Borg Warner bought Haldex, they got rid of certain things like the accumulator/ filter etc and ran the pump as required (American view to cheapen production with fewer components)

 

I use a Volvo filter which is much cheaper +/- £30.00 ish.  

 

Lots of history if you search here.

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Hi Guys, Thankyou for your replies, the situation is having obtained several wildly different prices for doing the Haldex oil change from Skoda dealers, the conclusion having looked at the rear diff myself and talking to Skoda UK who were very helpful, concluded that there is no filter to replace and the operation is simply to replace the oil. I have identified the filling and drain plugs, both of which are accessible without to much stress. I may use a large syringe to refill oil once drained, as the filling hole is a bit awkward.

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It's on the Škoda website as approximately £65.  

If you are happy to pay that price, but the dealer is charging more, quote it and see if they'll match it. 

 

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  • 6 months later...

Hi, On my 2014 Yeti I used G060 175 A2, no filters, bit fiddly used a large syringe.

Spoke to Skoda UK, confirmed no filters.

Good luck

Edited by Lincol
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I thought there was a link to a topic on youtube  that I saw showing the (non existent) vw filter part numbers to use and how to replace them and how to do it.

Edited by Sad555
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1 hour ago, Frenchtone said:

mine  will be done tomorrow (by an independent vw garage, used to be vw but trade dropped off), haldex 4, I hope to be able to watch the operation, so will report back later!

Which oil do you have?

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/g055175a1-haldex-clutch-oil-skoda-13625.html

 

Filter is that:

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/0br598574fil-haldex-clutch-oil-filter-skoda-26750.html

 

 

Think G060 175 A2, is same as G055 only smaller package. 0.8L instead 1L 

same oil can be used.. bexause 0.75 is volume in haldex. 

think it is same oil

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113212276825

 

half price

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113212276825

 

It is the SAME OIL as vag original (with vag oem sticker)

 

 

20180924_190332.jpg

20180924_190228.jpg

Edited by imart143
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oil  g 055 175 a2

 

filter as per photo + top plastic mounting and alloy cover and screws

the idea was to do the stuff in a chums garage on a small vehicle lift, however, he exchanged the lift for a fergy tractor!

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Ok stupidity rules, work not done, not shown in ERWIN re Haldex, Skoda garage no idea, explains why it wasn't done when car in for service at around 42k miles and also when I called at my local, now closed, Skoda dealership to request oil change in Haldex etc  -  was told it is sealed for life(like the diff!).

I wonder how many 4x4's fail in France because of this policy?

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I am in doubt if oil in my haldex ever changed, i never i service book dont see note. Now have 190000 kms and preparing to change oil, maybe filter too.. but it is working. No fails or errors. Everything works good. Tryed on off road. Very stable. So haldex works properly.. i am not surprised someone says it is filled for life.

80W90 in diff can be filled for life but i am preparing to change it too. It is not expensive. 10$ liter..

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Things tend to work until they fail, which is why there is Preventative Servicing & Maintenance, and Guidelines or Schedules.

Prevent the failure which can be costly and dangerous.

 

Sadly those that get Haldex draining and Diff draining mixed up & the fluids wrong can have a perfectly good working car blow the diff.

As has happened to members here going to some establishment with all the gear and techs with not much between the ears.

  • Like 1
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I read that it has all the connections built in to give our fault warning NHL’s but they have not been connected to the cars system. Hence there are no fault lights if not working or even records of faults when checked?

The pnly way to know it is actually engaging Drive is to see the wheels working. First time I was able to confirm mine was ok was when reversing through some mud and the rear wheels spun and put mud onto the sills.

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