Hello

 

Wondered if anyone can help?

 

I owned by Skoda Felicia for the past 9 years and I must say it has been fab, really reliable and it is a head turner.

Had a problem on the car last week and not 100% sure what problem is so any help and assistance will be appreciated.

 

Main issues with the car is:

* Stalling when idle/parked

* Stalling when car is driving slowly and the accelerator pedal is not being used

* Also there was a noticeable heavy pull back when accelerating

 

Called out AA and they seem to think it could be either be:

* the crank position sensor

* or the full pump

* also spoke to someone who said it maybe a blockage in the carburetor jets

 

I know the location of the crank position sensor and the full pump but do not know where the carburetor jets are.

 

Any ideas what the problem maybe before I start buying an expensive fuel pump for a 21 year old car.

 

 

Hi,

Is your engine the 1.3 with a carburetor ?

Did you already check for the vaccum hoses ?

Did you check the Throttle body ?

Edited 30 May, 20188 yr by nimbus

I had to look back to your other post to find out what type of Felicia you have for start. Being a head turner didn't help. Neither did "We recently celebrated the car's 1000k millage..."

So how about telling us the engine displacement (cm3), engine code, and mileage ?

Hi Ricardo

Apologies for not including more details I'm new to this.

I have taken the following from my car registration document and also included a photo of the engine.

Hope you are able to help.

 

Skoda Felicia LXI

1289 cc

 2-Axle-Rigid Body

 Date of first registration 12/11/1997

 

Engine number: 2649740/781/136M

 

Mileage: 101789

So it is a 1.3 liter MPI, 136M engine from 1997. Some 100k miles (not 1000k, otherwise the car would be in the book of records).

 

Given the mileage and aluminum oxide deposits on the rockers cover, I'd say it is a classic case of dirty throttle body and/or dirty MAP sensor. Nothing major, no need to change parts. Just cleaning carbon and oil deposits.

 

How proficient are you in auto mechanics? 

Thanks Ricardo for your speedy response and correction in the mileage, my husband's math is not his strong point!

However, he did recently change the alternator (as you can see in the bottom of the picture) which is the biggest mechanical job he has done to date but he is always willing to try.

 

If you are able to give clear explanation or links of what we need to do we will definitely give it a go.

 

The AA man did try to clean the crank position sensor to see if that would resolve the problem but it didn't make any difference.

 

Are you able to indicate whereabouts is the MAP sensor on this vehicle so we can attempt to clean?

Many thanks

This is a photo of the back of the engine that shows both parts that need cleaning. They should be unbolted from the engine first. Remove connectors, cables, and hoses attached to them. Where in doubt, take a photo before removing them.

 

The MAP sensor - clean it very gently by spraying brake/carburetor cleaner to remove any oily residues.

 

The throttle body (TB) - clean the inside with brake/carburetor cleaner and a tooth brush or similar. Remove any carbon/oily deposits until it's spotless. Inspect the hoses attached to it for cracks, clean them. Inspect the gasket under the TB.

 

Install both parts. Reconnect everything in reverse order. Now comes the tricky part. You have to do what's called "reset of the TB". You need a special VAG-COM cable attached to a laptop on one side and to diagnostic socket on the other side. Maybe a forum member could help you with that. Here is some info.

Have anyone adjusted valve clearance on it? These cars don't have hydraulic tappets, so valve clearance have to be set manually every ~10k miles.

No-one has adjusted the value clearance since we have owned it - how to we do this?

 

We  have owned this car since 2009 and done a mere 27k miles on it.

Hi Ricardo

 

Thanks for your diagram and explanation, it is much appreciatee.

 

For starters is it OK/worthwhile if we just clean MAP sensor without having to do a '"reset of the TB".

 

Also should we use a clean piece of cloth or tissue to clean the MAP sensor.

 

We can then work out how are going to "reset the TB"

 

We have not been using the Skoda because of this issue.

Ricardo's post from other topic will help you :). If valve clearence is off, it can cause rough idle, in extreme case bad power output.

Edited 1 June, 20188 yr by Papez

10 hours ago, R2-82 said:

For starters is it OK/worthwhile if we just clean MAP sensor without having to do a '"reset of the TB".

Sure. Use a cotton bud if necessary.

Below there are two videos that should give you an idea about cleaning. It's similar for Felicia.

 

 

11 hours ago, R2-82 said:

No-one has adjusted the value clearance since we have owned it - how to we do this?

There is this forum section: Classic Skoda Guides with lots of repair/maintenance guides written or collected by me and other members. You'll find the valve adjustment guide too.

Thanks ever so much Ricardo for your links and guides you are a legend.

 

Will give you an update when we do the work.

It would be interesting to take detail photos of before/after cleaning. Use camera flash.

Hi again,

 

We cleaned the MAP sensor – though having removed and inspected it, it did look relatively clean when we took it off (see photo 1). We used a cotton wool bud and some cleaning spray solution (tetrachloride type) to clean around the sensor.  It was a very small space to insert the bud fully around the sensor but we gently cleaned the inner areas we could access without forcing it.

 

We also put back the crankshaft sensor that the AA man had removed and cleaned.  Again, this looked pretty clean, however we did notice that there appeared to  be a little bit of damage to the magnetic(?) – see attached photo 2 & 3. 

 

We then cranked the car up and it started ok, and ran idle (with a few revs) for about 8 minutes and then stalled.  We then couldn’t get it started again immediately (the engine was trying to turn but it would not start), so left it about 30 minutes and retried. It started, but again stalled after a very brief period of idling.  Once again it failed to re-start immediately after the stall.

 

I failed to mention that when we initially had this problem the car would stop working when we were not accelerating, and after that it would not start again for approx 30 minutes.

 

I guess the key thoughts that stem from this exercise is:

 

1) Does the crankshaft sensor look like the culprit now that we’ve posted the photo?

 

2) Could the MAP sensor still be the problem despite our (novice) attempts at cleaning?

 

Thanks again for any advice.

Well, I think the MAP sensor cleaning went well.

The CPS should not look damaged at all. What we see on it are marks from hitting the flywheel. That is an issue and the sensor should be replaced with the best/original one you can find.

 

That may or may not solve the engine stall issue. Go for cleaning the throttle body.

Hi Ricardo

 

Thanks for your super quick reply it is really much appreciated.

 

The crankshaft sensor l have found in the UK are:-

 

Valeo Make

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-VALEO-Crankshaft-Pulse-Sensor-254126-Top-Quality/192493982791?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l9372

 

OR

 

Claiming to be Genuine Skoda part shipped from Poland

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-ORIGINAL-CRANKSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-SKODA-FAVORIT-FELICIA-1-3-047907319A/180835113226?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l9372

 

I called the local Skoda dealer today and they advised this part is obsolete so I am surprised you can buy a 'genuine part'

 

Which one would you recommend we purchase and will it make a huge difference in it working properly if we brought the Valeo part?

 

There are other available on ebay and I just chosen the one with lots of reviews/sales.

 

Thanks again and again for any advice you are able to give.

You can go with the one made by Valeo (Spain) or with this one for a fiver more.

@R2-82 - This is an explanation, not a recommendation to buy a part from $source.

 

There is such a thing as "new old stock" which simply means that it's a new part that's been sat in someone's stock room since before the part was obsoleted. I would expect such a part to be in OEM packaging (trickier to check that with stuff from Poland).

The throttle body can be cleaned without removing it from the engine and needing a reset
Just unplug the battery (in case the servo decides to eat ur hand) and go in there with some tb cleaner and do the trick BE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD
Dont mess around too much with the map u might destroy it its very delicate
Also check the thermostat the one that sends data to the ecu
The cps should be replaced but you should investigate the reason that it got hit in the first place
Also check the spark plug coil assebly if its swollen it might have but capacitors
Also check the lamda sensor
Gennerally when i had problems with my felly i always did a full sensor check because its a skoda
Mine had a suprisgly high idle and it was running kinda lean and belive or not it was a vaccum leak so check for those also
Hope i helpeddddd

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

The throttle body can be cleaned without removing it from the engine and needing a reset

It can be cleaned in situ but with poor results. As for 'without reset', that is a mistake.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Also check the spark plug coil assebly if its swollen it might have but capacitors

A swollen coil assembly?? Bad capacitors?? That is not an old board on a TV set.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Also check the lamda sensor

Why in this case? Apart from being the most replaced part by mechanics for whatever reason, usually with no results.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Gennerally when i had problems with my felly i always did a full sensor check because its a skoda

Because it's a Skoda... Really? For your information, many if not all sensors on Skoda Felicia are made in Germany. What has Skoda to do with it? Don't you think your broad observation is in fact short sighted?

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Mine had a suprisgly high idle and it was running kinda lean and belive or not it was a vaccum leak

Nothing 'believe it or not'. It's common. Unmetered air does erratic idle, high or low. That is why I mentioned to look for cracks in hoses and gasket under the throttle body.

2 hours ago, RicardoM said:

Bad capacitors

Also @Thefeliciahacker

 

The last time I saw a capacitor in a car ignition system it was the 1980s and the part was attached to a Kettering arc distributor!

some coil ignition systems have capacitors and they do get swollen sadly i dont have this spark plug assebly to photograph it
Sensor check and cleaning is very important for cars with no self learning ecus and the felly being a skoda (with no such ecu) this is especially true
As far as for the reset i would have to agree that it has TO BE DONE but if you dont remove you can leave without doing it
And no you wont get poor results if u are methodic u can clean it exceptionally well
The lamba sensor may be responsible for this as you know better than me a lot of the time they are showcasing weird voltages even if they aint supposed to 

@Thefeliciahacker - OK, I've remembered using a small (low capacitance) capacitor attached to a coil LT terminal back in the day. Its function was to stop a "tap tap tap..." noise being heard on the radio. It had no effect on the running of the engine.