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Tips: Fabia Tips


ColinD

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WASHER PIPES -

For one reason or another be it blocked jets or frozen fluid you may find your rear washer stops working. A few simple checks will lead you to the cause in a few minutes...

Operate the rear washer, can you hear the pump running? If not check the fuses, there are a couple that can effect both the wiper and the washer. If the fuse is ok then read on.

Is there water in the bottle? If yes can you see it coming out somewhere?

If it is by.....

Left hand front by the wheel - The pipe has come off by the pump itself, turn the steering onto right hand lock and remove a few of the liner screws, pull back and pop the pipe back on (if used when frozen sometimes the pump can come apart, it will need a new one).

Front/middle of the car underneath - The pipe has come off at the bulkhead area, just behind the ABS unit if you have one, needs a good click back into place.

Left hand side of boot - Bit tricky to see this one, usually the one I look for if all the others appear ok, remove the boot carpet and put pipe back on.

Tailgate - Pipe comes off the wiper motor, you can tell as there will be water dripping on your head. Remove the tailgate trim and refit pipe. Then spend half hour trying to figure out how to put the trim back on, dont worry your not mad they are a right pig.

If all these appear ok then have a look at the jet itself, sometimes get corroded and bunged up, try a pin down it to clear it.

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Further to Lummox's last...

Skoda have also been putting the aft rear hose coupling forward of the rear nearside arch, (instead of in the boot area), Under the trim that is next to the door seal.

It is very hard to spot if this coupling has come off - generally the pressure from the rear jet does not go down much as the escaping water is still directed down the disconnected pipe due to it's tight location.

How ever the rear left carpet will get wet.

This is usually put down to leaking rear door ancilliary carriers, or door seals, so this connection is sometimes overlooked.

To get to the coupling, the trim between the rear seat and the rear nearside door seal needs to be removed. If it has been disconnected it may be worth making sure it doesn't come undone here again with the assistance of tape or glue.

(Do no glue the more accessable ones as the couplings were put in to prevent damage caused by ice forming).

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Don't forget to switch the heated mirrors OFF when you've used them. The switch needs to be in the 'UP' or 'DOWN' position once the mirrors are clear, as the central position is heating the mirrors constantly. :thumbup:

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Check out the operation manual (boring I know) for your Stereo. You'll be amazed how many features are on there that come in handy. There is an option on the vRS H/U to switch on a 'flashing led' (play button) for added visible security.

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Following on from the rear wash/wipe tips, can anyone explain why there is a delay before the water comes out on mine these days?

It used to be that the water came out a second or so before the wiper started moving, and sprayed with enough pressure to hit the underside of the spoiler. Now, the pump starts when I push the lever, but the water doesn't come out until the wiper moves. The spray only reaches to about 2" below the top of the screen also. I've checked for leaks (none that I can see), but if it's not that, the only other thing I can think of is that I've got some air trapped in the system somewhere.

Any ideas?

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Have you tried completely emptying the washer tank ? I had a similar problem with my previous car and I sprayed the screen until the bottle was empty. Then re-filled the resevoir and it worked fine. NOTE - Don't run the washer motor for long periods when it's empty. It relies on the cold water to cool it and will burn out quickly.

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The headlights are polycarbonate, not glass, so NEVER use anything abrasive (not even a washing-up sponge) to get the bugs off them - just a cloth soaked with warm water. They will scratch, and it takes hours of polishing with Brasso to get the marks out!

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Probably the most important tip for any car is to read the Handbook IN FULL.

It does seem a little boring (and is) but it will give you a wealth of knowledge that you didn't before.

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If you find the front pasenger seat belt clasp rattles just use the top end of a sock to provide some padding.

Washing the piece of sock before use is generally advised!!!

Or you could simply give the rear ash tray a tug to reveal 2 torx screws. Loosen them, apply some pressure on the centre console to move it slightly towards the drivers seat, hold it there and retighten the screws :thumbup:

Also, the glovebox had a false floor, lift this up to reveal a nifty hideaway cubby :thumbup:

Just under the lighting switch there is a coke can sized cubby hole. Just pull it down. There is also a pull switch to turn the venitlation on to cool this cubby! This cubby if pulled down with a sharp tug will reveal the OBD2 port for diagnostics and one-clicks to plug into.

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If your intermittant wipers stop working shut the bonnet.

Why is that Lummox? The first day of owning a Fabia and mine failed on intermittent and I thought here we go.... But when I got home I found the bonnet

not fully closed.

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There is a switch on the bonnet lock to stop you operating the wipers with the bonnet open.

Cheers, but why no indication on the dash?

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after you take delivery of your new fabia vrs , i would take the wheels off (or get a garage to do it if not confident/competant) and copper slip the hubs where the wheels mount to stop corrosion and seized on wheels , as its a pig of a job to get them off in dark , when its raining , on the hard shoulder of the motorway ,even the AA might thank you if you have to call them out to change the wheel .

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On my 1.4 8V, the dash lights aren't always accurate. Sometimes they seem to be like that fairground machine where you bash one down and another pops up.

It seems to survive by my checking all levels and anything you would normally check before embarking on a long journey. As every car is different, it's worth checking on here what the possible causes might be.

Edit: This thread has related information: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/fabia/engine-oil-pressure-warning-light/27539/

Mo

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  • 2 weeks later...
Probably the most important tip for any car is to read the Handbook IN FULL.

It does seem a little boring (and is) but it will give you a wealth of knowledge that you didn't before.

have just bought a 2nd hand fabia - unfortunately no handbook involved; anyone help me with locating one? it's a 2000 1.4 comfort if that helps...

cheers!

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  • 2 weeks later...
have just bought a 2nd hand fabia - unfortunately no handbook involved; anyone help me with locating one? it's a 2000 1.4 comfort if that helps...

cheers!

Hi

I have a 1.4 mpi 8V and the handbook ref is S54.5610.04.20.

Aside from ebay' date=' Amazon etc, it's shown here on this site www.Skoda.co.uk which says that a Fabia handbook can be ordered through your local Skoda retailer.

It's also available here (See page 39) from this site http://www.jhmbuttco.com at

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  • 2 weeks later...

Those of you who can't be botherd to read the manual try holding the key in the door lock in the unlock position, if you have factory fitted elecy windows, its a great way to cool the car down without having to get inside! ;) new octy's & surperbs are remote! Great for showing off!

Matt

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The steering angle sensor is covered in to a 4th year of warranty.

Head Gasket on the older 1.4 8v`s is covered in to a 5th (IIRC)

Sarah

Really? My mate has a 1.4 MPI with a head gasket gone at 67k miles... he only wants a grand for it on a 51 plate! :rubchin:

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