ARB bush clonk issue. Newish bushes

[TMB]

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

See the edit above, also I guarantee you that if you fit a bush to a wishbone you'll be able to twist it easily with your hand, a few pounds of force, let alone 300kg acting on the end of the wishbone.

Think about it harder before calling bull****.

 

You're still talking rubbish. The hexagonal spigot fits tightly in the bush. You don't like admitting you're wrong do you.

 

rum4mo, just fit the bushes as Darkside said and you'll be fine.

 

[sepulchrave]

3 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

You're still talking rubbish. The hexagonal spigot fits tightly in the bush. You don't like admitting you're wrong do you.

 

rum4mo, just fit the bushes as Darkside said and you'll be fine.

 

 

I actually have a set of these I fitted so I know what to expect, if you fit the bushes with the arrow up the pivot slides into the hex with the wishbone on full sag, that way when the weight is back on the wheels the hex sits halfway at the point of least resistance, gripped tightly but able to move freely up or down.

[bmbmdmb]

59 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

fit the bushes with the arrow up

Yes, why else would there be an arrow if it were not to be used?

 

There is not a lot in it between the arrow position and the nearest flat being horizontal position.

 

Thanks all. 

Ps don't fall out on this. 

[sepulchrave]

2 minutes ago, bmbmdmb said:

Yes, why else would there be an arrow if it were not to be used?

 

There is not a lot in it between the arrow position and the nearest flat being horizontal position.

 

Thanks all. 

Ps don't fall out on this. 

 

We're not falling out, don't worry.

I really don't think it's critical because there aren't any voids to worry about so performance should be the same in any position and there's no way the wishbone moves sixty degrees anyway, I just fitted them like that, the pivots went in easily and I've had no trouble from them in nearly ten years, they show no signs of wear and tear at all.

[TMB]

Did you decide to ditch your PSB bushes, Sep?

[sepulchrave]

11 minutes ago, TMB said:

Did you decide to ditch your PSB bushes, Sep?

 

They're on the 2.0, the 1.4 has the Cupra bushes, my sister in law has it now.

[TMB]

Ah, I see.

[bmbmdmb]

I fitted the Cupra bushes today. One side was a pain to push in despite sanding console and lubing, taking over an hour, not wanting to overtorque the threaded bar and bearings in thrust nut. Other side took 10 mins. Anyone worried about them dropping out shouldn't be.

 

Refitting wishbone is a real pain. The ratchet strap is a must and worked, but the Powerflex front wishbone bushes are too snug. I checked their fitment before fitting other bushes and anticipated this, but even with aid of wood and hammer and lube they don't want to push in laterally, no more than one third of way.

 

I've clamped them in a g clamp overnight but the metal tube bridging them only allows so much pressure. 

 

I might have to sand down subframe where they fit. Any suggestions? 

 

Btw the bush tool only allowed the Cupra bush to be pressed in until metal collar is level with front of the rear console, the solid rubber is, however, recessed in the console.  The wishbone sticks out rear of hex however. 

The Nielsen kit lacks a 2nd nut to brace it, in opposition, and relies on friction of one of the press tools on the rubber. I nearly used wrong insertion disc , expecting it to press on the aluminium metal collar rather than the rubber. 

 

Any suggestions on refitting wishbone? Thanks

Edited 25 April, 2019 by bmbmdmb

[sepulchrave]

Use a big pry bar to open up the subframe slightly to ease the clearance for the wishbone, then when you tighten the bolt it'll close up nice and tight.

[bmbmdmb]

The pry bar nearly worked. I decided to rig up a mixture of the newly bought bush tool and my other bush kit. It pushed the Cupra bush further back, allowing it to be flush at rear of console. The driver's side only pushed back a few mm and is 4mm short of rear of console. It needed some serious torque to get any movement.

Will this affect camber or castor?

 

The car is back on road and test driven. The car is firmer, in a good way, over speed bumps and in general. 

As for vibrations, I only got something around 1300 rpm as I was letting speed bleed off in 3rd. It was not an issue.

The big but is, I got a clunk previously posted about on nearside. I'm out of ideas. It occurs when there is a lot of suspension movement.

 

Could it be a faulty new shock I installed last August. Passed mot last Feb no issues.

 

I changed inner track rod ends also, so it's not this.

 

 

 

 

Edited 27 April, 2019 by bmbmdmb

[bmbmdmb]

I checked top mount nut again. All tight. Jacked front end up, bump stop on problem side had rub marks and difficult to pull down, like it had been forced up, compared to other side. I have now twice checked this and got same result on separate occasions.

The nearside tyre was starting to show feathering on outside edge of tyre, which I've read is a sign of shock failure, despite tracking being done.

 

What's the official diagnosis of a failed shock. Bouncing the car with high tension springs makes it hard to diagnose. 

 

I remember priming the two new shocks, extending and then pressing it back before fitting.

 

If it is a shock failing, the clunk then bong noise could be the spring extending again after compression is removed.

 

Would a garage have a way of diagnosing shock failure in situ?

 

 

[bmbmdmb]

Solved:

Front left spring was not quite seated on the top mount causing a slight click for months then more recently a clunk.

A big thanks to Skoda DM Keith Wakefield for finding this this.

If anyone is taking out strut, I'd take the hub nut off so you have more room to work. This was a must on driver's side. You will need to lightly jack the hub onto the bottom of strut during reassembly if doing this.