its not. i was getting way more than that before i touched the fuel filter. 49mpg where half of it was motorways free flow roads.

If there was one (or two) DPF regens in there it's not that bad.  Give it another tank or so and see how it is.  At that consumption I'd not be worried about a leak just yet.

Guys, many times tank has been refilled and many hundread miles have been driven so far. I can manage to get  42mpg (average) in city+motorway drive and 52mpg in long stretch road.  I am not telling about the infoteinment reading..it is my proper calculation and to be honest with you my infoteinment system also shows me the same.

As i was keep telling, since the fuel filter was changed this issue (unusual fuel consumption) arised. car had been diagnosed in skoda,no fault found. they visually checked and said there was nothing fault with the car..

i dont know what else is left to sort this consumption problem. any idea!!!

I've not reread the thread but by now I assume you've ruled out the most common causes:

- binding brakes

- wheel alignment

- incorrectly inflated tyres

 

Feel free to change the fuel filter for an Skoda branded version but I doubt it'll make any difference.

 

There is a very small chance when you did the fuel filter change some contaminants got in the system which *might* have damaged an injector. You'd need to have the injectors removed to have them tested and it's quite unlikely.

 

Maybe Skoda did a software update when it was serviced? Even if they did, they'll won't perform a rollback for you.

On 23/03/2019 at 11:02, Gerrycan said:

 

You are right..i did all of them except binding brakes. I got the car full serviced by skoda..so they must have put appropriate fuel filter..they didnt update the software though.

If injector gets faulty would it not be pulled out by diagnostic?

Then check the brakes aren't binding

 

Other than that, is the car getting up to temperature? Coolant gauge should be bang on 90'C and oil between 80-100'C at a guess, you'll get poor economy until the engine is fully warmed up.

 

If you still think it is the fuel filter buy a new filter housing and filter from the main dealer and have it fitted.

 

have you checked:

 

- Air filter is correctly fitted

- MAF sensor is clean

- keep an eye out for dpf regens

- take the engine undertray off and check for signs of leaking fuel.

Edited 27 April, 20197 yr by cheezemonkhai

On ‎26‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 15:32, langers2k said:

Then check the brakes aren't binding

 

Other than that, is the car getting up to temperature? Coolant gauge should be bang on 90'C and oil between 80-100'C at a guess, you'll get poor economy until the engine is fully warmed up.

 

What is brake binding? how can I test it? Oil temp is okay? I always check the temp.

4 minutes ago, automass said:

What is brake binding? how can I test it? Oil temp is okay? I always check the temp.

When the brake pads/shoes are not fully releasing.

 

Easiest way is to jack up one wheel at a time and spin them by hand (with the handbrake off when doing the rear wheels) if you hear an unusual noise and/or the wheel is stiff or slows down quickly then that wheel has a brake binding.

I had a significant increase in fuel consumption over a very long period with My Octavia MK1, it was finally resolved by accident when I found and cured another problem which it turned out had also been causing the increased consumption.

 

I had been working on the fuel sender and unknowingly reversed the feed and return pipes, the vehicle carried on running as normal albeit with the then un-noticed consumption increase.

 

Problem came to light when I changed the fuel filter, the increased suction needed to overcome the reversed valves in the sender/fuel pick up meant air was being drawn into the new filter, I changed the element for 2 others with the same problem, changed O rings etc, it was only the old filter connections that could resist the suction. Basically I was breaking down every few miles and having to bleed through the injectors only for it to do the same a few miles later.

 

When I finally found the fault, the reversed connections the car ran without breakdown and the correct fuel consumption returned.

 

There was also one time where i lost the fuel filler cap and had to use one of those crappy temporary push in ones, the fuel consumption increased during that time also but that may have been a coincidence or something else.

 

anyway its my experience that having a restriction on the fuel feed or return lines can increase fuel consumption so is something for the OP to check.

Thanks for the post J.R. it will be very useful for other people as well.  but I am a novice, so if you could narrow it down please.

11 hours ago, automass said:

Thanks for the post J.R. it will be very useful for other people as well.  but I am a novice, so if you could narrow it down please.

 

J.R is saying here are pipes (probably four) on the fuel filter housing which need to be connected in the right order.

 

The order will depend on exactly what revision of engine you have. Either find an identical car or use erwin to view the workshop data to confirm they are correctly ordered.

 

Just as an example, there is no guarantee this relates to the layout of your engine in any way:

@automass

?

Is there still really an issue from the 7th March till now?

The car seems to do an OK MPG as used.

The issue still persists Skoffski. Believe me or not. whatever you think about the consumption but to me it gives 40-50miles (average city drive) less in 40ltrs fuel. it means I expect/I should/I used to get minimum of 395 to 400 miles in full tank (40 litters). but now I can MANAGE (by coasting, missing gears, run on neutral) to get 350 to max of 365 miles in 41-42liters and its just happening since I changed the fuel filter. it sounds weird but I know my car, so there is something somewhere wrong. I didn't see any fuel leakage though.   

On ‎01‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 11:54, langers2k said:

 

J.R is saying here are pipes (probably four) on the fuel filter housing which need to be connected in the right order.

 

The order will depend on exactly what revision of engine you have. Either find an identical car or use erwin to view the workshop data to confirm they are correctly ordered.

 

Just as an example, there is no guarantee this relates to the layout of your engine in any way:

 

 

I didn't touch the pipes.. it was just the fuel filter which was changed. and fuel consumption increased after changing the filter.

@automass

?

How many miles or how long did you have the car before changing the fuel filter to actually know what the fuel consumption was from getting it to the drop in fuel economy?

On 29/04/2019 at 10:06, automass said:

What is brake binding? how can I test it? Oil temp is okay? I always check the temp.

 

Easiest way.........is to check the temperature of each of the brakes after a drive.

 

Firstly touch / feel each wheel (or alloy?) with the back of your hand. If one wheel is warm or hot then that brake is very likely your problem Re any binding. (and certainly needs looking at if a wheel is warm or hot).

If the wheels are all cool to touch then try touching each disc (use common sense as it could be very hot- though you should feel the heat before actually touching it with your finger if this is the case) 

Again, if one disc is warmer / hotter than the others then this one would need checking.

 

You don't even need to have used your brakes as if one is binding it will get warm / hot (depending how tight it is) anyway.

 

This method of testing can be done in under a minute and save you having to jack up each wheel individually.

 

If you find an issue with this i would suggest you take the car to a garage for them to sort out so as not to cause any further issues with the car, though it is probable that the brake(s) just need either a strip down and clean / reassembly, or possibly a new caliper, or a strip-down of the caliper too.

Coasting in Neutral to improve economy? You won't be utilising any Engine braking and the Engine will be running idle under no-load until you engage the Transmission again, there will be a sudden demand for combustion power which is not a great idea, was never taught to me during my normal or Advanced driving course.

Hope you sort it out but I doubt there is a problem with the car.

Edited 4 May, 20197 yr by KevC_Derby

On 04/05/2019 at 10:32, Tilt said:

 

Easiest way.........is to check the temperature of each of the brakes after a drive.

 

Firstly touch / feel each wheel (or alloy?) with the back of your hand. If one wheel is warm or hot then that brake is very likely your problem Re any binding. (and certainly needs looking at if a wheel is warm or hot).

If the wheels are all cool to touch then try touching each disc (use common sense as it could be very hot- though you should feel the heat before actually touching it with your finger if this is the case) 

Again, if one disc is warmer / hotter than the others then this one would need checking.

 

You don't even need to have used your brakes as if one is binding it will get warm / hot (depending how tight it is) anyway.

 

This method of testing can be done in under a minute and save you having to jack up each wheel individually.

 

If you find an issue with this i would suggest you take the car to a garage for them to sort out so as not to cause any further issues with the car, though it is probable that the brake(s) just need either a strip down and clean / reassembly, or possibly a new caliper, or a strip-down of the caliper too.

Front brake disks r bit hot after deiving 7hours..but not that hot hot..alloys r all ok only front twos are not cold not hot.

@automass

How many miles did you drive in 7 hours and did you brim the car first to see how many liters you used?

Its regarding brake binding..what Tilt said. So i didnt bother about briming or anything now.that chapter is over..its consuming way nore than it was consuming before changing the fuel filter. I dont need any more experiment. Just need to figure out potential cause now.

Can you not say or are you just not going to say how long and how many miles you had the car before you changed the fuel filter, you said in the OP a few days, 

So likely not enough to know what the MPG was.

I bought the car on 1st of March 2019. Bought it from Northampton. so I had to drive the car back to London and again following morning I did drive to Swindon and came back to London. all the time I was driving I had no concern whatsoever regarding MPG, cause i filled the tank to the top and again refilled it to get the proper MPG after each driving. well, the car had its service done  but they didn't change the fuel filter. and last fuel filter was changed around 15k miles ago. so I thought may be I can change it myself. I bought the fuel filter from ecp and changed it by following videos from youtube. Then the problem started. MPG dropped down drastically. 

 

 

You really should be logging every tank of fuel vs milage if your concerned about the fuel usage. How else will you know if it gets better!?

 

It takes a few seconds to record using an app, here's every fill up I've done to show how much driving style and conditions can change the mpg:

http://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/octavia/2011/langers2k/600377/fuelchart

 

At this point, I'd take it to a decent tuner and have them perform a health check. They should have an idea of normal boost and fuel injection for a stock car to compare to. The dealer obviously isn't interested as there are no fault codes and you don't seem to have the expertise to track it down. I'm not sure anyone else will have the data required.

 

Good luck...

When you changed the filter, you made sure everything stayed clean right?

 

A little bit of sandy dirt in there will destroy things very quickly.