The JB4 thread

[newbie69]

1 minute ago, technics100 said:

I just timed 100-200kph (62-124mph) in my 2.0 TFSI 220BHP with a racechip tuning box from a video of the digital speedo and it's timing at 14 secs.. for a comparison..

Forgot to reply to your previous post. Recording the speedo has two issues: a) It inherently over-reads and the difference at 200km/h is quite significant. Exactly how much depends on the tire size but to give you an idea of how much, when I recorded a 100-200 via speedo and the XGPS at the same time on my previous car, according to the speedo I did it in 10.2-10.4", however GPS measurement showed 11.8" so you should roughly add 1.5" more to whatever the video showed to begin with.

The second thing is slope. 100-200 runs take quite some time and distance and it's very easy to have a downhill of 2-3% without really looking like one. The effect of that compared to a flat road measurement is night and day. 100-200 with -3% would cut 1.5-2" off  the actual time, confirmed by various tests. So again you don't know how much you should add to your time or not.

[newbie69]

  

2 hours ago, Bejam said:

 

@newbie69, if I go for the JB4, would you recommend the extra cost bluetooth module and app? Or is it a set and forget system? Any recommended UK dealer?

 

Also, it looks like I have to put an OBD cable through the bulkhead. Any thoughts/recommendations, having done it already?

 

Thanks for your ongoing support,

 

Ben.

The Jb4 can very well be a set and forget option, it has been one in the Superb for me as I have not connected to it for several months, just works fine. On my last car where it was seeing more "racing" action I was messing with it and trying adjustments on a weekly basis, different settings for winter and summer etc. so it's really what you plan to do with it yourself.

The BT module is a nice handy feature if you keep on adding mods and/or plan to do lots of fine tuning and adjustment to squeeze out every last hp. Its benefit is the easy, wireless access to the control app, but of-course it costs 140$ more.

The other option to control the JB4 is to get the BMS data cable for 35$ and route it through the firewall. You anyway need to route the OBD cable through the firewall so you will go through the process and I would definitely recommend getting at least that if you don't go for the BT luxury. Then once the cable is in you can either connect to a laptop/mac for free, or to your Android phone (needs an extra female USB to USB OTG for android cable ~10eur) and then use an app to control the JB4 that sells for 20eur on the Play Store (it;s from a 3rd party developer but it works fine). Same functionality but around 75-80eur less than the BT combo if you add up the cost of data cable (35$) + android OTG adapter (10eur) + Android app (20eur), that's the option I have got.

If you're not very tech-savy the BT is an option of less hassle, the Android settings for the USB adapters can sometimes act up so you need to know a few workarounds. I mod my phones since my first Android device in 2010 so I didn't mind, but not everyone likes to spend time on that.


 

[Bejam]

3 hours ago, newbie69 said:

  

The Jb4 can very well be a set and forget option, it has been one in the Superb for me as I have not connected to it for several months, just works fine. On my last car where it was seeing more "racing" action I was messing with it and trying adjustments on a weekly basis, different settings for winter and summer etc. so it's really what you plan to do with it yourself.

The BT module is a nice handy feature if you keep on adding mods and/or plan to do lots of fine tuning and adjustment to squeeze out every last hp. Its benefit is the easy, wireless access to the control app, but of-course it costs 140$ more.

The other option to control the JB4 is to get the BMS data cable for 35$ and route it through the firewall. You anyway need to route the OBD cable through the firewall so you will go through the process and I would definitely recommend getting at least that if you don't go for the BT luxury. Then once the cable is in you can either connect to a laptop/mac for free, or to your Android phone (needs an extra female USB to USB OTG for android cable ~10eur) and then use an app to control the JB4 that sells for 20eur on the Play Store (it;s from a 3rd party developer but it works fine). Same functionality but around 75-80eur less than the BT combo if you add up the cost of data cable (35$) + android OTG adapter (10eur) + Android app (20eur), that's the option I have got.

If you're not very tech-savy the BT is an option of less hassle, the Android settings for the USB adapters can sometimes act up so you need to know a few workarounds. I mod my phones since my first Android device in 2010 so I didn't mind, but not everyone likes to spend time on that.


 

Thanks @newbie69. Will let you know how I get on. I’m tech savvy, but allergic to Android and PCs, so may well go the Bluetooth route. 😎

[didoya]

@newbie69 One year later - have you had any issues with the JB4 so far - warning lights, hesitations, etc.? I'm still wondering whether to go with Revo Stage1 or JB4. Warranty is very tempting so I'll most probably go with the JB4. Did you have the chance to make some extra measurements and/or Dyno tests?

And one more question - do/how/where you hide the JB4 wiring when you visit the dealer for the scheduled maintenance?

[newbie69]

1 hour ago, didoya said:

@newbie69 One year later - have you had any issues with the JB4 so far - warning lights, hesitations, etc.? I'm still wondering whether to go with Revo Stage1 or JB4. Warranty is very tempting so I'll most probably go with the JB4. Did you have the chance to make some extra measurements and/or Dyno tests?

And one more question - do/how/where you hide the JB4 wiring when you visit the dealer for the scheduled maintenance?

In the one year I've been running it I haven't had any real issues with it, certainly no warning lights. I remember once I scanned with OBDEleven and there was some random intermittent fault showing up in the scan. It was either me forgetting to plug the JB4's OBD cable back in after I had disconnected it in order to do some OBDEleven adaptations or the AFR wire wasn't seated properly. As I said it didn't show up any lights though or other strange behaviour and after I cleared it and checked all connections it hasn't come back ever since.

The only other thing I can think of is that occasionally, when using launch control and blasting off at the full RPM maybe one out of 4-5 times the car seems to bog down as if the ESP comes on and off on a FWD car. To be fair though, I asked George about it since the first time it happened and he said that the DSG7 in the R and S3 does something like that and the boost needs some tapering @6K rpm to eliminate this. He asked me to record a log and send it to him so we can try the new settings but I have been so lazy during winter and I hardly ever launched the car since (only once and it was fine) that I didn't bother getting to the end of it.

Other than that nothing I can think of, you wouldn't know the car is tuned, there are no sudden pick-ups or drops in power or other weird noises/behaviours.


Speaking of dyno tests, I repeated some 100-200 runs and more importantly I corrected for slope the previously measured times in order to have a fair comparison as there was a bit of negative and positives slopes on them. So the corrected times are:

Stock 100-200 @ +0.32% slope: 16,62" >> after correction >> 16,31" 

Map2 100-200 @ -0.46% slope: 12,45"  >> after correction >> 12,71"

That's a slightly less improvement than originally estimated but still very good for a mild tuning option (Map2 provides a mere 340bhp/420-430m ) that keeps your warranty and works very smooth overall.


However, it could be that I change boats soon. I've now used the JB4 on two different cars from new for a bit over a year on both. No issues with either of them and good performance, even comparable to proper tunes (albeit the weaker ones) in some cases. But I've also had full remaps in the past. My plan was always to get a JB4 as soon as possible to provide some of the extra power I was after from the beginning while also testing that the car was "a good one" and didn't come with any engine/dsg issues that would need sorting under warranty (it happens). Sort of like an "accelerated life" mechanical test 😄.  Then once things looked strong move on to a full remap for ECU & DSG, and possibly stage 2.

I'm also already used to the current power, honestly don't find the car really that fast any more, and the times I've seem from REVO stage 1 GPF cars like the Cupra ST AWD, albeit being 80kg lighter, are very impressive. REVO seems to have been able to extract some very solid performance from those GPF engines and I am thus tempted to see what I might have been missing out. I also find the new DSG7, regardless of the JB4, to act a bit funny in manual mode which i use a lot and i'll be getting TVS's DSG tune together the REVO stage 1 if I go forward. Maybe hold off a little more and I could be in a position to directly compare JB4 vs REVO soon?! 😛

Overall, I would still strongly recommend the JB4 to anyone who is not after absolute performance and would like some piece of mind when it comes to possible warranty claims. 

[didoya]

@newbie69 Thank you very much for the detailed answer! I was reading a lot regarding the REVO Stage1 and I'll mots probably go that way. The torque figures are spectacular (about 480NM. They even managed to get 505 with Stage 1, but reduced the torque due to slipping clutches at 500NM) + they say they're managing the cooling, exhaust gas temperatures, etc. What a serious gains only with software, which is considered as safe - this is one of the things Revo is famous for. And what a massive gains, regardless of the presence of GPF and absence of MPI injectors. Turns out when it comes to stage 1 - the gains are comparable with the 280 engine..

[newbie69]

1 hour ago, didoya said:

@newbie69 Thank you very much for the detailed answer! I was reading a lot regarding the REVO Stage1 and I'll mots probably go that way. The torque figures are spectacular (about 480NM. They even managed to get 505 with Stage 1, but reduced the torque due to slipping clutches at 500NM) + they say they're managing the cooling, exhaust gas temperatures, etc. What a serious gains only with software, which is considered as safe - this is one of the things Revo is famous for. And what a massive gains, regardless of the presence of GPF and absence of MPI injectors. Turns out when it comes to stage 1 - the gains are comparable with the 280 engine..

Yes they have got excellent results to the point that the GPFs are irrelevant. I was speaking with a REVO tuner the other day and he explained that the GPF cars with the new DNU engines show an even stronger power curve than the CJX (pre-GPF) ones on the same boost, somehow... Very interested in comparing performance between it and the JB4 after I get the ECU and DSG mapped. Mind you, you will need a DSG tune with the extra torque the REVO stage 1 is pushing over stock on GPF cars, especially since they are coupled to the new DQ381 7speed which doesn't seem to hold up as well as the previous DQ250 did at least at stage 1 levels. There are reports on GPF Golf R and Audi S3 (with the DQ381) that there is clutch slip and that you probably need stage 2 DSG map right from the beginning.

But back on topic, I wouldn't compare the JB4 to the REVO map. The JB4 is a "have your cake and eat it" option. For people who'd prefer the piece of mind of warranty or who are not allowed to tune their cars due to other restrictions (lease etc.)  it's hands down the best way to go if you want a stronger car. Also smoother, more adjustable and with more sophisticated control over the ECU than any other piggyback (AFR and OBD sensors, boost by gear settings etc.)


PS. I will be putting my JB4 unit for sale rather soon. Last time I sold my previous one, the ad lasted 2 days in the Golf forum before it got sold. I'd rather sell it to someone here who has some forum presence than some random guy on FB so throw me a pm if you're interested.

[penguin17]

@newbie69 We can compare notes on pre-GPF Vs GPF equipped cars 😀  I'm going to be going Revo stage 1 with the Revo or Turbo Technics turbo inlet pipe swap too.  According to the Revo agent that would usually give around 490Nm and 380-85BHP.  I did look at Racingline OEM+ stage 1 but there's not enough info and real world reviews out there.   I'm sure the R&D is good as Racingline have a good rep and background with VW group cars, but having used Revo a few times in the past I shall stick to what I know and trust. 

 

I was looking at the Revo and Racingline air intake upgrades too but general consensus is that the limited benefit is at high revs where you will likely spend very little time.  The one piece turbo inlet pipes have been proven to give 10-14bhp and Nm increase. 

 

 

Edited 6 May, 2020 by penguin17

[newbie69]

29 minutes ago, penguin17 said:

@newbie69 We can compare notes on pre-GPF Vs GPF equipped cars 😀  I'm going to be going Revo stage 1 with the Revo or Turbo Technics turbo inlet pipe swap too.  According to the Revo agent that would usually give around 490Nm and 380-85BHP.  I did look at Racingline OEM+ stage 1 but there's not enough info and real world reviews out there.   I'm sure the R&D is good as Racingline have a good rep and background with VW group cars, but having used Revo a few times in the past I shall stick to what I know and trust. 

 

I was looking at the Revo and Racingline air intake upgrades too but general consensus is that the limited benefit is at high revs where you will likely spend very little time.  The one piece turbo inlet pipes have been proven to give 10-14bhp and Nm increase. 

 

 

 

Time for a remap thread isn't it? 😄 

 

Yeah it'd be great to compare GPF/pre-GPF results on the same car from the same tuner.

 

I have Racingline's inlet pipe, can't say that I have felt any difference but should be closer to 5-10bhp. Eyeing up an R600 as that should provide a further 10-15bhp, being on the conservative side.

 

The DQ250 on your car is a proven gearbox that is coping fine with stage 1 torque. With the newer DQ381 though there are reports of clutch slip even on stage 1. The JB4 and some mild remaps add lower torque so get away without dsg map but REVO's is a strong one and needs the 'box mapped too already at stage 1 levels apparently.

[penguin17]

@newbie69 not sure if you have seen this? I thought it may be of interest: 

 

https://www.onlyrevo.com/blog/all-new-gpf-stage-1-software-for-2-0t-ea888-gen-3-is38/

[newbie69]

13 minutes ago, penguin17 said:

@newbie69 not sure if you have seen this? I thought it may be of interest: 

 

https://www.onlyrevo.com/blog/all-new-gpf-stage-1-software-for-2-0t-ea888-gen-3-is38/

 

Yeap, since it came out 😛

[BF67]

On 26/03/2019 at 13:11, newbie69 said:

Right, so I thought instead of just a write-up of my impressions of the unit, why not have a dedicated thread where everyone can post all JB4 related information, experiences, questions, results in one place. It's the case in other VAG forums and I know it's quite helpful for anyone looking for JB4 related information. Also, since this was the 3rd time I have installed the unit (1st time on the Superb) I thought I'd share some conclusions and tips that helped me during the process.


Installation:

==========

For anyone who hasn't done this before, it can seem a bit tricky at first but following a few good practices can make life a whole lot easier. This is not a step by step guide as instructions do come with the unit but more like a few areas to draw attention to on how things could be better carried out more easily.

The unit has 3 plugs that are connected at different sensors in the engine bay. Two of them (B and C) are straightforward plug out and then in, but the bottom one (D) is the tricky one. To access it, you need to lift the car slightly and remove the plastic under-tray held by T25 screws. I did it at my garage using a jack and lifting the left side of the car just a bit to allow me to unscrew all the screws. Then, to un-plug it you should have definitely practiced your grip on those connectors as they need a special technique and if you haven't worked with VAG cars before it will seem harder than it is. All it takes is a good press-pull (actually: pivot) of the top tab to release, you can usually (but not always) hear a "click" when it does, then you just pull the connector out. Problem is you can't place your hand exactly as you'd like due to the connector being at a funny angle so practice so as to be able to do it without looking at it. You could also use a screwdriver to pry it open but take care with that as you could brake something.
The AFR wire and positap connector, just follow the instructions on the manual (they are good on that part).

Finally, the routing of the OBD cable and the USB data cable (for those who didn't opt for Bluetooth connection) through the firewall. This is where I'd lost a couple of hours a few years back as the place behind the firewall is so tight you are just working by feel. How I prefer to do it eventually: Get a bit of steel wire to use as a "driver" but not too flexible (3mm thick would do). Attach the molex plug at its end and enter the engine bay from the oval opening with an upright angle (60-70 degrees roughly). You will need to cut a cross slit to the grommet to get through. Helps to have a friend checking what's coming out at the other end otherwise you should be pausing to check if you're good. When you are done, leave the steel wire there and attach the USB cable (the thin end going to the computer not the JB4 end) so that it can get to the cabin when you pull the wire back in through the grommet. Then just arrange all the cables below the steering so that they don't get in your way (I used cable ties) and you're good to go. 

It's good to drive normally for the first minutes after first installation, then gradually give it full throttle for the ecu and gearbox to adapt fully, ie. don't expect the full effect the first time you floor it. Then again it should not be a particularly long process either. Start with Map 1 at first to make sure all feels fine and no errors, lights come up (shouldn't but just in case some wire is not secured in place etc), and even do some logs to confirm this. Then if all looks fine you could switch to Map 2 which is closer to an actual stage 1.


Driving:
=======

So the million dollar question: How does the unit feel on a 272 AWD Superb?

Impressively linear. You won't/shouldn't get any unexpected power spikes, hiccups, noises or other weird reactions. In fact, the unit goes completely un-noticed and has no effect during your regular off-boost driving (you can easily check this by seeing actual boost being the same as ECU requested boost). The extra power is in relation with the throttle position and aggressiveness, when you ask for it, you get it, based on the way that you asked. And what you do get is not some explosion of power as I already said (would be hard to get this with just stage 1 power levels) but a noticeably stronger, more convincing will to accelerate hard up to the red line without any hesitation.

As stock, after the instant "get going" effect wears out (above 40mph) the cars feels like it makes progress but not particularly fast, more like in a fixed speed building state. With the JB4, the car wants to accelerate harder and harder the higher you go in the rev range, as if some limiter has been removed. Flooring it in 1st is hilarious, instant, almost electric slap so be prepared (and that was without Launch Control even), 2nd gear throws you back fiercely, 3rd still goes pretty strong and even in 4th you're accelerating significantly. The power delivery as a whole has expanded and is more interesting to explore the upper departments... But it never feels "injected" or "enforced" on the car, you could easily believe this is how it left the factory.

Coupe of things to note:
- My driving was done with Map 2 as after a quick check on Map 1 there was no point in wasting more time there. Map 1 will have a less pronounced effect on all of the above as it tapers more the extra power.
- The car has a pedal box already which definitely amplifies this instant low speed pick-up and I think one complements the other into a great combo. Again, expect a less pronounced effect without it.


Rough data:
==========

 

Haven't yet had the opportunity to safely compare 0-60 times but judging from the rest of the acceleration figures I got and the way the power is laid down in the first 3 gears (the new 7speed helps there) it definitely feels it can do mid 4's. Update will come in due time.

100-200km/h (or 62-124mph for the UK guys):  Stock, the car did it in 16.6". On Map 2 and no other mods whatsoever this dropped to 11.9"-12.1" which is ridiculously good improvement for a mere stage 1 without any other mods whatsoever. For reference, this is significantly faster than the latest 540i xDrive and S6, and still faster than the latest S4/S5, 440i etc. so not too bad.

Still for people coming from relatively powerful cars, and especially above 100km/h, you will feel it's ok but nothing extraordinary. The good (or bad, that depends... )  thing is this platform can handle a lot more power so up to you really where you feel it's enough. For the time being I'll just add the Racingline filter and turbo inlet pipe that I got out of my previous 2.0 TSI  and call it a day till the situation with the GPF downpipes clears out, then we'll see. I somehow feel I ultimately won't be able to resist a proper upgrade on this car.


 

Great description.  I’m just about to fit my JB4 to new Superb (2020, 272).

 

Does anyone have a good image of where to find the elusive grommet to get the OBD2 cable through the firewall?

 

Mine is a RHD car so I assume I’m looking under the dash in passenger footwell but not sure exactly where to look!!

 

 

 

 

[newbie69]

36 minutes ago, BF67 said:

Great description.  I’m just about to fit my JB4 to new Superb (2020, 272).

 

Does anyone have a good image of where to find the elusive grommet to get the OBD2 cable through the firewall?

 

Mine is a RHD car so I assume I’m looking under the dash in passenger footwell but not sure exactly where to look!!

 

Mine is a RHD car too (Sweden). You need to remove the insulation (with the black felt on) which is stuck on the firewall, close to where the steering column goes through, then you'll find the grommet behind it. The insulation is pre-cut in the area so you can unstuck only the small bit that is in the way and not the whole thing. This is where you should be looking at:




There are actually two grommets that go through there, don't mistake them as there's a small round one which is impossible to route cables through and will give you a hard time.

This is the grommet to remove:

[BF67]

That’s really helpful.  The “official” instructions  suggest that for RHD you need to run the cable behind the centre console and go through the firewall on the left hand side to come out behind the battery box - so completely different!!!

[newbie69]

4 minutes ago, BF67 said:

That’s really helpful.  The “official” instructions  suggest that for RHD you need to run the cable behind the centre console and go through the firewall on the left hand side to come out behind the battery box - so completely different!!!

You meant LHD right?  RHD has the steering wheel on the left already so no need to route anything to the other side

[BF67]

Ah - we are at cross purposes.  In the UK RHD is used to describe the position of the driver (so steering wheel on the right).  In which case I guess yours is steering wheel on left and I will need to find the equivalent spot to your picture in my passenger footwell.

[newbie69]

6 minutes ago, BF67 said:

Ah - we are at cross purposes.  In the UK RHD is used to describe the position of the driver (so steering wheel on the right).  In which case I guess yours is steering wheel on left and I will need to find the equivalent spot to your picture in my passenger footwell.

I figured!  That's why I wrote Sweden in the first post, to clarify the car i'm talking about has the steering wheel on the left, in the correct position that is  

So yeah, you should be looking to the side behind of the battery, passenger side in your case.

[Onetoothcracker]

On 12/04/2019 at 01:55, newbie69 said:

All in all very nice results for getting to keep your warranty at the same time.

 

Hi all, i'm a new member who has just bought a 2018 (MY19) Sportline 206 tsi hatch with ~5000km on the clock, after owning 2 Passats.

 

I am interested in making some improvements to my car with some midrange power and handling upgrades. One thing that intrigues me is the reference by @newbie69 to adding JB4 tuning while maintaining the warranty. Is this unique to Sweden or more generally in Europe or other markets? My understanding is that here in Australia this mod would void the warranty and I would be interested in discussing this issue with VGA (Volkswagen Group Australia) if there was some documentation to support the stance taken in other markets. 

I greatly appreciate the experience and expertise of contributors to this forum

Regards

chris

On 12/04/2019 at 01:55, newbie69 said:

All in all very nice results for getting to keep your warranty at the same time.

 

Hi all, i'm a new member who has just bought a 2018 (MY19) Sportline 206 tsi hatch with ~5000km on the clock, after owning 2 Passats.

 

I am interested in making some improvements to my car with some midrange power and handling upgrades. One thing that intrigues me is the reference by @newbie69 to adding JB4 tuning while maintaining the warranty. Is this unique to Sweden or more generally in Europe or other markets? My understanding is that here in Australia this mod would void the warranty and I would be interested in discussing this issue with VGA (Volkswagen Group Australia) if there was some documentation to support the stance taken in other markets. 

I greatly appreciate the experience and expertise of contributors to this forum

Regards

chris

[shyVRS245]

More recently he has had a stage 1 map done to his ECU plus a TVS stage +2 map on the DSG box and changed some factory under bonnet components so it would not be covered by the Europe wide Skoda warranty because it would be very obvious it is tuned to around 390bhp and 500+nm. He was talking about the JB4 leaving no trace in the ECU memory which should allow the factory/dealer warranty to be still intact but he has seen the benefit of custom mods unleashing the potential of this car. My 200kw Superb Sportline runs on Shell 99 octane fuel and has no mods except its AmD custom remap done on a rolling road lifting power from 283bhp to 359bhp (363PS) or 268kw and torque went from 369nm to 514nm (378lb/ft at 2,800rpm). Skoda claim 268bhp at 6,000rpm and 350nm at 4,500rpm for my 2019 Superb 272 hatch. I have no map on my DSG.👍

[Onetoothcracker]

Thanks for your reply shyVRS245, that sounds interesting. I had a look at the AmD website which says "There’s no replacement chip, and we don’t touch the ECU itself giving you piece of mind." so do I take it that this means they are saying the tune they apply also don't leave a trace in the ECU memory and are not detectable by a dealer? 

[shyVRS245]

I wouldn't make sure a bold claim that it is not detectable but it improves everything about the car. 0-100kph drops from standard 5.5 seconds to 4.3 seconds and I recently had the chance to compare my car to 2015 Audi RS3 and it is a match as both clocked 12.5 second quarter mile times at a terminal speed of 176kph (110mph). My car will reach 256kph (160mph) in under 1 mile (1.5km) yet has averaged 39.13mpg over 10,000km (6,000 miles) with no issues. Before the map the best economy figure was 45.9mpg but now with all that extra power and torque available it has achieved a best of 49.3mpg on my 27 mile (43km) commute.

[newbie69]

7 hours ago, Onetoothcracker said:

Hi all, i'm a new member who has just bought a 2018 (MY19) Sportline 206 tsi hatch with ~5000km on the clock, after owning 2 Passats.

 

I am interested in making some improvements to my car with some midrange power and handling upgrades. One thing that intrigues me is the reference by @newbie69 to adding JB4 tuning while maintaining the warranty. Is this unique to Sweden or more generally in Europe or other markets? My understanding is that here in Australia this mod would void the warranty and I would be interested in discussing this issue with VGA (Volkswagen Group Australia) if there was some documentation to support the stance taken in other markets. 

I greatly appreciate the experience and expertise of contributors to this forum

Regards

chris

Nothing to do with Sweden in particular, any modification on the engine be it a piggyback or remap is a valid reason to reject warranty of engine related claims worldwide. Meaning that If you ever had a big warranty claim and went to a dealership with the JB4 still connected to the car then you'd most surely be denied.

The thing with the JB4 is that since it is not modifying any actual software and the ECU sensors still only see stock values of boost, fueling etc. it is essentially impossible to trace after removal. I don't know yet of any warranty claim having been rejected due to a discovery of a JB4 previously on the car. I do know plenty cases of warranty rejection due to being flashed (remap) though.

 

6 hours ago, Onetoothcracker said:

Thanks for your reply shyVRS245, that sounds interesting. I had a look at the AmD website which says "There’s no replacement chip, and we don’t touch the ECU itself giving you piece of mind." so do I take it that this means they are saying the tune they apply also don't leave a trace in the ECU memory and are not detectable by a dealer? 

Not really. What that merely means is that the remap process is carried out by connecting a cable to the OBD port, as opposed to removing and opening up the actual ECU unit as in older vehicles, it;s still 100% traceable though as it triggers an inherent flash counter.

[Opensider]

Holy thread revival alert....

 

Has anyone fitted one of these it the 1.4tsi(150)

[Legion]

Sun was out so I took it out for a little drive and did one 0-100.

 

Full tank of fuel

124Kg driver

Average tyres.

Used launch control

5.12s verified on the Dragy.

 

 

[MarkyG82]

Good tyres and less fuel should see a sub 5. Good work 👍