Hi, has anyone ever come across these fault codes before?

 

 

Only appear sometimes when I'm on full throttle for a sustained period of time. EPC light comes on and pulls the car back, but I'm still able to drive at motorway speeds with the light on. I can have bursts of power no issue, and at times I've been able to drive full throttle and not get this fault aswell.

 

Car was mapped over a year ago, and I've only noticed this issue over the past month or so, so I'm edging on thinking its not the map being too aggressive. I've also noticed a lot of smoke when I go full throttle, which has only started since the cold weather came in. No coolant gets used, but it feels like too much of a coincidence. 

 

Google search doesn't reveal much so just hoping someone here has come across this before, worried I'll end up blowing something up 

Did you mean to post in the Mk3 Octavia forum, your details say you have a Mk1 Octavia vRS?

20 minutes ago, PetrolDave said:

Did you mean to post in the Mk3 Octavia forum, your details say you have a Mk1 Octavia vRS?

 

I've not updated my profile for over a year, and forgot it showed Mk1 to be honest, I'll change it now to save confusion. 

 

Definitely a Mk3 with these fault codes.

I wonder if it's fuel pressure being measured or is it the knock sensor?

What fuel are you using?

Edited 6 April, 20197 yr by StealthRS245

16 minutes ago, StealthRS245 said:

I wonder if it's fuel pressure being measured or is it the knock sensor?

What fuel are you using?

 

Used Momentum 99RON since the remap, is there any way to test the knock sensor? I've access to diagnostic computers which should show me real time data, I'm not just not sure where to start looking.

 

Forgot to add in the OP I sometimes feel like the car misfires for just a fraction of a second when im sitting idling at lights, you almost miss the feeling if you're not paying attention. Dont feel it under load and it never gets any worse or flags up a misfire code.

Edited 6 April, 20197 yr by Saints92

6 minutes ago, Saints92 said:

 

Used Momentum 99RON since the remap, is there any way to test the knock sensor? I've access to diagnostic computers which should show me real time data, I'm not just not sure where to start looking.

 

Forgot to add in the OP I sometimes feel like the car misfires for just a fraction of a second when im sitting idling at lights, you almost miss the feeling if you're not paying attention. Dont feel it under load and it never gets any worse or flags up a misfire code.

Sorry I'm not sure what data can be used to check knock sensors. If you can run some logs checking AFR and ignition you should be able to tell if it's leaning out.

Hope you can get it sorted out.

Found this

https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10061-just-picked-up-my-7-r-and-problems-already/

1 minute ago, StealthRS245 said:

Sorry I'm not sure what data can be used to check knock sensors. If you can run some logs checking AFR and ignition you should be able to tell if it's leaning out.

Hope you can get it sorted out.

 

No bother, cheers for the advice  I'll have a look at some things on Monday and see what logs i get.

1 minute ago, GenOtmin said:

Found this

https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10061-just-picked-up-my-7-r-and-problems-already/

 

Cheers, interesting someone says they resolved it with injectors.

 

Could I test that by swapping Injector 1 with 3, and seeing if the fault moves?

Is one way to test it.

Remove them and if you have a lot of buildups on them clean them in that case

1 minute ago, GenOtmin said:

Is one way to test it.

Remove them and if you have a lot of buildups on them clean them in that case

 

 A job for my lunch break on Monday, fingers crossed I find an issue there.

Another thread on the same forum as above, if it's any of those who is the culprit not a to big job to sort out  
And fingers crossed not a balancing issue.
 

Cylinder pressure to high is a modelled limitation. When the ECU detects the timing is too low and knock is to high then it'll give the pressure to high error. This is potentially due to the cylinder balancing so whilst the AFr is correct 1 cylinder maybe rich and 1 then lean to compensate. 

Dodgy injector, plugs or coils can contribute. 

6 minutes ago, GenOtmin said:

Another thread on the same forum as above, if it's any of those who is the culprit not a to big job to sort out  
And fingers crossed not a balancing issue.
 

Cylinder pressure to high is a modelled limitation. When the ECU detects the timing is too low and knock is to high then it'll give the pressure to high error. This is potentially due to the cylinder balancing so whilst the AFr is correct 1 cylinder maybe rich and 1 then lean to compensate. 

Dodgy injector, plugs or coils can contribute. 

 

Its only an issue when I'm pushing the car at its highest limit, for instance I went a 40 minute round trip after I'd cleared the code, and was comfortably able to boost and get up to over 90, without any hint of a problem at all. So that hopefully just points to an injector/coil/plug struggling to cope when put under huge load.

 

I'll swap all three with cylinder 3 and see if it moves, I'll then do some musical chairs if it does move, and see where it ends up.

Edited 6 April, 20197 yr by Saints92

Never got around to swapping things over, and today it decided to start misfiring at idle on cylinder 1, a permanent code.

 

Swapped injector over and fault remained at 1.

 

Swapped coil over with cylinder 2 and fault has vanished completely 

 

Is there a recommended spark plug for  mapped 220, or will replacement stock ones still be fine?

Edited 23 April, 20197 yr by Saints92

Spot the difference....

 

 

Cylinder 1 so assume it's been like that a while, so hopefully means any potential damage it could cause would've happened by now.

 

Although my journeyman says it, used to be, common for some cars to burn away bits like that, rather than it cracking off.

 

Car runs fine and no funny noises so far, so doesnt look like any internal damage. Number 4 coil flat out refuses to come out, though, so its not changed yet.

Edited 24 April, 20197 yr by Saints92

Does your car burn oil? Looks like you have oil on the plug

46 minutes ago, GenOtmin said:

Does your car burn oil? Looks like you have oil on the plug

 

Can go from Max to Min in a couple of months/2-3000 miles.

 

 Just something I've got used to now, been like that ever since I bought it 16 months ago, wish I'd known at the time of purchase tbh.

 

I would say that it felt more like petrol on the plug when I ran my finger on it though.

Edited 25 April, 20197 yr by Saints92

11 hours ago, Saints92 said:

 

Can go from Max to Min in a couple of months/2-3000 miles.

 

 Just something I've got used to now, been like that ever since I bought it 16 months ago, wish I'd known at the time of purchase tbh.

 

I would say that it felt more like petrol on the plug when I ran my finger on it though.

Ok, hope you are right. You get drops underneath the car then?

2 hours ago, GenOtmin said:

Ok, hope you are right. You get drops underneath the car then?

 

No signs of leakage, underneath, but theres oil residue around the rocker cover.

 

Cylinder 1 spark plug the only one that looked like that.

 

Regularly put a measured amount in and reset the trip to see how long it lasts, havent found it getting any worse, yet, so reluctant to have the engine stripped. It's a 63 with 70k miles so cant see Skoda UK paying anything if that's a route I go down.

 

47 minutes ago, Saints92 said:

 

No signs of leakage, underneath, but theres oil residue around the rocker cover.

 

Cylinder 1 spark plug the only one that looked like that.

 

Regularly put a measured amount in and reset the trip to see how long it lasts, havent found it getting any worse, yet, so reluctant to have the engine stripped. It's a 63 with 70k miles so cant see Skoda UK paying anything if that's a route I go down.

 

If cylinder 1 has been misfiring for some time and given the state if the plug, I be surprised not to see some black deposits as there’s been unburnt fuel even if it has been blown out of the head. If you are at all concerned, pressure test the cylinder.  Fingers crossed your car is now running well. I also had the EPC caption  illuminate once whilst returning home from Shark in Mansfield after its remap in Dec 17. Stopped, turned it back on and all ok since.

2 minutes ago, Redboy said:

If cylinder 1 has been misfiring for some time and given the state if the plug, I be surprised not to see some black deposits as there’s been unburnt fuel even if it has been blown out of the head. If you are at all concerned, pressure test the cylinder.  Fingers crossed your car is now running well. I also had the EPC caption  illuminate once whilst returning home from Shark in Mansfield after its remap in Dec 17. Stopped, turned it back on and all ok since.

 

It had been missing slightly at idle for a good few months now, but was fine under load, apart from the EPC light. 

 

Now it idles so well you cant be sure it's actually running, and cant get the EPC light back. So I'm praying it's fine, might take the plug back out in 1k miles and see how it looks. 

Almost exactly one year on, and the same has happened, this time it looks like its starting to burn a hole in the piston.

 

How much is a new 2.0tsi engine...

Anyone got any ideas for this?

 

Only ever cylinder 1, completely burns out a spark plug every ~6000 miles. Other 3 cylinders are perfect.

 

Oil on the coil, and very slightly pooling around the spark plug.

 

Spark plug fitted a year ago unwound from the head without the use of a ratchet, despite being torqued in to the correct spec.

 

Cylinder 1 piston with oil residue on the top, and shiny point directly below spark plug.

 

Oil use is around 1ltr every 3/4 months;2/3k miles.

 

Going to try and get a compression test done tomorrow, but after a new spark plug is fitted, its trouble free motoring for ~6k miles until a misfire starts and plug starts burning out.

 

Swapped injectors and fault doesnt move, and also swapped coils and the fault doesnt move.

 

NGK plugs fitted, ordered off the reg numbers.

 

Car was remapped and driven for a year before issue started. Mapper doesnt understand why only Cylinder 1 would have issues if map was too aggressive but is willing to put it back to stock.

 

Absolutely horrible feeling it will be an engine job, one way or another, not what's needed financially.

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by Saints92

Wondering if the oil getting onto the spark plug is causing the plug to burn out, causing the fault? 

 

Is there a common fix for oil around a spark plug on these engines?

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by Saints92

Even more worrying from my perspective is the bit that was missing from plug no 1.....where has it gone?  Has it gone into the cylinder?  Have you managed to retrieve the broken-off part? 

 

Sounds like the oil seals are on their way out.  Oil on plug....never good - and shows distress on that cylinder.  Compression test good first start....I think you will find its down on pressure - which means new piston rings as a minimum...