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Spark plugs changed still misfiring


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5 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

The 0-60 time is affected by available traction much more than power, the quarter trap speed will show the power increase much better. When I changed from worn Rain sport 3's to Pilot Sport 4's my 0-60 fell by 0.4 seconds. 

 

George is correct that the car could have been making 195hp before and the same now but with a nice torque increase that you feel. If you are happy with how it drives why does a power figure matter?.

 

On a side note, I was using an MBC to see what the turbo could do when really pushed... Even at 25psi peak it didn't make any more power at 6000, just lots more between 4000 and 5000 do I didn't see the point and went back to my Bluespark.

I agree

standing quarter has been hard to achieve as its almost impossible to find a nice 1/4 mile long stretch of road thats quiet and doesnt pose any risks of pot holes and humps. Thats why im doing my 0-60 as good as possible before taking it to Santa Pod for a few runs.

pilot sport 4 better than Uniroyals?

 

 

I want another dyno run to know the exact figure as more mods have been done and how much the difference would be 

also as proof if it comes to selling the car

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Is it not the remap causing the issue, unless it was misfiring "before" the remap.

 

Having had lots of different makes of cars and been on countless messsage boards over the years,

 

one thing is for sure....... far to common no matter who or what vehicle is mapped and that is...... it often increases power (as you'd expect because your paying money) but there is also often consequences to that which lots of mappers fail to ever mention.....but always happy to take your money for what I consider and expensive product for what it is.

 

I would go back to the mapper to ensure all is correct, and even potentially reload the factory map, test drive, and see if the misfire is still there......I have a hunch it won't be.

Edited by UrbanPanzer
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1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

@RezaVrs - I've not read the entire thread, but "bad" new plugs are not unknown. If you still have the old plugs, try one of them in each cylinder in turn, and see if that helps.

What does “try” mean?

change each plug one by one and floor it after each change?

but that still wont be accurate as my misfire happens on occassions unpredictably between mainly 4-5000 rpm and its a very short stutter lasting only between for example 4600 rpm and 4800rpm and then its gone

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1 hour ago, RezaVrs said:

What does “try” mean?

change each plug one by one and floor it after each change?

but that still wont be accurate as my misfire happens on occassions unpredictably between mainly 4-5000 rpm and its a very short stutter lasting only between for example 4600 rpm and 4800rpm and then its gone

Exactly that. The most likely causes of an intermittent high load misfire on this engine are one or more bad spark plugs or bad coil packs breaking down at high revs.

 

The only other thing you can try is putting a professional grade fault reader on it soon after a misfire episode and checking codes, which might give you a narrative like "Misfire on cylinder 9" (I know it's a 4 cylinder engine, the 9 is a placeholder for the actual number).

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You might feel 'misfires' but not get a fault code logged for 'misfires' unless there are enough misfires in a cycle.

 

To get the 'misfires logging a fault code' you might need to be on Super Charger & Turbo under full load / acceleration.

 

That can then put you in 'Limp Mode' with the EPC or Exhaust Emissions light or both on, and on just 2 cylinders as the ECU shuts down 2, 

or disables the Turbo.

 

So do not experiment, booting it to get misfires, it can be terminal.

Also if in the outside lane with an Audi S3 up your chuff at twice a UK NSL going into limp mode is a brown trouser moment.

Got the T-Shirt, binned the undies.

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Update:

 

checked the plugs individually today and all seem in tact. A friend of mine works in a garage so he helped out and a few bystanders complimented the Denso Iridium plugs as being one of the best on the market (thank you Mr Skoffski) 

 

as the plugs seemed in tact, i swapped them between the cylinders and to be honest it seems like the misfire has gotten worse!

the plugs did all have some oil on them but 2 guys at the garage said that it’s normal however google haunted me with it potentially being a gasket fault/O ring fault etc.. so im not sure what to make of it?

 

thinking of changing the coil packs and hoping for the best but is that my next step?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Audi-A4-R8-Ignition-Coil-Packs-U5014-Coil-On-Plug-48041-Performance-Upgrade/312596422146?pageci=a188c278-cfb1-40c0-9583-daa9b74a9d16

 

looking at these ..

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10 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

Is it using any oil? bad rings will suck oil into the combustion chamber causing low compression and a misfire.

 

If not I'd look at the spark gap, then coils.

I was initially suspicious of oil usage but its not drinking any at all, if any a tiny bit. 

 

How would i check spark gap?

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I am stuck between going outright and purchasing 4 pack of R8 coils and seeing if that solves the issue, or taking the car to the VW/Audi specialist whom are a recommendation of AMD tuning which is local to me and paying them around the same cost of the coils for a thorough diagnostic?

and then further charges to resolve whatever issue they present on the table

 

What would you do?

 

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1 minute ago, FlexibleMouse said:

A spark is a spark, I doubt the R8 coils would offer you any benefit over a set of  standard coils except looking cool. 

Not quite true R8 spark plugs are Iridium which burns cooler and helps in the detonation process because cooling be it air or spark helps the combustion process and improve efficiency, reduce emissions and give more reliable power less pinking combined with high grade fuel such as 99 octane. Every little helps. Tests have shown using RS3 Coil Packs and R8 Spark Plugs in a Golf GtI WILL GIVE MORE POWER THAN THE STANDARD SET UP.:nerd:

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Re the

1.4 TSI 132-136kw CTHE Replacement engine that has been coded by someone.

Likely running the original ignition coils.

 

If the plugs are oiled after the car has been run hard and hot before stopping and cooling down and the plugs removed then something is wrong.

 

The Plugs might get sooted and foul, usually one does with a Twincharger which is the issue.

 

Main thing is to not let people without a clue mess about with a 2009-2014 1.4 TSI 132-136kw Twincharger.  Just go to people that know these engines.

 

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5 hours ago, RezaVrs said:

I am stuck between going outright and purchasing 4 pack of R8 coils and seeing if that solves the issue, or taking the car to the VW/Audi specialist whom are a recommendation of AMD tuning which is local to me and paying them around the same cost of the coils for a thorough diagnostic?

and then further charges to resolve whatever issue they present on the table

 

What would you do?

 

 

Remove the tune / map, put it back to standard map and see if the problem goes away, if it does, the tune needs tweaking AND or other parts to fix the issue with the tune is required. Whoever mapped it should really put it back free of charge to help diagnose a potential issue with "their" product.....

Edited by UrbanPanzer
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If you got a printout of your original 'map' you have something to compare to when re dyno car.

If the map was done WITHOUT a dyno printout and was a 'copy & paste' there might be an issue with it.

When my car was custom mapped by ADE they were tweaking & fine tuning it it for a good 2-3 hours

 

I would be wary of anyone who plugs you car in, maps then off you go, no Dyno, next customer please, 

A lot of folk can 'map' but not all have a DYNO ramp.

 

As post above before you see VAG specialist put the MAP back to original for a week and test it out (if all other avenues exhausted)

 

Edited by Kobayashi
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17 hours ago, shyVRS245 said:

Tests have shown using RS3 Coil Packs and R8 Spark Plugs in a Golf GtI WILL GIVE MORE POWER THAN THE STANDARD SET UP.

How much more? I presume that both tests are executed on the same day, and on the same rolling road.

 

I can get 10% more on the printout just by driving the car from Emerald to Jabbasport between runs.

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14 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

How much more? I presume that both tests are executed on the same day, and on the same rolling road.

 

I can get 10% more on the printout just by driving the car from Emerald to Jabbasport between runs.

Obviuosly the cooler the ambient temp the better plus higher figures nearer to sea level than in the ANDES.:D

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Hi peeps

 

i bought the coil packs and tried them today and they just dont fit.. they’re longer than the OEM and the connector plug doesnt fit at all

 

what am i doing wrong as i know many others have managed to fit these

image.jpg

image.jpg

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1 hour ago, RezaVrs said:

Hi peeps

 

i bought the coil packs and tried them today and they just dont fit.. they’re longer than the OEM and the connector plug doesnt fit at all

 

what am i doing wrong as i know many others have managed to fit these

image.jpg

image.jpg

After abit of fiddling around and trying different methods i managed to get cylinders 2,3,4 replaced however cylinder 1 would just not fit due to the GFB diverter valve connector plug, placed the OEM coil in there and the car just wouldnt start... replaced all of them back to stock coils and still wont start

i give up

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1 hour ago, RezaVrs said:

Hi peeps

 

i bought the coil packs and tried them today and they just dont fit.. they’re longer than the OEM and the connector plug doesnt fit at all

 

what am i doing wrong as i know many others have managed to fit these

image.jpg

image.jpg

What the hell is that one on the left?! 

 

I think you’ve still got some of your coil pack on a loom under your engine.

 

You need to buy an adapter for extra space it needs to cover

Edited by LGM
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9 minutes ago, LGM said:

What the hell is that one on the left?! 

 

I think you’ve still got some of your coil pack on a loom under your engine.

 

You need to buy an adapter for extra space it needs to cover

The one on the left is supposedly the OEM with the broken pin cover that i accidentally ripped off. 

 

Adapter for what?

 

is the one on the right the correct one? 

Is it normal for the car not wanting to start immediately after having the coils changed?

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21 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

The one on the left is supposedly the OEM with the broken pin cover that i accidentally ripped off. 

 

Adapter for what?

 

is the one on the right the correct one? 

Is it normal for the car not wanting to start immediately after having the coils changed?

Well yeh it looks like the right one, did you swap any wires over on the loom like I previously mentioned??

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