In a dilemma don’t know what to go for change whole setup from 312 / 272mm to 340 / 310mm or just change the Fronts 345 / 272mm.

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• Golf R32 Brake Kit 310mm TRW - Black

• EBC OE Discs + Yellowstuff Pads

• Genuine Front Skoda 340mm Setup

• EBC OE Discs + Yellowstuff Pads

• Hel Brake Lines

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• Racingline Stage 2 Monoblock Big Brake Kit 345mm - Red

• EBC OE Discs + Yellowstuff Pads

• Hel Rear Brake Lines

The main question is what's the reason for the upgrade?

Vehicle has got the following upgrades.

 

19” Xtremes Alloys,

Revo Carbon 2.0 Series Intake, 

Revo Stage One, 

Revo Rear Anti roll bar, 

Eibach Pro-Kit, 

Miltek CatBack, 

PowerFlex DogBone Mount, 

H&R Wheel Spacers 15mm / 20mm, 

 

For Fast road / Normal mainly countryside Driving - Power to Stopping Ratio On standard Setup 312 / 272.

 

As will then be looking into upgrading turbo from Darkside developments.

Hi well I've got the 340mm with yellow stuff pads in and got to say I'm well disappointed with the feel and braking power. Thought they would feel the same as my mk2 with an S3 setup on, but they were a lot nicer in feed back and stopping. I don't know if it's got something to do with the master cylinder and abs pump that's different to the mk3, but the feel is just not there. I've been looking at racingline monoblocks myself and also golf R 4pots from killerbrakes which are very well priced. 

26 minutes ago, B.DIFFERENT said:

Hi well I've got the 340mm with yellow stuff pads in and got to say I'm well disappointed with the feel and braking power.

Which discs ?

 

Mine are Fn great, yellowstuff with BSD Blades

Standard which was the same as my mk2 but comparing both side by side theres just not the feel or confidence in the mk3.

7 hours ago, tunedude said:

The main question is what's the reason for the upgrade?

 

Vehicle has got the following upgrades.

 

19” Xtremes Alloys,

Revo Carbon 2.0 Series Intake, 

Revo Stage One, 

Revo Rear Anti roll bar, 

Eibach Pro-Kit, 

Miltek CatBack, 

PowerFlex DogBone Mount, 

H&R Wheel Spacers 15mm / 20mm, 

 

For Fast road / Normal mainly countryside Driving - Power to Stopping Ratio On standard Setup 312 / 272. 

 

As will then be looking into upgrading turbo from Darkside developments.

1 hour ago, B.DIFFERENT said:

Hi well I've got the 340mm with yellow stuff pads in and got to say I'm well disappointed with the feel and braking power. Thought they would feel the same as my mk2 with an S3 setup on, but they were a lot nicer in feed back and stopping. I don't know if it's got something to do with the master cylinder and abs pump that's different to the mk3, but the feel is just not there. I've been looking at racingline monoblocks myself and also golf R 4pots from killerbrakes which are very well priced. 

 

What are you running on the Rear

272mm / 310mm.

8 hours ago, AndGibs1486 said:

In a dilemma don’t know what to go for change whole setup from 312 / 272mm to 340 / 310mm or just change the Fronts 345 / 272mm

 

It goes back to the second post. What are you finding wrong with the braking setup now?

 

Just because the car has more power doesn't mean the brakes are not up to it, it is how you drive.

 

 

1 hour ago, themanwithnoaim said:

Which discs ?

 

Mine are Fn great, yellowstuff with BSD Blades

 

Looking into getting

 

EBC OE Replacement Discs

EBC Yellowstuff Pads

8 minutes ago, flybynite said:

 

It goes back to the second post. What are you finding wrong with the braking setup now?

 

Just because the car has more power doesn't mean the brakes are not up to it, it is how you drive.

 

 

 

Im finding the setup to be good nothing wrong in my opinion I’m not a heavy breaker, 

but like the setup of the new vrs245. 

272 on the rear but that wont make that much difference as most of the stopping force is on the front. When I put 310 on the rear it just made it more stable under hard braking.

3 minutes ago, AndGibs1486 said:

Im finding the setup to be good nothing wrong in my opinion I’m not a heavy breaker, 

but like the setup of the new vrs245. 

 

I am going to play devils advocate here  leave them as-is until you find a problem.

The 340/310 setup is ok but it is HEAVY you are adding a LOT of unsprung weight to the chassis and rotational mass to the drivetrain.  Believe me you do feel that difference, It can make the front feel 'crashy' especially on the lighter petrol. A diesel 4x4 has a bit more sprung weight to counteract it over both axles and a bit more torque to get the rotating metal moving,

 

There is not a great difference between the 2 setups. If both are working well you would be pushed to tell the difference braking wise.  It can be a disappointing upgrade if the 312s are in good order. I drive these setups back to back almost on a daily basis with same make pads and disks.

 

The 340mm disk is at the limit for what works for a single pot caliper, it can get 'grabby' at times The 312 is better behaved. If you can't live with the 312/272 then I would go for a proper brake upgrade from the likes of VagBremTechnic. 

17 minutes ago, flybynite said:

 

I am going to play devils advocate here  leave them as-is until you find a problem.

The 340/310 setup is ok but it is HEAVY you are adding a LOT of unsprung weight to the chassis and rotational mass to the drivetrain.  Believe me you do feel that difference, It can make the front feel 'crashy' especially on the lighter petrol. A diesel 4x4 has a bit more sprung weight to counteract it over both axles and a bit more torque to get the rotating metal moving,

 

There is not a great difference between the 2 setups. If both are working well you would be pushed to tell the difference braking wise.  It can be a disappointing upgrade if the 312s are in good order. I drive these setups back to back almost on a daily basis with same make pads and disks.

 

The 340mm disk is at the limit for what works for a single pot caliper, it can get 'grabby' at times The 312 is better behaved. If you can't live with the 312/272 then I would go for a proper brake upgrade from the likes of VagBremTechnic. 

 

Many thanks for all your help, appreciate the insight.

I've got my eye on the racingline brake kit because, as your does as well, mine came with the 312mm fronts as well. However, I want to change the suspension and wheels side first.

 

I see alloys are on the list of mods you've done but the most important question is what tyres have you got wrapped round them? I'm not necessarily finding my 312mm's are underpowered, but more the tyres (the unfortunately longer lasting than one anticipated standard Potenzas) don't have the ability to stay stuck to the tarmac.

 

The other thing which I found out on my old i20 was touching the rears done sod all to improve the braking. A good number of track days taught me this. Upgrading the front pads and throwing in a decent brake fluid meant I didn't end up with a spongy pedal anymore. Didn't notice any difference when I upgraded the rear pads. Obviously on a car which is around half a ton heavier and somewhat longer, then the improvements may be more noticeable.

 

The only reason I'd be touching the rears on my octavia is for cosmetic reasons; the standard 272's look like milk bottle tops when accompanied by 19's.

10 minutes ago, tunedude said:

I've got my eye on the racingline brake kit because, as your does as well, mine came with the 312mm fronts as well. However, I want to change the suspension and wheels side first.

 

I see alloys are on the list of mods you've done but the most important question is what tyres have you got wrapped round them? I'm not necessarily finding my 312mm's are underpowered, but more the tyres (the unfortunately longer lasting than one anticipated standard Potenzas) don't have the ability to stay stuck to the tarmac.

 

The other thing which I found out on my old i20 was touching the rears done sod all to improve the braking. A good number of track days taught me this. Upgrading the front pads and throwing in a decent brake fluid meant I didn't end up with a spongy pedal anymore. Didn't notice any difference when I upgraded the rear pads. Obviously on a car which is around half a ton heavier and somewhat longer, then the improvements may be more noticeable.

 

The only reason I'd be touching the rears on my octavia is for cosmetic reasons; the standard 272's look like milk bottle tops when accompanied by 19's.

 

Thinking for now going Racingline 345mm brake kit, with uprated rear 272 discs and pads, goodridge brake lines, dot 5.1 fluid

 

thats the only thing I would be doing it for cosmetic.

 

happy with eibach springs

bilstein b6/b8 shocks when factory fails

 

running  Michelin pilot sport 4s 235/35/19

12 minutes ago, AndGibs1486 said:

 

Thinking for now going Racingline 345mm brake kit, with uprated rear 272 discs and pads, goodridge brake lines, dot 5.1 fluid

 

thats the only thing I would be doing it for cosmetic.

 

happy with eibach springs

bilstein b6/b8 shocks when factory fails

 

running  Michelin pilot sport 4s 235/35/19

 

That I feel would be the more sensible choice rather than going with OEM 340mm's. I looked at putting 5.1 in my track bike, but I was advised the high end DOT 4 fluid is more than capable. Whichever fluid you choose, I'd get a braided clutch line as well, just with you draining the whole system. The less rubber the better.

 

And good choice of tyre 👍. They're on my list of things to get.

 

 

1 hour ago, AndGibs1486 said:

dot 5.1 fluid

 

58 minutes ago, tunedude said:

high end DOT 4 fluid is more than capable.

 

It is not just more than capable it is better at the job it is used for. It does not have to compromise its high temp performance to achieve the low temp certification like DOT 5.1 has to.

 

Most high-end brake suppliers use DOT4

25 minutes ago, flybynite said:

 

 

It is not just more than capable it is better at the job it is used for. It does not have to compromise its high temp performance to achieve the low temp certification like DOT 5.1 has to.

 

Most high-end brake suppliers use DOT4

 

Castrol react is my choice of fluid. 

22 minutes ago, tunedude said:

Castrol react is my choice of fluid. 

 

Nothing wrong with that,

 

ATE Racing Blue is what I have always used (now called type 200) however, in the Octy I am now using ATE SL6. It is not cheap but the system seems to like it.

12 hours ago, AndGibs1486 said:

 

Looking into getting

 

EBC OE Replacement Discs

EBC Yellowstuff Pads

Not sure about the plain discs, I do some big stops so, wanted to get rid of dust without any buildups, certainly does that, takes Fn ages to get the wheels clean

2 hours ago, themanwithnoaim said:

Not sure about the plain discs, I do some big stops so, wanted to get rid of dust without any buildups, certainly does that, takes Fn ages to get the wheels clean

 

Yeah, I've been advised ones with the grooves in does the job of getting rid of the gases when the temperature increases.

 

Drilled ones don't get a good write up. Too many opportunities for cracking

11 hours ago, themanwithnoaim said:

Not sure about the plain discs,

 

9 hours ago, tunedude said:

Yeah, I've been advised ones with the grooves in does the job of getting rid of the gases when the temperature increases.

 

And it gives you less braking area than plain disks, less metal to soak the heat, fine if you are doing it for looks but I wouldn't waste your money unless you are tracking the car on a hot day. Never found an issue with plain disks and a morning on the brake rollers didn't convince me otherwise.