Convert electric bootlid to gas struts

[AndreasTornqvist]

Hi all,

 

I've got a 2011 Superb estate with an electric bootlid. The bootlid motors have now failed and I've decided to replace them with normal gas struts. However, when I close the lid forcibly (since the motors aren't running), the lid doesn't lock all the way down and the whirring from the locking mechanism doesn't sound. It cannot open without pressing the opening button, but there is a glitch as it isn't locked tight.

 

My question is now this. If I replace the motors with the gas struts, how do I deal with the bootlid lock? Is there an electric by-pass, or do I need to replace the lock as well?

[3T51704x4]

Not looked into it but I suspect you just need to fit a normal striker plate in place of the motorised striker plate on the slam panel. Or set your one in the closed position and disconnect it. Will have a look at mine when I get time.

 

 

Edited 27 October, 2019 by 3T51704x4

[spk]

I seem to have the same problems. Did you ever get a chance to look at this? @3T51704x4

[AndreasTornqvist]

I haven't yet, no. I'm planning on just changing the struts and then see what else need fixing.

 

Did your struts stop working at different times? For me, the lid first only opened half-way, then a couple of days later it stopped working entirely. That's apparently how it "should" be like when the motors stop working. If both stop working simultaneously, the error could be somewhere else

[williamshatnerspants]

I'm at the same stage too. I've heard that this conversion has been done before so would be keen to hear from anyone who has done it.

[spk]

On 19/11/2019 at 07:51, AndreasTornqvist said:

I haven't yet, no. I'm planning on just changing the struts and then see what else need fixing.

 

Did your struts stop working at different times? For me, the lid first only opened half-way, then a couple of days later it stopped working entirely. That's apparently how it "should" be like when the motors stop working. If both stop working simultaneously, the error could be somewhere else

 

Yes, that seems to be the case. It's hard to be sure...one strut has definitely been leaking for a while. It's become obvious that has been the case because one bolt fixing it to the body has been protected by leaking oil, the other has corroded! The other strut harder to tell visually if there's anything wrong but generally the boot doesn't open at all now. On occasion it will. Randomly stopping half way through opening was how it started earlier in the year though.

[Lutz]

Before doing any conversation from electric to manual boot lid I strongly suggest to open the electric struts and figure out, why motors are not working. Most common issue is rusty electric motor brushes springs and they will brake. I’m currently repairing one strut with new spring, which I made from 016 music (guitar) wire. Also when putting all back together be sure, that you added enough new sealant to close the strut correctly.

[jtmattila]

Converting the electric to gas is a plug and play. All you need is a pair of gas struts. And maybe a blind seal for the wires. I have the oem seal number some where. This type of conversion forces you to escort the boot lid down. You can't slam it. The electric motor will suck the lid closed. 

[spk]

On 02/12/2019 at 09:46, jtmattila said:

Converting the electric to gas is a plug and play. All you need is a pair of gas struts. And maybe a blind seal for the wires. I have the oem seal number some where. This type of conversion forces you to escort the boot lid down. You can't slam it. The electric motor will suck the lid closed. 

 

Hi - do you have the seal part number?

 

Also when you say the electric motor sucks the boot lid closed - it seems like this wouldn't be the case after a conversion to gas struts. I'm not aware there is any other motors once the powered struts are removed...or am I misunderstanding?

 

Cheers,

Steve

[jtmattila]

 

8 hours ago, spk said:

 

Hi - do you have the seal part number?

 

Also when you say the electric motor sucks the boot lid closed - it seems like this wouldn't be the case after a conversion to gas struts. I'm not aware there is any other motors once the powered struts are removed...or am I misunderstanding?

 

Cheers,

Steve

At least my Superb sucks the boot lid closed. The electric motor is in the lock module. The motor is linked via indoor lights. When the indoor lights fuse burned the boot lid did not fully closed.

The part number for the seals

is 3T9827721

[AndreasTornqvist]

Hi everyone,

 

I did the replacement yesterday, and put in gas struts. I opened the electric struts trying to figure out what was wrong but without success. A couple of wires needed soldering back together, but when I put it together they wouldn't move, not even forcibly as before. I gave up, thinking this was not a long term solution anyway, as they could break down any day again.

 

Regarding the lock, it did not suck close after the lid shut. I could however apply 12v to the lock manually to suck it closed and then disconnect the wire. The car does however thing the lid is open. Either the lock sensors or the strut sensors need to be by-passed.

[spk]

On 01/01/2020 at 15:37, AndreasTornqvist said:

Regarding the lock, it did not suck close after the lid shut. I could however apply 12v to the lock manually to suck it closed and then disconnect the wire. The car does however thing the lid is open. Either the lock sensors or the strut sensors need to be by-passed.

 

...and presumably fit the normal striker plate to resolve this?

[AndreasTornqvist]

1 hour ago, spk said:

 

...and presumably fit the normal striker plate to resolve this?

Actually, this was an error by me, as I tightened the lock to the degree that I have to shut the lid quite hard to close it. When it is closed all the way down, it is registered as closed. Ergo, just unplugging the striker plate works fine.

[Gilliehead]

Sorry andreas... Can you explain what you did to allow it to fully close? Mine is currently doing as per the photo post changing to gas.

Cheers!

[Gilliehead]

Or anyone for that matter. 😀

[AndreasTornqvist]

Hi Gilliehead,

 

If you study the striker plate (the part in the chassi), there is a metal rod that the bootlid locks on to. If you press it, you should be able to push it down with your thumb, and it should spring back when you lift the thumb.

 

The car normally pulls this down after the electric motors have registered that they have pulled all the way down. This doesn't happen either because the motors aren't running, or the sensor cables are broken.

 

To lock the metal rod in locked position, you need to remove the cover to access the striker plate. After this is removed, you should be able to remove the striker plate. Now you can manually pull the metal rod down. Find a 12V source (e.g. a car battery) and apply to the two pins for positive and ground. You may have to try around to find which are which.

 

After the metal rod is pulled all the way back, reinstall the striker plate without pluging it back in. That should be it

[Gilliehead]

Thank you so much for the help AndreasTornqvist. I'll give it a go.

[williamshatnerspants]

I would love a video or document showing all of the above so future generations of Superb owners can convert to gas when their struts fail.

 

;o)

[gav_is_con]

5 hours ago, williamshatnerspants said:

I would love a video or document showing all of the above so future generations of Superb owners can convert to gas when their struts fail.

 

;o)

Same here

Also where to buy parts, part numbers etc. I did contact someone on here who used SGS Engineering to order a set via PM but alas no reply, assumed no longer on the forum. 

[Gilliehead]

Hey all,

 

This is what I did for the people who wonder.

 

My car was a Octavia Scout but from what I was told it works for a Superb.

 

Firstly the struts failed, told $2200 to replace outside of warranty.

I bought non Skoda gas struts available here is https://skodaparts.co.nz/2869-gas-strut who sell multiple Skoda/factory struts. Though all factory strut places will have customizable ones.

I took my car to a strut person who had no idea, but basically all we did was pop off the two electric struts (easy to do), held boot up with broom.

Disconnected the two connections on either side that sit in the arms of the rear of the car, had to remove a cover on either side to do so.

I then replaced with the new struts. The hole where the electrics come out is open still - I have yet to cover.

 

I then had an issue as above where it wouldn't fully close.

I took my car to an auto electrician who did as recommended above and took the locking plate down lower so it locks at the correct height when closed as the engagement system whereby the boot is lowered electronically on locking doesn't work now.

It still beeps three times on opening, but all electrics work fine. No failing of these struts I hope.

 

Cheers.

[williamshatnerspants]

On 13/02/2020 at 18:59, Gilliehead said:

Hey all,

 

This is what I did for the people who wonder.

 

My car was a Octavia Scout but from what I was told it works for a Superb.

 

Firstly the struts failed, told $2200 to replace outside of warranty.

I bought non Skoda gas struts available here is https://skodaparts.co.nz/2869-gas-strut who sell multiple Skoda/factory struts. Though all factory strut places will have customizable ones.

I took my car to a strut person who had no idea, but basically all we did was pop off the two electric struts (easy to do), held boot up with broom.

Disconnected the two connections on either side that sit in the arms of the rear of the car, had to remove a cover on either side to do so.

I then replaced with the new struts. The hole where the electrics come out is open still - I have yet to cover.

 

I then had an issue as above where it wouldn't fully close.

I took my car to an auto electrician who did as recommended above and took the locking plate down lower so it locks at the correct height when closed as the engagement system whereby the boot is lowered electronically on locking doesn't work now.

It still beeps three times on opening, but all electrics work fine. No failing of these struts I hope.

 

Cheers.

 

Hi,

Wondering if you are in Auckland and could tell me which auto electrician you used?

Thanks

Matt

 

 

 

[TerryJP]

The deed is done!

 

Today I removed the electric struts. and fitted the gas struts. The boot lock works fine and the boot cover retracts as before, even the remote on the key and the switch on the dash releases the lock.

 

The only problem was removing the cover to access the wiring connections, tried it on the one side but just cut through the wires on the other. I left the wiring grommets in place to keep the water out. All seems fine so far, no warning lights , fingers crossed 🤞 .

Thanks to everyone for their ideas and support.

[gav_is_con]

2 hours ago, Lawlesstce said:

The deed is done!

 

Today I removed the electric struts. and fitted the gas struts. The boot lock works fine and the boot cover retracts as before, even the remote on the key and the switch on the dash releases the lock.

 

The only problem was removing the cover to access the wiring connections, tried it on the one side but just cut through the wires on the other. I left the wiring grommets in place to keep the water out. All seems fine so far, no warning lights , fingers crossed 🤞 .

Thanks to everyone for their ideas and support.

From where did you obtain the parts to replace the electric one. Any links prices etc ?

[TerryJP]

Hi there,

I obtained the parts from :-

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/

 

STARK Gas Spring, boot- / cargo area Article number: 430719110000 2 items x GBP 11,48

In stock GBP 22,96

ITEMS TO RETURN OR REPLACE

 

 

 

Position	Article №	Description of the product	Quantity	Price per unit GBP	Total price in GBP
1.	430719110000	Gas Spring, boot- / cargo area	2	11,48	22,96

 

Subtotal:	£ 22,96
Delivery:	£ 8,45
incl. 20% VAT	£ 5,24
Everything seems to be working ok , at the moment✌✌🤞.    There is a web site https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/  which you can use to find the part number you require, then do a web search on that part number. There are loads of suppliers.	£ 31,41

[spk]

On 28/05/2020 at 20:15, Lawlesstce said:

The deed is done!

 

Today I removed the electric struts. and fitted the gas struts. The boot lock works fine and the boot cover retracts as before, even the remote on the key and the switch on the dash releases the lock.

 

The only problem was removing the cover to access the wiring connections, tried it on the one side but just cut through the wires on the other. I left the wiring grommets in place to keep the water out. All seems fine so far, no warning lights , fingers crossed 🤞 .

Thanks to everyone for their ideas and support.

 

So this sounds like you didn't need to get an automotive electrician involved or do anything with the lock mechanism to get it to shut properly still...?

 

Cheers,

Steve