So yesterday I come to fit the winter wheels - to find I can't get the bolts off, these were fitted by me with a torque wrench in March, but car has been for a service in the interim - I am guessing some technician has done them too tight with a windy gun.   With a large lever I got the 4 normal bolts off but the security key would not stay in the slot and keeps skipping out wearing the key pattern on each attempt.   

 

The problem is keeping enough force along the axis of the bolt to keep the keep key in place whilst trying to rotate it with a large lever that forces it off.  I tried traditional wheel brace with two arms  and leaning to force it against the wheel but it keeps skipping.

 

Should anyone else be in same position after much swearing and attempts the following worked.

 

1 - Position car wheel about 30 cm from the edge of brick garage with face of wheel parallel to the wall (get Mr NEskod to help reverse into the gap so you don't prang car)

2 - Use 17mm socket and the adapter with 90 degree hole in it to put a bar through it

3 - Use the car jack to apply the axial pressure

4 - Rotate bolt with lever

 

Have just purchased 4 normal bolts from scrappy  - I think of risk of being stranded at roadside with stuck wheel is far higher than having my knackered alloys nicked!

 

Great improvisation there, I'm impressed 

 

41 minutes ago, NESskod said:

I think of risk of being stranded at roadside with stuck wheel is far higher than having my knackered alloys nicked!

 

On the Skoda I bought new the locking wheel bolts came off on the second day when I was at home.

 

Thanks AG Falco

Another trick is if you have some old imperial sockets or cheap sockets you don't use anymore or aren't bother about destroying, you can pound them on over the head of the locking wheel bolt (if the wheel bolt shape is conducive to this technique) then attach your ratchet or wheel brace and simply undo, also the act of hammering on the old socket can help shock loosen the stuck stuck/stripped head locking wheel bolt. 

Edited 10 November, 20196 yr by Gmac983

2 hours ago, Gmac983 said:

Another trick is if you have some old imperial sockets or cheap sockets you don't use anymore or aren't bother about destroying, you can pound them on over the head of the locking wheel bolt (if the wheel bolt shape is conducive to this technique) then attach your ratchet or wheel brace and simply undo, also the act of hammering on the old socket can help shock loosen the stuck stuck/stripped head locking wheel bolt. 

 

Indeed even just trying to take them back off with a windy gun sometimes has enough to undo them.

 

A local garage took one of my locking nuts off for £12 when that key had rounded off (and damaged the nut in the process).

Ah,those locking bolts!!

I’ve been in the habit of exchanging the current sort for the earlier type,the sort with the splined fitting,which have a greater depth of gripping area and should still come off in the usual way even if overtightened.

Some years ago I bought an Audi with a stuck locker...various removal methods failed and finally the head was ground off, wheel removed,then the stub of the bolt heated red and unscrewed with mole grips...a lengthy procedure with much cursing.

Yep its the service that does it, watched them do it on one of mine, windy gun haphazardly shoved on with one limp wrist and the next thing is him looking around for help "oh the threads stripped" 

 

None of mine ever go in to service with a locker on, stick on a normal nut/bolt that morning, swap it back that evening when I re-torque the bolts and re-do the tyre pressures after the 'service'

 

Loosen with a breaker bar, tighten with a torque wrench and if it won't go the rest of the way by spinning the spider with a finger then it piont to a bit of work needed on the threads (normally caused by said fitter at the dealership) Never stripped or rounded a locker that way.

 

Easiest way (if you have a mig handy) is weld a nut through the hole on to the centre of the locker (good for those that have a spinning outside to the bolt head) Hit it with pipe freeze to shock it and loosen it, sometimes comes off with fingers after that but never used more than the old spider.

 

 

Just now, flybynite said:

Yep its the service that does it, watched them do it on one of mine, windy gun haphazardly shoved on with one limp wrist and the next thing is him looking around for help "oh the threads stripped" 

 

None of mine ever go in to service with a locker on, stick on a normal nut/bolt that morning, swap it back that evening when I re-torque the bolts and re-do the tyre pressures after the 'service'

 

Loosen with a breaker bar, tighten with a torque wrench and if it won't go the rest of the way by spinning the spider with a finger then it piont to a bit of work needed on the threads (normally caused by said fitter at the dealership) Never stripped or rounded a locker that way.

 

Easiest way (if you have a mig handy) is weld a nut through the hole on to the centre of the locker (good for those that have a spinning outside to the bolt head) Hit it with pipe freeze to shock it and loosen it, sometimes comes off with fingers after that but never used more than the old spider.

 

 

 

Tyre place did both methods. One chap was using a bar and socket and torque wrench, the other guy was using the impact. But to be fair to him, he didn't go full beans, started the bolt by hand, and finished with the torque wrench (to make sure it was at least 120).

 

They also had the plastic sleeved sockets, which I had never seen before, but have now invested in one that's to live with my spare wheel (along with an extendable ratchet to come).

4 minutes ago, micro said:

Tyre place did both methods. One chap was using a bar and socket and torque wrench, the other guy was using the impact. But to be fair to him, he didn't go full beans, started the bolt by hand, and finished with the torque wrench (to make sure it was at least 120).

 

You can still strip them with a bar if you don't hold it on tight enough, just as a windy gun, but if it has been rounded previously not a lot to do with them but get them off by whatever favourite method and replace.

 

7 minutes ago, micro said:

They also had the plastic sleeved sockets, which I had never seen before, but have now invested in one that's to live with my spare wheel (along with an extendable ratchet to come).

 

They are OK, look fancy and I do use them myself but they only really protect the alloy from ham-fisting the socket on and off.

I remember once seeing the owner and boss at my decent local tyre shop actually kicking his new apprentices *rse for using a windy gun on a customers locking wheel bolts 🤣, windy gun only to be used on standard wheel bolts not locking ones, locking wheel bolt adapters/keys aren't even impact rated (as far as I know anyway). 

Always undo the the locking bolt first before the others bolts ,less pressure on it then .

2 hours ago, Mickvrs220 said:

Always undo the the locking bolt first before the others bolts ,less pressure on it then .

 

And then do it up last as well.

 

Thanks AG Falco

Love the improvisation, just glad you didn't push the bricks out on the garage.

 

If you over tighten the wheel nuts either side of the locking nut it helps take the stress off so it is easier to undo. At least you've got it sorted and all those years of watching the A Team weren't a waste of time.

From recent experience helping a friend with stubborn bolts, don't neglect the possibility that it's the key/tool that is worn out as well as or instead of the bolts.