Just fitted a Nextbase Dashcam that was previously in my Yeti into my new SKodiaq.

All fitted ok but the fuse locations don’t match up with the manual.

Disconnected what I thought was fuse 34 as recommended in the excellent installation guide 

 

problem being as soon as I disconnected what should be fuse 34 the airbag warning came up. It’s definitely 3rd along from the left.

I’ve ended up using the next along Fuse 35 which flagged up a parking aid/assist warning but works fine for ignition on activation of the dashcam.

According to the latest on line manual and car manual the 3rd along should be fuse 34 (Air conditioning, reversing light switch, mirror.  I'm Either going mad, blind or both or my Kodiaq’s fuse locations are somehow "bespoke" 

The only problem I have now is that the airbag warning comes up when I turn on the ignition. What’s the best way of getting it reset?

I don’t paying a few quid for a gadget to clear it as it would be useful in the future rather than going to a local VW specialist garage.

 

Many thanks

If you get a chance take a picture of your fuse box and highlight which fuse it was you removed. Skoda went through a period of reversing their fuse locations on the sticker that they used to apply to the inside surface of the dash end panel, but the illustration in the manual should be accurate.

 

The only way to clear the airbag warning light now is with a diagnostic tool / code reader.

 

Carista gets good reviews, and the first month's access is free when you buy the £15.99 OBD dongle. There are lots of others to choose from without the subscription, but they're a little hit and miss in terms of what they can actually do.

 

EDIT, their price has jumped quite a bit since I last looked...

 

 

https://caristaapp.com/pricing

 

Alternatively use the VCDS owners map to see if there is anyone local to you who might be prepared to reset the light for a few beer tokens. Unfortunately users are becoming few and far between...

 

 

If it was proven that the fuse layout on your car doesn't match the manual then I reckon with a little phoning around and a disgruntled voice you'd have a good chance of getting Skoda UK customer services and/or the dealer to reset it for you for free!?

 

Edited 9 March, 20206 yr by silver1011

Thanks Silver, I’ve got it reset now by my friendly VW specialist so all good.

Maybe they are reversed, the pic attached shows which one is the airbag. Which is confirmed by afterwards taking the fuse in and out and the amber airbag light in front of the gear-lever going on/off.

That was quick, great news though!

 

Interesting, here is my fuse box, the amperage of the mini-fuses on the same row as yours do seem to differ slightly so there are clearly variances car-to-car...

 

 

Fuse #34 is indeed the same as yours, "Air conditioning, reverse light switch, mirror with automatic dimming, seat heating, parking brake, light switches, bar with switches, electric auxiliary heating, USB ports".

 

I wonder if "bar with switches" has anything to do with it, isn't this where the actual airbag warning light is located? I can't think which of the other functions would be related to the airbags?

 

 

 

Interesting though that fuse #33 "airbag" on my car is 5A, whereas on yours it is 7.5A.

 

Does your Kodiaq have the factory cost option rear side airbags fitted I wonder?

 

 

Edited 9 March, 20206 yr by silver1011

Hi,

Maybe...but No I don’t have any airbag options fitted, it’s very strange why they’re reversed.
Bad enough that the fuse panel is such a pain the a** to get to behind the glove box and then find their not numbered correctly.  😩

On 09/03/2020 at 15:49, silver1011 said:

...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When fitting a dash cam to a Yeti, it was recommended to use the rear wiper fuse to avoid issues such as this.

On the picture above, it is the 15 amp, blue one, on its own in the bottom row.

 

That is the same advice on the Kodiaq too, unfortunately, as mentioned earlier the use of the 15A rear wash wipe fuse is precluded on some models of the Kodiaq, such as mine, that are fitted with electrically operated front seats and the electrically opening and closing boot lid.

 

This is because these two features (the latter not being available on the Yeti) means fuse positions 45 and 50 are occupied, preventing the use of a piggyback fuse holder as the larger than usual fuses obstruct the proper fitment of the fuse holder...

 

On 25/04/2020 at 11:01, silver1011 said:

That is the same advice on the Kodiaq too, unfortunately, as mentioned earlier the use of the 15A rear wash wipe fuse is precluded on some models of the Kodiaq, such as mine, that are fitted with electrically operated front seats and the electrically opening and closing boot lid.

 

This is because these two features (the latter not being available on the Yeti) means fuse positions 45 and 50 are occupied, preventing the use of a piggyback fuse holder as the larger than usual fuses obstruct the proper fitment of the fuse holder...

 

 

Ah, that’s a bugger!

I did rule out fitting to the left, but thought the right would be able to squeeze the piggyback into.

 

I’ve since moved the connection to the 15a wiper motor fuse. I couldn’t when I originally fitted it as I couldn’t find my Nextbase piggyback adaptor for the larger fuse.

I didn’t have a problem with fitting the piggyback connector as I don’t have many fuses fitted adjacent to it.

6 hours ago, CFB said:

Ah, that’s a bugger!

I did rule out fitting to the left, but thought the right would be able to squeeze the piggyback into.

 

Yes, unfortunately the piggybacked fuse does rest against the pink 30A fuse. It does fit but not flush.

 

I wanted a nice solid fit, friction on the terminals of a poorly fitting fuse is rarely good.

 

I am sure there will be slightly different designs and manufacturers of piggyback fuse holders, it might be some are slightly more compact than others and therefore may well fit unimpeded.

 

I instead moved to a mini-fuse holder instead and was able to use a different switched live location.

On 29/04/2020 at 16:46, silver1011 said:

 

Yes, unfortunately the piggybacked fuse does rest against the pink 30A fuse. It does fit but not flush.

 

I wanted a nice solid fit, friction on the terminals of a poorly fitting fuse is rarely good.

 

I am sure there will be slightly different designs and manufacturers of piggyback fuse holders, it might be some are slightly more compact than others and therefore may well fit unimpeded.

 

I instead moved to a mini-fuse holder instead and was able to use a different switched live location.

Revisiting this, I came across these...

https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fuses/halfords-blade-fuse-plus-breakout-wire-15-amp-hfs294-704953.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=rwxatlwq&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695754|agid:43902127335|tid:pla-403443993023|crid:203186037801|nw:g|rnd:1257354947433158536|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1006786&gclid=CjwKCAiAlNf-BRB_EiwA2osbxYs2PxRnP7EZU75eOozXSpk1j-F0PqLILsC2_reg910WITcdL3xeQhoCD9kQAvD_BwE

 

I’ve not been brave enough to remove the glove box yet, but would one of those work, or would the fuse box cover not close over it?

I used a breakout wire akin to the one in the link above. It allows you to use the rear wiper fuse and not be restricted

Edited 15 December, 20205 yr by jasoncmiles

On 09/03/2020 at 15:49, silver1011 said:

clearly variances car-to-car...

I have never seen blade fuses with "S£ on them, does that signify slow blow per chance?

9 hours ago, superbdreams said:

I have never seen blade fuses with "S£ on them, does that signify slow blow per chance?

That was first thought too, but can’t work out the E 

12 hours ago, jasoncmiles said:

I used a breakout wire akin to the one in the link above. It allows you to use the rear wiper fuse and not be restricted

I would be a bit worried using one of these, as it looks like if it is inserted the wrong way the flying lead could be un fused.

14 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

I would be a bit worried using one of these, as it looks like if it is inserted the wrong way the flying lead could be un fused.

That is the same with the piggy back type.

The only difference is that the fuse on the piggy back for the accessory is directly on the fuse board.

The flying lead type needs an inline fuse as close to the fuse board as possible.

1 minute ago, CFB said:

That is the same with the piggy back type.

The only difference is that the fuse on the piggy back for the accessory is directly on the fuse board.

The flying lead type needs an inline fuse as close to the fuse board as possible.

The flying lead is never unprotected on a piggyback fuse no matter of its orientation.  If it is fitted the “wrong way” all it means is that the accessory fuse is in series with the original circuit fuse.

Thinking about it, you’re right. I was going by what I was advised some time ago. Every day is a learning day. 

On 16/12/2020 at 08:34, Kenny R said:

I would be a bit worried using one of these, as it looks like if it is inserted the wrong way the flying lead could be un fused.

As above, you need an inline fuse. Use a multimeter with the fuse out to determine the positive and insert accordingly or wiring diagram.  Obviously not on a fuse that will trigger an issue such as the airbag. Rear wiper was my choice. The other option was the blind spot fuse (if you have the option). Decided to determine the polarity as I did not want to draw extra current across the fuse that was drawn off. Not that it really matters with the original fuse rating plus the small current draw of the dash cam.

Edited 18 December, 20205 yr by jasoncmiles

As an aside, does anyone know if fuse position 46 (230V socket, which was not an option for UK cars) is actually 'live' and if so, what the fuse rating would be?

 

Similarly Q for fuse 51 (heated rear seats) - if the option was not selected, is the fuse position live?

 

Thinking about having an ignition-only 12V socket installed, so intrigued by the discussion above, and the very useful photos of the actual fuse box

 

Thanks

2 hours ago, SinglePointSafety said:

As an aside, does anyone know if fuse position 46 (230V socket, which was not an option for UK cars) is actually 'live' and if so, what the fuse rating would be?

 

Similarly Q for fuse 51 (heated rear seats) - if the option was not selected, is the fuse position live?

 

Thinking about having an ignition-only 12V socket installed, so intrigued by the discussion above, and the very useful photos of the actual fuse box

 

Thanks

 

This may assist, albeit as of October 2016: Kodiaq - Fitting Locations - Fuses.pdf

Thanks Arkaig, much appreciated, the file tells me the fuse rating - which is very useful - but not the information I need ie is the fuse position actually 'live' if the option isn't fitted? (because not wiring the fuse location might save Skoda, ooh, I dunno, a few pennies.....)

On 19/12/2020 at 10:53, SinglePointSafety said:

As an aside, does anyone know if fuse position 46 (230V socket, which was not an option for UK cars) is actually 'live' and if so, what the fuse rating would be?

 

Similarly Q for fuse 51 (heated rear seats) - if the option was not selected, is the fuse position live?

 

Thinking about having an ignition-only 12V socket installed, so intrigued by the discussion above, and the very useful photos of the actual fuse box

 

Thanks

 

Position 46 and 51 are not wired on my MY17 Edition. There are two wired and empty positions related to the tow-bar (which I don't have fitted), but they seem to be constantly powered. I'd like to do the same as you're planning, so I might do some more investigating over the holidays.  

Thanks Teir, I kind of suspected that would be the situation, which tells us something interesting about how 'individual' each car really is, down to option- and market-dependent fusebox wiring

I'm a bit surprised about the heated rear seats to be honest, because it does seem that a lot of the options (as opposed to market-dependent features) are wired up. For instance, the heated steering wheel fuse position is wired in my car (i.e., the position is live, but it's not wired through to the steering wheel), which is handy, as that's a retrofit I'm considering!