Start Stop Error, ECP and Engine Light after not using a car for a bit

[EdHru]

Hi all hope you are keeping well and safe at these strange times.

 

I wonder if someone could kindly shed some light on the issue that my Fabia mk3 (Manual, 1.2tsi 110bhp) has manifested two days ago. The car is 17 plate with 16k on the clock. Due to the current situation the car is not in regular use, even before this, I was not using it that much as I am working from home and would probably cover apx 40miles per week (20min journey each way twice a week when in the office on a A road, so normal speed 55mph).

 

For the last 4 weeks car has moved maybe 3-4 times to the shop (5 miles round trip) to town driving below 30mph. Neighbour has given me a CTEK 3.8 charger to maintain my battery for a bit, trickle charged it for just over a week, and then this strange issue appeared. So, after this charge I decided to go to the shop, disconnected it all (but I honestly did not know that the negative clamp should NOT be connected to the negative battery terminal, only found this out last night reading further on the forum, so lesion learned in that respect as my car is start-stop, button ignition, NOT kessy).

 

When I stated the car on the display a message popped up “Start-Stop Error”, and when I moved on then orange ECP light lit up as well. Drove to the shop turned off the car, switched back on no messages of any sort. On the way back, a mile into the journey ECP light lit up and orange engine symbol lit up as well.

 

Scanned it with Carista OBD2, which detected 4 faults:

 

• P003A (Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit).  
• CAN network gateway – 197175 (Manufacturer specific code)
• Central electronics – 233224 (Manufacturer specific code)
• Engine – 16434 (Manufacturer specific code)

 

Neighbour suggested to give it an Italian clean (aka. give it a rag in low gears uphill where we live). I did that took it on an empty road couple of times, high revs etc upto 60mph, needle hitting 6k revs when in lower gear, no limp mode, and the lights never came back on??? Took it yesterday as well for a hard revs/drive to test it, nothing no lights, drives normal. Re-scan with Carista OBD no faults found, ECU scan as well  - no fault codes on any of the components, nothing completely clean.

 

What could cause this:

 

• Could it be that a turbo was sticking (wastegate) which could identified as an over-boost when I was slowing down to turn (foot of gas) due to the lack of car use?

 

• Could a CTEK charger confuse the system hence that Error start-stop msg, as I connected the charger wrongly (negative clamp on negative battery terminal instead of earth point on a car, (thanks to XMANs post on other thread) and cause all this mayhem?). Could that cause it? Is it safe to keep the changer on trickle for longer given the current non-car use situation?

 

I must admit that I am not the fastest driver anyway, never raged the cars, fuel economy fanatic, always change gear below 2k revs, so maybe a turbo needed that clean perhaps?

 

Sorry for the long post just trying to give you guys full picture, any advice/guidance would be much appreciated.

 

Many thanks.

[FabiaGonzales]

6 hours ago, EdHru said:

Hi all hope you are keeping well and safe at these strange times.

 

I wonder if someone could kindly shed some light on the issue that my Fabia mk3 (Manual, 1.2tsi 110bhp) has manifested two days ago. The car is 17 plate with 16k on the clock. Due to the current situation the car is not in regular use, even before this, I was not using it that much as I am working from home and would probably cover apx 40miles per week (20min journey each way twice a week when in the office on a A road, so normal speed 55mph).

 

For the last 4 weeks car has moved maybe 3-4 times to the shop (5 miles round trip) to town driving below 30mph. Neighbour has given me a CTEK 3.8 charger to maintain my battery for a bit, trickle charged it for just over a week, and then this strange issue appeared. So, after this charge I decided to go to the shop, disconnected it all (but I honestly did not know that the negative clamp should NOT be connected to the negative battery terminal, only found this out last night reading further on the forum, so lesion learned in that respect as my car is start-stop, button ignition, NOT kessy).

 

When I stated the car on the display a message popped up “Start-Stop Error”, and when I moved on then orange ECP light lit up as well. Drove to the shop turned off the car, switched back on no messages of any sort. On the way back, a mile into the journey ECP light lit up and orange engine symbol lit up as well.

 

Scanned it with Carista OBD2, which detected 4 faults:

 

• P003A (Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit).  
• CAN network gateway – 197175 (Manufacturer specific code)
• Central electronics – 233224 (Manufacturer specific code)
• Engine – 16434 (Manufacturer specific code)

 

Neighbour suggested to give it an Italian clean (aka. give it a rag in low gears uphill where we live). I did that took it on an empty road couple of times, high revs etc upto 60mph, needle hitting 6k revs when in lower gear, no limp mode, and the lights never came back on??? Took it yesterday as well for a hard revs/drive to test it, nothing no lights, drives normal. Re-scan with Carista OBD no faults found, ECU scan as well  - no fault codes on any of the components, nothing completely clean.

 

What could cause this:

 

• Could it be that a turbo was sticking (wastegate) which could identified as an over-boost when I was slowing down to turn (foot of gas) due to the lack of car use?

 

• Could a CTEK charger confuse the system hence that Error start-stop msg, as I connected the charger wrongly (negative clamp on negative battery terminal instead of earth point on a car, (thanks to XMANs post on other thread) and cause all this mayhem?). Could that cause it? Is it safe to keep the changer on trickle for longer given the current non-car use situation?

 

I must admit that I am not the fastest driver anyway, never raged the cars, fuel economy fanatic, always change gear below 2k revs, so maybe a turbo needed that clean perhaps?

 

Sorry for the long post just trying to give you guys full picture, any advice/guidance would be much appreciated.

 

Many thanks.

 

The P003A and 16434 codes may be related to carbon build up.

The 16434 is related to the o2 sensors in the exhaust (don't know if it's pre or post cat).

 

A good rag once in a while will keep those at bay.

 

As for the Start-Stop error, i can't imagine it being caused by that, rather it seems related to the 197175 error, which seems to relate to "control unit for battery monitoring", there's a little clip on the -ve terminal, make sure it's fully seated (you can disconnect it by pulling back the grey tab, then pushing it down so the back of it angles down, then the connector should come out easily, be careful though as it's fragile and easily broken if forced). That's the battery monitoring module.

[Ootohere]

So the car needs a fully charged battery and if the lights are staying on the fault codes cleared.

The faults are thrown up with the low battery, disconnected battery etc. 

 

A good rag is not required, just a bit of driving, and the battery kept charged as short runs are not enough.

[FabiaGonzales]

1 minute ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

So the car needs a fully charged battery and if the lights are staying on the fault codes cleared.

The faults are thrown up with the low battery, disconnected battery etc. 

 

A good rag is not required, just a bit of driving, and the battery kept charged as short runs are not enough.

 

Well, something to get the exhaust system nice and hot, too much low load driving when the engine/cat aren't up to temperature will cause carbon buildup. A quick rag, or an extended driving session at decent speeds to maintain some kind of load on the engine will do the job.

[Ootohere]

Each to their own.

Quick rags / Italian Tune Ups are best kept to other peoples car, used sale lots, main dealerships and auction cars.

 

A nice warm up of the oil and then spirited driving is rather different from 'a quick rag',  IMO.

[FabiaGonzales]

32 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

Each to their own.

Quick rags / Italian Tune Ups are best kept to other peoples car, used sale lots, main dealerships and auction cars.

 

A nice warm up of the oil and then spirited driving is rather different from 'a quick rag',  IMO.

What i'd call a "quick rag" is really just a short spout of spirited driving. Got a few nice long straightish bits of tarmac where i can keep in the triple digit speeds almost the entire length. That'll most certainly blow the cobwebs out 😂 (it once blew the cobwebs -and eardrums- out of my ears too, accidentally leant on the window control button at almost 110mph, scared the living daylights out of me with the sudden incredibly loud pressure wubbing noise!)

[EdHru]

@FabiaGonzaleshave you got a photo of "control unit for battery monitoring", so I can have a look on mine and check.

[FabiaGonzales]

13 minutes ago, EdHru said:

@FabiaGonzaleshave you got a photo of "control unit for battery monitoring", so I can have a look on mine and check.

 

I posted a few pictures here, can see the grounding bolt too :D
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/420833-permanent-disabling-of-start-stop-with-vcds-solution/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5251442

[EdHru]

26 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

I posted a few pictures here, can see the grounding bolt too
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/420833-permanent-disabling-of-start-stop-with-vcds-solution/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5251442

Aha, I had that removed as I saw that on your post few months ago. I charged the battery with that removed + conectted negative clamp to the negative terminal on battery, so that could cause my start stop error then? Flipping heck, I could fried my car.

 

As you said the carbon build-up could be due to not using my car frequently, just 3-4 short town journeys over the almost 4 weeks.

 

I feel reluctant in using ctek charger on my car now 😞 . Wife has Golf mk5, should be safer on her car, I think as it's without start stop function, 105bhp 1.9tdi. do I still need to connect negative on the side bolt somewhere else except the negative terminal on the battery. Well confused with this battery charging

Edited 17 April, 2020 by EdHru

[rum4mo]

Well my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS came back from the dealer's workshop after having a warranty repair, and that lead had been left off the battery charge monitor dongle - no lights on and no messages being handed out, I did, after a couple of days notice that "stop start" was not ever kicking in and the weather was warm, I thought - strange, but left it alone, until I checked the fluids a day or two later, only to spot that lead was unplugged, so I plugged it back in and "stop start" starting kicking in again.

 

Charging a car with a low current smart charger by connecting it across the battery terminals - I'd seriously doubt if that would do much harm, what you should not do is to jump start it by connecting across the battery as the engine will be running and not truly checking the true charging.

 

I'd always in the future, connect any smart charger between the battery positive post and car body, preferably the body bonding point near the battery negative post.

 

Finally, I'd doubt if using that CTEK charger has had an adverse effect on your car and would certainly have brought the battery charge level up to an acceptable level if left on long enough.

Edited 18 April, 2020 by rum4mo
"notice" was missing, so added to correct.

[JoePeddos]

I have a MK3 tsi 90 since new (April 2015) I had a similar problem the EPC and Engine block both lit up yellow turned out the turbo was sticking (wastegate actuator) the garage ended up taking out the turbo and cleaning the unit. Its been OK for the last few months. Its the only real problem I have had sofar Joe

[EdHru]

22 minutes ago, JoePeddos said:

I have a MK3 tsi 90 since new (April 2015) I had a similar problem the EPC and Engine block both lit up yellow turned out the turbo was sticking (wastegate actuator) the garage ended up taking out the turbo and cleaning the unit. Its been OK for the last few months. Its the only real problem I have had sofar Joe

 

Do you use your car a lot, those lights also came up on mine plus start/stop error. Since I gave it a harder run on the bypass, no lights came back. Just hope that turbo issue doesn't come back. Not sure if this could be related with non regular car use over the last few weeks or the fault is manifested itself now?

[FabiaGonzales]

10 minutes ago, EdHru said:

 

Do you use your car a lot, those lights also came up on mine plus start/stop error. Since I gave it a harder run on the bypass, no lights came back. Just hope that turbo issue doesn't come back. Not sure if this could be related with non regular car use over the last few weeks or the fault is manifested itself now?

Short distance, infrequent journeys will increase the likelihood of something like that getting stuck. Nothing gets up to temperature so deposits build up.

 

I've done 63-64,000 miles on my 1.2TSi 90, and ive never had that light come up once, though thats probably because i do a fair amount of motorway driving, and any B road driving is usually of the spirited variety

 

As for the charging and start/stop error, when the connector is disconnected, the ecu does log a code that it can't connect to the battery managment control module, but it's a silent internal code, i wonder if the other error popping up brought it up.

 

You won't damage anything by charging it directly on the posts when the car is off, though it will confuse the car if you do it whilst it's running. That said, if you've got the connector unplugged, it doesn't matter anyway, as the ecu wont know whats going in or out of the battery and the whole system reverts to the old basic charging method where the alternator just continually charges the battery at a flat rate until it's full (rather than the new fancy ways of reducing charging under acceleration to increase fuel efficiency, and mega charging on overrun (where the wheels drive the engine) to recoup a little of the energy thatd otherwise be lost as heat from braking).

[JoePeddos]

Hi EdHru i have not had the other problems you seem to have had. Would agree with FabiaGonzales post. Joe

 

[EdHru]

14 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

Short distance, infrequent journeys will increase the likelihood of something like that getting stuck. Nothing gets up to temperature so deposits build up.

 

I've done 63-64,000 miles on my 1.2TSi 90, and ive never had that light come up once, though thats probably because i do a fair amount of motorway driving, and any B road driving is usually of the spirited variety

 

As for the charging and start/stop error, when the connector is disconnected, the ecu does log a code that it can't connect to the battery managment control module, but it's a silent internal code, i wonder if the other error popping up brought it up.

 

You won't damage anything by charging it directly on the posts when the car is off, though it will confuse the car if you do it whilst it's running. That said, if you've got the connector unplugged, it doesn't matter anyway, as the ecu wont know whats going in or out of the battery and the whole system reverts to the old basic charging method where the alternator just continually charges the battery at a flat rate until it's full (rather than the new fancy ways of reducing charging under acceleration to increase fuel efficiency, and mega charging on overrun (where the wheels drive the engine) to recoup a little of the energy thatd otherwise be lost as heat from braking).

 

@FabiaGonzales Many thanks for your input. i must admit i always drive as Miss Daisy is at the back, hahha. Can i please have some tips on your spirited variety drive  .  What do you mean in the above, in bold, apologies i am bit confused, do you mean with positive clamp on positive terminal and negative clamp of the charger on negative terminal, or do i clip negative clamp onto that bolt. Of course i would unplug the changer before i start the car. I have plugged the connector back onto the battery, i will just use the button to switch off start stop coming on for now, as this errors gave me a concern to be honest.

 

Many thanks for your valuable input its really appreciated a lot.

 

 

[FabiaGonzales]

2 hours ago, EdHru said:

Can i please have some tips on your spirited variety drive

 

Once the coolant and oil are both up to temperature. Just drive with the pedal buried in the carpet till you reach the speed limit, unless you have access to some private tarmac, then go ahead.

Shift 1st-2nd at 6000, 2nd-3rd about 5500 rpm, and keep in 3rd till about 85mph (5500 rpm again), then 4th till ~110mph (not sure what rpm that is off hand), and then 5th after that. If you're going uphill, then stay in 4th, as you probably won't reach much more than 110 and the higher rpm will get all the exhaust components nice and toasty.

 

It's also a good idea to test the limits of traction and acceleration, how hard you can brake before the brakes lock up (locking up is bad), how hard you can steer at certain speeds before it skids (skidding is also bad), and how quickly you can get up to speed when you inevitably have to pull out in a smaller than desirable gap in busy traffic (then you know when a gap is just too small to risk trying).

I recently just tested braking and steering with my new disks/pads and wheels/tyres (went from 16 inch with avons, to 17 inch with dunlop sport maxx), and it stops haaaaard, i gave myself ~100 yards to stop from 70mph, stopped in about half that from what i could tell, maybe less (wasn't exactly a scientific test haha), and i didn't even lock the brakes up. It's also really hard to get these tyres to understeer if it's dry on the roads!

 

3 hours ago, EdHru said:

do you mean with positive clamp on positive terminal and negative clamp of the charger on negative terminal, or do i clip negative clamp onto that bolt.

 

I think you mentioned on one of the two threads that you have the battery management control module disconnected from the -ve terminal. If it is disconnected, it really doesn't matter where you connect the charger. If it's plugged in, i'd recommend connecting the -ve charger wire to the chassis ground bolt.

 

On a side note, as it seems to be getting a little warmer outside, it's definitely worth checking and setting tyre pressures. I generally do it once a month anyway.

[EdHru]

21 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Once the coolant and oil are both up to temperature. Just drive with the pedal buried in the carpet till you reach the speed limit, unless you have access to some private tarmac, then go ahead.

Shift 1st-2nd at 6000, 2nd-3rd about 5500 rpm, and keep in 3rd till about 85mph (5500 rpm again), then 4th till ~110mph (not sure what rpm that is off hand), and then 5th after that. If you're going uphill, then stay in 4th, as you probably won't reach much more than 110 and the higher rpm will get all the exhaust components nice and toasty.

 

It's also a good idea to test the limits of traction and acceleration, how hard you can brake before the brakes lock up (locking up is bad), how hard you can steer at certain speeds before it skids (skidding is also bad), and how quickly you can get up to speed when you inevitably have to pull out in a smaller than desirable gap in busy traffic (then you know when a gap is just too small to risk trying).

I recently just tested braking and steering with my new disks/pads and wheels/tyres (went from 16 inch with avons, to 17 inch with dunlop sport maxx), and it stops haaaaard, i gave myself ~100 yards to stop from 70mph, stopped in about half that from what i could tell, maybe less (wasn't exactly a scientific test haha), and i didn't even lock the brakes up. It's also really hard to get these tyres to understeer if it's dry on the roads!

 

 

I think you mentioned on one of the two threads that you have the battery management control module disconnected from the -ve terminal. If it is disconnected, it really doesn't matter where you connect the charger. If it's plugged in, i'd recommend connecting the -ve charger wire to the chassis ground bolt.

 

On a side note, as it seems to be getting a little warmer outside, it's definitely worth checking and setting tyre pressures. I generally do it once a month anyway.

 

Flipping heck, I will need to find a disused runway to test my car proper, hahahaha. 

 

I have connected the module back in now, as it was disconnected during the charge, and that error msg poped up. 

 

To be honest I really thought that all this was caused by the charger. But like you said it appears that they're separate issues. Start stop error due to the module being disconnected, and turbo issue due to MD not using the car for a while and driving like Miss Daisy.

 

Is there a need for battery charging often?

[FabiaGonzales]

27 minutes ago, EdHru said:

Is there a need for battery charging often?

 

Honestly, probably not. I recently did a round trip to london, i got back and parked up and ended up not driving for over 3 weeks. When i did though, ignition on, no messages about battery, pressed the button to start, and it fired up near instantly.

 

The battery in my car is getting on towards 5 years old (It's a Moll EFB type battery), and at its last service in january it was still kicking out more than it's rated amps in the tests they did, 655/640 SAE, 334/320 DIN.

[nihtila]

Wow, this is quite a match. I've got a 65 plate mk3 Fabia with 25k. A few days ago EPC light came on, along with start-stop error. I don't have error code reader, but today my partner took the car to (independent) garage. On the way also engine light came on. The car seems to behave normally otherwise. We've driven a few small rounds since the light show and EPC does come on every time; didn't dare to go on bypass or so not knowing what's the problem.

 

So the car is at the garage as we speak. They just called, saying about turbo issue. Said it seems to work so they don't know if it's a sensor or other milder issue, or something worse, and that would be up to us if we want to fix it (so not pushing too much). We're waiting for more information but they guestimated the fix is replacing the turbo and cost in the £1400 ballpark.

 

As mentioned here as well, my driving style is also very fuel economical with low revs. And also we use the car very little; did only 3k miles in the year we've had it now. And recently even a lot less due to lockdown.

 

So I will definitely need to try these tricks mentioned here before giving a green light for a new turbo. Even if it doesn't help, could still try to find another opinion if there are cheaper ways than replacing the whole unit. I just don't know much about car tech so cannot argue much.

 

Btw, the garage said start-stop error comes with EPC light and doesn't necessary tell anything about fault in the start-stop system, just that it is disabled. Not sure this is true? We did have a battery issue in the car a few months ago, and indeed that didn't cause the error but just a symbol that start-stop was disabled. Battery was replaced back then and it has been fine since.

[FabiaGonzales]

5 minutes ago, nihtila said:

Wow, this is quite a match. I've got a 65 plate mk3 Fabia with 25k. A few days ago EPC light came on, along with start-stop error. I don't have error code reader, but today my partner took the car to (independent) garage. On the way also engine light came on. The car seems to behave normally otherwise. We've driven a few small rounds since the light show and EPC does come on every time; didn't dare to go on bypass or so not knowing what's the problem.

 

So the car is at the garage as we speak. They just called, saying about turbo issue. Said it seems to work so they don't know if it's a sensor or other milder issue, or something worse, and that would be up to us if we want to fix it (so not pushing too much). We're waiting for more information but they guestimated the fix is replacing the turbo and cost in the £1400 ballpark.

 

As mentioned here as well, my driving style is also very fuel economical with low revs. And also we use the car very little; did only 3k miles in the year we've had it now. And recently even a lot less due to lockdown.

 

So I will definitely need to try these tricks mentioned here before giving a green light for a new turbo. Even if it doesn't help, could still try to find another opinion if there are cheaper ways than replacing the whole unit. I just don't know much about car tech so cannot argue much.

 

Btw, the garage said start-stop error comes with EPC light and doesn't necessary tell anything about fault in the start-stop system, just that it is disabled. Not sure this is true? We did have a battery issue in the car a few months ago, and indeed that didn't cause the error but just a symbol that start-stop was disabled. Battery was replaced back then and it has been fine since.

 

I have first hand experience with two similar turbos, the first was pulled from a car with 14k miles, the second had 46k miles, both vehicles of a similar age (2016 ish).

You'd expect that the 46k turbo would have more carbon buildup, but rather the opposite was true, the 14k turbo was heavily "coked" up, the wastegate was stiff and there was a fair bit of side to side play in the shaft.

The 46k turbo however, was almost perfectly clear of any carbon, some white heat marking on parts in the direct flow of the exhaust gasses (turbine, wastegate etc), and the wastegate was smooth in operation with only very minor play in the shaft.

This was down to difference in driving style and usage, with only 14k miles in 4 years clearly that car never really went far, probably rarely got fully up to temperature and sat for extended periods. The 46k mile one was a slightly younger (66 vs 16 plate) but had clearly driven much more and harder in its shorter life.

 

Modern cars run rich on cold start in order to get the catalytic converter up to temp fast and keep emissions down, but this does have a side effect of coking up the exhaust side of the turbo if it's only used on short trips where the engine never really gets fully up to temperature, and never gets any significant amount of wide open throttle usage.

The other issue with it coking up is that because the wastegate is internal to the exhaust housing of the turbo, the carbon buildup can seize the wastegate shut, especially if the car is never driven hard enough for it to open, that's what causes the codes and may cause it to go into limp mode, where it'll have low power, and won't really pull beyond 2500-3000 rpm, also while in limp mode start-stop is non-functional.

 

1 hour ago, nihtila said:

Even if it doesn't help, could still try to find another opinion if there are cheaper ways than replacing the whole unit.

 

If it does come down to it, i do still have the original turbo from my 1.2 (i put a turbo from a 1.4 onto mine, for more power than just a standard remap), pair that along with a gasket set (£30 ish) and couple hours of labour to fit it (cost dependant on garage), it's a much cheaper option than £1400 from the dealer! It's possible to do yourself, but i'd not recommend it unless you're really wanting to save even more money or you have decent experience with mechanical repairs, i did manage it myself but it took a fair bit longer than i expected.

[EdHru]

Just to update my original post. The issue never returned after some spirited driving soon after the event occurred (lucky i am a key worker so i was able to be out and about on the quiet roads). After i cleared the fault codes with Carista, they never came back (touch wood). I have also got some Hydra Petrol Power Blast fuel additive, just to try it, as i have been using supermarket petrol, cant comment on its effectiveness, but it adds some detergents to the cheaper fuel. So definitely try this before you authorise a turbo change. Your issues and driving style is 100% identical to mine, however i have altered mine now, obviously within the limits of the law, accelerating that bit harder now, and taking the car for a bit longer drive over the by-pass to warm the engine properly if the car is not being used that often.

 

Hope this and and the advice from other member as per the above helps, please do let us know how it goes with your car.

    

[nihtila]

So nothing was done at garage at this point, they just cleared the codes - but lights came back immediately. Haven't been driving much but went twice for an evening ride using higher revs etc. All seems to be working normally.

I just got VCDS today. All this is new to me so don't really understand much.. Read the codes and the engine code (there was also a fault in HVAC and CAN) is indeed the same as yours, 16434 - Charge pressure control actuator. I guess I will clear the codes and go for a ride and see if they come back. If yes, try repeating some spirited driving and try again, and hope they would eventually stay off. If not.. I don't know yet..

 

In case someone understands more, and for archiving, here is what it reads:

 

1 Fault Found:
16434 - Charge Pressure Control Actuator 
          P334B 00 [237] - Mechanical Malfunction
          MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
         Freeze Frame:
                Fault Status: 00000001
                Fault Priority: 2
                Fault Frequency: 3
                Mileage: 40348 km
                Date: 2020.07.02
                Time: 09:16:04
                Engine speed: 996.00 /min
                Normed load value: 52.9 %
                Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                Coolant temperature: 61 °C
                Intake air temperature: 22 °C
                Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
                Voltage terminal 30: 11.520 V
                Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
                Charge pressure actuator: specified position: 140.00 %
                Bypass valve f high press turboch turbine inlet: actual value: 94.98 %
                Charge pressure actuator: adaptation for lower stop: 2912.8 mV
                Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0
                Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0
                Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 0
                Bypass valve for high press turbocharger turbine inlet: status-Bits 0-7: 55
                Bypass valve for high press turboch turbine inlet: uncond volt: 2749.6 mV
                Charge air pressure: actual value: 975.78 hPa

 

[nihtila]

1 hour ago, nihtila said:

Read the codes and the engine code (there was also a fault in HVAC and CAN) is indeed the same as yours, 16434 - Charge pressure control actuator.

 

Or is this number just referring to where the fault is, and code is P334B? In which case it is different.

[EdHru]

Guess what, the flipping this is back again. Honestly, i have jinx it with my response from the other day, hahha. Last few weeks only did short town driving and didnt use the car that much (cycled to work as it was nice weather). Erlier went to the shop and start/stop error came on and then yellow ECP light. Cleared the fault with Carista (P003A (Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control "A" Position Exceeded Learning Limit). as soon as i moved a bit it came back on. Took the car for some 20 mile spirited drive, ECP light remained depite being cleared few times. Could not acheive high revs (into the red zone rev counter dial) at all, car felt slugish achieving higher speeds (it went to 60mph), but slugishly. There was no limp mode at any time. Called by my local VW Indy. He also scanned it to have a look and it indicated wastegate acuttor thingy, he trided to move it and it was sticking, he managed it to get it moving with pliers and then it was moving via OBD. Cleared the fault and i tried to drive it i again the light came back. Car was left with them to have a closer look.

 

Could this be carbon related problem again? Flipping heck very disapinting with my car to be honest. @FabiaGonzaleswhat do you recon?

[FabiaGonzales]

30 minutes ago, EdHru said:

Guess what, the flipping this is back again. Honestly, i have jinx it with my response from the other day, hahha. Last few weeks only did short town driving and didnt use the car that much (cycled to work as it was nice weather). Erlier went to the shop and start/stop error came on and then yellow ECP light. Cleared the fault with Carista (P003A (Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control "A" Position Exceeded Learning Limit). as soon as i moved a bit it came back on. Took the car for some 20 mile spirited drive, ECP light remained depite being cleared few times. Could not acheive high revs (into the red zone rev counter dial) at all, car felt slugish achieving higher speeds (it went to 60mph), but slugishly. There was no limp mode at any time. Called by my local VW Indy. He also scanned it to have a look and it indicated wastegate acuttor thingy, he trided to move it and it was sticking, he managed it to get it moving with pliers and then it was moving via OBD. Cleared the fault and i tried to drive it i again the light came back. Car was left with them to have a closer look.

 

Could this be carbon related problem again? Flipping heck very disapinting with my car to be honest. @FabiaGonzaleswhat do you recon?

 

The limp mode is weird on the Fabia, it has pretty good power till about 3000 rpm then it tails off into nothingness past then but it's not rev limited like others (i deliberately put it in limp mode by disconnecting the wastegate connector).

 

It's possible that there's rust and/or carbon built up to the point where it's gotten really solid and isn't recoverable, in which case a new (second hand) turbo would probably be more time and cost effective than rebuilding the actuator and de-carboning the turbo etc.

 

For a last ditch effort to get it freed up, get some GT-85 up into the mechanism and the hole where it goes into the exhaust housing? (ive put 2 pictures below of where i mean) I'm not sure how much WD-40 would do there vs GT-85, but it might help free it up at least. GT-85 is a few quid at Halfords if you don't have any, and you can use it on just about anything.

It's not easy to reach as it's all down the back of the engine, but it is doable, it's underneath the heatshield at the back of the engine, don't do it while hot, you should be able to reach over behind the heat shield and feel where you need to spray the GT-85 (or whatever you decide to use).

 

To try get it moving, the shaft of the actuator should pull towards the left, and *should* return back closed under its own tension. It's not the easiest to move even when it is nice and free, since it's geared so the little servo/motor or whatever it is in the actuator mechanism is able to hold back however many psi of backpressure there is against the wastegate.

 

On a side note, the turbo pictured below is available - should anyone want a carbon free turbo with 65k miles on it, drop me a pm (from a EA211 1.2TSI).